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#1
Sounds like it must have been real fun to figure all that out.  I assume you started out cursing the original engineers because things didn't make sense and seemed more complicated than they needed to be but once you figured it out had to give them some credit for coming up with some pretty slick designs to make things practical.  I know that is usually where I end up once I figure it out.  Its like I would have used 3 wires and relays but they figured out a way to do it with one and got 99% of the functionality of my circuit with less parts.

I have not had blower module issues recently myself but have some friends that were asking for help even after they paid the big bucks for NOS or rebuilt modules. I didn't dig deep to find out the sources of the parts or do a current draw measurement on the blowers but one guy is like $1000 in and still doesn't have a working system.  I was thinking something that uses Bosh style relays and some still commonly available resistor block would be more tolerant and easy to service if it did have issues. 

Something I did discover doing some research on the blower issues is at least in 84 and the DEFI the 'heater on' isn't its own switch like the older cars had, its getting the engine temp from the engine computer.  It didn't say what sort of signal that is like is it some variable signal or if its just an on/off like the stand alone switches were.  I don't have enough earlier manuals handy to know if that was a thing anytime there was a computer or came later. I would assume this was something you had to figure out and simulate when needed?
#2
Quote from: 59-in-pieces on April 26, 2024, 10:43:11 AMMike,

I was lazy to look back over your previous posts, but where did you find the convertible frame grey rubber nipples shown in this photo.

Have fun,
Steve B.


Hi Steve, yes, I got them from Steele - https://www.steelerubber.com/convertible-top-arm-cover-70-0736-67
#3
Thanks TJ. The display hardware was clearly designed around the original functions; decimal point only with avg MPG, diode-logic on the buttons, etc. The segments are individually driven, but the multiplexing to work around those constraints (including the status LEDs) was...interesting. Also, since these displays defaulted to Instant MPG on startup, the right two digits saw more burn-in over the years than the leftmost, so that had to be considered. Buttons use diode-logic on board which was also "fun".

I've stockpiled enough blower modules over the years to cover my needs (and they do vary by year and drivetrain), but a "fix" for failed modules is something I might take on in the future. Actually, I seem to recall a guy that repairs these...chipping away the potting and replacing the failed transistor with a modern equivalent. No system mods required.

#4
Seems unlikely to be something as easy as a switch.  Guessing there has to be some sort of control module?  Is there any sort of diagnostics available?  Is this not a factory thing?  If it was factory I'm sure you could use a scan tool to see what the module is seeing and doing.  If its not then who knows. 

Guessing by 2000 Cadillac would have been using some sort of network controls for things like windows so what ever module runs the top is communicating with the cars module and there may be other sensors involved to tell the module what status the windows and top is in.  It may be something like it thinks the top isn't completely up yet so it won't let it start the down sequence?  Or its commanding the windows down but they are not responding so its just waiting for that signal before it starts the top?     
#5
Hi everyone,

Yesterday I got out my 2000 Eldorado Coachbuilders convertible.  Put the top down, went for a drive, then put the top up when I got to my destination. When I came out, I tried to put the top down, and nothing--no noise from the motor, the boot flap did not raise, and the rear windows did not lower--just dead. Seems like the switch, but I can't imagine it just went bad right after I had raised the top. Before I check the switch, does anyone know if there is a fuse or relay that Coachbuilders used for the top?

Thanks,
Mike Shawgo
#20545
#6
Joe
Do the contacts move in when you push on them?
Greg Surfas
#7
General Discussion / Re: Lincoln vs. Cadillac | Don...
Last post by tcom2027 - Today at 12:45:52 PM
Outstanding! I had forgotten about that scene in the movie. Looks like I'll be spending some quality time in front of a monitor this afternoon.

Remember. "Rides like a Cadillac" It's part of the language


tony
#8
General Discussion / Re: 55 deville clock repair
Last post by KOKNEYELDO - Today at 12:36:35 PM
"Clockworks" repaired the clock on my 75' Eldo in 2015 for $112.95 and it still works great.
#9
Technical / Authenticity / Re: '61 Water Pump
Last post by Jon S - Today at 12:13:20 PM
Quote from: SteveB3155 on Yesterday at 11:01:35 PMFunny thing is, the guys that run this business are NOT named Arthur Gould.  They bought the company several years ago.  One time when I dropped a pump off there for a repair, I asked "who is Arthur Gould?"  They said they had no idea!

I met Arthur when his shop was in Kings Park, NY. He retired and I believe his son took over the business and moved it to Connecticut. They do fabulous water pump and fuel pump work.
#10
General Discussion / Re: POLL: What's the newest Ca...
Last post by scotth3886 - Today at 11:44:25 AM
I had five new ones from a 93 and 95 STS, 97 Concours and a 2000 and 2002 DTS.  This was before most of us knew about the Northstar issues of which I had none except a crank sensor on my 97.  I drag raced all of them and ran the Nevada Silver State open road race in my 97.  I had little to complain about.