1962 390 Engine Wiring Help

[midwestisbest]

1962 390

From the firewall:

I've used a Wago Lever nut to connect the resistor wire and the yellow wire. The lever nut then has a 3rd wire that goes to
the positive side of the coil. (A big splicer similar to how the original resistor & yellow go to positive side of coil)

The yellow wire goes to the hot side (R) of the starter. From firewall the red wire goes to hot side of starter.

From firewall the blue wire goes to the (S) of the starter.

The negative side of the coil (black) goes to the distributor points.

Strange things:

As soon as I hook up the battery, the oil pressure light comes on despite the key not being IN...

Sometimes when I meter the positive & negative sides of the coil, I get 12 volts despite the key not being in at all.

Keep in mind:
The coil is good.
I also need to set the timing.
The condenser, points, rotor and cap are new.

Any help is appreciated.

[Clewisiii]

I don't know what your current set up is doing.  But here are some pictures of diagram for reference

[midwestisbest]

Thanks for all this.

Some observations:

The starter has TWO lugs: 'R' and 'S' that I can see. Many diagrams make it seem like there are ...three. Unless I'm missing something.

The ignition coil is grounded? At the coil?

I'm going to take a closer look at my starter...

[TJ Hopland]

One of the small terminals probably S is the one that engages the starter.  The other, R should be a direct run to the + side of the coil and is powered when ever the starter is engaged.  The idea behind that wire is its a shorter more direct run that also bypasses the resistor to give the coil maximum power when the starter is cranking and really dragging down the system voltage. 

Places where these things can get tangled up is if anyone has put in an electric choke or newer alternator.  There are ways with those things you can end up back feeding things.

We have also had a few cases reported here where at some point in a cars life there were failures in main power feeds like fusible links and rather than repairing those someone went somewhere like the back of the fuse box and jumpered dead circuits to working ones. 

[midwestisbest]

Embarassing.

Incorrect wiring.

The wire coming from the positive side of the coil... was going to the same post as the battery post on the selenoid.

I have since corrected this.And on a positive note, my static test for spark was successful

But now my battery needs charging and I have to wait until tomorrow for more testing.

[midwestisbest]

UPDATE:

Had my battery tested and long-story-short: I have a new battery.

Here are some tests results, using the tests in this video:

New battery voltage:
12.63 volts

New battery 'crank' voltage:
10.39 volts

Coil resistance:
1.1 ohms

Dist. wire to positive lead and negative lead to side of dist.:
The resistance here will go up & down as the points open & close. They appeared to conduct correctly and opened & closed correctly.

Condenser test:
Around 200 nanofarads

Here's the test where I'm getting different results than the video.

Key-ON
Positive lead to negative side of coil
Negative lead to side of dist. (ground)
I get 12.63 volts.
The  video states I should get 6 to 8 volts because of the resistance wire. I can rotate the dist. and see the voltage go from 12.63 volts to somewhere around 50-60 millivolts. This is essentially the points opening and closing. I can hear a 'click' and a faint spark.

The Resistance Wire.
From the factory, this fiberglass-shielded, stranded, steel wire is twisted together with a yellow copper wire, on a 'flag' spade connector and goes to the positive side of the coil.

What I've done is run the resistor wire, the yellow wire and a third wire into a lever nut and made the same connections: yellow wire to starter, new wire to coil. Its a 'Y' connection basically.

I did find this handy testing list via Dan LeBlanc, which I plan on trying tomorrow:
Dan Leblanc's Testing Criteria

[midwestisbest]

UPDATE

I metered yesterday with the rotor OUT.

I put it IN today and my key-on voltage was about 6.5 volts. This follows with exactly what the video states I should have.

Too much resistance at the coil?

Also: The resistor wire's fiberglass covering was coming off a bit so I put some heat shrink on.