3d printing basics and what sorts of Cadillac parts are possible

[39Flathead]

I am all for crowdfunding to make this happen. In the Kaiser Club, you can pay into the research fund to get a vote on which part is next do a parts run on- 3D printing makes this even easier. The parts are then sold through the club and the funds go do other parts. The parts are discounted for those that pay yearly part research dues. I don't know if people here are in a position to take on the tasks to support and run, but I am willing to put up money to make the parts we need and keep our cars on the road.
It can all be done without money, but funding would be useful.
- Someone or place with 3D scanner or CMM
- Someone or place with 3D printer
- Someone or place with a metal 3D printer
- Someone or people to do the admin work
- Someone or people to build into our website
- A Jedi Council to oversee Part survey, part measurement and requirement, part improvements, budget, part inventory, part backlog
- Cadillac owners and restorers looking for parts
Charles in Dallas (1957, 1978)

I have a scanner, calipers, access to a CMM. I have 3D printers in around 40 materials up to 4' x 8' in size. I have relationships with all the leading metal printing companies. I also do this professionally so I think I'm fairly well suited to help out on this one.

Does anyone have a good sample part we can start with? The AC ducts looked simple but I'm open to any suggestions.

[79 Eldorado]

I started working on the taillights for the 1979-1985 Eldorados but other projects have taken priority. There's a thread on them on Cadillacforums here:
https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/1979-to-1985-eldorado-tail-light-lenses.1109907/

Phillip aka "BigBird" had a disaster scenario. I made some progress but my model could use some refining and I thought about redesigning the interface between the clear part and the part where the bulbs turn-into ("grey part").

My thought was the grey part would be printed. A master would be made for the clear-red part using 3D printing and finishing. A mold would be made from the master and then the clear part would be poured/molded. There is prism/diamond like material inside but I think I found a source for that. My thought was a piece could be water jet cut and the clear-red part could have geometry to retain it in the proper position.

It would be interesting to hear the thought of others here. The 79-85 Eldorados were the highest selling generation of all of the Eldorados and there is almost no aftermarket support. The taillights are brittle. I was amazed when BigBird finally put his back together. Even broken parts one eBay are expensive.

Scott

[39Flathead]

I started working on the taillights for the 1979-1985 Eldorados but other projects have taken priority. There's a thread on them on Cadillacforums here:
https://www.cadillacforums.com/threads/1979-to-1985-eldorado-tail-light-lenses.1109907/

Phillip aka "BigBird" had a disaster scenario. I made some progress but my model could use some refining and I thought about redesigning the interface between the clear part and the part where the bulbs turn-into ("grey part").

My thought was the grey part would be printed. A master would be made for the clear-red part using 3D printing and finishing. A mold would be made from the master and then the clear part would be poured/molded. There is prism/diamond like material inside but I think I found a source for that. My thought was a piece could be water jet cut and the clear-red part could have geometry to retain it in the proper position.

It would be interesting to hear the thought of others here. The 79-85 Eldorados were the highest selling generation of all of the Eldorados and there is almost no aftermarket support. The taillights are brittle. I was amazed when BigBird finally put his back together. Even broken parts one eBay are expensive.

Scott

Looks great, nice work!

I'd agree. Grey part should be an MJF part in PA12. Clear red is tough, FDM won't work because of how it prints which leaves something like SLA or Polyjet. SLA would probably get too brittle. Best option would be low volume vacuum forming in PC.