good shampoo, wax and chrome cleaning options for orignal '54 series 62

[Julien Abrahams]

Dear all,
As you might have read in the technical/authenticity section, I am currently in the process of purchasing a completely (interior and exterior wise) '54 series 62 sedan. In short, the car needs TLC. It looks like it has not been properly washed or waxed in several years. For example, the bumpers and hubcaps are a very dark grey now.
Because I read different things online I was wondering if you guys have any recommendations for which shampoo and wax best to use on this thin, single stage original paint. The original paint is Viking Blue which was a metallic paint. My goal is to preserve the paint as best as possible. It is not necessary to give it a show car gloss. It is almost 70 year old paint and the car has been used, and in my view you are allowed to see that. For the chrome I saw some products like California customs aluminum deoxidizer in combination with California customs purple (apparently you just apply the deoxit, the purple, and just basically wipe it off).
Do you any experience with this or can you recommend other products?
I live in the Netherlands, so probably not everything which is available in the States is available here.
Thanks in advance.

Kind regards,

Julien Abrahams.

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

Anything Adams... The quality of their products is amazing, they perform as advertised.
https://adamspolishes.com/

[David Greenburg]

To revitalize the original lacquer paint,  treat it with Meguiars #7, a tried and true formula designed for the old style lacquer. There's a YouTube video put out by Autogeek, as well as discussions on their forum about how to do this.  Basically you coat the car very liberally with No. 7, and let it sit overnight before rubbing it off. Then you can wax with your favorite wax, a topic on which everybody has their own opinion. If you want to go down that rabbit hole, you can find some discussion here, and endless debate on the detailing forums.  Kind of like motor oils, politics or religion.

[35-709]

I read the pitch for the California Customs stuff --- sounds pretty good.

[Julien Abrahams]

Thanks for the replies.
So, I tried to order Meguiars Nr. 7, but that appears more of a challenge than expected. Contacted Meguiars Netherlands, and they don't carry it anymore. They advized me to order via Amazon.com. And yes, Amazon carries it, but for some reason will not ship to the Netherlands....So I tried Autogeek, and they do ship to the Netherlands, but the shipping price is a bit excessive in my view (51 dollars....)
So as a last attempt I sent an e-mail to Meguiars US inquiring whether there is any possibility of ordering the Nr. 7.
Sigh...

[Moody]

I can agree with Meguiars Nr. 7 on paint. It's a bit more work than many other products out there, but worth it. If you want to follow with wax, (I'll give my opinion her) use a pure carnauba wax which will allow the paint to breath. Even old paint needs to breath. The Meguiars Nr. 7 also allows the paint to breath. Many paint breakdowns are from sealing paint to tightly. This would apply especially to lacquer paint. I've painted over a 100 classic cars and have seen what improper care of paint can do. Many of the additives in car products are detrimental in the long run to paint. Additives are usually there to make the products easier to use, or to entice you to buy them.

[Julien Abrahams]

Thanks for the advice on the carnauba wax.
With regard to Meguiars Nr. 7: Meguiars US does not ship to the Netherlands. So they referred me to Meguiars UK. Contacted them by phone, and they asked me to send an e-mail. So, now waiting for their response. A lot of trouble to go through, just to be able to purchase a good product .
In the meantime, can I just wash it and wax it with the carnauba wax? And then for example later this month wash it again, put the nr. 7 on it, and then wax it again? Or does nr. 7 not work anymore if wax has been applied?
Appreciate your response.

[fishnjim]

You do not want to wax over paint that has not been "cleaned" and I don't mean just washed.  Best approach is to work "backward" and start with mild cleaners/abrasives and if they don't work, go to increasingly more aggressive.  Most of the surface is old wax and new accumulation that wont; wash off.  You have to get back to paint.
A phone call to the folks at Autogeek(FLA - USA) might help because they handle a few product lines out of germany, etc.   They've been helpful to me.
I use meguiar's stuff but they have a bad habit of making something good, then discontinuing it and the new stuff isn't as good.   I use Mother's for some things with good success.  I like there "pre-cleaner" but they changed the name, too.   So one has to stay on top of this market and it's huge.  Lots of new comers and outgoers.
Lacquer is applied in layers and if it's not cracked or flaking or blistering, then it can be saved.  There are many "tricks" of the trade but if you're not experienced I'd decline to mention for making things worse.  Is there a detailer shop nearby?   They may be able to help.

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Another vote for the application of Meguiars No 7 and allow to sit overnight to start. Then the paint will need to be compounded with a buffer with wool pad. I recommend Presta Ultra Cutting Creme @ 1400 RPM, followed by a second buffing with Meguiars No 85 Diamond Cut Compound, then a hand application of No 7 again (not overnight) and finally an application of Meguiars Yellow Carnauba wax. If not experienced with a buffer, you might want to leave it to someone who is. 

[dochawk]

also, check out the forum on auto geeks.

staggering amounts of information and advice, some of which will confine you that you're taking a moderate approach, rather than being extreme!

[Moody]

I agree, by all means it must be clean. There are good hand waxes if you don't want to use a buffer.

[Julien Abrahams]

Alright, so I finally got an update on the availability of the Meguiars no 7. In short: I cannot get it in the Netherlands.
So, Meguiars Netherlands advised me the no 205 or the 210, where the 205 has slightly more agressive polishing agents in it than the 205. The paint has some stains in it, that did not come off during the wash.
I will check out the Autogeek website and maybe ask for their advice in order to use the 205 or the 210 (210 is available here). Ofcourse I want to be as gentle as possible on this old paint.

[Jerome506237DX]

Julien, PM sent