1960 engine removal

[60eldo]

So I got the 6 bolts out from the eng and trans , and the 4 nuts off the flywheel, whats the best way to split the eng from the trans? Something is holding them together, the car is up on ramps.

[Moody]

Put a jack under the transmission to relieve some stress. At the same time lift the motor an equal amount and it should split apart. May have to shake it some.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

As a side note, don't lose the disc that is in the rear end of the crankshaft after pulling the transmission off.

You will need it when time comes to put it all back.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

So I got the 6 bolts out from the eng and trans , and the 4 nuts off the flywheel, whats the best way to split the eng from the trans? Something is holding them together, the car is up on ramps.

Don't know the '60 very well, but I wonder if there are dowl pegs (guides) holding the bell housing to the engine block? David's suggestion should separate them. Clay/Lexi

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

I take it that the Starter Motor is out?

Bruce.

[60eldo]

Starter motor is out and I got them loose. Question, when I go to put the motor back in, how do I line everything back up? The flex plate, the dowels in trans. Any help wood be great

[Clewisiii]

Dowels in trans first. You have some wiggle room with the flex plate. I had to replace those nuts on the flex plate. Every one of mine were stripped.

And don't forget that spacer. You may need to use a smear of grease to hold it in place when installing the motor.

[Moody]

Starter motor is out and I got them loose. Question, when I go to put the motor back in, how do I line everything back up? The flex plate, the dowels in trans. Any help wood be great

That's where finesse comes in. Just put it close and wiggle it in place. The pins will keep it in alignment.

[59-in-pieces]

Jon,

As Clewisii reminds - replace the spacer.
Here are a couple of pics to help.

Have fun,
Steve B.

[Dr. John T. Welch]

Members on this forum have much experience and offer good advice for engine removal and installation.
Accomplishing this with the vehicle on ramps requires special attention to detail when installing the engine.I assume you are leaving the transmission in the vehicle, removing the engine separately and will install it with the transmission still in the vehicle.

The first thing to remember is that with the vehicle on ramps the engine/trans combo is on a slight slant. Aligning the engine, transmission converter housing, converter pilot and the converter attaching fasteners to the flexplate simultaneously is a major task under this condition. Here is my preferred method for accomplishing it:

1.) Obtain two bolts the same diameter and thread size as the converter housing-to-block attaching bolts but 1 1/2"-1 3/4" longer.  Cut the hex heads off and grind the ends to a blunt radius taper.

2.) Thread these bolts into the block, one on each side widely spaced.

3.) Attach the flexplate and its flat steel converter spacer to the crankshaft.

4.) Remove the front engine mounts from the block if you have already installed them.

5.) Place a jack under the transmission to support and lift it slightly.

6.) Raise the engine and lower it carefully into the chassis using the two pilot bolts in the rear of the block to align with their respective holes in the transmission converter housing. The pilot bolts are very visible and  align everything  more easily than wrestling with the short stubby  dowels to join components together. At this point you just slide everything together with the pilot bolts guiding the assembly path.  If necessary, slightly  adjust the position of the transmission with the jack for better alignment and easier travel on the pilot bolts. This is much easier than wrestling  the suspended engine.

7.)Attach the front mounts to the block after you have secured the engine to the transmission then  lower the engine/transmission to place in the chassis.

8.) Remove the two pilot bolts and replace them with the last two converter housing bolts then  tighten everything to spec.

The pilot bolts make the whole process a safe and easy one man job with the transmission in the vehicle. . Without them, aligning everything can be very frustrating considering the slight tilt of the whole assembly because of the ramps.

Good luck and be safe with your project.

John         

[60eldo]

Thanks so much guys. The engine is out. Now 1st things 1st. Im getting it rebuilt and Id like to ask the guy some questions, but I dont no what to ask him. Ive never done this before. For instanse, Ok Im paying him so much, what am I getting for that price. Is he replacing everything inside or just whats needed. What should I be asking the builder?

[Clewisiii]

I paid $4600 for my rebuild. That was all machining and all parts replacement.

Ask if they are replacing or planning to reuse CAM.

The rockers would just be cleaned or reconditioned.

You can ask if they are planning to do any type of break in. I wanted the machine shop to do the breakin on my engine but I realized how many parts they would need and I did not think I wanted them to do it.

My machine shop charged me $500 for reassembly. But they did it wrong. They did not install my dip stick tube. I had to pull the pan to do that. They installed bolts in the wrong spots. One headbolt they put washers under it to make up for it being in the wrong place.

[James Landi]

John,

As Carl mentions above, with hundreds of parts in play, it's easy for someone who's not as committed as you are to make  mistakes.  I've had a couple of engines rebuilt, and I won't bore you with details, both were flawed, neither of the shops provided any substantial support, so finding a shop that will unequivocallly guarantee a rebuild that runs smoothly, has good oil pressure, good compression, does not leak coolant or oil, and makes no odd mechanical noises would be MY bottom "line."  If you stipulate specific parts, in my judgement, you're asking for trouble. I liked Carl's suggestion regarding having the shop provide the break-in AT THE SHOP with you and someone you trust who's knowledgeable to check the entire finished product out before you take it home, even if it costs you hundreds of dollars more.  I'd also attempt to hold back some cash that provides you with some leverage if they screw up. I hate to sound so cautionary, but finding a really great shop that will guarantee a reasonable end product is hard to find.  So many folks develop habits of not taking responsibility and finding excuses for taking one's money.  Hope this help you along the way, James

[Clewisiii]

I did want the machine shop to do breakin. But going over the list. I would need to provide.

Distributor ready to use.
Carburator ready to use.
Power steering pump in order to put a belt on to run the fan for the engine. Pump cannot run dry so I would need a bypass. Starter engages the trans not motor so the shop would need some sort of adapter and starter set up.