News:

Reminder to CLC members, please make sure that your CLC number is stored in the relevant field in your forum profile. This is important for the upcoming change to the Forums access, More information can be found at the top of the General Discussion forum. To view or edit your profile details, click on your username, at the top of any forum page. Your username only appears when you are signed in.

Main Menu

New Member, Question on owning a pre-war 1935 to 1937 Cadillac

Started by Ketronj281989, January 23, 2022, 01:57:39 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Ketronj281989

Hello all,

I wanted to introduce myself as I am new to the forum.  I am a younger enthusiast and have been into mid 1930's autos for several years and currently own one. I do most of my own mechanical service work or at least what I can out of my garage.  I have been intrigued by prewar Cadillac for years and have decided to work toward achieving one.  I have questions though, hope you all can answer and help guide me.  My main interest are the years 1935 thru 1937.  Obviously a V16 is likely out of the question.  A V12 maybe, although a V8 seems more reasonable when it comes to price.  My budget ranges up to 70,000 or 80,000.  I really want to stick with two door coupes or convertibles.  For example, I found a 1936 convertible although it is missing several dash knobs including the choke knob/rod that goes to the carb.  Regarding 1935 thru 1937 Cadillac parts, are they difficult to find?  Are engine rebuilds difficult to achieve, how expensive?  I realize I am all over the map, any advice and guidance on what to move toward and what to stay away from would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,

Jon 

carlhungness

   There is a '38 LaSalle coupe in the latest Self Starter for $40,000 that sounds like a complete and total rebuild. When I called I got a , "What DO YOU want?" first sentence reply and finally got the owner on the phone. The tone of voice was definitely acrimonious but that has nothing to do with the car itself.
    I was seeking parts but not before the owner said, "I got $150,000 in it."
    Since you have a lot of money to spend and you're mechanically inclined I think you'll agree that buying a finished car will save you a bundle.
   I personally like the '35-36's better than the later models as they are harder to see out of which makes them a lot sleeker to my eye.
   I think one would spend a lot more than 40K restoring a '38 coupe as I am now investing in my '37 LaSalle (with a non-stock engine). I drove this car 100,000 miles with a flat-head in it, and now I'm opting for a '76 Eldorado 500" engine as I do love the flat-heads but this is going to be a daily driver and I'm more comfortable with the later engine. Then too, I don't care what the car is worth, I have a 58 year relationship with it so it'll be used to spread my ashes.
   A lot depends on what you want to do with the vehicle and which one you want. The pre-war stuff doesn't seem to be appreciating now so figure out what body style makes you happy and look for a finished vehicle is my best advice.

chrisntam

The "Self Starter" is the monthly publication of the Cadillac and LaSalle Club.  It is available once you become a member of the club.  Not sure if you knew that or not.  I'm a 1970 guy, can't help with your question beyond explaining what the Self Starter is.

Best of luck to you on your search, that sometimes is the most fun.  And try to buy one already finished and complete, you'll be money and time ahead.

And welcome to the forum!!
1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Brad Ipsen CLC #737

Just a quick summary if you are thinking 35 to 37.  Big changes mechanically in those years in every year.  35 was the final year of the old engine that goes back many years.  It has aluminum crankcase and cast iron blocks bolted to that.  36 was the first year of the monoblock V-8 but many changes were made the next year so 36 is basically a one year engine.  37 is the start of the long running flathead V-8 although there were still quite a few changes in 38 but for the most part new parts can be retrofitted back to 37.  Transmission in 37 was floor shift but then in 38 changed to side shift and stayed the same for many years.  If you want to analyze there is much to consider but I bet most of us stumbled on to the first old car and then learned about it.
Brad Ipsen
1940 Cadillac 60S
1938 Cadillac 9039
1940 Cadillac 6267
1940 LaSalle 5227
1949 Cadillac 6237X
1940 Cadillac 60S Limo

TonyZappone #2624

I had two 1937 Cadillacs.  A V-8 70 series 4 door, and a convertible sedan.  I found both cars to be great drivers, with hydraulic brakes, smooth shifting transmissions and a great ride.  They seemed to be quite mechanically advanced, compared to Packards that I owned, and a Pierce Arrow that I still own. I too would recommend '37 and up
Tony Zappone, #2624
1936 Pierce-Arrow conv sed
1947 Cadillac Conv cpe
1958 Cadillac conv
2016 Cadillac CT6 Platinum
2022 Chrysler Pacifica Pinnacle

cadillac ken

I own a '37 Cadillac, albeit, modified.  It looks to me that 2 door Cadillacs are not too easy to find in those years (1935 -1938) and in fact those in the know here in the club have estimated that my '37 series 60 Coupe is probably one of only about 500.  The LaSalle coupes do seem to pop up for sale more often but mostly the 1940 models.

1935 Cadillac coupes were the first to have a solid "turret" roof.  Prior years had the insert of vinyl since the steel company (Pittsburgh Steel IIRC) was not offering sheets of steel wide enough to stamp out a complete roof. 

1938 Cadillac was the first year for the rear hinged hood (like a "modern car") as the '37 I have still has the center hinged "gullwing" hood.  Which I actually prefer as you get a lot more access to the engine for tune ups and such. Plus, I really don't like the 1938 hefty looking grill. The 1937 has a wonderful "egg crate" grill.

V12s are impressive, but if you intend to drive and enjoy the car, you'd probably be happier with V8.  I've never owned a V12 but I've had a few flathead V8s that were super reliable and capable of highway speeds.  I drove my '47 Caddy flathead on the interstate to work every day for 35 to 45 minutes (and another 45 minutes home again) and it was as smooth as could be and never had any issues.

With the budget you mention, I would join others in saying buy the best car you can.  You will never make a "fixer upper" into what a really nice done car is for less money.  Restoration costs today are an eye opener.  I own a restoration shop and we seem to only get clients that want to restore the car that they have owned for many years and have a great attachment to.  Which probably is the only time it makes sense.

Of course the most important question is: What do you intend to do with the car?  Will you drive it more than once a week?  Once a month? Or more often a few times a week.  A convertible is nice but these tops are not easy to raise and lower and require more than a push of a button. Do you believe you will be driving the car with the top down often?  Where do you live?  Weather can be a big factor.  I'm in Florida and I can say there's only a few weeks a year, if that, where the weather is convertible friendly.  Summer is too hot to have the top down and since it almost never gets below 80 degrees even in the winter, a convertible for me is just not an option.  Plus there's the added maintenance of a convertible top that can take the joy out of it not to mention, they are not water tight and can be noisy with the top up and the windows up at speed.

Your projected budget should afford you a really nice V8 coupe in those years.  If you find one think hard since there are not a lot available for sale these days-- at least I haven't seen them.  You may feel like you are paying a little more than you want to but remember they are kinda hard to find.

Be sure to come back to the forum often.  These are a great group of folks who have a wealth of knowledge not found anywhere else and are happy to share it.

All the best to you.  Good Luck and enjoy the hunt,

Regards, Ken


Ketronj281989

Gentlemen I really appreciate all the responses.  What about the year 1935?  How wise or un-practical would it be to collect a 1935 year car?  Are parts just as scarce as 1936?

I will stay away from 1936 as the car I was looking at was missing the choke cable, knob, cigar knob, had a later carb and air cleaner on it and undercarriage rust/rot.  For the price of $59,000 and those items mentioned above I can see why it sat in their showroom for the last 4 years.  Thank you for helping me dodge this bullet!

1935 I find some of the most stylish and have located an original well maintained car supposedly sorted mechanically with an full engine rebuild.  Body and paint original and in excellent condition.  Thoughts on this and the 1935 year in general?

Thank you so much for the responses and help!


Jon Ketron

35-709

You might find this to be of interest --- https://www.newcadillacdatabase.org/static/CDB/Dbas_txt/Phocad35.htm
This link as well --- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadillac_Series_355#355E_(1935)

As you may know, and will read, '34 and '35 Cadillacs were basically exactly the same except for the front and rear bumpers.  '35 Cadillacs were still depression era cars and their low production numbers alone make them all rather rare, a coupe even more so.  Styling changed greatly for '36 --- early '30s Cadillacs (thru '35) are among my favorites., mine below.  Any pics of the '35 coupe you are looking at?
Geoff N.
1935 Cadillac Sedan resto-mod "Big Red"
1973 Cadillac Caribou - Sold - but still in the family
1950 Jaguar Mark V Saloon resto-mod - Sold
1942 Cadillac 6269 - Sold
1968 Pontiac Bonneville Convertible - Sold
1950 Packard 2dr. Club Sedan
1935 Glenn Pray - Auburn Boattail Speedster, Gen. 2

pmhowe

Hi Jon,
Im glad you are considering a 1935 model. Both the Fisher bodied and Fleetwood bodied 1935 Cadillacs are handsome cars. I have a 1935 Fleetwood bodied town sedan. I love it. I have had it for only a little over three years, but have found it to be a reliable, unfussy, fun car to drive. I have not had to replace any parts, but keep my eye out for whatever might show up on eBay or in this forum or others. Parts for these cars don't show up often. I'm sure parts are more readily available for 1937 and newer models.

I think 1935 was the last year for mechanical brakes. That should not bother you. I had to do some adjustments on mine in order to get them working properly, but once that was done, they work quite well. They are vacuum assisted.

The V8 engine runs smoothly, with adequate power. With that engine, it won't suck the doors off a BMW at the light, but the car will intimidate any BMW coming the other way, so there is a trade-off. The gear ratios available for 1935 were 4.8 to 1 and 4.6 to 1 for the Fleetwood cars and 4.6 to 1 and 4.36 to 1 for the Fisher bodied cars. My car is comfortable up to about 55 mph, which is fine for the roads near me.  It is not a car I would take on the interstate, however.

Phil

chrisntam

1970 Deville Convertible 
Dallas, Texas

Ketronj281989

Thank you all for your replies, appreciate all the help.

Jon