Carter Carburetor setup for 1962

[midwestisbest]

I have had a Carter AFB re-manned. I think its a 1404.

The carb is installed now but it looks like I need to do an initial setup.

There are two smaller screws on the front and a larger screw in the middle (Idle Air screw).

I have located the 'high idle' screw but it doesn't appear lined up with the 'index' mark on the cam.

Looking for an initial setup guide. I've heard some say to turn OUT the two small screws, 2.5 turns (and not mention the large screw in the center). And then I've heard some say to start with the Idle Air screw and then adjust the two smaller ones as needed.

The 'fast idle' screw is simply supposed to rest on the index line of the cam?

Also: Can I do all this without removing it? Seems like I should be able to
 

[Chopper1942]

A factory manual or the rebuild sheet for the carb will have the procedures and specifications to set up the carb.There are two way to identify the carb.  It may have a small metal tag on one of the cover screws or number stamped on the side of the carb base.  The carb setup can be done with is installed.

1. Fast idle.  Open the throttle and close the choke and then close the throttle. The fast idle screw should be on
   the high step of the fast idle cam. If not, the linkage needs adjusted. Once you have the linkage adjusted the
   fast idle speed is set by adjusting to specifications with the engine running and at normal operating
   temperature. You also need to check the vacuum break adjustment so the carb does not load up on start up or the
   choke open to far and die when cold.
2. The 2 small screw adjust your mixture, rich or lean, and the large screw sets you idle speed.  Back them out 2-
   2.5 turns and start the engine. If idling to slow, back out the large air bleed screw.  You may need to make
   adjustments on the small screws to get it to idle smoothly.  Contine adjusting the mixture and air bleed screws
   until it idles smoothly and at the correct speed.

[Dave Shepherd]

On the money advice!

[midwestisbest]

Labels on the carb say:

6 - 1404

and near the base:

3352S
DF2  or DE2

[dadscad]

3352S is the model number of the carburetor. With the initial adjustments suggested, get the engine running and remove the throttle rod from the firewall relay lever. Be sure that the engine is warm and not on the fast idle cam and the throttle plates are fully closed in their bore. Put a 1/4 inch drill bit
Through the relay lever holes to position it. Adjust the throttle trunion so that it will slip into the relay lever without moving the throttle increasing the idle. Remove the drill bit. After that, While the engine is running, loosen the nuts on the transmission throttle rod. Gently push it back to the transmission stop. Turn the front nut to the trunion removing any slack. Turn the front nut three additional turns. Turn the rear nut up to the trunion and tighten it using two wrenches avoiding any binding of the trunion in the pivot. . After all of that, you are ready to adjust the idle rpm and the mixture. You need a tachometer and  a vacuum gage. You want the air bleed turned out as little as possible to obtain the best idle with the highest vacuum at the proper rpm. Final adjustments are made with the mixture screws and not the air bleed.
When road testing if the transmission shift is not precise, you can adjust the throttle rod nuts up to an additional full turn one way or the other to fine tune the shift. I usually move them one nut flat or less at a time until it gets right. Pulling the tv rod forward delays the shift, moving it towards the firewall quickens the shift.
A shop manual would have the exact procedure for your year car. HTH