News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

Recent posts

#1
Quote from: winger888 on April 30, 2024, 01:37:49 AMHi Mika, just look for Bosch or Hella. Sorry for responding so late. Had the Eldorado out for a wonderful trip to Tuscany/Italy

To make it clear again because of other comments: replacing sealed beams lamps by halogen lamps does draw more amps and may result in malfunctioning including fires.
We are talking LED bulbs not lamps. The appearance is like the original build. 


Ok, thanks Peter :)

Mika
#2
The rear extention is specific to 1956. Other years have a shorter tail extension. To use a more recent transmission would require the replacement of the extension and drive shaft. To do the exchange, the drive shaft/drums/clutches must be removed from the transmission's front. Quite a job!
#3
Newsletters / May Issue of The Standard (Wes...
Last post by Butalla - Today at 12:33:30 AM
Enjoy
#4
General Discussion / Re: Good video explaining zinc...
Last post by TJ Hopland - Today at 12:32:36 AM
I assume multi valve means you can get the desired increased flow with a less aggressive ramp and lift not to mention a lighter mass thats easier to move quickly?   So why the just modest performance engines don't need rollers?

It does look like some of the bucket style units may have a hydraulic aspect to them but it sort of looks like those are the minority and I don't see anything that looks hydraulic on the roller ones so it would seem like a majority of modern engines don't have any sort of hydraulic component to the 'lifter' component.

Did anyone catch the bit about that they changed the type of zinc too?
#5
Roller lifters allow for a much more aggressive cam ramp and longer actual full flow (past the open valve).
Things that are necessary when you are trying to wring 350 Hp out of a 2 litre 4 cylinder motor.
Greg Surfas
#6
Technical / Authenticity / 1956 Eldorado engine and trans...
Last post by CRAIG LEWIS - Yesterday at 11:37:34 PM
I just aquired a 56 Eldo engine and transmission. The engine is complete and on a stand I have not delved into it yet but looks to be in good condition. Still has the original choke heat riser to teed to both carbs with the cloth insulation on it. My question is the transimission that came with it is a  56CE  and looks untouched as well. How can I tell if it was upgraded at all to address the 56 issues. It still uses the 4 sprang attachment to the flex plate on the fluid drive. Is it worth dealing with it or will a later Jetaway such as 59-63 bolt to the 365 without an adaptor? I sm in Phoenix anyone know a reliable shop that knows the 56 transmission?

I have a 51 62 series and I plan to drop the 365 and Jetaway in it.
#7
You also need rollers when the valve spring pressure is very high to stop valve float and bounce at high lift and high revolutions.

Bruce. >:D
#8
When I converted a '69 to RHD, I recall the Cruise Control was there, and as it was heavy, was held in by a couple of screws that went into stands at the back of the dash fascia.

I think these screw heads were 1/4" but don't hold me to that.

Bruce.  >:D
#9
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1953 Eldorado barn find, t...
Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Yesterday at 09:46:18 PM
Sounds like the seller is waiting for the highest price that can be obtained.

Bruce. >:D

PS.   I couldn't open it either.
#10
I should say, it really it isn't so much the sensor as it is the converter circuit. As the transmission ages small internal leaks start to happen. Changing old fluid out for fresh can have the effect of cleaning a bit of gook that was marginally sealing something, which is probably what happened here. So there's probably something internally leaking on the converter apply circuit that prevents it from locking up as designed.

When the torque converter is not locking to the satisfaction of the desired vs observed RPM drop, it sets a code. This is classed as an "emissions" issue because the engine isn't operating as efficiently as it should be, so the check engine light illuminates.

Short of rebuilding the transmission the leak probably isn't going to be found. Provided you don't have emissions testing, the best thing you can do is drive it and take a small mpg penalty. If you do have to contend with emissions, you may have to get creative.

I've wanted one of these for a while, but in my state, a car of this age still has to pass emissions testing. Ironically of the ones that I looked at that didn't have either head gasket or oil leaks, the rest set this code when driven on the highway. Fortunately a friend who had been burned by this issue advised me beforehand and I was able to avoid them.

Good news is the car will probably run forever even with the issue.