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1958 coupe deville hydramatic transmission seal up question

Started by 54cruzer, October 25, 2011, 08:10:25 AM

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54cruzer

I pulled my transmission out, because the front seal(s) are leaking pretty bad, mostly at start up, the leak slows after warm up.  I have the trans out, and a front seal kit on the way,  I have studied the manual, and it looks like a pretty straight forward job(although I wouldn't attempt a complete rebuild on it, I know some trans shops can't even get these old hydramatics right).

Does anyone have any tips on this job? I want to get the torque converter sealed up right with that big o-ring, and the other housing seal as well????  We don't have any shops familiar enough with these units here in NE Florida.

thanks,
Kevin

J. Gomez

Kevin,

Since you are only replacing the front seals the process as you described is straight forward. A few tools you may need to get would be a snap ring pliers, a large socket or piece of pipe to drive the flywheel housing seal. If you do not have the seal protector J-6119 you could rig something closer just to protect the seal during installation.

Just take notes, pictures, etc of how everything is lay during the removal so you could put them back the same way. Specially the front bronze, steal and thrust washers to keep the same tolerance as they are now.

Use the manual as a reference but your notes, pictures, etc as the bible once you start the installation, just a personal observation on my side.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

54cruzer

I just finished disassembling the torque converter, and can see where the seal behind it was leaking(I think).  -But I don't see where the original seal was "staked" in place anyway like the manual says?  No nicks that I can see. Does the new one  have to be staked, if it fits tight??  Maybe the new seal is different? I don't see how you could stake the old one anyway, because the lip of the seal is recessed way below the top edge of the case?
Also, I am getting a new rear seal, but the old one was not leaking a drop, would you stick with the old one, since it can be serviced without removing the trans.?  I
think the old one is good one, unlike some of the new stuff.
thanks,
Kevin

J. Gomez

Kevin,

If yours is not “staked” it could well had been replaced before, factory ones were staked. There is no need to take that step when installing the new one.

As for the rear seal, I always say “if it ain’t broke do not fix it/mess with it..!”:)

Changing the rear seal requires the removal of the rear housing and a new gasket will be needed. There is an “O” ring on the rear shaft which slides inside the yoke, this one can be replace if bad/damage, else back to the comment above.

Good luck..!
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

54cruzer

Thanks Jose,
I was refering to the rear outermost output seal, which you can change just by pulling the drive shaft?
I think I will try it without changing it, since it was very dry and I did not damage it...??  I have put new ones in  a lot of chevys and they always seem to seep.

Roger Zimmermann

Quote from: Jose Gomez on October 25, 2011, 01:51:52 PM

There is an “O” ring on the rear shaft which slides inside the yoke, this one can be replace if bad/damage, else back to the comment above.


That "O" ring is only for 1956. The other MY don't have it.
REar seal: if it does not leak, there is no need to replace it.
1956 Sedan de Ville (sold)
1956 Eldorado Biarritz
1957 Eldorado Brougham (sold)
1972 Coupe de Ville
2011 DTS
CLCMRC benefactor #101

J. Gomez

Quote from: Roger Zimmermann on October 26, 2011, 03:02:56 AM
That "O" ring is only for 1956. The other MY don't have it.

I stand corrected..! Thanks Roger for clarifying.
J. Gomez
CLC #23082

54cruzer

Thanks, I got it back together and it seems to work okay, so far no leaks!

I took pictures as suggested, very helpful! The diagram in the manual is a must with all of the washers and shims in that torque converter.  I would also take notes next time.  I wasn't sure about priming the converter, but I did it anyway thru the drain plug.  I used a coil of sheet metal (actually a chrome coil cover) to knock in the seal, there's no way a big socket would work- walls too thick?

I've owned six cars with this transmission, they all seem to have a mind of their own when it comes to shift points, no matter how the TV rod is adjusted(adjustment helps).  It seems to vary with temperature, it could also have something to do with high mileage as well.  Does a freshly rebuilt one act kind of finicky as well?

thanks,
Kevin