News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, which the board has delayed until May 15th to give users who are not CLC members time to sign up for the club, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

Recent posts

#11
Technical / Authenticity / Re: Zinc additives
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:17:49 PM
Here is a thread with a link to a video that came up recently.  Seems logical and makes sense to me.  First time anyone ever seemed to explain anything.  Most of the time its just one of those things that you have to do and no one really seems to know why other than marketing people seem to put a lot of effort into telling people you need to buy their product.

https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/index.php?topic=174935.0

I'm not telling you one way or another, do your own research and make up your own mind how to take care of your equipment.
#12
Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to restore 55 Series 7...
Last post by Lexi - Today at 12:16:18 PM
Very interesting project. I never knew how that backing was made, so I can't help. If it is as you say, you may have to hire a graphic arts place to copy, restore, then print it for application. They can print it on a self adhesive backing. I used this process on another project of mine & the medium the image was printed on was like a clear acetate so it was highly durable. Probably would not need a clear coat. Can't remember size limitations but in my case the image was at least 3 feet long. Enough to easily fit on each side of the clock and finish in one pass on your door side. In 1956 the rear dash background is different and made of what looks like thin striated metal. None of that '50s "star pattern" design in sight :(  Clay/Lexi
#13
General Discussion / Re: 1982 Eldorado Advice
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:10:58 PM
This goes for any 80's 90's and maybe beyond Cadillac.....

Does your climate control/blower work?  If it does you may want to investigate maybe trying to lubricate the blower motor bearings.  That is easier said than done since they were not designed to be re lubricated.  What happens is the bearings start to dry out and cause extra drag which then pulls more power which burns out the blower control module.  Or if you or someone else replaced the blower at some point it may be a one size sort of fits all that also draws too much power and also burns out the module. Just for fun they also put the AC clutch control in the module and just like the blower many of the replacement compressors/clutches also draw too much power and burn up that section of the module. At least that can be bypassed with a relay.   

The modules are not easy to find or cheap if you can find one.  They also are not easy to repair both due to their physical design and being able to source the raw components. So if yours is working now you want to try and keep it working.  I would have to find an 82 manual but there is likely a testing procedure to make sure the blower isn't drawing too much power.  I know I did a 90 not too long ago and that called for installing a temporary power jumper wire with a specific sized fuse and let it run for a specific amount of time.  If the fuse blew you had a problem if not you were good. 

The module is mounted in the heater/ac box near the blower under the hood. Its got like a 6 pin connector on it and a couple wire direct wires.   
#14
General Discussion / Re: 1982 Eldorado Advice
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 11:58:22 AM
These really said to use straight 30?  By the 80's the multi viscosity oils had got much better so you would think they would have wanted a multi except may for the most extreme conditions.

I'm not in the camp of additives or some really special oil but do your own research and decide for yourself.  IF I had a 4100 car I would probably run the same diesel oil I run in everything.  I'm not using the diesel oil because I think its the most amazing thing ever I just have it around for the diesels in my fleet and I think its at least as good as any other option. 

Really any fresh modern fluid is going to be better than something old and dirty.  I would not use any sort of flushing agent in any of the systems.  Fresh fluids have fresh additives including detergents that will slowly clean stuff.  If the new fluids seem to get dirty fast just change them again.  Worst case should take a few change cycles to get most of the crap out.  Using some sort of flush agent may break crap loose all at once and clog things up or quickly attack the corrosion that is holding things together.  If you are going to create a leak you want it to be slow so you have time to notice and make plans to fix it rather than catastrophic all at once.

A fluid extractor can be a handy item to suck out some transmission and power steering fluid.  You don't get it all but over a few cycles you can get a lot of it and some fresh stuff mixed in.  Here is a small one that is only $20.
https://www.northerntool.com/products/ironton-manual-oil-extractor-58085

       
#15
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 dealer installed AC s...
Last post by Lexi - Today at 11:47:14 AM
Quote from: J. Gomez on Today at 08:50:50 AM@Clay, @rick,

FYI

The one I had measured 22"x2" and it seat flush with the inner front support panel lip, the rubber strip is similar to the new masticated rubber material.

HTH


Here is what was advertised by the vendor. Look them up and enquire as to whether they still offer this item. Clay/Lexi
#16
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1976 CdV $13,500 17,000...
Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 10:35:59 AM
  It's a beautiful car, I love the color.
#17
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1965 Cadillac Deville Conv...
Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 10:31:40 AM
 PhantomCaddy,

 Your picture(s) didn't load for some reason. Can you try again?
 
 Rick
#18
Quote from: Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373 on Today at 08:58:15 AMDidn't the actual Factory AC cars have bigger springs up front, and a different rear end to account for the extra weight and drag on the engine?
Thanks

 I would think that it would have heavier springs in the rear, but I don't have any non-AC cars to compare to, other than the 55, and it's a different body style than my 56 coupe.
 I do know that there's an 1/8" shim on top of the right front coil spring because of the weight of the compressor and related hardware.


 Rick
 
#19
For Sale - Cars / 1965 Cadillac Deville Converti...
Last post by PhantomCaddy - Today at 10:17:01 AM
This is one of the prettiest 65 Caddy convertibles you'll ever see.  Finished in peacock Firemist, set off by a beautiful white interior and a new white top with new white boot.  It has matching carpet, caddy mats and a beautiful dash.  It has so many options such as power locks, telescopic steering wheel, power windows, power top, Stereo radio, and AIR!  It rides on new Caddy wire wheels and white wall radials. 1 thing to mention is that the windshield is cracked, you can see it in the dash pic. It spent most of its life out West.  The pictures tell the story.

Location - Ohio
#20
Vibration is virtually gone now.  I still might experiment with some shimming to try and get it perfect. 

This has been.....fun.