'61 intake torque sequence

[MidModCad]

Want to get the proper torque sequence on my intake before grabbing a wrench, but there doesn't seem to be one in the manual.  Anybody know where there's a diagram available?  Also, do these engines require any sealer on the intake bolts?  Lastly, what gasket paste works the bast for the intake, and on one or both sides of the gasket?  Thanks, Caddy gurus.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

When there is no specialised sequence shown, even in the '59 Shop Manual or '60 Supplement, I always take it slowly, and start at a lower reading and then increase the pressure in about 3 steps till full torque, then l do another round after the gaskets have "settled".

Bruce.

[V63]

The rule of thumb is to start at the center and work your way outward. Gradually increase in 3 passes until specification is met. (1/3 1/3 1/3)

[MidModCad]

Sounds like a good rule.  Anyone have a take on the sealer question?  And which sides of gasket?

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Sorry about that, as I forgot to mention it.

The Shop Manual states "Apply a coat of Gasket Paste to both sides of manifold gaskets".

I sometimes use a smear of RVT, or in my case, Loctite 5900.

Bruce.

[MidModCad]

So no need for sealer on the bolts?

[Daryl Chesterman]

My father used to say to torque in a circular pattern when there is no diagram for the torque sequence, and as V63 said 1/3 of torque value for each sequence.  You probably should run a tap in each threaded hole to make sure they are clean and all of the bolts will torque equally.  So if your final torque is 30 ft.-lbs., it would be in 10 ft.-lb. increments.  After the motor is ready to drive, take it for a drive to get it thoroughly warmed up and retorque the intake bolts again after the engine has cooled down and the gaskets have settled into place.
There is no need for sealer on the bolts unless they go into the water jacket.  Most torque values are stipulated as lightly oiled threads.

Daryl Chesterman

[MidModCad]

Thanks, Daryl.  There are so many opinions on oiling the threads and the effect on torque value, but as you say, lightly oiled seems best.  Do you think I should do the same for that one pesky head bolt attaching the AC bracket over the valve cover?

[Daryl Chesterman]

I am uncertain as to your question:  "Do you think I should do the same for that one pesky head bolt attaching the AC bracket over the valve cover?"  If you have already torqued the head bolts, what is the problem with the one holding the A/C bracket?

Daryl Chesterman

[MidModCad]

To remove the right valve cover on a '61 with AC you have to remove the AC bracket which shares one head bolt that has to be removed. When I re-install that bolt should it be lightly oiled or dry?  Full disclosure - I'm a total rookie with head bolts.

[fishnjim]

There is a difference between "wet" and dry torque values, but for this I'd not worry about it.   You've got all the right info from these guys, so nothing to add.   
A/C bracket bolt should be treated like all the rest.   This was a common Cadillac practice to attach stuff just have to make sure you have the right length bolts, so the threads are engaged.   Some of the old bolts are made on the 1/4"s and no longer available that way stock grade 5.   Need to buy special.
Generally, I don't put gasket sealer on the intake unless gasket needs to stay in place and not slide down, then I use spray gasket adhesive.   If the gasket is the right thickness, and tightened properly, it won't leak, this is on the vacuum side.

[Daryl Chesterman]

To remove the right valve cover on a '61 with AC you have to remove the AC bracket which shares one head bolt that has to be removed. When I re-install that bolt should it be lightly oiled or dry?

Now I understand your question!  I would vacuum out/blow out any residue from the threads in the block where the head bolt screws in, dip your head bolt in oil and lay it on a paper towel to drain off excess oil (lightly oiled!), smear a bit of oil on the underside of the head of the bolt (the area that contacts the head/A/C bracket), insert the bolt in the hole and turn it in by hand (it should turn in easily without any catching or resistance).  Torque to final specification (should be listed in your Factory Service Manual).  The reason for draining off excess oil from the threads is to prevent hydrolock—a situation where there is liquid trapped at the end of the bolt in a blind hole.  If hydrolocked, the bolt will be improperly torqued, or the threads in the block, or on the bolt, could be damaged.

Daryl Chesterman

[MidModCad]

Thanks!  Sorry if my question was a bit opaque. Fortunately all of my factory bolts are there and in perfect condition.

[Daryl Chesterman]

Do you also have the heavy flat washers that are required for some (or all—I don't know if all of the bolts require the heavy washers) of the intake manifold bolts?  Earlier, when I said to go in a circular sequence, I meant to say starting with the bolts closest to the carburetor mount, do the center 4 bolts and then work in a circular fashion as you work towards the ends of the intake.  Below is the torque sequence for a small block Chevrolet intake and you can see the "circular" pattern that is used.  The Cadillac intake doesn't have as many bolts, and the intake on the Caddy is much different than the Chevy.

Daryl Chesterman

[MidModCad]

Yes, I've got all the correct bolts, nuts and washers rehabbed and ready to go. And now the torque sequence is clear. So thanks again for the detailed response. Hearing different opinions on whether or not to use sealer on the gaskets, but the manual says to use paste so that's the plan.