Is there a source that supplies a new TX Valve for my 1957.
OR is there anything I can do with my old one?
Ken
Ken,
Do you know for a fact that yours is bad? What was it doing?
Greg Surfas
Greg,
Thanks for the reply.
I have no idea if it is working or not.
I have done just about everything mechanical to the car except I think I was napping when we covered the air conditioning phase of my trade, many years ago. I am now suffering because of it.
I will lay out what I am up to and hopefully it won't be too long winded.
I got the car ready for my Son's formal but had done nothing about the air conditioning except I purchased a complete second hand unit which I had in my shed for more than a year.
The condenser and receiver dryer were quite rusty looking so I got replacements from the States.
I pulled the evaporator to bits and the aluminium part looked good. The TX Valve also looked good with no leaking evident. Photo included.
The hoses needed to be changed and our aircon expert here, the only one we have, could not change them without changing the fittings. Another photo.
I could not get a rebuild kit for the compressor so a different one appears to be the go and that meant an alteration in the bracket set up. Yet another photo. I have altered the bracket without modifying the original by adding to it. I am not concerned about originality under the bonnet (hood) but did not want to destroy the original brackets either but needed the air conditioning to work well. We live in a hot country. No ice or snow where I come from.
The aircon guy wants to take the hot valve out of the system and fit a thermostat.
I appear to be committed to the changes to get cold air. We have to use R134A.
So Greg, getting back to the TX Valve. What do you think about using it as is or can I pull it to bits and clean or check anything.
Ken
I was able to get a new TXV for my 59 Fleetwood from Old Air products in Texas. About $65 or so plus shipping. That was this past summer.
The hot gas valve and compressor were missing from my car when I got, back in the pre-internet days. What I did ( also on the advice of an A/C mechanic) was to cut off/close off the hot gas pipe at the evap (tig welded shut) and install a Thermostat. I used an A6 compressor modified to fit the original brackets. The system works well, and did just fine in the heat of the Arizona Desert. ( I was in Yuma.) I was using R12 until this last summer and will be switching over to 134 when I finish the A/C this spring. (Disconnected the A/C while doing an engine rebuild, haven't reinstalled the compressor yet)
T Lewis
G'day Ken,
It sounds like you are at the mercy of your AC guy and his "wishes". IF this were mine I would reinstall all the components, install a new dryer of course, evacuate the system, charge it with refrigerant, and see if it works.
There are of course no limits to the modifications that could be made and still have a semi functioning system, however, if you have all the components it would be worth a try and use them.
What you loose when you eliminate the Hot Gas Bypass on your system is Humidity control. When using a thermostat to cycle the compressor and the compressor turns off, any moisture on the evaporator coil will re-evaporate into the airstream and into the car.
IF you are in a dry part of OZ then there should be little problem, but again, If this were mine I would try re installing the factory system the way it was designed and see what works.
All of that with the understanding that all components have been thoroughly cleaned internally.
Cheers
Greg
Thanks Leroy,
I went back and looked at my post and I forgot to mention that the entire system should be flushed out with the flushing agent typically available at an AC Supply house (wholesaler) before any attempt to use the components. In regards to the correct oil to use, I have been successful sticking to Ester oil, because of its lubrication performance and it doersn't seem as Hygroscopic (collects water) as PAG. Either is correct with R-134a if "installed" correctly in the correct amounts.
Greg
After having some expensive issues with some of the systems I worked on recently I found out that most techs that are not working in a dealer warranty environment use ester oil. It seems to be pretty universal and apparently even mixes (or at least co exists) reasonably well with the other oils. PAG and mineral oil (the typical r-12 stuff) apparently turn into some sort of corrosive goo when they mix. With the PAG oils the weight is apparently also critical but try to find out which is which.... You would think they would stamp it on the compressors. Since I switched to ester I have had zero issues with AC systems, even the ones that I sort of just threw together with used parts.