Vacuum manifold or valve

[Roger Zimmermann]

Sorry, I forgot you. The last contact I had with Mike Rizzuto was: Mprizzuto at aol.com (replace "at" with @)

Roger

[Walter Youshock]

Try this:

MASTERMIND, Inc.
Michael P. Rizzuto / President
32155 Joshua Drive
Wildomar, California 92595 USA

(951)  674 - 0509
mike@mastermindinc.net

[Coupedeville]

Thanks Walter,

I only checked the index in the rear of the manual and this dosen't mention the vacuum pump. However then applying a little common sense i found it in the engine section of the manual next to the oil pump section.

Re the wiper arm problem, my driver side wiper will not stay on the cam at all. The passenger side works fine.
I got caught in the rain a few weeks ago and the driver side wiper raised up off the cam, twisted 90 degrees and jammed on the corner of the screen. Fortunately i had the foresight to retain the old non cam wipers  (that were on the car when i bought it) in the boot (trunk) so i pulled over and replaced the driver side and continued my journey without further incident. The cam wipers do look better but i just can't get the driver side to work. Very Frustrating considering they were very expensive to purchase and ship to the UK.

Joe

[Kurt Kjelgaard]

Thanks for the Mastermind reference...
Kurt

[rag4rdd]

Ok, i read thru the whole section.  With the engine (newly rebuilt...0 miles) on, I pulled the tube from the vacuum manifold and oil started pumping from it.  My check valve was really messed up, the disk was flipped on its side and separated from the spring (the disk was out of the 4 pronged grooves).  So that is why I had so much smoke blowing when the engine was on. 

So, I'll replace the check valve, but why would there be oil coming thru at this point.  Shouldn't this be sucking all of the time if the check valve is open?  Does this mean that my vacuum pump is bad?  The shop manual is not very helpful.  And the master parts list does not show what it looks like for the 54 cdv.

Is there a kit for rebuilding this pump?  Or do I need to send it out?  I have not found any where on line that offers either one of these options.

Also at idle, what should the intake manifold vacuum pressure be?

And lastly, wouldn't it be easier an easier fix if you put in 'in-line' check valves before the vacuum manifold that is faulty? The rubber flaps are just check valves...yes?

By the way the information that here among the Caddy People is amazing and is appreciated.

[Roger Zimmermann]

If the intake manifold vacuum is greater than the vacuum created by the pump, the oil will be sucked into the manifold if the check valve is not working properly, even with a correct working vacuum manifold.

I believe that the intake manifold vacuum is about 18" at idle.

Roger

[rag4rdd]

I get that part, thanks for intake pressure.

But should there be possitive pressure (oil coming thru) the vacuum pump line if the bottom brass check valve is 'stuck open', as mine was? Shouldn't the vacuum pump be working continuously?

Thanks

[Roger Zimmermann]

Yes, the vacuum pump is working all the time when the engine is running, as it is part of the oil pump. At idle, the rpm are low, the vacuum generated is low, but in the intake manifold the vacuum is high; therefore, it suck the oil when the check valve is not OK.
It seems that you don't know the condition of that pump; you can measure the vacuum at the rubber hose by disconnecting it from the vacuum manifold. Measure the vacuum at idle and with some more RPMs, you should have about 20" of vacuum.

Roger

[cadparts58]

Everyone, excellent information on this subject. Art, the diagrams were exactly like the ones you drew on the bar napkins at the GN. I used EPDM material to make the diaprams. It is a composite roofing membrane that is very flexible and holds up well. It is close to 1/32 inch thick. I traced the outline of an old gasket on it and then laid it on to a piece of soft wood. I used an exacto knife with a new #11 blade in it. If you take your time and turn the piece when cutting, and holding it down with your non cutting hand, after a couple of tries it should come out pretty close to the original. When reassembling, if you really want it to look like factory original, I used 1/8 x 5/8 solid aluminim rivets. I found them at Aircraft Supply in CA. You can Google them for the address and phone number. You can get them in 1/8 pound incriments. Very inexpensive. When I reassembled the halves together I put one rivet in with the round head up and the other rivet in the opposite way temporarily to keep both sides lined up. I used a piece of hardwood as a backing and set the rivet head on it. I took a small ball peen hammer and started peening the first rivet over. When it just starts to hold, I reversed the other rivet and started it. I worked back and forth on the rivets to equalize the squeezing motion. It now looks brand new and as mentioned in a previous post holds vacuum when a gauge is applied. I reinstalled it in the car, wet the windshield, and tried the wipers. Totally different. They work excellent.

[cadparts58]

 Just a correction on the supplier of the rivets. It is Aircraft Spruce and Specialty Co. 877 477 7823

[Caddy Wizard]

Jose,


I have now overhauled both the vacuum manifold on the firewall (making a new gasket) and the brass check valve behind the starter (valve was plugged up with debris).  Both of those seem to be okay now  But I still don't have any vacuum on the vacuum pump line.  I guess I'll have to drop the oil pan and take the vacuum pump apart.  I'll test the vacuum pump pressure one more time before I commit to that effort...


Art Gardner

[J. Gomez]

Jose,


I have now overhauled both the vacuum manifold on the firewall (making a new gasket) and the brass check valve behind the starter (valve was plugged up with debris).  Both of those seem to be okay now  But I still don't have any vacuum on the vacuum pump line.  I guess I'll have to drop the oil pan and take the vacuum pump apart.  I'll test the vacuum pump pressure one more time before I commit to that effort...


Art Gardner

Art,

Ouch, that is a major task in getting to the oil/vacuum pump…! Hope you can get it back in working condition.

Good luck..!

[Kurt Kjelgaard]

On the subject of Trico vacuum washer pump - anybody know where to get a rubber
seal for the lower piston, the one that pulls up the water inside the pump?
Thanks, Kurt

[J. Gomez]

On the subject of Trico vacuum washer pump - anybody know where to get a rubber
seal for the lower piston, the one that pulls up the water inside the pump?
Thanks, Kurt

Kurt,

I recalled McVey’s having the complete rebuilt kit; I can’t find it on their web site you may have to ring them up. There are also Chevy site that list them maybe cheaper but can’t say for sure.

http://www.upconlinestores.com/impala/index.php?route=product/product&path=142&product_id=2965
http://www.classicchevy.com/chevy-windshield-washer-pump-rebuild-kit-trico-1956-1957.html

Good luck..!

[Kurt Kjelgaard]

Excellent, thanks

[rag4rdd]

Thanks for the info on the check valve at the bottome of the engine block.  My original one was shot.......and by the looks are not really designed to be leak proof.  Anyways, I got a new one from McMasters, and now I have zero smoke from the tail pipes.

Speaking as a newbie.......if it seems you have more smoke than you think and;
1) have the original check valve
2) vacuum manifold is faulty
3) vacuum pump is less than optimal
then, the intake manifold could be drawing in small or large amounts (as mine was) oil into the engine and giving you your extra tail pipe smoke.

Thanks again for the help.

[Caddy Wizard]

As a final note on my vacuum wiper troubles with the 56, I tried a few times to re-do the auxiliary vacuum pump and never did get it to work.  I finally gave up and then eventually sold the car.  The pump seemed to be in pretty good condition overall, in keeping with the low mileage of that 56 FW.  But it never developed any good vacuum (as measured in front of the check valve, not after).  That was one of the few problems on the 56 that I never resolved.

Now I have a 54 sedan with the same system.  I haven't checked the vacuum system.  But I do have an NOS vacuum pump that I lucked into on ebay...

[phildeville@cox.net]

Art,

I thought you got some of those replacement rubbers awhile back when I made them for the Cadil-Ikes Chapter?
I still have a few left if anybody needs them.

Phil

[Caddy Wizard]

Yes, I think I have two of them.  They are in my stash of special or high-value parts for the 54.  Once I get the car running again in a week or two, I'll check the wiper system out...

[David King (kz78hy)]

Here is a update on this thread. I have a professionally reproduced part that will solve this problem. If interested, please send me a PM.

David