Body ready to come off.
Body off with the aid of a hoist. Easy as.
Questions to follow next thread.
Ken
Just a bit more of an update of what I have been up to.
Chassis sand blasted and primed.
I have organised the following new bits and pieces.
New headliner made and on its way.
New Heavy Duty Springs.
New exhaust system.
New hood pad.
New Deluxe front end kit.
New Shock absorbers.
New hub caps and medallions.
New hood crest and bezel.
Overhauled the following.
Starter Motor.
Hydrovac.
Wheel cylinders.
Working on the engine at the moment.
Currently trying to organise new Rubbers, grommets, seals etc for everywhere.
I have been using the big list of suppliers that Forrest, with the help of his friends, produced.
I have a friend who is bringing in a container to Australia out of Wilmington CA. and I have been lucky enough to be able to hitch a ride for my new goodies.
I can't believe how much everything costs. OOPS I forgot I answer my wife with, Not Much It Was a Bargain, whenever she asks.
Anyway I hope I can do all these purchases justice and turn this car from a sh**allac into a Cadillac.
More to come
Ken
Heres more.
Whilst I am waiting on all the bits to rebuild the chassis I am working on the engine and have sent the body off to the guy who is going to make it beautifull, once again.
I have a question about the park brake. Please check out my next thread because I can only show two photos at a time.
Ken
Now for the park brake.
When I first got the car I rolled it off the truck and applied the park brake.
I have never been able to get it off since.
Big pedal on, small pedal off. This is how it is done?
I have never had a car with this type of setup.
I had to release the cable to get the brakes off before I could start the strip down process.
Here is a couple of photos of the brake before I pulled it out of the car.
Does a problem jump out at anyone?
Ken
Same picture twice.
I am a retired soldier not a computer person.
Try this one.
Ken
great pictures! Keep them coming and keep up the great work!
For those with a keen eye.
Look the top left hand ball joint. It is an original one from 1957.
It still has the rivets in it.
All the rest have been changed at some time. They are held in place with nuts and bolts.
I will be replacing them all.
I will even be doing something about the upholstery.
Ken
Hi Ken,
That looks great.
SMS Fabrics will have all the material you need for your interior. Their contact info is on The List.
I've recently updated it with some additional vendors. You can click on the link below my name since it's no longer on this forum.
Hi Forrest,
Thanks for that mate.
I have obtained the correct material for the seats from SMS.
They have also made me a new headliner and provided a little extra material so I can re-do the sun visors.
Have also finally got hold of the formula for mixing the Mountain Laurel paint.
Ken
Hi All,
Is there any suggestions on why I cannot get the park brake to release.
Check out the photos of the brake set up.
Ken
Forget the park brake for the time being.
I have found a crack in the right hand head.
My local machine shop guy said he cannont fix it due to it's location.
Have a look at the photo.
Where do I get another good head or two from that are free of cracks and perhaps even with hardened valve seats.
Were the exhaust valve seats Induction Hardened at the time of build?
If not what diameter should the Valve Seat Inserts be?
I am in Australia but have access to a container out of Wilmington, CA.
Ken
G'day Ken,
Have a chat to Keith Deen in Brisbane. If anyone knows where there will be replacement parts in Australia, it will be him.
He is a Member of the Aussie CLC, and his phone number is in the Aussie Membership Directory.
If you can't find it, email me, and I will give you his Number.
Bruce. >:D
Ken
I have a head, you can have. BUT I do not know the condition of it. I will also be traveling to Bundy (QLD) for Christmas, and can bring it with me. Give me a cal 0401 100 288
Dave
Quote from: dave_wa on November 17, 2009, 08:18:20 AM
Ken
I have a head, you can have. BUT I do not know the condition of it. I will also be traveling to Bundy (QLD) for Christmas, and can bring it with me. Give me a cal 0401 100 288
Dave
if the head you get locally is no good -after you get it magnafluxed-let me know-
i have over 350 caddys -for parts and am sure i can find one w/o cracks.
also contact me when you are needing any advise on your FROFEN PARKING BRAKE CABLES
I found a head with the help of this forum but unfortunately when the owner checked it out it showed it was no good.
So back to the drawing board.
I still need a R/H Head.
Do any of the other years fit my 365 engine?
I have a 1957. Will 1958, 1959 and 1960 fit?
I may have found a 1959 in Brisbane.
Ken
LATE 1956 might be correct and ALL 1957. In 1958, they opened up the rod holes to allow the removal of the hydraulic valve lifters without having to remove the intake and valley pan. Other than that, they should be the same.
If you had a set of '58 heads rebuilt and put them on the car, nobody but you would know.
Quote from: Walter Youshock on November 23, 2009, 08:06:15 PM
LATE 1956 might be correct and ALL 1957. In 1958, they opened up the rod holes to allow the removal of the hydraulic valve lifters without having to remove the intake and valley pan. Other than that, they should be the same.
Thanks for that Walter,
I may be able to get hold of a 1959 head. Will that fit?
Regards
Ken
Not sure. The '59 was a 390. It SHOULD, but, unless you change both sides, it may not work.
You are safest to stick with the same BLOCK displacement--365 through 1958.
Walter,
Many thanks for your input.
My engine is original and I have matching numbers so I will definately stay with my block. I will keep looking for another head up to 1958.
As a last resort I will attempt to weld or perhaps stitch the crack.
Ken
Quote from: 57flw on October 25, 2009, 08:40:54 PM
Is there any suggestions on why I cannot get the park brake to release.
Ken, when the parking brake was applied, did you push on the small pedal? It's the release "lever".
Roger
Hi Roger,
Yes I did try the small pedal.
I think I should wait until I start to put it all back together before I get too excited about the park brake.
When I first applied the brake there was no master cylinder or brake booster fitted.
I would imagine all the return springs and mechanisms in place would become involved here.
I need to be patient and make sure everything else is connected and working properly first. If I cannot find a new cylinder head I will have no need for a park brake.
Ken
Quote from: 57flw on November 24, 2009, 03:20:00 AM
When I first applied the brake there was no master cylinder or brake booster fitted.
I would imagine all the return springs and mechanisms in place would become involved here.
Hi Ken
The parking brake is totally independent from the hydraulic part. The tension on the cable is sufficient to let release the parking brake. My '57 Brougham has the same system; I have to confess that if I do apply the brakes and push at the same time the small pedal from the parking brake, this one does not release completely because there is a lack of tension on the cable because the shoes are applied to the erar drums.
I understand that you have to find first a good head. You may have trouble to find one in Australia and you may be forced to import one from the States. Be ready to pay more for the shipping than for the head! (I'm living in Switzerland; shipping costs are all the time a problem...)
Roger
Quote from: william bradley on November 17, 2009, 12:07:01 PM
if the head you get locally is no good -after you get it magnafluxed-let me know-
i have over 350 caddys -for parts and am sure i can find one w/o cracks.
also contact me when you are needing any advise on your FROFEN PARKING BRAKE CABLES
Hi William Bradley,
I sent you the following email a few days ago. I have not seen a reply yet.
Would you be able to let me know if you have something that would suit my car.
It would need to be crack tested before shipping.
I have been told late 1956, all 1957 and 1958 will fit.
I have a friend who has a container leaving from Wilmington, CA from time to time. I think the next one is leaving in January 2010.
I need a right hand head but perhaps it would be best to get a matching pair. What do you think?
I would have preferred to get one locally ( Australia) but I am not sure if that is going to be possible.
If you have something what sort of cost would be involved?
Regards
Ken Francis
kandhfrancis@bigpond.com
Hi Everyone and Merry Xmas to you all.
Here is some of my presents. I got them early.
New coil and leaf springs, shackle pins and bushes, ball joints, camber/caster shafts.
It was great to buy from America and see made in the USA on some of the parts.
I was not real impressed to see made in Taiwan on the tie rod ends though.
I have kept the original parts just in case.
More to follow.
Ken
Chassis painted with the good stuff.
Still more to follow
Ken
Here's how I used my hoist to replace the front coil and the rear leaf springs.
Due to the fact there was no wieght on the chassis I held the chassis to the hoist with rope and clamps.
It was a little bit tricky but overall it worked fine.
Ken
And check out the next one. I Found RUST.
After looking at all the other restorations that have been shown on this site I have been in awe at some of the magnificent work that people have done.
Well I will almost be in the same class now because I have found some rust in the spare wheel well after the body was sansblasted.
Look real close at the photo.
What do you all think.
Has this improved my rating?
Just Kidding. You gotta have some fun.
Ken
Ken,
That's not rust, it's acne! Apply a little makeup and continue on to the prom.
Kelly
Little bit more of an update.
Not much work happened over Xmas due to being in the spirit. Mainly Beer and Bundaburg Rum.
Plenty of time in the swimming pool. Our Xmas temp was 32C or 90F.
Managed to dive with the sharks at Rainbow Beach.
Finally freed up the park brake set up. Just siezed through the lack of use. Used a can of WD40 and a lot of soaking hours and it is now all good.
The crack free replacement heads are on their way from the USA.
Still trying to find some reasonably priced parts to rebuild my engine.
Ken
I want to take the ID plate off my car so I can prepare it properly for painting.
My question is. If I drill the rivets out is there somewhere I can get replacement ones that will suit the car.
Regards
Ken
Ken, you may do the same as I dit: you remove the air duct cover and, with a little screwdriver, you unfold the rivets from behind. After painting, you can install the body plate by working the rivets from behind. I did that on my 3 cars.
Roger
Hi Roger,
I have a Diploma in Mechanical Engineering and I feel embarassed at your simple and I could see effective suggestion. I will just go and hide my head and won't tell anyone about this.
Many thanks.
Ken
Quote from: 57flw on February 03, 2010, 02:55:58 AM
Hi Roger,
I have a Diploma in Mechanical Engineering and I feel embarassed at your simple and I could see effective suggestion. I will just go and hide my head and won't tell anyone about this.
Many thanks.
Ken
Don't be embarassed Ken! Sometimes engineers (I'm one too) are thinking too far away and don't see the simple solution! and "with a little help of my friends" those thinking people are saved!
Roger
Roger,
Your words are too kind.
Many thanks
Ken
I am now talking about rear leaf springs.
I have fitted new heavy duty springs I acquired from Eaton Springs in Chicago.
A friend of mine dropped over today to see how the car was going and said my rear springs are too short.
First of all I wish he had not come over. He always has a negative opinion on everything. Anyway enough complaining.
I removed one of the springs and compared it to one of the old ones that I would imagine is original, like the rest of the car.
There does not seem to be very much of a difference between the two except the old ones look sagged.
The hanger is a long way forward. Have a look at the pictures. Old one 9303604. New one 173991.
My question is. Will the hanger move enough once there is some weight back on the chassis?
Regards
Ken
Your friend would not stay my friend for a long time! He may have qualities but not in the automotive sector!
Your springs are OK. When you will install the shock absorbers (do it before the body will be coming on the frame) you will have to load the frame otherwise you will not be able to attach them at the other side (your friend will say that they are too short).
When puting some wheight on the frame, the spring shackles will either go up (the wrong way) or down. Usually they go up just to let laugh your friend. You have to take a piece of wood inserted between the shackles to force the spring to go down. Once the shock absorbers are installed, the shackles will have the proper stance.
I hope that my explanation are good enough; it's not all the time easy to do it in English!
Roger
Roger,
Many thanks again to you.
By the way your english is very good. I would not be able to talk to anyone from Switzerland in their language. Well done.
I did try and fit the rear shockers and decided I will have to wait until I had some weight back on the chassis.
I will refit the spring, that I had already compared to the old one prior to fitting it, as you do and wait until I put the body back onto the chassis.
Have a look at the photo. Is this where you are saying to put the wood?
Once again thanks for your help.
Ken
Exactly, Ken. To lower the frame to install the shock absorbers: you can also attach the rear axle to the cross member with a rope or whatever suitable and span it to compress the rear springs. If you wait to have the weight of the body on the frame to have the correct stance of the shackles, you will be so busy that you will forget them!
You may have the choice of 4 languages in Switzerland: German (or swiss german, which is a slang), French, Italian and Romanche!
My mother tongue is French and I can speak German.
Roger
I am with Roger on the remedy.
Personally, I would use a small crow bar between the spring eye and the chassis, between the hanger sides, and once the weight is on the chassis, simply lever the bar to "pop" the main leaf downwards, as the weight is being applied.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce, it was what I intended to explain with my broken English. However, if he is waiting too long - I mean when the body is on the frame - he will be unable to insert the pray bar. Therefore he should install the shock absorber first.
Roger
Roger and Bruce,
I am pretty sure I understand what is required now.
I will do as suggested and all should be good.
There really must be quite some weight involved here.
Thanks for the help.
Ken
Well, seeing as the car weighs in at just over 2 Tons, there has to be at least 1 Ton at the rear, so yes, there is a bit of weight involved.
Bruce. >:D
Update on my rear spring hangers.
I wanted to fit the rear shocks but could not, due to the distance between the rear axle housing and the chassis. The distance will reduce once the body weight is put back onto the chassis.
I did not have any fancy tools, so this is what I did.
I took a length of steel rod and bent it around my grinder stand into a U shape. I drilled a couple of holes in a piece of box metal to form a top jacking point.
Don't worry about my description too much. I have provided pictures.
I used a small hydraulic jack to drag the axle housing toward the chassis, to reduce the distance between the two. This in turn extended the rear of the rear springs which also caused a rearward movement of the rear spring hangers.
A happy result all round except I could not fit the rear shocks because the top threaded pin is too short. I will need to purchase more shockers.
They were provided by an American Company who said they were correct for a 57 Caddy. They were wrong, I think.
The longest part of this Resto is waiting on parts.
Ken
Hi Ken,
Just curious how the new shocks compare to the old ones. How much shorter are the new ones compared to theones you took off?
Hi Forrest,
Without getting too critical in measuring one end is 2 inches and the other is 1.5 inches.
There is not enough thread to get the nut started.
Ken
Forrest,
Let me qualify my last comment.
The new shockers are the same length as the old ones. I am referring to the end pins that actually hold the shocker in place.
The lower end is fine. The upper end is half an inch too short. By the time I place the two washers and rubbers there is no thread what so ever showing.
Ken
Don't you think that when you put the body on the frame they'll fit?
I'm sure the suspension will squish down more than 1/2" once it's all together. I wouldn't worry too much about looking for other shocks. I'd finish building the car and put the shocks on then. My guess is that you'll have to compress the shock in order to squeeze it into place rather than installing it at the limit of its travel.
Forrest,
Perhaps my description of the problem was not quite good enough.
I always think a photo is better sometimes than words.
My wife quite often says, "I have no idea what you are talking about, show me a picture".
So here are the pictures.
As you can see 7617 is all OK. Photo 7618 shows there is no way to fit this end using the rubbers and washers provided. There is no thread visible for the nut and the mounting bracket has not come in to play yet.
Ken
As a temporary or definitive solution: cut some mm at the end of each rubber bushing until you have enough space to start to screw the nut. It won't hurt and you can rescue your shock absorbers.
Roger
Thanks Roger,
I had already thought of that. We must think a like. Scary isn't it.
If I was just going to do a temporary fix that is exactly what I would have done.
I want a more long term sollution, so I will replace the shocks and try and find out what the wrong shocks fit and put them on Ebay.
Ken
Yes. A picture explains it all. That is strange.
As for trying to figure out what they fit, those aren't going to fit anything since it isn't the car causing the trouble. It's obviously impossible to fit them to any vehicle without using thinner bushings.
Maybe weld a piece of threaded stock to the end?
From the picture I see, you are only a 16" or so from seeing threads on the end there. In cases like that I push upward on the shock body compressing the lower rubber slightly so I can get a couple of threads caught with the retaining nut. Then the wrench will do the rest of the hard work until you have the bushings properly compressed. Looks like what you have should work just fine, the bushings are supposed to be compressed until they bulge to the diameter of the washers.
If the bracket on the frame the shock goes through is thick enough that the mounting stud of the shock is not protruding past the bushing washer as in the picture, then my suggestion is not valid and you do need a shock with a longer mounting stud.
I've enjoyed following your progress.
David
I once had a similar problem with front shocks on Bessie; the threads were just a tiny bit too short to engage. What I did was I (temporarily) put them together leaving out the top bushing. Now it fit easily and I cranked the nut down very tight. Then I let it sit a few hours. After that I took the top nut and washer off, and quickly put on the top bushing, washer and nut. The first torquing squished and settled the bottom bushing enough that I could now engage the threads with the nut even with everything in its proper place, so when I tightened it up this time I was done.
Of course having the right length of top threads would be a lot easier.
-mB
Hi Forrest,Roger,David,mb,
Thanks for your suggestions.
All of those have gone through my mind.
I sent the photo"s off to the place that supplied the parts and the Guy responded immediately. He asked me to provide him the part numbers of the shocks and the bushings he sent me.
He obviously got one of them wrong.
Stay tuned for the outcome.
Ken
Well the rear shockers are finally in place.
The guy off eBay I bought them from (greghire1) was very, very helpful. Greg is from Fort Wayne IN. 46805.
After checking his entire stock of rubbers, which by the way were exactly the same as the ones he sent me, he modified a new set and posted them to me. He used Rogers suggested method.
They fitted without any problems at all.
I used my little compression rig and it worked well.
The spring hangers are now looking good and are heading in the right direction. They should be in the correct place once the weight of the body is applied.
I have plenty of new parts due to land shortly which include the new body to chassis mounts. There should also be a lot of engine parts and body rubbers so I will have plenty of things to do.
I have been held up waiting for parts for quite a while.
Here are some photo's of the rear spring hanger.
Ken
I almost took over another persons request for help in regards to a hard starting problem. Sorry about that. I won't do that again. It makes it too difficult to keep on the subject and for everyone concerned to get the right answers.
By the way Dave Yaros I will find somewhere to connect that pipe during the rebuild.
I started talking about my heat riser and whether I should keep it or not. At the time of stripping the car mine was frozen and wired in the open position. See photo.
I must admit though I am a little confused now about keeping or discarding the heat riser. I have read up on why it is there and what it does and answers such as remove it, keep it but make sure it works, keep it and maintain it, remove the butterfly and keep the spacer, all have merit and are worth considering.
The people that have made comments are the ones I look to for the good answers and this time they all do not agree with each other. This is rare and also good.
I do not see snow where I live and ice is kept in the freezer, to put in my glass when I have a rum and coke. Perhaps my last statement would have an effect on the advise.
Over to you all.
Ken
Well you know my position. I believe it should not be removed.
In the other thread some one said the valve should not be lubed. That is half right. It should not be lubed with any petroleum product because the heat of the exhaust pipe will cook the oil to a hard mess and the valve will be non fictional.
If you don’t lubricate it the rust will cause it to freeze up and you will have to break it loose at every oil change as someone else has suggested.
The only lubricant that should be used on the heat riser is graphite.
As I said in the other thread once I put the Part Ease on the valve I never had to worry about it again.
I live in the only state that did not have snow this winter and I have experienced symptoms of carburetor icing, mostly because of the high humidity.
Keeping the heat riser improves drivability in the first few minutes of driving. But many people think the problems caused by not having a heat riser are just the way these old cars back in the day.
Maybe someone know where I can find this part for my Fleetwood 57, or maybe someone have it:
I need this small part:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fs003.radikal.ru%2Fi202%2F1003%2F96%2F5ad6ab9e0f92.jpg&hash=453a8db253f4642b3f88e8a1a8513410d262e0d4) (http://www.radikal.ru)
And it is located in wiper arm:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi060.radikal.ru%2F1003%2F3f%2F673e19f6195c.jpg&hash=b7feb6abdcc51d6b768d3ffb25b0fcfe4bf96ac2) (http://www.radikal.ru)
PLEASE HELP ???
I'm afraid you have to look for another wiper arm. It seems to me that the spring is broken; I don't remember that it can be removed from the arm; however, I'm not sure.
Roger
Well does it take a long time to get parts from the US or what.
I had a whole bunch of parts sent to Wilmington for shipping to Australia and it just took forever to get the parts loaded into the container, the container on to the boat, the boat across the huge amount of water, the container off the boat and then the really big step, through the Australian Customs mob. Then finally to me.
Well enough complaining. I used all the parts and hopefully have used them correctly to make a previously sick engine into a good one.
Here is a couple of pictures.
Ken
and a couple more.
I am now just waiting on a replacement Vacuum Pump to arrive so I can fit it to the oil pump and complete the Engine Assembly and then use some of that new Cadillac Blue paint I got hold of.
The cylinder head problem I reported earlier has now been rectified.
I acquired two good replacement heads from Witchita Falls, TX.
I have just moved to a new house I purchased on three acres and had to move all the Caddy parts, piece by piece. This is not something I would like to do again.
I now need to build another shed to accomodate my hoist.
Ken
Engine almost complete now that the replacement Vacuum pump has arrived.
Now for the water pump. No use doing all this work without doing up the water pump.
My car was originally No Air Con.
When I aquired all the Air bits and pieces I also got, amoung other things, the radiator and water pump out of the air con donor car.
Well the two pumps look the same to me except one has a couple of long pipes attached to it.
The original pump from non air car, photo's 447 and 453.
Casting number 1465323-2
Number on small plate attached 4N26
The replacement pump from the air con donor car is photo's 454 and 445.
The casting number is 1465323-4.
The number on the attached plate is 7-18.
It does not seem as though it would accomodate the long pipes.
My Questions are.
1. Are the pipes supposed to be there or are they some kind of mod.
2. Does it make any difference which pump I use?
The donor pump seems to be in better condition than the original.
Ken
I may be wrong, but the hard tubing looks more like a Plumber once owned the car, and definitely not automotive style.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce is on the right track. It looks like some decided to go with copper tubing under the intake manifold for the transmission cooling lines. Your second set of photos are correct for '57. The cooling lines should be rubber hoses running between the intake manifold and the valley cover. They are held in place by a couple of sheet metal brackets to keep them from touching the exhaust crossover in the intake.
e
Quote from: Coupe on May 24, 2010, 08:23:57 AM
It looks like some decided to go with copper tubing under the intake manifold for the transmission cooling lines.
I think you meant to say Heater Hoses.
Bruce. >:D
In '57 the heater hoses go off the drivers side of the water pump and transmission cooling hoses run off the back under the manifold. The transmission cooler was a small tank mounted on the back of the transmission with hoses running to the water pump. In '58 the transmission cooling lines were run to radiator. I am not sure when the heater hoses were first routed under the manifold. I know in '62 they go under the manifold.
I should have clarified my response. I am familiar with the series 62 and have assumed the Fleetwood is similiar.
On both '56 I have, the rubber hose for the transmission is going under the intake manifold.
Roger
I love this site, and learning new things.
Thanks for educating me,
Bruce. >:D
Thanks for the replies guys.
Bruce and Paul, I do agree with you on the plumbing work. I thought it looked a bit strange. I have just sent the pump that came out of the donor car to a bloke in Victoria that has done many of these.
Bruce, I don't know if you have dealt with him but it is John at JDM Industries in Elthan.
How do the hoses attach to the pump?
I would have expected a flair or something similar for the hose clamp to rest against. Check out the left hand union in photo 454.
Ken
G'day Ken,
That end looks like it has been cut off, but the photo isn't that clear.
It doesn't need much of a "knob" on the end to retain the hose, and I have seen fittings which are just plain pieces of pipe that have been screwed, or pressed, into housings.
And no, I haven't used JDM Industries before, but will keep the listing handy for the future.
Bruce. >:D
That pipe may have been cut for some reason, I think I had flares on mine but I'm not 100% sure. But the pipe was short, that I remember!
Had a pain with re-soldering one of the other pipes (upper, to the transmission cooler?). Took a while until it was leak free, much easier with pump off the car!
Funny thing is that the only casting number visible on my pump is a 5 digit 50240. Well, maybe not that funny..
I've always believed the waterpump was correct for an A/C car but of course a lot can happen in 50 years.
Is your "conversion kit" early or late? (different pulleys etc.)
Keep posting, interesting thread to follow!
/JKF
JKF,
Not sure what you mean about early or late conversion kit.
My set for the air is a complete second hand air conditioner out of a donor car from Canada. I got everything that was needed to make the air work. If the part was needed to operate the aircon it was supplied to me in the big box.
Pleased to see you find what I am doing interesting. I am enjoying it also and am pleased with the help I have received.
I will have to wait until I receive the water pump back to see what I can do about connecting the trans cooler hose to that short pipe.
Ken
Ummmmm....... so the wheels are different on an A/C equipped car? ;)
Bruce. >:D
Very good pick up Bruce, especially for a Tasmanian.
No, I believe they are the same A/C or not HaHa.
That wheel gave me a spare that I was missing.
My car has a Carter AFB and the donor car had a Rochester 4Barrel.
Is the idle up valve the only thing that my Carter, non A/C, is missing and can I use the Carter with the idle up valve from the Rochester or should I overhaul the Rochester and use that.
I do know that the Carter Carby works. The Rochester quality is unknown.
I can provide pictures if you like.
Ken
Hey Guys.
Any comments regarding Carter or Rochester Carby re my last post.
I would prefer to keep the original on the engine, ie. the Carter.
Can I use the idle up thing off the Rochester or do I need to source another one?
Ken
Lou, Thanks for your comments.
Here is a couple of photo's of the two Carbies I have.
The Carter is the original one off the engine and I know it works but does not have an idle up device. Photo 497.
The Rochester is off the donor car, with idle up but the condition is unknown.
I know I could recon the Rochester since it appears to be complete.
Where possible I want to keep the car as original as I can without going silly and adding heaps of money to the rebuild.
My question is.
Did the Fleetwood get produced with a choice of the two Carbies or was it just the Carter?
Ken
It wasn't exactly a "choice" per se. The customer didn't order a vehicle with a Carter or a Rochester, he just got whatever happened to be on the vehicle when it was delivered.
It seems odd today with modern standards of mass production but that was pretty common among carmakers back then. Most people don't realize that even today carmakers don't make most of the parts for their own cars but rather buy them from independent manufacturers who build them to the carmakers' specifications.
GM light truck frames, for example, are made by a huge Canadian company that no one's ever heard of called Magna.
Keep your GM car all GM? That's just a slogan that's as misleading today as it was when Madison Avenue thought it up.
Bit more of an update with the body work.
Just a small sneak look.
A couple of photos of the bonnet repair.
Ken
And a couple of pictures of the doors.
When the car came back from the sand blaster there were no major surprises to get too excited about.
After looking at the magnificent work that Lou has been doing on "Project Omaha" I thought it quite prudent to have a really good look and poke around the entire car to find the thin spots.
Well a few were located and not wanting the problem areas to show later some cutting and replacing was needed.
But overall the car is in very good nick.
Ken
For those who are following my updates on the rebuild, here is a few more photos of the body work.
Photo 002. Some repairs to the doors. This is the result from my last update.
Photo 019. This shows some of the colour of the satin black underneath.
More to follow.
Ken
And a couple more.
Photo 675. The floor interior is ready for what ever comes next.
Photo 681. Some real colour at last.
By the way you lot, it is not Pink, it is Mountain Laurel. Real men don't have pink cars, or so I have been told.
Ken
ps. I have been introduced to Skype by my Brother who is travelling around Australia in his caravan. I must be a bit slow because I had not heard about it. I was amazed that we could talk via a microphone and computer whilst he was parked on the side of the road.
How about that. The next thing you will find is that men have been to the moon!
I signed up to Skype. My contact is Fleetwood1957.
If anyone has heard of it give me a call but don't forget I speak Australian. Is it something like English but better.
Ken
Well I have been working away in the background just doing my thing, some mechanical stuff and plenty of cleaning. I will be glad when the parts cleaning has finished.
Here is a couple of photo's of the parts that take a lot of time to get back to a workable, clean and usable condition.
Oh how I miss having helpers. Those army days in the workshop were the good days. I like to remember the good days when one could say. Do This or Do That and the reply would be Yes Sir.
Oh well, enough living in the past, back to the real world.
A couple of dirty cross members.
Ken
Here is the pile of USA dirt I collected from just one of the cross members along with a dime from behind the back seat.
After quite a long time the part came clean, no thanks to my helpers, they are now ready for painting and fitting.
Next will be a couple of mechanical bits.
Ken
Time to fit the transmission to the engine after tightening the flex plate.
Then I show my skills, or lack there of, with a can of spray paint.
Ken
Bit more of an update in 3 posts.
Post 1
Engine and trans back on the chassis. This was a very easy task with nothing in the way. Wish all engines jobs were that easy.
Couple of photo's attached.
Ken
Post 2.
More cleaning up to do.
This time it was the power steering pump. It was nice and clean inside and even the filter screen was in a very good and clean state.
Pulled it to pieces enough to give it a paint job in my spray booth.
Two photo's.
Also cleaned up the Prop Shaft and fitted it after replacing the six bushes in the centre mount.
Ken
Post 3.
Time to sort out the exhaust system.
Did a dry fit to make sure it all lines up properly. Will get it welded before I drop the body back on so it will be easy to do a complete circle of weld.
Even put a bit of the shiny bits back onto the rear of the chassis to aid in aligning the exhaust. The exhaust tips pass through the bumper ends on my model, and I suppose some others as well.
Waiting on the replacement for my heat riser, that is in many pieces, before doing the welding.
Then I will need some advise on where all the parts in photo 60711 go.
Stay tuned.
Ken
The round thing on the second bottom right shelf sits in a position 90 degrees to where it is sitting now, and you have to put an expensive black with white stripe, (on one side) round squashy thing with a big hole in the middle of both sides and then blow it up. ;D
Bruce. >:D
Thanks for your input Bruce. I think you picked the hardest part.
I do not understand how all this works. Once I do as you say and spend all that extra money, then I put it in the boot (trunk for our US brothers) and hide it from view.
It just does not seem to make any sense.
Ken
Did a dry fit to make sure it all lines up properly. Will get it welded before I drop the body back on so it will be easy to do a complete circle of weld.
Why do you weld the exhaust system? Can you not use the clamps?
Hi Roger,
Nice to hear from you again.
The reasons I am thinking of welding the exhaust sytem are.
1. There is no cuts in the pipes that I aquired from the USA, so I have to put them in or weld. See photo.
2. I do not want any leaks at all so welding is a more sure way of having a silent system.
3. I thought by taking my age into cosideration and the fact that the entire system is brand new, with the good old American aluminized steel, it will give me a long life.
4. The system I removed was also welded.
Ken
Ken, my exhaust systems came the same way. I did 3 notches with a hacksaw on each tube and used clamps. Economical solution, tight and possibility to remove something "just in case".
Anyway, you are seeing the end of the tunnel!
I am with Roger here, and to stop it flexing out of shape, just add a tack weld, in a position so it is possible to hit it with an angle grinder from underneath, like when the car is on a hoist, so you can replace individual pieces when they rust out.
Believe me, they will rust out in places, especially on the top of where it goes over the rear axle. The best way to stop a steel exhaust system from rusting out is to drive the car every day, and if you can't, go for drives of distances longer than 50 miles, so the heat will remove all traces of condensation.
Bruce. >:D
Ok Roger and Bruce.
I posted what I was doing and received advice or suggestions on a better way to do something.
I have taken that advice on board and therefore spent some time removing the exhaust system, cutting slots in the places that needed them, and refitting the system. Well one side of it anyway.
As they say it won't happen overnight but it will happen.
And the work continues.
Ken
And the saga continues.
I suppose if one does a rebuild on an old vehicle one should always expect the unexpected.
It was time to instal the oil filter. Mine was originally on the right hand side of the engine but because I am going to fit Airconditioning it needed to be changed to the left hand side.
With this in mind I got hold of the correct brackets to allow for the fitment and did not torque the two head bolts that hold the bracket in place.
When I went to do the bolts up things did not "feel" right.
I removed the bolts and one of them ended up with no thread. See photo.
To make sure the thread in the block was fine I had to remove the head. Run a tap down all threads, for the second time, no problem found.
I can only suggest fatigued head bolts.
Naturally I will also need to remove the other head just to make sure.
The next hard thing will be obtaining new head bolts for a Cadillac in Australia.
Ken
Ken,
If you can figure out which ones you need, send me a list. I have some left over from my project. There are several the the same size. The one that holds the A/C bracket on the RH side is the odd one.
Give me the lengths, and I will check.
David
Hi David,
I have yet to look at the air con bracket and how that mounts.
I am still getting over the fact that anyone would put a bracket of any kind under a head bolt. I have not seen this before. I always thought the head bolts only held the head down, not brackets for something else.
Many thanks for your kind offer of help.
I would feel better if I could replace all the bolts with new ones.
Ken
I gets better. The aft A/C compressor bracket traps the valve cover. You can not remove the valve cover with that bracket in place. The top mounts to the intake manifold, the lower attaches to the head.
Make the A/C compressor the last thing you sort out.
Just a thought.
David
David,
Thanks once again for your input.
If your 58 is similar to my 57 could you send me a couple of photo's, of the A/C set up showing where the brackets go, when you get a chance.
Ken
Ken,
Here is a reference shot of 58 Fleetwood I passed on. I believe there is a slight change in the bracket in 58, at least the front, (Brougham's continued to use the 57 brackets), but the aft bracket shows the condition and that is what you will have. I have spares of these and a 58 I bought by mistake.
Hope this helps.
David
David,
Thanks for the photo.
As I said I have not looked at the A/C brackets yet so I will keep this photo for future reference.
Do you have any idea where I could obtain a new set of head bolts from that would suit my car.
I will try and get them here in Aus first if possible.
Ken
Ken,
You can reuse the ones you have. I have some spares, so it is a matter of figuring out what you are missing. Those are grade 8 at a minium, so finding english sized bolts might be a little hard in OZ. There are several fellows parting out cars, so if you watch a 57 or 58 being parted, send a note and request the engine fasteners. John Morris does a great job and that is who I bought a set from.
Good luck.
David
To give myself a break from the engine, stripped threads and engine bolts I thought I would have a change of tactics and refit the body to the chassis.
Photo 1126 shows the body on the repair frame.
Photo 1127 shows the body off the frame.
Photo 1135 Chassis is placed into position ready for the body to be lowered.
All went to plan- well almost.
Ken
Photo 1141 shows the body coming down with the aid of my hoist.
Photo 1172 shows where the exhaust was touching the body and stopping me from joining the two parts back together.
Oh what joy it is. Take the exhaust system off to aid the task. One step forward and two back. No wonder it takes a long time to do a rebuild.
Photo 1169 shows putting one of the rear body bolts in with a little help from our border collie.
Once the exhaust part was out of the way, the body bolt holes lined up perfectly, showing no signs of body distortion following the repairs. Quite happy with the result.
Ken
Aren't you glad you didn't weld the exhaust all together. ;)
Nice to see the Puppy lending loyal support. I suppose it is a nice touch, there to remove the sweat from your brow?
Bruce. >:D
Yes Bruce.
I am glad I didn't weld the exhaust all together. That would have caused me quite a bit of extra work.
I do not like undoing the work I have done already as it is but unfortunately there is no instruction book to say, do this bit first.
If any one has any tips on procedure please do not be bashful. Pass them on.
Ken
David,
Just to give you an update of where I am in relation to the damaged bolts and why they are damaged is more important.
When I pulled the engine out and stripped it I took off the exhaust manifold first and then the heads.
When I put it back together I put the heads back on first then the exhaust manifolds. All good so far.
I left the two center bolts on the left hand side finger tight knowing I would need to remove them later to fit the oil filter bracket.
When I undid them they were tight all the way out and as you have seen in the photo's, they came out minus their threads.
The reason for this is the 4 inside bolts that hold the exhaust manifold in place were too long. They had been replaced with new ones before my time. These bolts caused the damage to the head bolt threads.
I cut two threads off each bolt on both manifolds and that has fixed the problem.
I will know tomorrow if I have been succesfull in obtaining a replacement for the damaged bolts. Otherwise I may need to call on you for some help.
I may only need the 2 bolts that hold the oil filter bracket on the left hand side of the head and whatever number of bolts that is required to hold the A/C bracket on the right hand side of the engine.
Ken
Ken,
I will have to check the std. Cadillac parts manual to help determine how long the bolt/s you need. Mine does not have an oil bracket on the LH side, my oil filter is off the block (that and a few extra drilled and tapped holes) is what makes a Brougham block unique.
It seems the A/C bracket bolt is always the one shorted as it was the odd one. Of the spares I got, I used the only one I had on my car. As I write this, I can not remember if there were some longer, but I do not think so, as those could be cut down.
I bought some from John Morris, most were OK, but the engine he parted out must have been worked on at some point as some of the fasteners were non Caddy. The others I picked up from a friend in Belgium who had a bad engine that he had replaced and these were his left overs, I was there on GM business and those came back in checked baggage.
David
Whist waiting for the bolts, I decided to get the heater ready to fit to the body.
I opened it up and overall it looked quite good except for the Ranco Valve. When I tested the system there was a water leak at the valve.
Hence the signs of rust. See photo.
I am now trying to find a replacement valve. Fancy that I need something else.
And also another broken part.
This is a type of clip that holds two parts together. Have a look at the photo's.
There is two of them, one is broken and the other does not look too strong.
They fit at both ends of the push rod that connects the brake pedal to the master cylinder.
Does any one know of a supplier that I could obtain two replacements from.
Ken
Hi Ken,
Believe it or not, some of those valves are still available new from auto parts stores. If not, there are two rebuilders of Ranco, Shaw and Harrison valves on the "List".
Look for Joe Hudacek and Jim Tucker.
Of course all these solutions are a pain in the neck for someone in Australia but I suppose you're probably used to that by now.
Click the link below for contact information.
Hi Forrest,
Thanks for the reply.
I had already found Jim Tucker on your list and sent him an email yesterday. Waiting on an answer.
I do envy you guys in the States sometime, where you have great access to suppliers.
Do you have any idea on the broken clip?
Ken
I would try to weld it back together since it looks like a clean break. You could probably have a local machine shop make them for you. they appear to be pretty simple.
And yes, we do have a fairly easy time getting parts considering the age of the vehicles. Most mechanical parts for cars of our vintage and even older are available over the counter from local chain stores.
The internet has made it a whole lot easier to source the model specific items like sheet metal and trim. I can't imagine trying to do a full restoration on a 20s or 30s vintage car in the 1970s. You really had to beat the bushes back then I suppose to find even the simplest things.
When you look at things more closely you learn new things all the time.
I thought the broken part was made of bakerlite or something similar because it was so light.
I just put a magnet on it and found out it is metal. I will weld it.
As for finding a machine shop. I live in Hervey Bay which is a beautiful sea side town that is known for it's Whale watching. I don't know of anyone with a lathe let alone any other machine shop machinery.
But once again Forrest, thanks for the thought.
Ken
Well, there's your excuse to buy a new piece of shop equipment!
Thanks mate.
I will tell my wife it was your suggestion. I think it was a good one.
I am sure she will say I have the Caddy, Scuba Diving and Pistol club, surely that's enough.
My answer will be a guy never has enough of anything.
Ken
And the work continues.
All the head bolts are back in and torqued, so is the water pump, inlet manifold, power steering pump, oil and temp sender units and distributor.
I have stripped the aircon evaporator and was quite happy with the internal appearance. All looks good here. Photo 314.
Cleaned it up and flushed it out , put it back together and fitted it back into it's new home. Photo 342.
I tested the Air Con Blower and it really belts the air out. I pulled it to bits, just to be on the safe side then cleaned the surface rust off it with a wire brush and then it went straight to the spray booth for a freshen up. Photo 343.
Like I said before, it won't happen over night but it will happen.
Stay tuned.
Ken
Hi all,
I am still here.
Where has the time gone. Cadillac rebuild, What Cadillac rebuild.
An opportunity arose that I could make a quick Dollar or two by buying an investment house, doing a bit of work on it and selling it off at a super profit.
Well how wrong could one be.
The work needed took ALL of my spare time and the resale market is terrible.
The house hasn't sold yet but I think it is close.
The 57 Fleetwood has just gone off to the painter and I will get it back in about five weeks or so looking fabulous.
I can do the mechanical stuff myself, with a lot of help from this forum, but I have to leave the painting side to the experts.
Stay tuned.
Ken
A while ago I showed a photo of the Ranco Valve that sits inside the heater box.
It was leaking and had signs of it being rusty.
I sent it on a trip to Jim Tucker in CA. for overhaul.
Here is the result.
Photo 272 shows old, leaking and rusty.
Photo 431 shows it rebuilt.
Photo 482 shows it fitted in the car.
Ken
Hi all,
Have been very busy lately being the do this do that person for my mate the panel beater come painter.
The Fleetwood is coming along quite nicely in relation to the body work.
I am truly amazed at the number of times the doors, bonnet and boot get put on and taken off during the repair process.
If there has been any doubt about any part of the metal not being in excellent shape it is cut out and replaced. Now I know what the big bucks cover.
I thought I would show some photo's before the paint went on.
Few more
And a couple more.
The bits hanging up are going to be interesting to find somewhere to put them.
I found these in the box that was delivered with the car and spent hours cleaning the old paint off them in the sand blasting cabinet.
I would imagine the paint had been on them for more than 50 years.
Ken
Cleaning and more cleaning.
I am amazed at how many parts need to be cleaned to make the job look half reasonable and also how long all this takes.
I have spent quite a bit of time just getting rid of the grease and grime off the bonnet(hood) hinges and locking mechanism.
Here is some photo's as usual.
By the way the body is all now prepped for painting and will get colour very very soon.
Stay tuned.
Ken
And a couple more of the bonnet catch.
Question!
Are these parts left in their natural state or are they covered with some sort of compound?
I know there was no paint on them just grease and road grime.
Ken
G'day Ken, THose bits were zinc plated. I get many of my bits (bolts brackets sheetmetal, )zinc plated here in Bris. There are a couple of companies I use. 57 used silver but some other models used gold.
Glad you got your missing part. Hats off to Marty. He sent me some extra parts and paid the extra $40 postage himself. He didn't ask to be reimbursed but of course I did and with enough change to buy a beer. Not many people do stuff like that these days. I will be making another list up of bits I need and supporting him.
Regards. Quentin.
Some Colour on the car at last.
If there is any interest here is some photo's of my Fleetwood being painted.(9 of them)
What this means is the panel work is finally completed and I am one step closer to the time that I have to work out where all the bits go. Oh what joy.
Perhaps someone who has already done this before would like to help me put the car together. I could provide the accommodation and the beer.
I have been told I make an excellent supervisor. LOL.
All the photo's were taken from outside of my mates paint booth. He would not let me inside.
The doors, boot and bonnet will be done tomorrow.
The colour is the same as the car was born with, Mountain Laurel which everyone knows is a real MANLY PINK.
Ken
Three More.
Last three.
Looking very nice, and I like it when another step closer has been completed.
Bruce. >:D
I love this thread, super work Ken!
I'm pretty sure of bonnet catch being zinc plated (silver) as Quentin Hall Australia states. Hood hinges though I believe only were zinc plated on the eldos in 1957. (Correct me if I'm wrong!) I would have plated them anyway but that's me.
And hey, Mountain Laurel pink is a great Cadillac color. Never heard any cool songs about my "Brown Cadillac" :)
J Kjerrulf
Ken - what a great job ! This car is going to be beautiful . Keep the pictures coming . I know how much work it is to document the progress in stages as you are doing , but it will be worth it when you have a complete photo album . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Bruce,
Yes one step closer thanks to my painter mate. Without him the car would not be so good looking. He has done a wonderfull job. The doors, boot, bonnet and guards go back on tomorrow. I then should have some more photo's to post.
Jan,
Thanks for your input and your enjoyment of my thread. I have done a search and cannot find any songs about a "Brown Cadillac". Sorry.
Paul,
Thanks for your kind words and encouragement.
Talk about getting parts "just in time".
I ordered a HTR BLOWER MOTOR PLENUM RUBBER DUCT BOOT from the US and it arrived today.
I needed to fit this part prior to the left hand front guard going on and I was able to do that today.
I love it when a plan comes together.
Busy day assembling the body tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Ken
What a full day
Worked until the job was done.
My mate Matt is a bit of a slave driver and here's me I am supposed to be retired.
All the doors, bonnet, boot and front guards are back on and once it was all done the car got it's final rust proofing.
All that is needed now it a last buff and then it's the dreaded part.
Where do all the bits go.
Here is the first three photo's of the process. There is six in all.
Ken
Next three.
As you can see the painter is a stickler for gaps and lines which is great for me.
He has done a really professionable job as far as I am concerned.
I am very happy with the body.
Ken
Ken, you are more or less at the end of the tunnel; the fun (and sometimes frustrating) job will begin with the assembly of a great number of parts!
Roger
Roger,
Being at the end of the tunnel is fine but now I have to decide which way to go.
I know it will be frustrating but I am not sure where the fun part comes into it.
Ken
My car is now home and in my shed, well at least for a short time.
I have finally sold my house and will make a move with the Caddy and all it's bits and pieces, that are spread all over my shed, in the next couple of weeks to our other place.
Hopefully she will not have to have any more rides home on the back of a tilt bed truck in the rest of her revamped life. See photo 2932.
The move will take up my time for a while and then I will get back to the enjoyable work.
Ken
Great news on all counts, and boy, they look like they would be good off-roaders with the rear brightwork out of the way.
Bruce. >:D
I don't think so Bruce.
I may go through a puddle at some stage if I cannot avoid it, but it will be slowly and she will never go OFF ROAD.
Ken
Great work Ken!
From the 'I never knew that' Dept... I thought the 57 Fleetwood rear stainless was a skirt over the quarter/wheel arch not the actual piece of body itself!
Car will be the Dogs B*llocks when it's done!
What colour grille are you going with?
Best,
Stew
Hi Stew,
Many thanks for your comments.
Just about everything I am doing on this car I can start off by saying, I never knew that. I know exactly how you feel.
I must admit I have not given any thought to the grill as yet.
I have provided a couple of photo's to show what the grill looked like when I received it. The condition has not changed yet.
I am not sure what the pieces are made of and if they need to be polished or anodised. I am not sure of your question relating to colour?
Hopefully someone who knows better than I will chime in.
The stainless steel skirts are all polished up and look great. I still have them wrapped at the moment hence no photo.
Ken
After many frustrating hours of wire continuity checking and finding many breaks and open circuits I have decided enough is enough and it's time to do the thing I should have done in the first place. Get a new Loom.
I am now in the process of getting a new wiring loom made and I need to know what the four lights in the lower part of the front bumper are for.
I would imagine the outside ones are for the front indicators and the inside two are the front park lights.
If this is correct I will know how to get them to work.
If a couple are for fog lights where is the switch to operate them?
As you all may know none of the wiring was connected when the vehicle came into my possession.
Ken
Ken, do you have the option "fog lamps"?
Roger
Hi Roger,
That is a good question.
The short answer is I do not know.
Are the lights normally just indicators and park.
If there is a fog lamp option where would the switch be?
Ken
It's so easy to know! At the light switch, you have the knob you can pull to activate the lights. If you have the fog light option, there is a small rotating lever behind the main knob. I'm attaching a picture of the light switch from my Brougham; yours is very similar. Sorry for the bad angle, but you can see on the picture a small lever (half hidden by the sheet metal) under the main knob, this is for the fog lights.
Once you have determine what you have, I can tell what is what in front of your car.
Another help: if you have lenses in glass (yes, real glass) for the turn indicator and parking light, you have the fog option. If you have plastic lenses, no fog.
Roger
Roger,
I have located the light switch which had been taken apart. There doesn't appear to be a small lever for the fog lamps but perhaps I have just not found it yet.
However the four lenses are made of glass.
Ken
Have a good look at your light switch. If it has the extension added to the main switch, this is for the fog lamps. Indded, your switch should look exactly like mine.
Have a look also at the bulb sockets behing those glas lenses. If you have the fog option, you will have a socket for those bulbs at two locations (one right, 1 left).
Roger
Roger,
Thanks again for the reply.
I am still not quite sure what I have.
I will strip the lights to check what sort of globes I have. I will take a photo of everything I have to help you to help me.
My old computer has died and I have just replaced it and still have to load in some photo editing program.
I will get back to you soon.
Ken
Here are the photo's I promised.
52984 Shows what parts I have.
52985 Shows the order I think they go in.
52986 What is this part for? It looks like the lever needed for the fog lamps but there is no way it will fit with the Head Light switch.
Ken
The last picture is the outside rear view mirror knob. I don't see the fog lamp switch or knob in your parts.
David
I agree, having taken apart 7 different 58 Cadillacs (very very very similiar parts) I dont see any of the fog light parts with your headlamp switch. Many times the glass lenses were simply switched when the plastic ones cracked.
I have also the impression that you don't have the fog lamps.
In front, you have you have parking and directional bulbs at the outer lamps. The inner lamps have just the parking lights.
Roger
Hi Guys,
Many thanks for the responses.
Here is a couple of photo's of the globes I have in the lamps.
2991 is the left outer.
2995 is the left inner.
They both have double filaments and 2991 has a small shield on the top.
Ken
ps David , Thanks for the heads up on the mirror knob.
The bulbs you have are definitively "fogbulbs". For 1957, the car equiped with fog lamps have 4 1074 bulbs (35W /4 C.P). The outer ones are for signal and parking lamps, the inner ones are for fog and parking lamps. You have to be very careful when you install them, they are difficult to install due to the 3-pins system. When one is broken, they can be found, but are expensive. I was lucky to buy original ones from both types (1044 & 1074); there are reproduced ones on the market wich are not correct.
This will explain why you have glass lenses in front. The question now is: what would be replace? the front lamps or, more probably, the light switch?
Please do another picture of your switch, especially the part contacting the dashboard. I just see the metal, with a picture taken at another angle I could see if you have the fog switch or not. The rear part of the light switch is common to all cars, just the front is different.
Roger many thanks for your patients regarding this fog lamp.
I have gone ahead and had the wiring included for the fog lights in the new loom.
Photo 3039 shows the switch from a different angle.
Photo 2985 copy shows three parts that I have numbered in order of assembly.
Photo 3035 shows the three parts fitted together and they appear to fit well.
Hope this is what you are after.
Regards
Ken
If you look at the picture 3039, you have one blue wire coming out of a switch. There are 2 other terminals wich are empty; the switch is for the fog lamps. Look at the circuit diagram in the shop manual: the blue wire go the the main black headlamp switch; you have to connect a natural wire for the park lamps and a violet wire for the fog lamps.
It just seems that you are missing the small lever to activate the fog switch. With the complete headlamp switch removed from car, you can determine how the fog switch is activate; it a rotating movement.
Roger
Roger,
Thanks very much for your help again my friend.
I now know what part I am missing and how it all works.
I will need to search for this small lever. I am quite sure I do not have it amongst all the other bits and pieces I have so it looks like eBay may be my next port of call.
If anyone reading this has the part I need please feel free to make contact.
Ken
Hi All,
As I explained previously I was having a lot of problems with the old wiring loom with breaks, open circuits and grounded out wires so I went ahead and organized a new loom with correct colors of all the wires.
I have gone ahead and installed the loom into a bare shell of a car. Photo's supplied.
I am not too sure what goes next.
The biggest problem I can foresee is I put a lot of time and effort into reassembly and then find out I have to undo some of that work because I have done it in the wrong order.
What I am after is some knowledge from someone who has "Been there done that".
I would really appreciate some help here.
Pick any part of the car and let me know how it should be done. Explain it as basic as you like.
As an example lets start off with the doors.
Here is the bits I know that need to go into it. Feel free to point out if I have missed anything.
In no particular order:
Wiring.
Window guides.
Inner door handles.
Outer door handles.
Electric window mechanism.
Glass.
Heater Duct.
Door seals or rubbers.
Stainless steel trim.
Catches and Latches.
Connecting rods.
Number the items in an order that would be acceptable and don't forget to include the items I have left out.
It would be really great if I did not have too many pieces left over after the rebuild is completed..
When I look at the dash I think about how it would have come to pieces in the first place.
As those that have followed my rebuild would know I did not strip the vehicle. The bits and pieces came in a big box.
What goes first?
Lower dash.
Steering column.
Upper dash.
Heater hoses.
Cables such as air con and speedo.
Duct work.
And many more parts.
Pick your area of knowledge and please share.
I will record all of the advise and use it.
Kind regards
Ken Francis
Come on Guys,
Lots of lookers but no comments.
PM me if you like with hints and tips.
Try and prevent some of the errors that I am bound to make.
Regards
Ken
I'll take a stab at it... I've autopsied my car enough times.
First of all, in what order did you take it apart?
I'd probably start with the wiring and its grommets. Then the duct work, outer door hardware, window REGULATORS, inner door hardware, stainless/chrome trim, gaskets and then glass and electrical accessories. I cracked a window while I was messing around in the door. Had I removed it, it would have been fine.
Make sure you are happy with the paint first. Do all the wet sanding and polishing before bothering to put anything back on.
You may want to test all the electrical components before final assembly. The radio is not fun to install in a '57 when the whole car is back together.
Walter,
Many thanks for your input.
When I purchased the vehicle all the door components had already been removed and everything was lying loosely in the bottom of the door wells so unfortunately I do not know the take apart order.
I have tested all the electric windows but to avoid them only working for a short time I have decided to strip them, clean them up and replace brushes etc.
I did not think of making the glass instillation one of the last tasks. This is why I have asked the question.
I will take a lot of care with the glass when it is time to fit the windows.
Thanks for the tip.
Ken
Ken
Ken, I saw your question long ago but cannot answer it because I should see physically the parts. At a distance things are either very easy of completely obscure!
Try to imagine the function of the parts you have; maybe you can figure if this part should be installed before that one.
Walter gave a good road map; I would add: install first all the exterior trim parts, especially at the doors, before you begin to install window lifters; then all parts needed to open the doors from inside....
Good luck!
Roger
Roger,
Your advise, as always, is well received.
I will work my way through it and hopefully not make too many errors.
As usual I am currently waiting on some parts to arrive.
I will show more progress photo's soon.
Ken
I thought I would share my experiences with the front door seals on my car which may help someone else with the same car.
I ordered new seals through Rubber the Right Way and the part came from Steele Rubber. Part number is 70-0805-72 - NORMAL
The part did not fit. If I lined the holes up as in photo 3218 the top end did not reach where it was supposed to go as in photo 3217.
Apparently there was two different seals made for this one year only car. Go figure. I needed part number 70-0805-72 - SPECIAL. See attached Schematic.
Hope this helps someone.
Both Rubber the Right Way and Steele Rubber worked through my problem with me and found the solution. Their help was excellent and they covered all associated costs including postage to Australia.
Ken
I am cleaning up the wiper/washer switch and want to make sure I am putting it back correctly.
Please check out photo 0982 and let me know if I am correct.
I am not real sure if the order of item number 3 and 4 is right.
Item 3 is soft and 4 is a hard disc.
Ken
Ken, if you look well at your picture, you will notice that the rubber disc (#3) had the inprint of the #5. Therefore, the order is wrong for items 3 and 4. A more logical approach: the spring must not push of a soft surface but on a hard one; the vacuum circuit cannot be closed by a hard disc but with a soft one. Very logical!
Roger,
I agree totally. That is why I posted this.
The order that I have laid the pieces out is the order they were in when I stripped it down.
Obviously someone else had pulled it to pieces in the past and got it wrong.
It always pays to check.
I am sure this little exercise will assist someone else along the way.
That is what this forum is all about.
Once again Roger, many thanks.
Ken
Polishing and more polishing. What a great job that is.
Here is a couple of photo's with me at work with the polishing cloth and a beer or is that a couple of beers and a bit of polishing.
More work to go. A lot more.
Ken
Please check out the next post.
There is no way I could use the 1/4 vent windows in their current condition so I had to strip them for repair.
I have got new seals for this window but there is one small part I do not have.
Please check out the photo's.
Who supplies this bit?
Ken
Steele Rubber or Rubber the right way, your choice! This will be anyway a product of Steele Rubber...
Ken,
Coupla Crownies beats elbow grease any day!
Hey John,
It sure does.
In fact I think it helps.
Ken
More polishing. Now what do I do with these bits.
The pieces were really grubby to start with and they didn't clean up too badly.
I have no idea where they go.
Can someone help out with a location description or even better, explain with a photo.
Ken
Any one know where these pieces fit?
Come on Roger, you must know where these bits go!
Ken
Well, I'm afraid, I don't know. On the first picture, one part was dirty. Was that grease/road dirt or engine compartment dirt? Are the parts chromed or stainless steel?
Can I have a picture from the section?
Did you buy the car complete and remove all the parts yourself or did you buy it already more or less "naked" with parts in boxes?
I have the impression that the parts does not belong to your car, but I could be wrong...
Hi Roger,
Thanks for the quick reply.
The dirty parts wiped off fairly easily. I think it was road grime but am not real sure.
The parts are stainless steel.
If you remember I got the car partly naked with these parts in the big box that came with the car.
I have provided a couple of more photo's for you.
I have circled the pieces in red to show the section that had been polished in the past.
Perhaps you are correct and the pieces do not belong with the car.
I wonder how many spare bits I will end up with.
Ken
I don't have a sedan, but I think they might be part of the rain gutter that runs from the windshield to the back window just above the doors. That profile looks the same as the stationary window moldings on the rear quarter windows of a coupe. It should screw into the roof from below. It should also have some sort of weatherstrip like the fuzzy mohair-covered strip.
I'd guess that piece goes right above the front door vent window.
Actually, I now think they may go on facing the INTERIOR of the car at the corner of the windshield and vent window. That taper on the end looks like it should fit against the interior windshield molding.
Unfortunately, I still don't know. My '57 Brougham is totally different than your Fleetwood; however, most of the parts still have a "family" look. The parts you have don't look like something I know.
Hello Ken,
Just a guess but it might be the part in the attached picture
Joe
Hi Guys,
Stop looking.
I have found where the bits fit on my car.
They go between the end of the side skirt just before the rear bumper.
Couple of photos show where they belong.
Ken
In that case Kent, I was wrong: the parts belong really to your car! I'm glad you found the right place.
No wonder I couldn't identify them. They are a 60 S part only.
Roger and Walter,
Many thanks for your replies.
You may not have been successful this time but with the number of correct hits you two get, who cares!
Regards
Ken
I read an article relating to the vacuum block/valve mounted next to the wiper motor on the firewall and thought it was a great article.
When I got to checking out my valve I found mine was the same as what was described in the article, No Good. Photo 0996. Need a bit of work here to get it operating.
Since my last post I have been doing plenty of work, including more polishing and chroming. The small spears on the stainless panel are held in with rivets.
To aid in the cleaning I have pulled them to pieces, will have the chrome bits re-chromed and polish the rest. I will put it all back together using screws so that it all could be disassembled again a lot easier if the need arises. Photo 0726.
The next photo 0604 is just a little sneak preview of my work.
Ken
4b316
Here is a picture of the switch I am after.
Also provided a photo of the grill sections.
Ken
The switch shouldn't be impossible. The single switches are interchangeable with the rear seat switches. Just pop it in the housing! Plus, they are the same for all GM cars. The main gang switch on the driver's side is the problem. If the passenger window isn't working, the problem could be in the main switch.
The grille pieces--good luck, unless you find spares of the bigger slats and trim them down.
Walter.
Member 4b316 is trying to organise these parts for me.
I was just showing him some pictures of what I was after.
Many thanks for your input and help.
Ken
How good is this. I can see the light.
I connected a battery for the first time and no Zaps or Smoke.
I must be doing something right.
I opened a door and the interior light came on and when I closed the door the light went out.
I know this is what is supposed to happen but it is a great feeling when it works the way it should.
I won't carry on too much yet. There is still quite a few more things to hook up.
Ken
Hi Guys,
Here is a picture of the top of the steering column.
In relation to the indicators/trafficators can someone tell me or show me what is missing.
Ken
One small tube with "ears" is missing. This tube has also a finger which goes into the steering wheel. The purpose of it is to cancell the indicator lights when the steering wheel is turning back.
See the page 5-22 from the '57 shop manual, the tube is calles "spacer".
Hi Ken, Grant here from the land further down under , if you have no luck with the Grille bit let me know I might still have some old Grille bits. A short while ago I sent some 57 & a lot of 59 Grills to the scrap metal buyers. I do however plan on making brand new 57 Grills some time this year.
Thanks Roger.
Another piece identified.Only one thousand more to go.
My steering wheel is getting rebuilt in New Zealand at the moment so I will have to wait and see how that spacer fits in.
Here is the part you are talking about I think.
Hi Grant, Many thanks for the reply.
Another kind gentleman from the CLC has got the switch and the grill piece on their way to me.
I am still missing the clips that hold it all together. Here is a picture.
Besides these clips I think there is also some other mounting brackets or gizmos but I do not have any. Can you help out?
Ken
Yes Ken, it's the part on the first picture. One less to search!
The bottom photo is the grille clips. I'm pretty sure they were used only on '57 Cadillacs (surprise). They aren't totally necessary but having the screws in the bumper bar is. You don't want to see empty holes with the hood open.
I never found a source for them.
My steering wheel was in a poor condition with more than 200 cracks in it. See photo 338, 340 and 341.
Ken
I sent the wheel off to a bloke in New Zealand and he did a pretty good job with it for $550.
See photo 628, 607 and 613.
When it comes time to fitting the steering wheel I know it will look good.
Ken
Ken, nice steering wheel! The wheel from my '56 Biarritz was worse; I let it recast in the USA. When I wanted to install it, there were some intereferences with the horn ring. As the plastic was tinted and not painted, I could remove excess material and polish it. You may have the same problem, maybe not.
Ken - look at eBay # 160752206506 for your window switch . ..Paul Tesone ..CLC #6876
Thanks Paul,
A very kind member from this Forum sent me one along with a couple of grille pieces and at no cost to me.
How good was that?
There is some nice people in this world and it is great to see that some of them frequent this site.
Thanks for your help.
Ken
Have just installed the trunk opener/closer and have a slight problem.
When I operate the switch in the glove box, the solenoid in the trunk works, the trunk light on the dash illuminates and the trunk motor does it's thing. All good so far.
The trunk opens enough to lift the lid however there is a clicking noise and this continues until I manually lift the trunk lid.
When I lower the trunk lid onto the striker, the motor drags the lid down into the closed position as it should.
There does not appear to be very much adjustment possible.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Regards
Ken
I don’t remember all the details of this system, but my thought is that the switch that activates the pull down cycle is too high. What is happening is that when the lid is released it pops up a little and the pull down unit drives to the open position as it should, but as it reaches a point near the full up position it hits the latch on the lid and starts the down cycle. The lid does not follow it down so the switch is released and the unit goes back to the up cycle. This continues until the lid is moved up out of range of the up cycle.
I don’t think the down switch should operate until the latch on the lid is down far enough to clamp on the lower section.
HTH
I had the same issue with mine. I finally readjusted the torque rods so that, when you pushed the button and the lid released, it had a little more spring to open it that initial inch. Doing this also lessens the possibility of damaging the motor as you'll have to use a bit more pressure to close the lid. It won't slam down on the mechanism.
The other thing was the new gasket. If you don't want to try adjusting the rods, wipe the trunk gasket with silicone and see if that helps.
Bit more of an update in relation to what I have been up to with the car.
Replaced all the door glass Photo 0879.
Fitted the rear door windows and door handles. Photo 0778 and 0788.
Naturally I stripped all the electric motors before installing them. They only needed a bit of a clean up of the commutator. Even the brushes were in great shape. I do not believe the motors have been stripped down before.
When I tested the windows after installing them everything worked as it should. Great news.
Ken, I'm not sure of the procedure with your model, but usually, the exterior mouldings and beltline weatherstrips are installed before the side windows.
After all the hours I had spent polishing things there was still a lot more to go.
There is a stainless steel trim panel fitted to the rear doors that match up with the large trim covering the rear wheel arch. I believe a one year only thing. (again).
Photo 712 shows what it looked like to start with.
The only way to clean them up properly was to strip them first. Photo 722.
This meant grinding all the rivets off. Photo 0022.
More to follow.
Then there was a lot more polishing. Photo 736.
I then drilled and tapped each of the individual spears to aid in reassembly. Photo 0024.
Photo 0045 shows the panel at the beginning and the end.
Roger, I did see your question as I was still typing. I am not real quick.
All I can say is " Oh I hope not".
I did not remove the mouldings or the weather strips. They were already out before I got the car. I did take the windows out, that is why I have put them back in first.
All I can say is time will tell. If I have to remove something I have just installed imagine how much experience I am getting.
At least I have having fun.
Ken
Sorry, Ken, but the moldings go on a LOT easier without the windows in the car.
You can loosen the mechanisms enough so they drop down in the doors and you can get the moldings on. You'll have to readjust the windows when you're done.
Walter and Roger,
Oh what joy. Install something and then take it off.
I Love This Car.
These things are sent to try us, that's for sure.
Ken
Windows In then Windows Out. Oh what fun this is.
Roger and Walter were correct again but that is no surprise. It is great to see the knowledge that is available to us mere mortals on this site.
I had to remove the windows completely to enable me to fit the top door moulding. I tried to lower the window frame after disconnecting the window lift assembly but this still did not give me enough room to fit the three screws.
Any way another job is done. It is getting closer to the end although still a ways to go. Photo 243.
I also finally worked out the correct wiring to get the fog lights to work. The purple wire was hiding from me. Photo 230.
The light switch works and the fog lights show power at both ends of the wire when I twist the plastic part as seen in photo 233.
I would imagine I am missing a small part. Perhaps a chrome circle/lever thing with a flat spot on it.
Can someone show me a photo.
Ken
Yes Ken, you are missing the small lever to operate the fog lamps. The sole picture I have is attached, you can see the lever, however, not so well.
Thanks Roger,
I do not appear to have the missing lever.
Can anyone help out here a provide one.
Ken
A while ago I sent my Carter Carby off to Daytona Parts Company for an overhaul.
If it performs half as good as it looks I am on a winner.
It will be a shame to have to cover it up with the air cleaner.
Ken
During the winter, I sent both carbs from my Brougham to the same company. As it was too cold to run the engine, I'm just wondering how they will perform; the answer in the next 3 wekks!
Only time will tell Steven. Hopefully all will be good.
Thanks for the warning. I will keep an eye on it.
Good luck with yours Roger.
We are lucky we do not have to wait for any particular time of the year to start the engine. Where I live I can wear shorts all year round.
Ken
I have been a bit slack putting an update on here but I will get to it shortly.
Can someone explain how the front number plate bumper thing mounts to the front bumper. As you can see I am using very technical terms.
Once again I did not take it off.
Is there a mounting bracket or something missing?
Ken
Here is a few more photo's for those that have been watching my work.
Photo 0188. Been putting a few extra bits in the engine bay.
Photo 0198. Found a few spots to put some vacuum hoses with a bit of help from members on this web site.
Photo 0218. This is one heavy front bumper. It needed me, my wife and one of my sons and the help of a trolley jack to get it in to place.
I reckon the front end is looking great.
I had a bit of trouble getting the top of the dash in place due to the fact I have fitted factory air conditioning. There is a long duct system that mounts under the dash top and does not allow the two pieces to marry together with the lower part of the dash in place. It all sounds a bit strange but anyway I removed the lower dash and will join the two pieces together at the same time as replacing the new vinyl top on the dash pad.
Not much extra work really. Just disconnected the 37 wires that I took hours to put in place before. No big deal.
It is all fun- I THINK!
Ken
The plate surround is bolted directly to bumper using 4 spire or j nuts which slot over the elongated holes on surround ,assuming the 4 internal brackets are still in place, and bolted using 5/16 unc bolts
Chris, Many thanks for the photo of the J nuts.
Bracket is now mounted but there is still yet another problem.
Photo 0251 shows bracket mounted.
Photo 0248 shows surround with number plate in place.
Photo 0255 shows the plate size of 12"x6" with the mounting holes circled in red.
The front plate will not get any where near the mounting holes in the bumper.
I purchased what our Registration Dept calls American Sized Plates.
My questions are.
Are my plates the correct American size?
Is the mounting holes in the correct place or do I have to drill more?
Ken
Another photo of the front surround is 0260.
Photo 0258 shows the rear plate will line up fine with the top two holes which are the only ones in the plate.
Ken
Why don't you do a little support which can be aligned with the holes from the bumper and screwing the license plate to that frame?
'57 was the first year for the anodized aluminum filler plate (another '57 Cadillac ONLY part). You had to remove the "U" license surround to get that plate off. The bumper is designed to accept the gold anodized license frame that bolted to the lower section of the bumper then the plate was screwed into the backing plate of the license frame.
Hi Ken,
Attached a picture showing the screw position on my 57 CDV. I don't know if this is as original but it works.
As the screws were on the white part of the plate i used the white plastic type. You may need to enlarge the pic to see it properly.
HTH
Joe
Thanks for the replies,
It appears the number plates I have are the correct size.
I will have to make up a support bracket and use the existing holes as Roger suggested OR make new holes to suit what Joe has.
I will give it some thought for a while.
Still plenty to do.
Ken
Ken
Have you checked out the for sale section, there are some license plate holders for sale that ma be of interest to you.
Regards
Joe
Thanks for the lead Joe.
I have managed to find the one shown in the two photo's here.
I will see if I can repair it so it will be good enough to use.
Ken
Few more photos to show what I have been up to.
Every time I connected the battery the horn would sound. Finally figured out why. The horn power passes through the Neutral Start Switch and mine was broken. Photo 40717. Need another one.
Had a lot of trouble getting the front lights in the bumper to work. Ended up putting an extra wire to earth in each of the four. Now good. Photo 40708.
New tyres arrived and now fitted. They are Diamondbacks with a 3 and 1/2" wide white wall. Photo 40731.
Pulled the drum clock to pieces and was amazed how nice it was inside.
The electric coil was fine but the clock did not work.
All it needed was a strip down, clean and lubricate.
Now works fine. Takes a little power to kick start it then runs down mechanically then cops another bolt of power.All good.
Photo.40471.
Can someone confirm if I have installed the door cup brackets correctly. It appears that the rear ones should possibly go the other way around.
Photos 40701 and 40700.
Ken
Looks like you've been having fun!
The neutral switch--if you have the pieces, you can epoxy it back together. I did that with mine until I found a replacement. If you had the steering column disconnected from the box and spun the wheel, there is a hole in the bottom of the steering shaft that allows the horn contact to fall down too far. When the wheel is turned past the hole, the switch breaks at the horn contact. Take the switch out BEFORE you do any work on the steering column. (This happened to me as well.)
Drum clock: lucky you still have one. They need considerably more power from the mechanism to spin the drum than a regular clock. Plus, the drum shakes around on rough roads. Pretty sure those are all Westclox movements. I had 2 Westclox burn up the winding coils with no warning. Make sure you disconnect the clock or battery when not in use. Most of the drum clocks were replaced with the regular style.
Door brackets look fine. The cup screws go from the top so they look like they're on correctly. No idea about the rears as mine is a coupe.
The whole car looks GREAT! Too bad we can't get yours and mine together for a photo shoot.
Lovely car, I painted my 59 El Camino Mary Kay pink, most folks don't get it.
Thanks for the comments guys.
I will show another couple of photos of the door cup brackets.
I agree with Walter about the front ones being correct but I think the rear ones must mount upside down or not.
Have a look at the circled part. The front and rear show the opposite.
After reading what I just wrote it all sounds as clear as mud. Perhaps the pictures will help someone.
Ken
The bottom photo has to have the bracket turned over. No way you're going to get a screw in that way.
I reversed the positions of the brackets today and that looks better although they are now opposite to what the front ones are.
I fitted the electric six way seat frame/assembly and connected it up and have ended with a problem.
Fitted 3 gang switch
Motor works
Solenoids work
Jack Screws turn but no seat movement.
Can someone tell me about the seat gear box. How does it work?
Ken
I love this car. Ha Ha
Went through the wiring diagram again. Swapped the green wire for the blue. ie. the rear solenoid for the middle one and it goes up/down, forward/back and tilts.
Charging the battery before any further testing with the switch connected. Just used a jumper wire at this stage. Hopefully all will be good.
It is amazing how much can be learnt by doing the work yourself. At least I should know the car inside out by the time I am finished.
Ken
I know I have asked about the steering column before in relation to the indicators.
Roger pointed out that I was missing a spacer which I have since obtained.
I cannot see how the plate that I have numbered 1. in the attached photo works.
If I move the plate in either direction shown with the red arrow, what brings it back. I cannot see that the spacer will come in contact with it unless there is still something missing.
Any input would be helpful.
Ken
By looking quickly at your picture, a spring on the right is missing. The spring allows to keep the lever either for a LH turn, a RH one or nothing.
Thanks Roger.
I presumed it would be something along that line.
Do you, or anyone, have a photo showing what kind of spring and where it sits?
Ken
It sits where your red arrow is; it extends to both posts you can see in your picture. Sorry, I don't have a picture of that, nor a spare spring...
Once again Roger, thanks.
I have altered my picture and the only way I can see a spring working, if it is only a single spring, is like I have shown.
Am I anywhere near the mark.
Ken
Totally correct! You just have to find one...They were used during many years, it should not be difficult to find. Or, you have it in one of your box; have a look there first!
Recently, a French guy asked me for a '58 bezel for the seat switch. I found one, not especially nice but not cheap. The man found later that missing part in one of his box...
Thanks mate.
I will have to find one somewhere.
I do not have one in my box of goodies. I have already made a good search.
Thanks for the suggestion though.
Ken
G'day Ken,
I believe the spring is made of flat steel, say 3/16" wide, and the roller moves over a hump in the spring.
The picture is of a '60 Column, and the spring is in place.
Bruce. >:D
Ken,
I have the spring you need. It's yours for the shipping price. Shipping from Buffalo NY to Australia thru USPS First Class International is $10. Hope this helps. The spring is still in good shape and has tension. Just some minor surface rust from sitting. Frank
Bruce,
Thanks for pointing out what I need.
Thanks Frank,
That's very decent of you.
The brake push rod clip I got off you a while back is still looking good.
I will make a paypal payment to you. Just confirm your email so I don't pay the wrong person.
I have it from our last transaction in Sep 2010 if it hasn't changed.
I also need a Neutral Start Switch if you have one lying around.
Regards
Ken
Ken,
I have a neutral safety switch. There are some small chips in the plastic, but no cracks or broken pieces. It does have continuity in both positions. According to the master parts book this switch fits 1956-1959 Caddys except for 1959 with cruise control. I'm asking $75 for the switch, so if you want it the total with shipping is $85. If you want, I can email you a picture to you personal email. I have trouble trying to post on the message forum.I am not computer literate enough to figure out picture sizing. My email is fpuma49@verizon.net Frank
Frank,
Thank you.
PM and payment sent.
Ken
Firstly, Many thanks to all those who are keeping tabs on what I am doing with my rebuild. I have enjoyed the comments and help. There has been more than 13000 views so far.
It was quite a while ago when I finished overhauling my engine which is original. I had it bored out .040" and replaced everything with new bits and pieces.
I did as much of the work myself that I could, except for the machining.
I have been working on many other areas of the car over the past few months and decided now is the time to fire the engine up and confirm I have done things correctly.
I filled the engine and trans with oil after finding out what a quart of oil is. 1 quart = 0.946353 litres and charged the battery.
I have an electric fuel pump to prime the carby after cleaning out the new fuel line that I made a year ago. A mud wasp set up home in it.
I cranked the engine and it fired up immediately and I thought well how about that. It run beautifully on seven cylinders. We all know it has to have EIGHT TO BE GREAT so what happened to the other one.
You do what you have to do to find out what has gone wrong. Recheck everything that has already been checked. Points, plugs, timing, leads, cap etc etc.
Used a bit of Inox spray around the carby and everywhere else looking for a vacuum leak. The engine would run better on full choke.
The problem ended up being a leak at the front of the inlet manifold near the number 2 piston.
Took the manifold off, ordered new gaskets that should be here quite soon. They are coming from within Australia.
Not sure why the gasket failed in the first place. Everything was tightened properly. All surfaces are true and flat.
Perhaps the American parts I purchased were some sort of poor quality imports although I did insist to the supplier I wanted USA made parts after all I am working on an American made car.
Anyway these little set backs are meant to try us so it's still time to keep working.
As I have said before I love this car and I am still having fun.
Ken
Ken, I would recheck if the intake manifold is really following the heads. I had the same problem with my '56 Biarritz, only when it was hot. The manifold was slightly warped, I had the impression that I had done a good job prior to installation by correcting the shape but, apparently it was not good enough. Use a feeler gauge; if you have more than .2 mm in one spot, a correction is needed. Also use a sealer on the gasket, it can help.
I have fitted the battery tray that came with the car.
There is two locations on the tray that accept a couple of rods that are threaded at one end.
The rods are of different lengths and shape.
I have found a picture on the net. I hope the gentleman does not mind me using it for reference.
I need to make the top hold down as mine is missing.
My question is why are the rods different length and shape. The short one would not reach unless I make a drop down eyelet in the hold down.
I can't see why it is like this.
Any assistance please would be appreciated.
Ken
Roger, you were correct again. Go to the top of the class.
Even though the surfaces on the inlet manifold were true and flat the angle was not quite right to follow the head.
After a bit of machining the machine shop guy got it right on.
I put the manifold back using sealant and tightening the bolts in a slow progressive pattern and checked everything with a feeler gauge.
I let the engine stand overnight to let the sealant work it's magic and then cranked the engine. It started up immediately and ran very smooth.
Finally happy with that part of the job.
Now onto the next bit.
My Son's Formal(Prom) is getting closer and time is starting to run out.
When I got my rebuilt engine back from the shop, it was stressed to break in the cam when the engine was first run. So for the first 15 minutes or so, the engine was run at 1500 to 2500 rpm to make sure the cam worn in right.
Just a pointer if have not done that procedure yet.
You have done such a fine job so far, keep it going.
Regards
David
Quote from: 57flw on October 18, 2012, 07:29:05 PM
Roger, you were correct again. Go to the top of the class.
Ken, I'm glad that my own experience could help somebody else! By the way, I corrected the manifold myself with a very large file...
David,
Many thanks for your input and kind words.
Did all the right things to bed the cam and everything else in.
I will keep going.
Ken
FINISHED
Three years later and a lot of money.
From this to this.
Will put more photos up later.
Ken
Fantastic looking car ken.
I wish you many years of happy, trouble free motoring in her.
Also thanks for showing so much detail in your posts, they have helped me along the way with my 57 CDV.
Joe Hunt
ONLY 3 YEARS?!?! I'll have my '57 CDV 20 years in April and I'll never consider it "done"!
Great work! Now comes the hard part--keeping it looking as it does right now.
I have done a few short runs in my newly refurbished car and it has performed well with no issues.
I took it on a round trip today of 354 miles and ended up with a fuel consumption of 18.6 miles per gallon with a maximum speed of 70MPH.
The car rode beautifully and responded very well.
I enjoyed getting into the overtaking lanes and putting my foot down to get around the Semi Trailers.
I must have done something right.
Hopefully many more happy days of cruising to come.
I think I am now in an extra 105 more family photo albums.
Ken
What an amazing job you've done.
how much did it cost for the exhaust
Quote from: 57flw on October 23, 2009, 06:04:42 AM
Just a bit more of an update of what I have been up to.
Chassis sand blasted and primed.
I have organised the following new bits and pieces.
New headliner made and on its way.
New Heavy Duty Springs.
New exhaust system.
New hood pad.
New Deluxe front end kit.
New Shock absorbers.
New hub caps and medallions.
New hood crest and bezel.
Overhauled the following.
Starter Motor.
Hydrovac.
Wheel cylinders.
Working on the engine at the moment.
Currently trying to organise new Rubbers, grommets, seals etc for everywhere.
I have been using the big list of suppliers that Forrest, with the help of his friends, produced.
I have a friend who is bringing in a container to Australia out of Wilmington CA. and I have been lucky enough to be able to hitch a ride for my new goodies.
I can't believe how much everything costs. OOPS I forgot I answer my wife with, Not Much It Was a Bargain, whenever she asks.
Anyway I hope I can do all these purchases justice and turn this car from a sh**allac into a Cadillac.
More to come
Ken
David,
I purchased my Exhaust system on Ebay.
Seller is (klasskollection)
Contact is Gretchen D Kepich.
Mocksville NC 27028 USA
Purchase price US$340.00 plus US$60.00 postage to Wimington CA. to meet up with the container.
System worked out well.
Hope this helps.
Ken
Ken, I have a picture in my garage of your car.
I collect original ads from old magazines, and every time I walk by this ad I think of your car.
I have ads as far back as the late 30's. All sealed in plastic, for viewing.
Roy
Click on picture to make it bigger.
Hi Roy,
Thanks for thinking of me and my car.
I have seen this ad before, perhaps it was one of yours.
If the car had a white roof, the same as mine, I would definitely be interested in it.
Regards
Ken