1932 Cadillac V16 scale model

[Roger Zimmermann]

When an element is finished, I have usually a hard time to decide "what next?". As you can see, most of the frame and engine are more or less ready with the exception of vacuum and fuel lines. Those elements will be done just before the final assembly because they are rather delicate.
Anyway, I found something to do: the mud pan shelfs or splatch plates. Two factors were the reason I delayed as much as possible their construction: the lack of information and the louvres. I had four pictures, the most informative is shown here. Finally, the real dimensions are not that important: they must fit the frame and engine.
I did first the plates with cardboard to see how to place the louvres. That was the easy part.
I never did louvres, so it was for me something new. I intended to do a simple tool which ended to be more elaborate by necessity. The first try was successful, so I could continue on the real parts. I had to do three different punches; I began with the short one.
The tool had to be modified when switching from the LH to the RH part, and of course, both elements from the tool had to be adapted for a longer punch. Finally, the result is not so bad, but not perfect. If I had to do a hood with louvres, my tool should be much more refined to have the exact same dimension between louvres. Fortunately, the hood has doors, so no more louvres on this model!
To have the frame upside down, I used something I did for the Mark II.
The splatch plates are not completely finished, some details must be added, like 4 larger louvres at the front.


 

[Roger Zimmermann]

Some details were added to the mud plates. The four front louvres could not be done with my basic tooling; after many tries, I ended by soft soldering the elements which are forming the louvres. The plates are attached to the frame at the front with four legs; they were added.
I tried to drill one hole on the frame to attach one plate; the "construction" was too instable; I had to cancel the idea before the drill broke or the hole at the wrong place. I have to make the holes for the plates before the engine is removed: there are two studs screwed into the crankcase; they are giving the location for the plates. I will make a frame with wood to put the frame on it upside-down; this stable construction will allow to drill the necessary holes.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Indeed, there are still many details which are missing from the frame/engine, they will be done during the final assembly unless the parts must be chromed like most vacuum or fuel lines in the engine compartment, or the tubes between air cleaners and carbs. However, the enthusiasm to make them now is rather low...
The latest parts I found interesting were the exhaust tips. They were probably an accessory, the shape they have is well suited for the epoch, they would be out of place on a Tesla!
I had the impression that those tips were easy to do; they were not, mostly due to the transition between a tube and a triangular shape. Anyway, they are there, even installed on the chassis. I will have to shorten the exhaust tubes as the tips are ending way after the rear bumper.
For the moment, I don't see other interesting parts to do; I will have to begin the firewall but I don't have enough brass. And, of course, the local metal store is closed till next week!
Thanks to the pictures from Johan and Paul Ayres, I have time to do some planning...

[56Fleetwood]

Hi Roger

I continue to be amazed at your workmanship and especially your ability to scale everything to perfection.

One question; how will you chrome some of the model parts? Is it the same process as for full size auto parts?

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks for your comments, Mike!
regarding plating: it's more or less the same than for full size parts: the company who is doing it is cleaning the parts (which I already polished) with various baths, then a very light coat of copper is plated, then chrome. As far as I know, there is no nickel in the process. The final coat may be thinner than for a real bumper as the requirements are different by nature between a scale model and a real car.

[Alex D.]

As far as I know, there is no nickel in the process.

You have to have Nickel in the process. Chromium is basically a protective coating for the Nickel.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Possible, I don't know. I'll ask the plater the next time I'm there.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

From what I understand the Chromium is a clear cover to allow the Nickel to shine through, forever and a day.   No Nickel, no shine.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Is this the body for the model, missing a hole on the roof for the driver's head? No! It's just a tool: with that assembly upside down, I will be able to do the holes for the splash plates and other holes if needed.
As I like to drink good wines, sometimes I'm buying some in a wood case. That wood is ideal to begin the fire in the chimney from our vacation house or to do some strange constructions!

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

So, Flow-through ventilation?

Love the camber of the roof in the growth circle.

Bruce.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Love the camber of the roof in the growth circle.
 

Bruce, this came really by "accident"!

[Roger Zimmermann]

It was time to use the tool as designed: with a strange position for the drilling module, I could do the holes for the splash plates, one after the other. As the plates are located by a stud each at the crankcase, I needed the engine installed on the frame do drill the remaining holes. That set-up is usually dangerous for the drill bits: after doing the last hole, the head from the drill press rotated (most holes were not perpendicular) without warning. The drill bit broke in several pieces; I found only some!

[Roger Zimmermann]

Most probably my planning was not the best. I should begin the body, but I cannot: I ordered some 0.3 mm brass for the firewall; the material, coming from Germany, is probably lost, I will have to reorder. I asked for pictures and specific dimensions; I'll have to wait. I wanted to have the hood's length, it was quite an adventure to get it, but since yesterday, I have it.
This afternoon, I got the dimensions from the hood's venting doors (thanks Johan!). There are 14 pieces to do, I will be busy for a long time because I have also to design the hinges to open/close them. As the hood's sides are flat, I will do that too. The sole problem I have not yet solved is the method to do the hinges attaching the hood's sides to the upper panels.
The last few days, I searched what I could do and, indeed, I found some details.

The small raised element from the grille could be done, but the exterior only. The interior will be trimmed when that element is soldered to the grille surround, otherwise it will be too delicate.

Then I got the idea to do the bolts which, on the real car, are attaching the valve covers to the heads. I saw in my older drawings that the idea was to turn and mill fake screws which would be chrome plated. I changed my plan be running a tap and using M .8 stainless screws. I had to shorten them somewhat and polish the head.

Finally, I saw that the filler tube for the tank was not yet done. Thanks to Johan pictures, I could do something which are similar to the original. For the moment, the tube is too tall, it will be adjusted when the tank cover will be done. I had to modify the exhaust system to have the clearance; again, bad planning...

[Roger Zimmermann]

I could hate the designer who wanted 7 doors each side of the hood!
I began by doing a female and male die for the doors. The idea was to stamp the doors, but I rejected that idea: for that, the dies must be perfectly aligned, requiring an elaborate construction. Then, I was not sure if my thin female die would be strong enough to shape the brass at the corners. Finally, I shaped each door on the mal die (a small hammer is a wonderful tool!) and pushed the assembly through the female die to have some uniformity.
Then I did another male die and enlarged the female one to shape the flanges which will be soldered to the hood's sides. To press the flanges into the hood's side would be perfect, but here too, a complex set-up should be created. Therefore, the flanges will be soft soldered to the hood's sides.
On the first picture, there are 13 doors and 14 flanges, plus the dies at the bottom. The flanges are looking like grown doors because the holes are not yet done. They will be shaped once the flanges are soldered to ease the work.
The big question was the operation of the doors. From Johan, I have plenty of pictures from the doors, but the question was about the spring which should keep open or close each door. I did a construction on which a door was installed (in fact, the doors are just pushed into a "pocket", the spring is keeping them in place). I had difficulties to understand how that spring could to that job. At first, either the testing door would not stay open, then could not stay closed...I did another "hinge" (a stamped piece of brass, requiring several die changes) and did 3 holes at various positions. The spring was too strong, I had inconsistent results. Finally, I did a narrower and shorter spring and saw that when the open ends of the springs are installed into the hinge's middle hole, I have a wonderful door operation, staying either closed or open at will.
Now, I can continue my mass production!

[Jason Edge]

That is some incredible work. The details is mind-blowing.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Jason!

[Roger Zimmermann]

The idea to make the hood's doors operative is opening a can of worms. Even if my test's door was successful, I'm not sure if all doors will open or close flawlessly.
After doing the doors and the flanges, I had to do the hinges: the ones soldered at the doors and the other ones attached to the hood. For both types, I had to create tools to have some uniformity among the parts.
This is what can be seen on the first picture, together with two corners on which the hood's hinges will be soldered. The profile from a male hinge is on the next picture; without tools to shape the parts, no one would be looking the same as the next.
As I finally got the 0.3mm brass, I did also the first firewall, the one which contributes to the structure of the body. On those cars (V-8, V-12 and V-16), there is a second firewall installed ahead from the first one. This was a method to isolate the passenger cell from heat and noise as well as having a clean surface to be seen when the hood was open.

[billyoung]

I remain, continually amazed.

[Roger Zimmermann]

Thanks Bill!

Each ventilation door from the hood has a garnish molding acting also has a handle to open the door (each door is to open or close individually).
I had a whole afternoon to imagine how I could do those tiny chromed parts. Then, how to attach them on the doors? To glue them is a no-go. I could also solder them on the doors and have the assembly plated; it was an option to have chromed doors, but I don't especially like it. Original parts are attached with two nuts; as I'm afraid that the part is too narrow at the front for a screw, I decided for a silver soldered pin which will also help to attach the parts to the tree for plating. One screw will be used at the rear of the part(s) as it's wider. Bolts with a diameter of 0.5 mm will be used.
To have some uniformity among the parts, I will do each needed operation on all parts at once and then go to the next task. As all operations will be manually done, there will be differences, but I hope they will be minor enough that they will not be noticed.
I'm attaching a picture from the original handle plus my prototype which will not be used unless I can drill the needed holes at the exact same position.

[Roger Zimmermann]

The name Cadillac is giving for those tiny parts: "Windbreak, hood panel ventilator port". 15 pieces are in work now; in case something goes bad with one, a spare is always welcome! The location pins are silver soldered, the threaded hole for the "bolt" is already done. As you can imagine, the hole is not very deep, about 0.8 mm or 0.03" for a screw diameter 0.5 mm (0.02").
What you see now is the side profile; the square element at the right is to maintain the part(s) in the vice for the next steps. It will be cut in due time.