The 1968 Ignition Switch problem

[metalblessing]

What was said before is absolutely true.  It is much better to have your original carb rebuilt by a trusted rebuilder than swapping in a "rebuilt" unit from one of the commercial houses.  The commercial house will give you a similar carb that might not be exactly the same year and might not have the correct jets and rods.  It will likely work, but it will never work well.  Unfortunately, I learned that lesson the hard way.  Now I rebuild my own carbs.

Yeah, I plan to do this soon actually. First im going to get my fuel filter off this weekend hopefully. I finally located the filter under the power steering pump, a GF440. It has also been suggested to me that after replacing this GF440, I may want to consider buying a more modern filter and add it before the GF440 so I dont have to keep replacing the expensive NOS filter.

At the moment the car has gotten worse and I can barely make it around the block

[DeVille68]

The flaps above the actual secondary blades are there to prevent air moving through the secondaries when the engine does not need it. There is a spring attached to the rod of the flaps that controls the force needed to push the flap open.
If the spring is missing or not correctly set the air rushing through will open up the flaps and you will get too much air in the engine.

It is described in chapter engine fuel section 92, air valve spring wind-up adjustment.

92. Air Valve Spring Wind-Up
Adjustment (Fig. 6-91)
1. Loosen allen socket head lockscrew, Fig.
6-91, and turn adjusting screw counterclockwise
to remove all spring tension.
2. With air valve closed, turn adjusting screw
clockwise 1/2 turn after torsion spring contacts
pin on shaft. Holding adjusting screw in this
position, tighten lockscrew.

[35-709]

Right.  I mentioned that adjustment back in Reply #42 of this thread but did not explain the procedure.  That is a fussy and not easy adjustment to do for the uninitiated, especially with the carb on the car. 

[metalblessing]

Well as a test i bought a $5 Duralast univeral fuel filter at autozone (without the return line) and today i removed the old gf440 (was "gard" brand?).

Well i put on the new filter and this did solve the problem, so it was definitely a clogged filter.

If my air conditioning doesnt work anyway, is it going to cause any problems or vapor locking if i dont use the return line?

Drove to get gas and it ran great, it did stall one time when taking off from a lighr, wouldnt turn over for about 15 seconds, then started up fine.

Not sure if thats related.

[DeVille68]

Sorry, I missed that post while reading.

So, the vapor return was installed because a car with A/C would run a bit hotter especially in slow traffic. Not directly related to the A/C system.

On my car the A/C is removed, but I still have the return line. So far my car never vapor locks while I have seen other Cadillacs of similar years that had problems in the summer.
If you can - I would install the vapor return.

Seems that the transition from idle passage to main venturi does not work correctly. Check the main gasket and check that the throttle blade is not open past the idle passage.

[metalblessing]

Thanks, I will plan to get that worked in somehow