I moved comments over here for the '58 restart.

[fishnjim]

Put a new battery on.   Old one was getting weak.
Sorted out the idle problem today.   The fast idle cam had flipped.   The throttle to choke linkage fell off a couple weeks ago after a shakedown drive.   E clip popped.  I must have reinstalled upside down.   Cam must've flipped over but the link fit hole perfect where it was, I didn't question.   In bifocal hell range.   Fat fenders are not bifocal friendly.
Could not get the idle screw to do anything before and that tipped me off that it could be related to linkage off.  There's so much linkage here, can't see well.   Had to adapt and improvise some stuff to get it all working.   Has trans kickdown rod.   I got the 2 jet manual out and re-read the idle section and I knew it was wrong then.  Screw supposed to sit on the #2 cam position.   These are later SBC carbs refurbed for Summit sold as a 3x2 set - cheaper way to go.   So fixed that and was able to adjust idle but still surging.   Had already suspected the timing was off, but had to get a somewhat stable idle to measure.   Sure enough, it was 15-20 deg out.  We clocked the distributor to get around the cap fitment issue.   Factory made a special cap for this, but getting scarcer and really not needed for a driver.   I run pertronix anyway, so no frequent access via the flap door.   I started to adjust and the dist wrench wouldn't fit???   Rebuilder changed to a 1/2" flange nut.   So when it cools down, I'll have to change back to 9/16" for dist wrench or get a different wrench.   The metal tubing I put on the vacuum advance was holding it off, couldn't adjust, so I had to bend it temporarily.  It all got pressure during install, so not unexpected.   Not sure I'm going to run with advance, yet.   We dynoed w/o.  If I can find a happy idle timing, I'll use.   It's only 1-2 deg different(more) that the stock curve, and we're not racing here.   So I got time "close" but not perfect yet.  It's 400 in drive, so I have to test then remeasure in park to do it myself.   
Took for test drive and trans is not up shifting fast enough yet. 
The PS is not working - thank god for large steering wheels...   I don't understand that one yet, it was OK on the stands and bled ok.   After on the ground, the fluid went down and was sucking air, so I suspected it was leaking under pressure.   I topped up and tightened belt and hoses but it's still not functioning.   It's got new hoses on it.   Level's stable now.   Still some smoke on that exhaust manifold, so either not all burnt or maybe another small leak, but even leaking should have enough pressure to operate somewhat.   So the control/bypass valve maybe stuck or something.   Almost impossible to service the steering gear with the new style brake booster and bracket.  Hard to just check oil.  So I'm praying it'll resolve itself.  May have to jack front and re-bleed.   I'll probably change fluid next to remove any debris that may be in there.   It's got a little greyish indicating fines.
But definitely making progress.   Why fix all the problems at once, I won't have anything to work on...except the body work on the other project.   Too hot to weld now.
Minor tweaking is on-going now, and eventually I'll get to to point to decide if it was a successful rebuild.   

[fishnjim]

PS issue was a leak from the gaskets supplied with the rebuild kit that weren't "correct".  Takes two different gaskets, but they save money by using the smaller hole one for the larger hole side.   Fluid was crossing from hole to the screw to the outside.   Gasket material was not appropriate, it was cracking already.
I made a new set out of 1/8" silicone rubber, and testing it for leaks before it goes back on(today).   So far so good.
Also found I put the flow plunger in backward, which explains why it stopped working.  Corrected that.  Not sure how I did that but clearly not as sharp as I used to be, maybe came out under spring pressure and flipped it over* but so long ago now.   Since it was working have to conclude the steering gear is sound and shows no leaks.   So should be solved(soon).   Then I can focus on the tune.
Solved gas leak from fuel pump and fuel bowl - needed tightening.
* - instructions in manual are a bit ambiguous/open to interpretation, but the diagram is clear.   So use both when rebuilding and carefully disassemble.

[fishnjim]

Sorted out the timing today.   Running nice and smooth within a deg of spec.   K. Dorton did a fine job on this motor.
The heater started to leak bad during heat up.   I noticed the coolant was down after first test drive, so not surprised.   So I can't get into that now, it's too hot in garage this time of year except early AM, and who wants to get up early for that, pools open, and have to tear into the front fenders, etc.   I'll put a by-pass U-ey in.  I had the inner off to check vacuum reservoir and replace hoses 5 years ago but went no further.     
It could be the little hose between the ranco, ranco, or a core issue.   I'll have to round up new parts this summer before I decide to tear into that.   It'd be nice to have heat anyway so can drive in winter.    I have a good blowerbut need some ducts.   The floor distributor was on the list to remake already, since I can't find a replacement/repro.   They're cardboard molded so they're all going to be toast, no sense wasting money.
PS is back on, but not getting flow or something, still tight even with weight off.   I think it'll be alright, once it's moving/unstuck again.   No leaks now.   I don't have a hydraulic gauge or fittings to test output.   May have to rangle those, if doesn't self heal.   Old things take more time to get moving.    How well I know that...
By the time I get all the gremlims tamed, I'll have redone the whole car.   Should've just jumped in, but with the other project, no room to have parts laying all over.   So many things, so little time and I'm getting slower by the year.

[fishnjim]

Not bad looking at fifty feet.
Running so good now, it doesn't want to shut off.
I guess I've got a new issue to resolve.
Getting to the point I may have to take down for the final phase.   
Surprising how much aging goes on in the garage after another 4 years; Paint is getting brittle/stained, parts quit working, etc.
Going cruz'n in the AM. 

[BillR. CLC # 29203]

Interesting read.
Thanks  for sharing.
Bill R.
CLC # 29203