The ignition key that came with my 56 coupe doesnt work in that lock cylinder so I need to change it out. It has one little hole I tried jamming a pin into but nothing happens no matter how hard I try. How do I get that out so I can replace it with a new one and keys? Thanks
I don't know that model specifically but usually there is a specific position the lock needs to be in and that is when you put the pin in the hole. At that point the key and cylinder should just pull out.
Yeah poking around the internet for other models that seems to be the case. Unfortunately the ignition key it came with is wrong. Lock is right but iggy is wrong. So I guess the whole thing will have to come out.
To get the lock out , using the pin hole, it is necessary to have the correct key to turn the lock into the correct position.
Check the Glove Box to see if the key fits that, and if it does, then the Ignition Lock is not original and may need to be removed with the electric drill, and then the whole thing will need replacing, but that is your last resort.
If the key looks worn, then getting the key code from the Glove Box lock will allow a Locksmith to cut you a new key, to bring it back to size, which might allow it to operate the Ignition.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks....I'll see what I can do and will update tomorrow.
Ive been starting it with a screwdriver touching the terminals on the starter haha. Not a driver yet and barely a runner, so its okay for now.
So you also hot-wire the coil ?
I love old cars, especially those without Ignition/Steering Column locks.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on July 06, 2016, 01:02:24 AM
To get the lock out , using the pin hole, it is necessary to have the correct key to turn the lock into the correct position.
Check the Glove Box to see if the key fits that, and if it does, then the Ignition Lock is not original and may need to be removed with the electric drill, and then the whole thing will need replacing, but that is your last resort.
If the key looks worn, then getting the key code from the Glove Box lock will allow a Locksmith to cut you a new key, to bring it back to size, which might allow it to operate the Ignition.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce,
Sorry but some information you gave is incorrect. The glove box & trunk are the same. The ignition & doors are the same. That's why 2 keys.
Rob,
You need to hire an experienced lock smith the pick the lock to get it out. Then pull a door lock & compare them. They need to match. The lock smith can do that. Make sure you address the trunk lock also. That should match the glove box.
HTH, Bob
To get the lock cylinder out, it needs to be in the accessory position. Get a pin or small punch and insert into the hole and press in gently. Turn the lock CCW past accessory and it will pop right out.
When my 67 Camaro got stolen and recovered, the thief had slide hammered the original lock out, and replaced it with his own. When I got the car back my key would not start it. I had to drill the tumblers out with a fair sized bit until the lock would turn. (If you have to do this, be careful how far in you drill so that you do not destroy the ignition switch). Then I followed tha above and got the thief's lock out. I got a new uncoded lock cylinder, then coded it to my key, and installed that. (Reverse of removal procedure to install, but the pin should be unnecessary). Still in there and working fine, 25 years later.
Thanks all,
i got in the trunk and glove no problem, but the other 2 (of the 3 I was given) wont work the ignition any direction.
Depending on the availability And price I might swap out the entire unit - lock cylinder and ignition.
Looks like a correct, non-universal ignition switch is made of unobtanium so I guess I'll be using the original and will need to drill out the lock or hire a locksmith.
I am for sure no expert in that era but I thought usually the whole assembly was held in the dash with a big decorative nut like thing. You just unscrew the nut and the whole assembly comes out the back no key needed. The electrical portion may or may not separate from the lock part. If it does for now you could maybe use something like a screwdriver to turn the switch part till you get the lock dealt with.
At least out of the car it will be easier to deal with.
Know of any car shows near you soon? I don't think there were that many options for keys so a show with a few cars from the era you could get lucky.
Quote from: Bob Hoffmann CLC#96 on July 06, 2016, 09:48:53 PM
Bruce,
Sorry but some information you gave is incorrect. The glove box & trunk are the same. The ignition & doors are the same. That's why 2 keys. Bob
When did GM change to using two different keys? Must have been 1956?
My '55 Buick Special uses one key for all locks.
Bruce. >:D
GM used the 2 keys system for a long time and before 1956. My 1980 Oldsmobile still had that system. Your 1955 Buick may have been modified.
Thanks Roger,
From what I have discovered, the Buick appears to be totally original, but one never knows what happened in the rears past.
The car was purchased virtually from a Deceased Estate in New Jersey, back in 2008.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce,
As I sold recently all my inventory of shop manuals, owner's manuals and catalogs, I cannot check anymore if Buick had one or 2 different keys for 1955. I doubt that Buick did differently than the other GM makes and, as you said, unless all repairs are documented, it's hard to tell if somebody performed a modification just for the one-key comfort.
My 50 cad uses 2 keys
What year did they switch the doors to the trunk key? 71?
So an update here. Of the 3 keys I got, 1 aftermarket one works the trunk and glove box. The other 2 GM keys are useless as they dont work the doors or ignition.
I got the starter switch removed entirely, that sucker was wired in tight!
Some pics:
Man Ive called 3 locksmiths and not one of them wants to touch it. They claim they dont work on stuff this old. This lock seems to be as simple as it gets!!!
One guy said he'd take a look at it but has to come to me and itd be $75. I dont think so! ::)
Check around for an older locksmith place, one thats been around a while, not a newer place
and like a lot of mechanics now, they plug into machine and tells them what to do.
And the advice of taking handle off should be able to get you the numbers you need.
Guys..
Some GM cars had ONE key, and some had TWO keys. When they had one key it fit everything. When they had two keys, one key operated the door locks & ignition while the other key operated the glove box & trunk. SOME glove box locks were missing part of the tumblers so you can't make a truck key from them. Been there done that in LOTS of rodeos. Making WAGS & comparing apples & oranges does not answer the question.
Bob
VICTORYYYYY!!!!!!!!!
Tons of drilling and 1 bent punch later
Good job, hard part done.
What i was saying is that like mine, the ignition is the same key as the door handle, so getting info from door handle would work.
My glove is the same as the trunk key
I have 2 keys.
Ive never removed a door handle yet on one of these old cads.
Im assuming you need to pull the door card, unscrew the latch mechanism and from there with a special tool pop the handle off to access the lock cylinder?
I have the replacement locks, and they are new. shoot me an email with your cars info and your zip code for a shipping quote.
Pm sent thanks
I only have the new ignition locks for 57 and up.
We are restoring a 1953 cadillac coupe Deville and we can't find the keys. I ordered a new cylinder but read comments that you need the key to change it. Is there a way to change it without the key. Locksmith can't do anything I already checked that out.
In the past i also had several customers cars with missing keys. Without the proper key it's impossible to set the ingnition lock in the richt position, enter a small rod in the hole and push in the pin inside the lock. Several of you mentioned drilling out the lock. I do it the other way by removing the switch part in the housing. At the back of the housing the switch is held in place by three small tabs witch you can bent back with a small screwdriver. After bending back the tabs the switch backplate with te spring and contact ring will come out. Now you can remove the lock by grinding away the tab that holds the lock cylinder in place with a dremel like grinding tool. Doing so you can avoid damaging the switch housing by drilling to far into the lock cylinder. This way also gives you the opportunity to examine the contacts of the switch if they are burned or melted away ( i had one car in my shop who started for itself without turning the key because the contact were heavily burnt) After repair the tabs on the housing can be bent back to secure the backplate again.this works on all cars prior to late 60s. New keys or locks can be obtained through Thomas-J-Sestac who has an Ebay page, Douglas Vogel dvogelauto@aol.com or Jesser's classic keys.
Hope this helps.
Sincerely,
Matern Harmsel
CLC 15331