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#1
G'day Mika,

I too have found that the reproduction products are not as good as the originals, as if they were, the cars would never have left the production line simply because they couldn't operate successfully.

I have replaced the weatherstrips in my Non-Cadillac rebuild, and have to slam the doors, whereas before, the doors closed nicely, but, I had to replace the parts because they were worn out, split, etc.

When I replaced the door weatherstrips, each time I went to wind the windows down in my '72 Eldorado, the glass would "grab" the rubber, and pull it down into the door.

The only way I could stop this, save completely readjusting the doors was to use a product called Slipicone.   This is a food grade silicone that doesn't leave too much of a residue.  I sprayed the rubber, and during the operation of the glass, wiped off the excess.

When I dissect the original rubber, there is a soft sponge-like rubber inside the slightly thicker, more solid outer layer, allowing the superior compression, whilst allowing for the sliding of the glass.   Reproduction rubber cannot replicate the original compounds/cross-section, even though they can create the actual shape.

They are in it to make money, whereas the factory was in it to sell cars that worked perfectly when they left the production line.

Bruce. >:D
#2
Hello Gentlemen !

I wonder if anybody has had the same issue as I do with the front power windows not
going all the way up because it seems that the A pillar post weather strip is too thick..?
and makes the window path too tight in the end. When I look at the window in all up position
and close the door, I can see the pillar rubber pushing the window outwards, maybe too much
(perhaps 4-7mm, hard to tell while "slamming" the door) because I dodn`t know what`s a normal amount.
I had the power motors renewed by a good reputation classic car garage, and he said
that he cannot adjust the windows to work properly even he has tried everything with it, and actually he was
wondering if the A pillar post weather strip rubber is too thick ?
I trust his experience in adjusting thw windows, at least much more than my own.
Otherwise the windows work just fine with speed and power.
All the weather strips are renewed by the former owner of the car and they are in good shape,
but if they are some reproduction model that are no good..?
If so, where could I get decent/good quality ones with the highest probability ?
With the repair man we agreed to adjust the windows so that they are ok otherwise, but I have to
open the door when pulling the window up the last inches.
Silicon I havent tried yet, but that might not be the right way to solve the issue.

Thanks
Mika
#3
General Discussion / Re: Wiring
Last post by Clifton 77 - Today at 07:08:32 AM
It's the wiring that come on the engine. It runs under the air compressor into the block.
#4
I'm going to say tension isn't tight enough, or...the driven item, IE: water pump, P/S pump, generator is binding more than it should. Remove the belts and manually spin the driven items feeling the amount of effort needed. It is minimal on all of these. They should easily spin a few revolutions after you spin them by hand. Even the generator fully loaded at 35 amps shouldn't make a belt squeal that at the proper tension.
#5
General Discussion / Re: I found some interesting e...
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 11:44:57 PM
Does anyone know what engines Cadillac has been using in recent years?  I sort of tried some searching and could not really figure it out.  I'm assuming this guy has torn some down they just didn't happen to come out of Cadillacs.   I'm just curious if they are using any of the really crazy complex engines.

Watching these videos is making me think the 4100 was a pretty good and simple engine. Simple at least.
#6
General Discussion / Re: Can't log in to access Sel...
Last post by Lexi - Yesterday at 11:40:04 PM
When I rejoined some 8 years ago or so, had been a non-member for a bit before, I was also a member in the mid-70s for one year. The Books said my old number was from a period of a year or so where it was no longer available. No records they said. Clay/Lexi
#7
General Discussion / Re: Wiring
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 11:38:07 PM
The 368 isn't as well known as the 472/500/425 when it comes to swaps but I would expect the holes in the engine block to be the same so you should be able to swap the whole bracket off the 77 engine.

I'm not sure what wire you are talking about related to the air compressor, gonna need some more info on that one.  Is this a wire that car has but the new engine doesn't?  Or the other way around the new engine has something that there isn't a place to plug into your car?
#8
For Sale - Cars / 1932 Fleetwood 355-B - Project...
Last post by Marc A. Thurston - Yesterday at 11:19:42 PM
For sale is a 1932 Fleetwood 355-B - 7 Passenger Cadillac project.  I have restored the engine, transmission front end / rear end, running boards, interior trim wood, steering wheel, and badges.  Sale includes new top, 5 wire wheels, side mount hardware along with other misc items.  The car is located in Fresno California. Asking $31,500.  M Thurston Thurston@asuassociates.com  661-889-6597.
#9
From what I understand, previous Members retained their original Membership Number when they rejoined, but now that Cornerstone has taken over, maybe they were not made aware of this.

Would be nice to retain your old number.   I remember adding that number to your Profile.

Bruce. >:D
#10
For Sale - Parts / 1956 thru 1960 Cadillac transm...
Last post by Doug Scarrow - Yesterday at 09:24:10 PM
Nice condition flywheel bell housing removed from a 1960 Cadillac also correct for late 1956 thru 1959 part number 3632783 no cracks or issues.  $100 plus $30 shipping USA just listed     https://www.ebay.com/itm/266787716272