1947 rear wheel movement and rear axle play

[dgwalker]

The left rear wheel on my '47 Series 62 has an inboard/outboard movement of about 3/8".  I hear a clunking sound when making a sharp turn at low speed.  The right side has little to no such "play".  I'm thinking that the left rear wheel bearing may have axially moved off of it's seat.  Does that make sense?

I removed the drum and can't get the hub separated from the center shaft.  I've been using a multi-arm puller and a few pound persuader but it hasn't moved yet.  Am I supposed to remove the key first?  How?  Any other step that I'm missing?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Don Walker
17983

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Don,

I would be saying the Axle Race is about to disintegrate.

Plus, I also think you may need a stronger puller than the one you are using.   But, make sure the pullers' legs are fully in contact with the hub before applying the pressure.

The key will not come out on its' own, and the shaft is seated into the hub on a taper.

Plus, your few pound persuader needs increasing by a few more pounds.

But, where are you striking with the persuader?   On the edge of the hub? or on the end of the puller screw?

Bruce.

[dgwalker]

Thanks for the speedy reply.  My puller is supposedly a "7 ton" puller.  I was striking the outer perimeter of the flange with the hammer.  I didn't know if I would damage the bearing or the axle housing if I hit the end of the center shaft.

Otherwise, I my technique sound?

Thank you,

Don Walker

[Dave Shepherd]

The 3 leg puller that bolts to the wheel studs like Mopar drum removal tool is the best tool for what you are doing, more direct pull and stonger connections.

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Hi Don: Your brake drum has separated from the inside stud ring which hold your 5 wheel studs. The brake drum should have looked like the picture below when you took it off. Stop using the puller you now are using as it will distort the inside ring. I would recommend you find a puller like the one below and use it to pull off the stud ring. If you used your puller to pull the drum then it is possible that you could have distorted the drum. I probably would try to find another rear drum for the car. With the stud ring off it will allow you to pull the axle and bearing. The original bearings were New deparure. If you replace the bearing, take axle with bearing and your new bearing to a machine shop and let them press off the old bearing and press on the new. Too many people try to save money by doing it themselves. Using had hand punch usually results in a ding to the seal race on the axle and then you have a leak.    Bill

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day Don,

The only place to strike with the hammer is directly on the end of the puller central "pressing" bar, whilst the full pressure is being applied.

But, you must place the retaining nut back onto the axle to stop everything flying off when it actually "lets go".

Hitting it on the end actually "shocks" the taper joint into separating, as there is a lot of friction there.

This part probably hasn't been apart for many years, and will be tight.

Tapping on the side of the tapered flange will assist, BUT, only if you have a heavier hammer on the opposite side, to act as an anvil.

Too much hitting in the wrong area is a waste of energy, and possible hurt fingers.

Bruce.      

[Paul Phillips]

Don
The bearing is what retains the axle shaft in place, inner race pressed on the axle and outer race captured between the axle housing and brake backing plate.  It is most likely the issue for you.  I would echo Bill's reco on the puller and bearing press, along with Bruce's on 'where to hit'.  Some folks have advocated soaking penetrating oil in the taper as well, though I have not personally needed that.  While you have this apart, it would also be good to change the axle shaft seal - if it has been trying to seal both rotation and axial play, it is likely tired.  A slide hammer type puller and an appropriate drift are what is needed to remove and install the seal.

Unless your car is 163" wheelbase, it will use a common bearing from the era.  Look at your favorite source for bearing type 88128RA, oil seal is a National 450274. Quality parts should run you just over $50/side.  I am personally wary of the Asian imports at lower prices.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[dgwalker]

Gents:

Thanks for all of the suggestions.  I found a correct puller to attach to the wheel studs but it still wouldn't come loose.  I decided to pull the backing plate, hub and bearing as an assembly and take it to someone with a press.

I found that the inner race was not pressed on but loose.  It moves from the inboard to outboard positions shown in the pictures by hand.

I'm concerned that I seem to have a plastic spacer on the axle shaft and outboard of the bearing that isn't shown in the shop manual.  Anyone see something funny here?  I'm not sure what the axle shaft is supposed to look like.  I expected to see a land for the bearing to seat against that isn't there.

Thanks again,

Don Walker

[Bill Ingler #7799]

Hi Don: Glad you found your problem. After you called last night I found a spare axle as I wanted check the bearing number. The picture below shows the surface of the axle where the seal rides. The area is 8/32 outboard from the bearing and the center of that seal rubbing area is 11/32 outboard of the bearing. I checked the bearing number and it is New Departure 88128. I have reason to believe the bearing is original to this axle.  Bill

[dgwalker]

Bill:

Thanks for the additional info.  At lunch break I had the hub and bearing removed from the axle shaft. 

Unfortunately, the shaft journal is worn allowing the inner race to move.  The portion of the hub that was extending through the backing plate looked like a separate spacer (possibly plastic due to the way the paint was rubbed) before it came apart.  It's now clear that it's not a separate spacer but just part of the hub.