1955 battery removal

[alzink]

OK I give up.....how the heck do you remove and original battery from a 1955 cadillac

Many thanks

[Lexi]

Think your '55 was originally equipped with a Delco DC-7 battery, which the modern equivalent is the 3EE size on the battery chart. These batteries are about 19 inches long and some 4.25 inches wide. So they are long and narrow. They are a PITA to revove and replace, if your car is OEM equipped. If that is what is installed in your car, if memory serves; remove the 4 inch wide flexible air duct above the battery to provide more "swing" room, (if still there). If the the battery top cover hold down metal plate is also still there, unbolt it and remove. Disconnect battery straps. You may have to tie back the negative strap to keep it out of the way & also to prevent it from falling down & out of reach below. Very IMPORTANT: Make sure all cell caps are on tight as these are wet cell batteries. Now for the hard part; using both hands tilt the battery upwards at angle somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees, to quickly lift the battery out as you draw it first away from you just prior to lifting. You want to clear it from under the RH fender which stupidly covers part of it. Perform this lifting procedure as quickly as possible as you may experience slight battery acid leakage from the vented caps, even when tightly closed. Yes, these are the batteries from hell. If you have some other arrangement, it would appear not to be OEM. This procedure is for OEM equipped cars. Good luck and ensure to wear gloves in case there is some acid leakage during the removal process. Clay/Lexi

[Cadillac Jack 82]

Remove connections, lift up the right-hand side of the battery, pull out.  Its heavy as all get out but you'll get it out.

[alzink]

thanks to both of you!
Yes it is the original battery style 19 inches long
Looks impossible to remove but now I know the trick!!!!!


Thanks

[V63]

With battery fully disconnected and ready to hoist out... I have securely clamped a large vise grips to the inside battery top post (closest engine) and lift it out using the vice grip as a handle.

[Lexi]

I wonder if an old school battery carrying strap would be safe to use under these circumstances? You know, the kind that grab onto the two posts. Having trouble remembering how the 3EE looks, but assume is the same as the DC-7 original which had the terminals off set, so they were not centered on top of the battery. They were mounted more towards the engine side which might provide better lift when the battery is tilted for removal, (as the load of some 45 lbs would tip in the required direction). Perhaps better balance. Clay/Lexi

[Cadillac Jack 82]

I used a rubber strap once with my 55 but when it slammed down on the valve cover after the hook slipped I opted to do it by hand after.  Sucks but its not too terrible.

[Lexi]

Here is the type of strap I had in mind. Have used this one for almost 50 years and has never slipped. That said, I have never used it pulling one of these 3EEs out on an angle. Always used my hands as well. Probably best to experiment a bit, before trying it out on the car.  Clay/Lexi

[Lexi]

Just as a disclaimer, and also a nod to Tim's warning post, the style of strap that I posted images of in the above post, as well as the "tong" type of battery carriers, are made to carry automotive batteries in a horizontal manner. Not sure how safe they would be when lifting as I described above. Experiment first to test for safety. Don't want to hear that you had a mishap and got battery acid on you or that your car was damaged. I would just use my hands wearing safety gloves. Clay/Lexi

[PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192]

I've always climbed as far as I can into the engine bay, disconnected the terminals, moving the leads as far out of the way as possible, removed the clamp and pulled it out at an angle. It is not a nice or easy job. I've seen cars where people have moved the battery to the trunk to relocate it from this position. I believe 57 and 58s had it located just behind the grill?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Lexie,

In the picture you show of the carrier attached to the battery terminals, I am sorry to point out they are upside down.

Plus, I would never lift any battery with these straps if any angling has to be done.

Bruce.

[Jeff Rosansky CLC #28373]

I put a modern sized battery in mine.... And it was even tough to get in there. It's a few years old now and I have often wondered about getting it out of there.

[Lexi]

Lexie,

In the picture you show of the carrier attached to the battery terminals, I am sorry to point out they are upside down.

Plus, I would never lift any battery with these straps if any angling has to be done.

Bruce.

Bruce this particular strap only fits one way. I agree that it is best to use your hands to remove these batteries and not to use a lifting strap at an angle. Clay/Lexi

[Joe G 12138]

I put a modern sized battery in mine.... And it was even tough to get in there. It's a few years old now and I have often wondered about getting it out of there.

I finally got tired (and sore) of doing that dangerous routine last year on the '55. I am no longer into the judging / points reduction scene, so I went with a non-spillable AGM (51R ?) with half the weight and size, more power and far longer warranty and available through mainstream suppliers. Everything is reversible if me or the next owner wants to.

[Mike Josephic CLC #3877]

Well -- you guys just discussed one of my least favorite
jobs on the 1955.  As several people have stated, it is
not safe to use those battery carriers that grip the battery
terminals for this job.  I don't have the worries about battery acid.  Some years ago I replaced the original type with an exact look-alike reproduction case that has a small AGM type battery inside it.  I'm very pleased with that.  It's worked well.

Even though the replacement is not as heavy as the original, it's still a pain to get it out without damaging something.  What I do instead of lifting it straight out is the following.  After disconnecting the cables, I place a heavy moving pad folded over on the inner fender and another on the top of the front fender. I lift the battery out of its tray and slide it up the inner fender then lift it out near the top with two hands.  Installation is the opposite.  At my age it's just too heavy.
Here's one source I've used (Youngstown, OH):
https://www.jimsbattery-mfg.com/

Mike

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Bruce this particular strap only fits one way. I agree that it is best to use your hands to remove these batteries and not to use a lifting strap at an angle. Clay/Lexi

I agree, but the long metal pieces go on the bottom, and the short metal pieces go on top.   This way, as you lift the strap, the top pieces dig into the side of the battery terminals, stopping the strap from falling off.

Do it the other way, and it would only be luck that stops the carrier from coming loose.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

I agree, but the long metal pieces go on the bottom, and the short metal pieces go on top.   This way, as you lift the strap, the top pieces dig into the side of the battery terminals, stopping the strap from falling off.

Do it the other way, and it would only be luck that stops the carrier from coming loose.

Bruce.

You got me puzzled (and worried) so I examined the unit and it only fits one way, as pictured. If I try to reverse it as you described, it cannot be made to even fit over the terminals. While I have not made a study of battery carrying straps, my guess is that the angles these gripper pieces are formed at, could be the difference. Just a guess. I would loosely compare it to a marine jam cleat, sort of. Instead of rope, the battery terminal ends are what the cleats jam into. As long as the battery is carried level, the battery's weight causes the cleats to "dig in" at an upward angle. They are like some python's teeth, as positioned to prevent the grip from loosening. It is one way only. It only gets tighter when more force (weight) is applied, which is what you want. There must be other ones out there that superficially look the same, but their fitment is different due to the nature of the "cleat" angles or another factor. Clay/Lexi

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Well, your terminals must be different to ours down here.

But, as you say, like a marine jamb cleat describes it well.

I will have to find mine, and see, but from what I can remember, there is a larger one for the Positive Terminal.   Place the complete loop down on the terminal, and the short piece jambs up against the post as you lift the handle.

Bruce.

[Lexi]

Well, your terminals must be different to ours down here.

But, as you say, like a marine jamb cleat describes it well.

I will have to find mine, and see, but from what I can remember, there is a larger one for the Positive Terminal.   Place the complete loop down on the terminal, and the short piece jambs up against the post as you lift the handle.

Bruce.

Maybe that is another item of interest Bruce. Mine are not terminal dependant. So both loops are the same diameter/size. It doesn't matter what terminal you put them on. Even the short pieces are the same. Perhaps hole size and angle of both clips when made, determine which way they best interface with the terminal post? My brain now hurts. Clay/Lexi

[jaxops]

I'd like to add one thing: put tape or electric tape around the terminals because they will spark when you touch all of that metal getting it out and it can surprise you, and you don't want to crush your hand or drop it on the fender!  Leave the plastic cover caps on the new one until it's in position.

I have to replace my '56 battery here shortly....again.