The Huntsman - 1949 Convertible Restoration

[Caddy Wizard]

Hey Art, it could be, I will try getting a good side view posted soon and see what you think. I remember the body guy was having a tough time getting the hood to fit, and it could definitely be off.

With a convertible especially, the sequence of panel alignments should go something like this:

1. Align doors to door opening (after all items are added to car -- the frame flexes some as parts are installed).  If the shape of the opening doesn't quite fit the shape of the door, the body can be flexed more open or more closed by shimming the body mounts at the frame.

2.  Once the doors are finally set in position, the front fenders can be aligned to the front of the doors for an even gap.

3.  Next, the hood can be aligned to the front fenders and the cowl for even gaps.


Front of the fenders and hood can be raised and lowered by shims at the attachment of the radiator core support to the frame.

The "bow" of the front fenders can be made more bulbous or more flat by shimming under the rear top mount of the fenders and raising and lowering the bottom  mount at the rear of the front fenders.  So for example, if the fender is too flat relative to the shape of the door, one can loosen the bottom fender mounting and lift up on the fender and then tighten the bracket.  That action bows the fender out more.  Flattening the fender some is done with an opposite adjustment.

[CadillacGlasses]

Art - That is interesting that the frame flexes as parts are added - so, question, this would mean I should plan for a panel realignment after all components - such as windows, latches, interior panels - are all installed?

This would make sense, as the door fitment seemed solid a year ago while we were painting, but less so now.

Also, that is very interesting how you can control the curvature of the panels.. this gives me much hope to be able to make tweaks. I found something similar while trying to get the grille in place, which required some forcing of the fender fronts.

[CadillacGlasses]

Realized I should post some pics of the recent progress, I'm hoping that I can share more of the steps between where I left off and where I am now.. but its been a challenge to remember to post in the middle of the hustle (another project has also been taking a decent amount of my focus)

Anyways.

I got the car out about two weeks ago to try testing the heat, as well as the speedometer and gauges I attempted to install.

Needless to say, it didn't go very smoothly, overheating and the only gauge I can get working is the battery. One of my challenges is that I've converted to 12v (a vestige of a past lifetime, and one day I may convert back to 6v once I have the car in one piece and I'm at a 'tinkering stage'). Because of this, the gauges have to be stepped down with resistors. The temp gauge is the wackiest, and I'm thinking of swapping the sensor for a 12v sensor for a 54 cad, unless the threading is different...

Since these photos, I've purged the engine of rust and changed out the water pump (third party, which also was a regret, and I'm planning to send my original to caddydaddy eventually for an OEM rebuilt one. Again, something I'll come back to later.) I also rebuilt the carburetor, that was an interesting adventure, never done that before and required a few phone-a-friend moments to get it to work again.

Note - my main goal right now is getting this driveable again so I can get it to the interior shop.

Once I got my water pump sorted out... the brakes went soft, and now i'm pending a rear wheel cylinder replacement once I have some available afternoons. For now, while I'm stuck at my computer, I can distractedly ponder what I've done and will do next...

[Caddy Wizard]

I have converted 6v cadillacs to 12v and kept 6v cadillacs 6v.  The latter option is best, in my experience.


You need to get a proper rubber line to go from the main metal fuel line to the inlet side of the fuel pump, to allow the engine vibration and movement (as the engine revs) to be accommodated by the rubber line without cracking over time.  McVeys sells the correct one that fits perfectly.

[CadillacGlasses]

Good catch Art, thanks for pointing that out, I'll add that adjustment to the list

[CadillacGlasses]

I've been busy with another side project so this has been quite paused. However, Interior shop is about ready to take it for upholstery - which is exciting, but now I need to be ready!

Rear seat - The original rear seat was lost to history, so I'm having to make my own... I've got a seat base from a 49 Coupe DeVille that I was able to shorten side to side, and then I dug out a generic seat back from a 63 Cadillac (a junk yard find, the only one that had no arm rest). Today I test fit them and realized I'll need to shorten the back.

I'm not entirely sure how these will bolt down - the attachment points look different than what is afforded on the car.

Current measurements are approx. 24in tall, 17.5in deep, thinking I can take 2 inches out of the rear structure of the back. I can't tell if the seat base is high enough, but the originals look like they sit really low too.

[David King (kz78hy)]

When I was looking for a rear seat for my 55 Eldorado, I found this source which makes new ones.  It was about what it cost me for rusty OE ones.  Site is in Swedish, so email them to ensure you get what you want.  They have both lower and back and will sell a set or individually.  I believe they have sewn trim as well.

https://www.uswebbutik.se/product/resarstomme-1951-sitt-rygg-bak-convertible-cadillac-kopia

[CadillacGlasses]

Oh Awesome, thanks David - I've reached out to see what they have. To my knowledge, a 1950 should be the same size. Fingers crossed!

-Mike

[dogbergs]

I would try  jmurrayent@aol.com Reno, Nevada.

[jaxops]

Looking good.  Very impressive work! 

[CadillacGlasses]

Exciting update - my seat frame from Sweden came in! It looks great. One small challenge with the width of the spring pack. I will have the interior guys tweak that, but I'm glad it's here. Thanks David for the lead!

Next is the top frame rebuild. I've got my machinist friends at LaVine Restoration's doing fantastic work redoing them in Stainless Steel. We decided plating would take too long and they wanted the challenge.

Over the next two weeks I'm hustling to get it together and ready to send back to interior. Fingers crossed all of life aligns to this goal

[CadillacGlasses]

I took the car on a short adventure — with the goal of getting gas at the nearby gas station - we had a bit of a meltdown, which I think turned out to be vapor lock, or the fuel pump starting to die...

Essentially the car started stalling out once it got up to full temp - which I read between 160-180 at various parts of the block (my temp gauge still doesn't work, so I'm using a laser meter)

The gar finally gave up the ghost at a busy intersection and had to be towed home, and after inspecting it with a friend on a video call, we found a few things - radiator hose was sweating coolant, fuel pump is pulsing and there's a missing vacuum line on the carb. (Going to rebuild/replace the pump, hose and find out what carb line I'm missing)

This leads me to my question - does anyone know what this port leads to? I assume it's this vacuum line...

https://www.inlinetube.com/products/cae4801

Thanks

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

That port goes to the heat source for the Automatic Choke.

Not sure where it is on your car, but I would be looking at the Exhaust Manifold, or the crossover port in the Intake Manifold, under the Carby.

This is not going to be your engine-stalling problem, unless the Choke is fully closed, thereby creating a really rich mixture.

Bruce.

[James Landi]

If your fuel pump is mounted on the oil fill above the crank case, be advised that the fulcrum on the pivot pin usually begins to wear for lack of lubrication... resulting in  a weak pump that's very hard to diagnose. (old timers used to pack the pump casing with grease!) Also, ANY pin hole in the metal pick up tube inside the gas tank or a very minor leak in the gas line to the pump will interrupt the vacuum and thus the flow of gas to the carburetor.   Tracking down minor flaws that create major engine stalls can be frustrating, so purchasing a fuel pressure gauge to diagnose fuel delivery pressure to the carburetor  may well be a good investment of time and money.Hope this helps, James

[CadillacGlasses]

Thanks James and Bruce, those are good recommendations - I like the idea of getting a fuel pressure gauge to see what might be going on in there while testing.

Correct me if I'm wrong but that heat line probably just needs a flared hydro line bent so that it can go to the manifold? Seems doable.

I've ordered a replacement pump, considering this one came with the car and is of unknown origins. Reduces variables at least...

https://www.caddydaddy.com/1949-cadillac-fuel-pump-with-glass-bowl-rebuilt-free-shipping-in-the-usa.html

[David King (kz78hy)]

You could rebuild your own.

https://www.then-now-auto.com/product/cadillac-fuel-pump-kit-fpa-184-1949-1951/

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Mike,

That tube is nothing really special.   There is no pressure involved, just a heat source to operate the bi-metallic spring in the choke housing to open it up when the engine warms up.

There shouldn't be any exhaust gases going up the tube, just heat.

Bruce.

[CadillacGlasses]

Ok awesome, that sounds really simple then, could be a rubber hose.

Thanks David, that's a good price on a rebuild kit

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Ok awesome, that sounds really simple then, could be a rubber hose. 

Definitely not.  Has to be a steel piece.  Like a piece of 1/4" brake piping.  It gets hot.  Which is what it is designed to do, as exhaust gas passes by it  It is this heat that opens the Choke.

Here are some pictures of one I knew I had.   This is a Rochester 2BBL, and the tube has a single flare, and this one goes down into the Intake Manifold of a SBC.   It has been through the wars, but still works.

Bruce.

[CadillacGlasses]

Oh, thanks for clarifying Bruce, that makes way more sense. I'll do this then!