71 Eldo: Lower Ball Joint mounting stud nut

[wbdeford]

I almost have my suspension back together, needing only final tightening, cotter pins, and grease when I noticed:

Where the lower ball joints mount to the lower control arms, the upper nuts are extremely close to the axles.  The nuts themselves are taller than the studs they mount to, which I found strange.

The gap (see attached) will get even smaller when I tighten the axle nut.  Is this normal?  When I drop the car, will the gap get bigger?  Should I try to find a nut that is shorter?  Not use the lock washer?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

G'day William,

A bit difficult to make out what is in the picture, but there is nothing wrong with shortening the thickness of the said nut.

My car is parked in such a position that I cannot get down and look at it, but if you can post a clearer picture before I move my car, then that would be good.

But, in the meantime, the length of a nut only has to be the measurement of the diameter of the bolt thread that it is being attached to before it loses its' holding capacity.

Bruce.

[wbdeford]

Better picture.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Shouldn't be a problem.   It looks like the end of the joint is a long way from the rubber boot.

If there is clearance in normal use, there shouldn't be any problem with movement.

I have found that there is a bigger problem with the top ball joint where an unwitting mechanic inserts the split pin, and bends the pin over the end of the joint end.   If it isn't bent correctly, the end of the split pin could contact the rubber boot, and eventually cut it.

Bruce.

[wbdeford]

Yes, the boot isn't a problem.  My concern is the metal part of the axle farther out from the boot rubbing on the nut. But maybe they will move farther apart when I drop the car....I did find shorter nuts at a local hardware store I can use which should give it much more clearance, but I'd rather use the taller ones if I can.

Yes, definitely being careful about where I put the cotter (split) pin legs!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Using taller nuts won't make it any stronger.

Bruce.

[wbdeford]

Everything is back together enough to lower the car.  The distance between the nut and axle didn't change much, but I definitely don't like there being about 1mm or less between the nut and the axle, so I'm going with the shorter nuts.  Thanks for your help, Bruce!

[m-mman]

Another thing to try is turning it around and putting the BOLT head next to the axle boot instead of the nut.
The head of the BOLT will likely be thinner than the nut (&washer?) and give more clearance.

[wbdeford]

Another thing to try is turning it around and putting the BOLT head next to the axle boot instead of the nut.
The head of the BOLT will likely be thinner than the nut (&washer?) and give more clearance.

It is a stud, not a bolt, so no way to reverse that.

[wbdeford]

Even with the shorter nuts, the stud still doesn't protrude beyond the top of the nut.  I feel much better about the clearance.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Way to do.   You are now a Modifier.

Bruce.

[wbdeford]

Well, since they aren't genuine GM replacement ball joints to begin with, I only modified a non-standard   I am curious, though, if anyone has the GM replacement ball joints what they look like.

[Glen]

As you may know the original ball joint was riveted in and had little or no protrusion above the arm.  The replacements are bolted in.  The picture below is from the 70 Shop manual and the nut is very thin.  The same ball joint was used for the Eldo from 69 â€" 74 and maybe later.  My book is a 74 master parts book.   

[wbdeford]

Hi Glen....thanks for confirming this was the right decision.  Yes, the car was still on the original, riveted-in ball joints.