I just purchased a 1959 Series 62 Coupe. I had a hell of a time removing the rear tires. Their width caused them to wedge between the brake drum and body side (skirts removed). They are 235x75R 15's. Is this the correct size? I know original bias plys were probably much narrower. I would appreciate it if anyone could help me out and email me at idaholc@aol.com
W.Goodnight
Just an idea and I'm not sure how likely it is, but check to see that the rear shocks are the correct length?
If they are shorter and do not allow the rear end to drop as much as original that would result in your current problem.
You have the correct size Radial (bias ply tires were thinner), do not jack on the diff, jack on the frame as this will lower the Axel. It is also a good idea to jack the opposite wheel hub so it lowers the hub further on the side you are getting the wheel off. Hope this helps.
Don't forget that these vehicles were designed so that the tyres can be removed at the roadside, using the Bumper Bar Jack.
This method lifts the body in the correct angle to make tyre removal easier.
Not sure how the tyres were removed when the vehicle was being serviced on a hoist, during normal "Servicing" procedures back when they were new, but it was done.
Bruce. >:D
You can also let the air out of the tire,this will also help. Ken Perry
But then you have to put the air back in them when you reinstall them.
A bit hard to do on the side of the road.
Bruce. >:D
Ran into the exact same problem a couple years ago. As Grant Owen said do NOT jack the car by the differential or axle otherwise the rear end will not drop sufficiently to provide enough clearance to remove the tire/wheel assy. You must jack from the rear bumper.
Thank you all for your replys. I have jacked on differential and the placed jack stands on frame in front of differential and axle will not drop sufficiently to get the tires off. I am suspicious of the shocks. They are very old and I should replace anyway. How can I insure that I get the proper length shocks? B Goodnight
G'day William,
What you HAVE to do is NOT what you are doing now, unless you are prepared to let the shockers go, so the whole diff drops down.
The only way to remove the wheels is to jack the car up by the bumper bar, on the side that you are removing the wheel from. This method lifts the body in the correct angle to make tyre removal easier.
Nobody as yet has replied to my earlier message as to what they did back in 1959 and 1960 when servicing these vehicles at the dealerships.
Bruce. >:D
William, i would NOT jack the car from the bumper unless you want to damage it, although the original jacks were designed to jack on the bumpers they were useless & unsafe and Often caused damage to the bumpers.
Jack the car from the diff or frame place axle stands under rear frame both sides remove jack from under diff, then jack the opposite wheel to drop the other side further you should note that Radial tires are wider so there isn't as much room to remove the tyre.
DO NOT remove your shocks this way your springs can pop out , if removing shocks always support Axel's with axle stands.
I don't want to cause a war, but when I had my own '60 CDV, I had no problem using the Bumper Bar Jack to raise the vehicle to change a tyre, and never damaged the bumper bar once.
I followed the factory instructions, and using the correct jack attachment, and chocking the front opposite wheel, there was never a problem.
I have had many cars over the years that have used the Bumper Bar Jack as a part of the wheel removal tool, and never damaged any of the bars. My '72 Eldo is also raised in this manner when on the road to attend to a puncture.
Plus, someone out there must know how the back wheels were removed in the workshop when these vehicles came in for servicing.
Bruce. >:D
PS, the best Bumper Bar Jack I ever had, and still have, was the Bumper Bar Jack that came with my Australian delivered 1953 Chevrolet. This was a Lightburn Hydraulic Jack, and the best part of it was when lowering the car, one just turned the raising plunger 90 degrees, and this allowed the jack to instantly lower, with control over the lowering by the movement of the plunger. No havinmg to ratchet is down as in the Cadillac and other bumper jacks.
When these car were new they has Bias ply tires which were thinner than Radials and easier to remove . When these cars went in for servicing at the Cadillac Dealer they were put on post lifters on the frame the axles would drop far enough to get the wheels off.
By Jacking the car & using axle stands on the rear frame & jacking the opposite wheel it will give you enough room to remove the wheel & tire.
As for the factory jacks I just wouldn't want to take the risk even a little rub mark on my Chrome bumpers would ruin my day.
Once by the side of the I40 in the pitch black, middle of the night, deep in the heart of Nashville, I fumbled in the darkness to change my 57 Biarritz rear tyre using the standard jack. (Sounds like the first verse of a classic Country and Western hit don't it.)
A truck went by headlights blazing and I could finally see the twist that it had put on the conv body, so much so, that the ragtop was all floppy on the jack side from the flexing. That was the last time I ever used the factory bumper jack and subsequently discovered how weak the lugs on the rear alum bumpers are. Death just a waiting to happen.
Yes 59s and 60s can be a real pain to get out with radials. I usually put a jack under the change side rear spring, just enough to get the wheel off the ground and then one ahead of the change wheel on the chassis outrigger. . . plus let down the tire. I've even been known to put a third jack on the out rigger under the cowl. I've heard reports of cracked screens on convs.
You can always tell that someone has had a bad day when you see the horrible cresent shaped gouges in their new 3 inch Whitewalls from trying to pry out of the spat opening.
Quote from: Grant Owen on February 17, 2013, 05:14:20 AM
When these car were new they has Bias ply tires which were thinner than Radials and easier to remove . When these cars went in for servicing at the Cadillac Dealer they were put on post lifters on the frame the axles would drop far enough to get the wheels off.
By Jacking the car & using axle stands on the rear frame & jacking the opposite wheel it will give you enough room to remove the wheel & tire.
As for the factory jacks I just wouldn't want to take the risk even a little rub mark on my Chrome bumpers would ruin my day.
Grant: My '59 had biases already when I went to remove the rear wheels. Bias or radial makes no difference: The rear tires can NOT be removed in the manner the OP is attempting- pure and simple. It must be lifted by the frame or bumper in order to allow the rear end assy to drop in order to provide enough clearance for tire removal. Chassis design makes it very difficult to suspend these cars by the frame with ordinary jack stands and I would never recommend it. The potential for serious personal injury and damage in so doing poses far greater risk than that to damage the bumper by using the factory jack or a suitable floor unit. I've used factory jacks for years without ever marring a bumper in the slightest.
Eric, I remove rear wheels & tires on 59 & 60 Cadillacs at least a couple of times a month in the manner I describe it is the easiest way & doesn't take that long supporting the rear frame on both sides with axle stands (decent ones not the type you buy at K mart) is always safe practice.
If you are wanting to use a 50+ year old jack that's up to you , although the bumpers are strong lifting the weight of the car with them does stress them. I am sure many have had the frustration of rechroming their bumpers only to find when they put them on again a bumper end will sit slightly upwards its not the bumper end its the centre section that has been slightly twisted due to jacking & tow hooks.
In this day and age (my age especially ) if i'm at home i simply let some air out and fill er up from the home compressor. If i'm broke down on the side of the road I whip out my triple A card and dial the number.
Randy
Were the 57 bumpers really that weak, Quentin? On the 68, there is a union right where the jack goes and it is quite strong there.
At home I use a shop jack and lift the frame just in front of the rear wheel that I need to change, and I always put a jack stand there as well. As most have noted, you cannot lift by the axle (not axel!) or the rear diff and expect to change the tire.
Once again late to the party.
I have focused on 59's and their restoration - many cars and for many years.
I can only speak to this year and my experience.
Yes, a convertible is the least ridged of all the body styles - very flexible across corners when jacking - keep the doors closed, it helps.
I have found that the factory recommended way to change the rear tires is the most effective.
The body must be up, while the axle must be drug up behind it, until the tire is off the ground.
Maybe a needless point, first loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground, to avoid swaying the car...
I have never experienced any defacing of the bumper chrome, or distortion of the center section of the bumper.
Those who know the 59's, know they have very beefy bumpers and equally heavy duty bumper brackets.
I hope this one man's opinion is helpful.
Steve B.
Quote from: 59-in-pieces on April 16, 2013, 07:04:30 PM
Once again late to the party.
I have focused on 59's and their restoration - many cars and for many years.
I can only speak to this year and my experience.
Yes, a convertible is the least ridged of all the body styles - very flexible across corners when jacking - keep the doors closed, it helps.
I have found that the factory recommended way to change the rear tires is the most effective.
The body must be up, while the axle must be drug up behind it, until the tire is off the ground.
Maybe a needless point, first loosen the lug nuts while the tire is on the ground, to avoid swaying the car...
I have never experienced any defacing of the bumper chrome, or distortion of the center section of the bumper.
Those who know the 59's, know they have very beefy bumpers and equally heavy duty bumper brackets.
I hope this one man's opinion is helpful.
Steve B.
It sure helps. I am just about to get my 59 and I am sure this will come in handy. But I hope that after almost 3 months idaholc has already changed his tires... JK.