I've seen in a few instances when a 1956 Caddy was up for sale, when it came to the photos under the hood the owner had an electric fan installed on the front of the radiator. I read that it was to keep the engine from overheating when driving slow or moving in slow traffic on the road. Does anyone here know how the fan is attached to the radiator? Doesn't look like there's anywhere to screw it onto.
Typically, they have plastic 'fasteners' that zip tie thru the fins of the radiator.
I live in a desert climate and first I would exchange a 'street' version of a modern 'flex fan' in place of the steel OEM fan.
Note: the "race" (not "street") versions are too aggressive and can be noisy.
They provide significantly more air flow at idle and slower speeds. I anticipate this should alleviate any fan issues.
Quote from: 1956biarritzI've seen in a few instances when a 1956 Caddy was up for sale, when it came to the photos under the hood the owner had an electric fan installed on the front of the radiator. I read that it was to keep the engine from overheating when driving slow or moving in slow traffic on the road. Does anyone here know how the fan is attached to the radiator? Doesn't look like there's anywhere to screw it onto.
I would start with a heavy duty radiator, usually an
upgrade to 4 rows of coolant tubes. Use a fan baffle.
On my 62 I converted from vertical to cross flow +
overflow tank, also added a 7 blade fan with thermal
clutch. It needed a spacer, that car never overheated.
Think about your temp gauge and fan control modes.
Electric fans can help in idling or shutdown situations,
but I would never consider zip tying them direct to
the radiator core. A little welding with the MIG
can create custom mount brackets. good luck,
Bruce Roe
I own a '56 Cadillac and everything under the hood is OEM rebuilt. Engine & cleaned out water galleys, water pump rebuilt, new hoses, belts, rad cap, rad flushed at a rad shop, new thermostat, new coolant. I also have a rare OEM 6 bladed fan on my car. It was a secret warranty offered only to owners of '56s (that were AC equipped), who complained of overheating. With everything in tip top shape, and using a mechanical heat gauge, the running temperature is fine. 56 Cads can run hot but I have proven to myself that if all is in good running order they can be tamed. The 6 bladed fan probably does help as well. The MPL doesn't list that part for '56, but almost certain the 6 bladed fan for '57, and (certain) for '58, as well as perhaps other years, will fit. They probably help a lot. I have been in real scorchers with stop and go traffic, but car tuned properly and all cooling equipment is in tip top shape, so if memory serves, nothing over 205 F in worst case scenario. Usually runs 180 - 200 F. If it were me I would try and keep it original and work with what you got. It can be made to run properly. My car is a factory stretched Limo, so heavier, and all still OK. Clay/Lexi
I would forget about using an electric fan. Use some foam tape to seal around the radiator to the support. This will increase the air flow through the radiator and reduce the amount of air flowing around it. If your car does not have a fan shroud and the radiator and cooling system are in good condition, I would install a fan shroud.
One thing to think about. When the electric fans are not on, they are blocking air flow through the radiator. Also, the plastic retainers usually loosen which damages the fins or tubes.
I go with bcroe and Lexi. A good 4 row radiator with more fins. The greater the number of fins, the more efficent the radiator. The fins are what transfers the heat. A really good radiator shop can build you a 4 row radiator that fits in stock radiator frame.
Just some observations and thoughts form a really "old duffer".
An "old duffer", LOL. Have not heard that term in years. Yes, if still concerned a rad shop can increase the efficiency of the rad as discussed. I have also seen a Caddy Reproductions (vendor) rubber sealing strip repop sold on the net that is advertised for Cadillacs of this vintage. Said to have originally been stapled to the underside of the hood, so when it closes, air flow is better channeled to the rad as this strip seals the closed hood to the rad support. Without reseaarching it, not sure if originally was on '56 Caddies but I recall seeing the tell tale staples (rubber since rotted away) indicating that my car may have originally had one. Does anyone know what years of 1950s Caddies had these? Another item to consider when tuning up your cooling system, especially if the intention is to keep it original. Attached is an image of the repop. Clay/Lexi
Well I guess I am the odd man because I ditched my stock fan and have been running electric for years now. I installed my single 16" fan on the "inside" of the radiator, no shroud, no nothing, just fan on radiator. The fan uses plastic pins you push through the fins and they have a retainer on the other side. If you want to remove them, you have to cut them off - they don't loosen. The fan is activated by a push-through style thermostat that goes through the radiator fins. Wiring was simple, uses a relay to reduce electrical load and of course fused. The fan moves A LOT of air when it turns on. I DID NOT do this due to overheating - my car has never had problems overheating thankfully. I did this because it was a cheaper and simple way to "modernize" the cooling system, as well as taking stress off the water pump. Most importantly is that my car is not all original and minor modifications such as this, or the whole-car LED light conversion so I can see what the heck I'm doing in the dark, did not really impact me. Had my car been all original, I would be typing a different message.
I use 2 electric fans on my 73 Chevy C20 crewcab, but only by necessity. It is my tow vehicle for race car trailer and travel trailer. Never had a heating issue, but had to use them after I removed the gas engine and installed a 636 cu.in. 3208 Cat diesel. There was not room between water pump pulley and the radiator. I used metal brackets to mount the fans so I would not have to worry about the plastic pins from damaging my very expensive custom made radiator. This was because of the many pin damagedd radiators I had seen and heard about. These vehicles were either daily drivers or used for heavy pulling with lots of miles a year. For a vehicle with only occasional use, you may be OK. My fans use a thermocouple installed in the coolant and are wired directly to a 12V power source through a relay so they can run with the ign off. They draw a lot of current and can completely discharge the battery, so I installed a separate battery for the fans, so they can run as long as needed and the truck will still start.
Just be aware that if you install electric fans that run after you shut off the engine, to cool the engine down, you may have a dead battery the next time you try to start it.
That is a good point, I failed to mention that I am not using the original generator but converted to an alternator, so I do not know how it would do with the gen. The fan is wired with "switched" +12V so it only runs when the key is on and the coolant temp has triggered the thermostat. I didn't see a need to have it run while the engine was off and no coolant was flowing. I find that the fan will only run while the car has been sitting idle for some time, it stays off while I am underway or have brief stops.
If you are using the plastic pins to retain the fans to the radiator, check them often. If you can grab the fans and move them up and down, you need to try to tighten them or they will damage the radiator. Been there and done that. that's why I made brackets to hold the fans in my '73 crewcab to prevent damaging the AC condenser.
I'm not sure how far these pins have come along, but mine have pads that go between the fan and radiator, and the retainer and radiator on the other side. The pins also incorporate a spring so there is constant tension on the fan and retainer so it won't work itself loose while still soaking up whatever vibration there may be. If one is using anything other than that, then I'd worried about it. The hardest thing for me to do was make room between the fins so as not to break them while routing the pins through.
However, as you stated brackets are better but the best and correct way to install fan(s) would be to use a shroud. Other than that, I think we've covered all the ways that these fans install on old radiators for the OP. ;D
Yes, they just become another maintenance item on the car that must be perodically checked.
Don,
I've had a twin "flex-a-lite" fan in front of my radiator (1955CDV) for over 20yrs now with their automatic temp sensor (adjustable) and installed it mainly for A/C purposes. The stock radiator works magnificent but occasionally the electric fans will come on during hot days and traffic in Tulsa.Years ago I had changed my A/C refrigerant to R135 (I now have R12 back it) and I had hoped the fans would aid my A/C cooling. Bottom line: my flex-a-lite fans work in hot weather and automatically do what they should!....walt..tulsa,ok
Quote from: Lexi on March 08, 2023, 10:46:02 AMAn "old duffer", LOL. Have not heard that term in years. Yes, if still concerned a rad shop can increase the efficiency of the rad as discussed. I have also seen a Caddy Reproductions (vendor) rubber sealing strip repop sold on the net that is advertised for Cadillacs of this vintage. Said to have originally been stapled to the underside of the hood, so when it closes, air flow is better channeled to the rad as this strip seals the closed hood to the rad support. Without reseaarching it, not sure if originally was on '56 Caddies but I recall seeing the tell tale staples (rubber since rotted away) indicating that my car may have originally had one. Does anyone know what years of 1950s Caddies had these? Another item to consider when tuning up your cooling system, especially if the intention is to keep it original. Attached is an image of the repop. Clay/Lexi
Yes, this rubber baffle is correct on a 56 and it essentially seals to the top of the radiator top tank. It helps make sure that the air entering the grille goes through the radiator, instead of around it. It makes a difference. Also, there is a sheet metal baffle that does the same thing between the radiator core support and the front of the radiator upper tank.
Art as always, thank you. Clay/Lexi
Quote from: Caddy Wizard on March 14, 2023, 09:31:56 AMYes, this rubber baffle is correct on a 56 and it essentially seals to the top of the radiator top tank. It helps make sure that the air entering the grille goes through the radiator, instead of around it. It makes a difference. Also, there is a sheet metal baffle that does the same thing between the radiator core support and the front of the radiator upper tank.
Do you have pictures of the rubber mounted under the hood?
I have to go with Art and Lexi on this one.
My 56 Fleetwood overheated for years. I'd be at a stop light watching the temp gauge go up. Although my heat wraps, Seafoam in the gas tank all helped, it turned out to be a really good tuneup by someone who knew how to do that to these cars. Bruce Warren (Bruce Warren Auto Repair in Nofolk, VA) took a week and reset the carburetor, and then (without using the Thoro-Check book but completed all of the steps by heart) re-tuned the car adjusting the carburetor, points, throttle, all of which took time. Once he got it, I just have to maintain it. It was like a complex ballet to get everything working in sync. I thought I knew what I was doing but not in that level of detail.
I credit him and that kind of knowledge to keeping my cars on the road! I'm still learning!
Still searching for pictures how the rubber Part will look installed.... have the piece here but under the hood are no holes for the clamps or something.... would be great if someone have pictures of the installed part
I don't have pictures of how the rubber baffle strip is installed. But I can describe it fairly well. If you look at the underside of the 54-56 hood, you will see a wide panel that spans from side to side, starting at the nose. At the back of the panel, there is a flange that turns up toward the underside of the hood. If you crane your neck under the hood and look at the back side of the flange, you will see staple holes every so often all the way across the flange. The rubber baffle strip was simply stapled on the back side of this flange. You can do the same thing. Pull out the old staples and take a strip of tape or paper and trace over the holes with the edge of a pencil or a piece of chalk to record the exact location and orientation of the staple holes. Then transfer the hole locations to the new rubber strip by pushing new SS staples through the paper/tape template and through the rubber. Then push the staples (you might take a tiny drill bit and open up the size of the holes slightly) into the holes in the flange and bend them over with a pair of pliers. Tedious, but very doable.
Quote from: Caddy Wizard on April 06, 2023, 02:26:32 PMI don't have pictures of how the rubber baffle strip is installed. But I can describe it fairly well. If you look at the underside of the 54-56 hood, you will see a wide panel that spans from side to side, starting at the nose. At the back of the panel, there is a flange that turns up toward the underside of the hood. If you crane your neck under the hood and look at the back side of the flange, you will see staple holes every so often all the way across the flange. The rubber baffle strip was simply stapled on the back side of this flange. You can do the same thing. Pull out the old staples and take a strip of tape or paper and trace over the holes with the edge of a pencil or a piece of chalk to record the exact location and orientation of the staple holes. Then transfer the hole locations to the new rubber strip by pushing new SS staples through the paper/tape template and through the rubber. Then push the staples (you might take a tiny drill bit and open up the size of the holes slightly) into the holes in the flange and bend them over with a pair of pliers. Tedious, but very doable.
Under my hood there are no holes... I have the part here but don't know how to install it... maybe the 54 didn't have this rubber Part???
Quote from: Nickl on April 06, 2023, 02:35:41 PMUnder my hood there are no holes... I have the part here but don't know how to install it... maybe the 54 didn't have this rubber Part???
I know for sure that the 56 models have this. Pretty sure 55 also. 54, I am not positive. I don't have a 54 at home, but I do have a 55 and a 56. I'll try to take pictures of those and post, maybe tomorrow...