When I was a teen a few decades ago, I had a '74 Coupe deVille. I did a few things to it but was never able to really restore it and quickly rusted away into oblivion (it was quite rusty to start out with). While I had that car, I acquired a 1974 full line dealer brochure and in it was a Cranberry Firemist Eldorado convertible with a white top and white/dark cranberry interior. I really, really like that car and that color but a McDonalds salary would not cut it for anything like that, let alone finding one in the pre internet days. A few weeks ago I was perusing the ebay listings for mid '70s Caddys and a rough but complete '74 Cranberry Firemist Eldorado Convertible popped up for sale. The story was that it had been sitting in a barn for the last 20 years and it had 50k miles. I bid on it and won the auction and based on the pictures, I assumed that it was more like 150k miles, not 50k. Here are a few pics from the listing:
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It took a few weeks to get it shipped but once I arrived I gave it a good look over. The body is solid with very little rust at all, the engine starts with ease, and the dash is not cracked at all but that was about all that was good. The top (as you can see in the pics) is completely shot, the upholstery is dead, the carpet need to be replaced, the paint looks as if it could be buffed out but the passenger side door and rear quarter have been painted at some point and that paint is cracked and peeling. It would move under its own power but just. The absolute worst part though was that the key in buzzer was stuck and would not stop buzzing, even with the car off and the keys in your pocket. Over all though, it's a solid car that should be easy to restore.
damn! This is going to need a lot of work! >:( 8)
Can you do the work yourself? I would recommend it, because otherwise things will get expensive I think!
Here are a few things I would do:
Go through the engine and change all fluids and filters. Engine oil, engine filter, flush the coolant, transmission oil and filter. Rear end oil. Power steering fluid.
Check for vacuum leaks. Replace the brake fluid. Suck out all the fluid and clean the reservoir.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on December 09, 2018, 03:58:01 AM
damn! This is going to need a lot of work! >:( 8)
Can you do the work yourself? I would recommend it, because otherwise things will get expensive I think!
Here are a few things I would do:
Go through the engine and change all fluids and filters. Engine oil, engine filter, flush the coolant, transmission oil and filter. Rear end oil. Power steering fluid.
Check for vacuum leaks. Replace the brake fluid. Suck out all the fluid and clean the reservoir.
Best regards,
Nicolas
I can do it all myself. Right now, I'm just making it road worthy. I started with the brakes as they felt as if they were dragging. To my surprise, the rear brakes were the factory components. The rear passenger side had a leaking wheel cylinder and the shoes were worn to the rivets long ago. I was able to save the drum and finish the brake job. The rear drivers side was in much better shape with the shoes just getting to the rivets and no leaks. The front passenger caliper was completely seized and the hose was clogged up. The front drivers side was OK but I replaced the caliper and the hose since I was in there. Both outer CV joint boots were long gone and both of the axle assemblies were the factory units. I replaced axles but kept the old ones as I think they salvageable. The front shock were completely worn out and replaced. All the ball joints, tire rod ends, and bearings were fine, as well as the rear wheel bearings. I pulled the dust covers off the rear hubs and the factory grease was still in place. The only non factory installed parts I have found on the car so far have been normal wear items. It even had an LR78-15 tire on one of the wheels. My current task is to do a general tune up, replace the degraded vacuum lines and fix some of the more obnoxious fluid leaks. The carburetor most likely need to be freshened up as sitting for a few decades probably did nothing great for it.
good! It seems you have worked on an old car before! 8)
Best regards,
Nicolas
"Would you like fries with that?"
Sorry, couldn't resist.
Glad you got your dream car! Absolutely do ALL the mechanicals first, it has to roll safely
and reliably. Then its just finding parts for the exterior and interior. If you can replace the roof, do
the body work and paint, replace the seats, carpets etc yourself you're really winning.
If you'll need a body shop to do it, contact one NOW and get on their list. Most good
body shops are backed up 6 months to a year or more.
Good luck and keep posting updates with pics!
\m/
Laurie
Quote from: MaR on December 09, 2018, 12:12:57 PM
I can do it all myself. Right now, I'm just making it road worthy. I started with the brakes as they felt as if they were dragging. To my surprise, the rear brakes were the factory components. The rear passenger side had a leaking wheel cylinder and the shoes were worn to the rivets long ago. I was able to save the drum and finish the brake job. The rear drivers side was in much better shape with the shoes just getting to the rivets and no leaks. The front passenger caliper was completely seized and the hose was clogged up. The front drivers side was OK but I replaced the caliper and the hose since I was in there. Both outer CV joint boots were long gone and both of the axle assemblies were the factory units. I replaced axles but kept the old ones as I think they salvageable. The front shock were completely worn out and replaced. All the ball joints, tire rod ends, and bearings were fine, as well as the rear wheel bearings. I pulled the dust covers off the rear hubs and the factory grease was still in place. The only non factory installed parts I have found on the car so far have been normal wear items. It even had an LR78-15 tire on one of the wheels. My current task is to do a general tune up, replace the degraded vacuum lines and fix some of the more obnoxious fluid leaks. The carburetor most likely need to be freshened up as sitting for a few decades probably did nothing great for it.
Yea, making it a function car is my first priority right now. I much prefer making things shiny and new but right now I'm sticking with drivetrain and letting other things wait. I was able to get the top go down. The previous owner said that it would just bind up half way but the real problem was that when they replace a broken drive cable, they go the two side gear boxes out of sync. I got them close enough back in sync, tightened up a few loose pivots and greased the whole thing and it folded up probably for the first time in decades. I also pulled one of the extra leaky valve covers and found almost zero build up. I really do think that this is a 50k mile car now.
I manage to acquire something that I have wanted to put in a Coupe deVille or an Eldorado for a long time:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FTalisman%2520console%25201.jpg&hash=b2174b1d73771aa7d923b867e676f7d994afc0d1)
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A Fleetwood Talisman center console. I will reupholster and fit it when I do the rest of the interior.
Welcome to the forum, you are obviously driven with passion which nice to have here. Wow you are on a fast roll with this. You found the best group to help you with questions on how to make repairs and where to find what you are looking for.
I will be the first to tell you as several other will too shortly, get a shop manual in both paper and digital, they are on ebay cheap and you will need it. The CD version is easier to search and the paper is convenient to have at the car.
Quote from: Highwayman68 on December 13, 2018, 09:23:09 AM
Welcome to the forum, you are obviously driven with passion which nice to have here. Wow you are on a fast roll with this. You found the best group to help you with questions on how to make repairs and where to find what you are looking for.
I will be the first to tell you as several other will too shortly, get a shop manual in both paper and digital, they are on ebay cheap and you will need it. The CD version is easier to search and the paper is convenient to have at the car.
Way ahead of you on that; I already have the shop manual and the body manual. I found out long ago that having the proper information as well as the proper tools goes a long way to being about to just about anything. I was able to get all the windows to finally roll down also. I was hoping that none of the window motors were bad as they can be difficult to extract. Turns out that the master power window button was corroded and full of dirt. It cleaned up nicely and now all four windows at least move.
Congratulations on great find, and realizing your dream. And what a wonderful color combination, too!
PM sent.
Charles Fares
I had some time over the holidays to put some time in on the car. As I had said previously, I had already addressed the leaking valve covers. I also did the distributor cap and rotor, as well as the plugs and wires. The next big thing was the carburetor. It was leaking badly from just about any place that fuel could leak from so it had to be rebuilt.
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All of that dampness was from running it for just a few minutes. It also smelled strongly of fuel.
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Your standard dirty, leaky carb.
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Decades of sitting had left sediment in the float bowl and on the needle valves.
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After cleaning and reassembly.
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The transmission kickdown switch was seized up and broken so I left it off (for now) as well as the anti-dieseling solenoid. There was a service bulletin that came out in'74 that said that the solenoid was not really needed at all so I will probably just leave it off. It runs much better now and I was also able to replace several rotted vacuum lines.
Next on the agenda was the hood hinges. I did not get many pics of this part but this one should say it all:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4624.JPG&hash=5738196380e3145a588b0b83f9b492d9b0773748)
The previous owner had tried their hand at fixing the worn hinge by drilling out the rivets and replacing the with bolts. Not a horrible train of thought but the bolts were not even starting to be tightened down enough before the nuts were welded. On top of that, they did not fix the elongated holes and stopped after the first two rivets. Needless to say, closing the hood was a two person job. The replacement hinges did the job and now the hood shuts just fine.
Now on to the big job. The doors on both sides were sagging and the drivers side had a bad pin on the bottom hinge. Aligning the doors is a pain (at least for me) and I was not looking forward to doing this. It's almost impossible to move the doors around with the front fender on the car so I just started by taking the fender off. I started on the passenger side.
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It was surprisingly rust free under the fender, so I was happy about that.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4629.JPG&hash=a30acd3dfe8a8127c6ad7751251858aaae54ea55)
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Even down at the bottom and under the hinge had nothing more than a little surface rust.
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The fender was another story though...
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I sat the fender aside and decided to pull out all the old seam sealer on the A pillar/firewall seam. The stuff that was applied at the factory failed years ago and it took nothing more than just touching it for it to fall out in large chunks. I had it all out in half an hour or so.
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I'm not sure what that stamp was for so I just took a pic of it...
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I put new seam sealer over all the seams that would be under the fender.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4654.JPG&hash=36431e7e9ad209213a693f1bb40696d41ef27c90)
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And then hit it with some custom spray paint I had mixed up in the correct body color.
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Back to the fender. I cut out the rust, made a masking tape template, and then transfered it to some new sheet metal.
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I fitted the patch panel, welded it in place, primed it, and then gave it a few coats of the body color to keep it nice until I can paint the car properly. It's not perfect but it will be just fine as the rocker panel trim covers the area completely. I finished the door alignment and bolted it back on the car.
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The side marker/turning light lens was broken out so I sourced a replacement lens and polished it. It turned out good as new.
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The battery tray was rusty (as expected) so I cleaned it up and gave it a coat of POR15. That should keep the rust at bay until I can take things apart further.
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I found it interesting that all the headlights were still the factory Guide Power Beam bulbs.
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The drivers side was the same as the passenger side with the exception of there being no rust at all on the fender. That saved a days worth of work right there. Both doors are aligned with the rear quarters now and they both close much easier. There is a problem with the passenger door though. It has been sideswiped at some point in it's history and the door was re-skinned. When they did it, the frame was not fixed properly and the crown in the middle of the door where the body molding is mounted is too flat. This makes the door fit flush at the top and bottom, but not in the middle. I will just replace the entire door shell at some point before I paint the car.
I had a bit more time so I decided that I needed to get the old carpet and padding out. It was unfortunate that the carpet is not salvageable because it's a one year only color and I doubt that I will be able to buy a reproduction molded carpet in the correct color.
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I did save a few good sized chunks of the carpet that were under various things so I had a good reference of the color. Under the carpet were layer after layer of nasty, smelly padding and dampening materials. I would say that it was at least 100lbs of stuff I took out. I'll have more pics of the floor pan and the heat shielding/acoustic materials that I put back in a later post. Right now, I'm trying to find a suitable color for the replacement carpet. I may even look at dying the carpet myself if need be.
Mitchell,
Congratulations on your purchase. You are really going to town on that Eldorado. This might be a good source for your carpet.
https://smsautofabrics.com/
Quote from: cadillacjack on January 02, 2019, 06:59:49 PM
Mitchell,
Congratulations on your purchase. You are really going to town on that Eldorado. This might be a good source for your carpet.
https://smsautofabrics.com/
I already tried them, they just sell ACC molded carpets like everybody else. I have a few sample from ACC that could pass for OK, but all of them are on the burgundy side (brown tinted) rather than the cranberry color (purple tinted) the factory carpet is.
Holy Cow... that was some good holiday thrashing.
\m/
Laurie
I really hate rusty brackets and other parts on the inside of the car. I really feel like they are one of the things that gives a neglected old car that "smell" that everyone here knows about.
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These parts are various brackets from the rear sides of the car and the floor pan plugs. All of them has some (or a lot) of rust and needed to be cleaned, primed and painted.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4692.JPG&hash=2d1b589fcab3dd3fd32c8f73ce4535c0ffd7bf18)
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After sandblasting. All of the parts are now clean and rust free.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4698.JPG&hash=bfc59c618e0889796657be29f2e249e41d2f0da2)
Everything primed with self etching primer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4701.JPG&hash=9e2fab39b7534b8ebfaf23e543497facc1137406)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4706.JPG&hash=408728115a1b42c4e0fae0b88720865270ea7cc1)
And everything painted with black paint. After I refresh the rear quarter windows I will put all of these parts back in.
I also managed to acquire a pair of OEM rear fender extensions. I had an ABS reproduction on the passenger side and I was not terribly pleased with how it fit.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4707.JPG&hash=0e83b80e759f45a1de88c87b0120f3b850c5d92d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4708.JPG&hash=8f4e1bb08f6597b1b9de86bc5e841fb4972b910a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4709.JPG&hash=d3edf7517e7521be4c558d4b0161d77ea3b8ae93)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4710.JPG&hash=a560d83521fbf1bc1e007740c7563896df5d104e)
Here is the ABS unit. The bumper is out of adjustment a bit and that is why the vertical section is pushed all the way to one side but the reproduction piece is the wrong contour in some areas, too short in others, and completely the wrong shape in places.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4711.JPG&hash=ee3e8b1e9d25dacb816461a917c3bab18435cdc9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4712.JPG&hash=84579e10e074c9a793b6959596706e39e756340e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4713.JPG&hash=14716b4229a2d5db17f9ef144232d2b9431e650a)
The OEM part fits much better with virtually no adjustments needed. I do need to shift the entire bumper to the drivers side about 3/16" or so though.
As has been said, pretty impressive work, good job on getting after it and getting it done.
When you finish, can you move to Dallas so we can become friends!?!?!?!
You make it look easy!!
chris.
nice! 8)
With it getting "cold" (and I do use that term loosely) here, I have started working on some of the interior trim parts. I'm starting with the rear interior side panel. The upper panel upholstery is brittle and cracked on the top and the lower panel is faded/discolored. All of the panels are also very dirty from sitting for decades in a barn.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4749.JPG&hash=796dae15ebdeaf9f06ed9ad937d82a9810a439f6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4750.JPG&hash=bed558e2a1bef4963d88f87573cc21a242a604da)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4751.JPG&hash=201a893e1f8da13928ad39f87f9c1b75cc341122)
As you can see, the panel is relatively OK but the upholstery is shot.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4752.JPG&hash=1e69c9acbd79daa4966a60f9abb539f41d6cf688)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4753.JPG&hash=6864d18d1237b9f92c8010ef8ddd8dd9323484a0)
The pad is held on with these inverted nuts that require a special hex socket.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4755.JPG&hash=55459595c052b8f93aff2447d2963967a25b0099)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4756.JPG&hash=4e2ff53bf960687bce7bad49c1e92c7fa7f73d5e)
With the pad removed, you can see just how dirty everything was.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4757.JPG&hash=6b56617dd3b09800044a6de99dc056f5793a5154)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4758.JPG&hash=96132898c837c552af44f43115b36d164a55b70e)
I'm reupholstering the pads with Ultraleather polyurethane synthetic material. It's commonly used in marine and aviation applications so it should do just fine in my Caddy.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4759.JPG&hash=7957f2050a5ffd606b1dfcd3fc790e10240545a8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4760.JPG&hash=de0457c8c68350cbec14c5d998826c3be1f8cea8)
With the pad and trim reinstalled, everything looks great. The "wood" vinyl on the top of the trim has faded a bit and I may recover it at some time, but it OK for now.
Now on to the lower panels.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4739.JPG&hash=d43593ffdde3f2ad87eee9330c7958c271fcb547)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4741.JPG&hash=55a1a5991e9ae8dce68d1311169353c825692f45)
Like the upper panel, the lower panel is very dirty but overall, in good condition.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4740.JPG&hash=fddaa04e3e964504285289245b9ff9292902d6c5)
The carpet, at a glance, looks fine but it's faded and just touching it causes it to fall apart.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4743.JPG&hash=573bc5c00b37a540be024f2c4be439857442ec3b)
With the carpet removed, you can see that the panel is in good condition underneath. The other side had a little bit of water damage in this area that I was able to reinforce.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4744.JPG&hash=52f6d30734cd69fb655a9da37cac8e6b3d512859)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4746.JPG&hash=fd23aa87c54113e1472abbd203cb87a57b734336)
After a considerable amount of scrubbing, the panel is starting to look a bit better. The color is very uneven though and I want the white parts of the upholstery to be a bit brighter than the standard Cadillac white from the era.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4761.JPG&hash=069f9232483734f8bef5cfa8b54b8b0ad428d6b3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4762.JPG&hash=2b9d4a9c2675f0f5b7628bd2d944eb7a4c0b6653)
I redyed the panels with SEM Sailcloth White vinyl and plastic dye. The color matches the material that I upholstered the upper panels quite closely. I have been using the SEM dyes for years with excellent results. You can also see the repair that I made on the lower section of the other panel. The final steps will be to put new carpet on the lower sections, polish the stainless steel trim and attach the carpet edge cover.
Those panels cleaned up nicely. Nice work!
very nice! 8)
Can you post a link or company where you got that material from?
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on January 23, 2019, 03:52:27 PM
very nice! 8)
Can you post a link or company where you got that material from?
Best regards,
Nicolas
This is the Ultraleather material:
https://www.ultrafabricsinc.com/collections/original
A number of online upholstery sites sell it.
ok, cool. Thanks!
Added this to my many link of suppliers.
I did some more work on interior panels over the weekend.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4778.JPG&hash=9009c416e3d5902000c07e1a85b9dcff001b0187)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4779.JPG&hash=1b6454c1416974d019d33ac98be9c3c9ca2793b0)
This is the passenger side upper panel. The vinyl is cracked and deteriorated along the top edge and the entire panel is quite dirty.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4780.JPG&hash=e3c6af1806990e3503bce6190fea8a55d1b2d5c9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4781.JPG&hash=4d24fbf36969e6d3b2a11debd0e60a3b4af2ddac)
With the panel apart, you can see that it's just as dirty as the rear panels.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4782.JPG&hash=01dde6050206edc046d01750732b9597610fa5cd)
The foam is discolored but perfectly serviceable so I'm reusing it. The door pull is in good condition also.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4785.JPG&hash=9c66e55ee4ba80ba897faaff2a3afd718b96a1ff)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4787.JPG&hash=55bf91abad026176b123d586ea44f612e426f67e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4788.JPG&hash=4841611f603b66862a4b02611254b7444d814e03)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4789.JPG&hash=18fac6c7ef2ed45f555b9f546fc61b7c8f81e369)
Here is the new upholstery going on the pad.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4790.JPG&hash=6138c53f1f588eb5b838dfd36136a329615298f7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4791.JPG&hash=6af490f14aa54cc1901547e8aaf2fc9fa2606bcd)
This is the foam core of the pull strap. The upholstery is sewn to the foam core and then glued to the metal frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4793.JPG&hash=dcd997c01474a0572f66bbcfa52b24f8700d8576)
Here is the new upholstery after it has been sewn to the core but before it has been glued.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4830.JPG&hash=9e68b999eb5761036b53b975337c1f261cbeff29)
And here is the back of the strap after the upholstery has been glued.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4831.JPG&hash=6fbfac959d4810b8fbfa814de41e44a22f57983a)
And here is the completed panel with all of the reupholstered parts installed. I also redyed the the door lock knob escutcheon.
I did some work on some of the other trim pieces as well.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4797.JPG&hash=d34e6a2b150dad5b3ed5924576f5a51b791b13be)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4798.JPG&hash=268537194c50959669888ef984050047ff641aed)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4799.JPG&hash=49207e0fd67c368037d5ecba09730fba0b814f80)
The A pillar trim pieces were faded, scratched, and slightly rusty.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4800.JPG&hash=495e1dc6bacdb7dfdcd321b0710373ff282577b9)
After sandblasting.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4812.JPG&hash=25aa0b2135256321376903ed4fb8f7133c696b99)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4825.JPG&hash=11d13279743c0da6e69974aa0bcac9a5c0a8074e)
And after priming and painting. I use the same SEM dye that I use on the plastic parts over the primer. Since the Dark Cranberry is a custom mixed color, I top coated it with satin gloss clear to give it a nice low luster sheen.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4804.JPG&hash=29cbecb5cc5424856135563ba17d7e521aa6ab44)
Here is the passenger side kick panel. You can see the fading were the trash can sat for decades.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4811.JPG&hash=848ee0142566946210f793f88c66f072bef8c207)
And after the panel was cleaned, dyed, and the clear coated.
pretty nice!
So, did SEM mix the color to your spec?
Quote from: DeVille68 on February 01, 2019, 02:25:16 PM
pretty nice!
So, did SEM mix the color to your spec?
SEM already had a formula for the correct color. I just had my local automotive paint supplier mix a quart. I'm going to dye all of the Dark Cranberry parts in the car so they are all uniform when I put it back together.
Although your car has been terribly neglected, my conjecture is that the neglect is relatively recent and that it spent a good deal of its long life in a garage and in loving hands. So pleased that your digging into body parts that are not rendered useless because of weather and lengthy neglect. In all, the car is fortunate to have your dedication and skill... it will be a beautiful tribute to you when it all comes together. Keep sending us pictures and up dates--- youre an inspiration. James
Quote from: James Landi on February 02, 2019, 03:32:44 PM
Although your car has been terribly neglected, my conjecture is that the neglect is relatively recent and that it spent a good deal of its long life in a garage and in loving hands. So pleased that your digging into body parts that are not rendered useless because of weather and lengthy neglect. In all, the car is fortunate to have your dedication and skill... it will be a beautiful tribute to you when it all comes together. Keep sending us pictures and up dates--- youre an inspiration. James
Yes, that's the conclusion that I have come to myself. With the limited paperwork history that was included with the car, I think the recent history of the car was as follows: The car was purchased by the second or possibly the third owner in 1997 with around 35k miles on it. Over the next two years, ~15k miles were added and then somewhere in 1999, it was parked in a barn. Since the only mechanical issues that I have found were related to it sitting for a few decades, I could assume that it could have been parked for the winter and then never bothered to be driven again. I would also guess that the car was probably in decent shape when it was parked and the "patina" it acquired was just from neglect. Since the biggest problem with most of the parts is that they are just dirty or faded though, it makes restoring them much easier.
I played around with some exterior paint on some parts that needed a bit of repair this weekend. I pulled both headlight buckets out to take some measurements and to replace the broken headlight adjuster screws. I also found that the drivers side flange were it meets the turn signal housing and the fender nose cap was bent. The drivers side fender nose cap was also bent on the inside where it meets the headlight bucket. I sourced a replacement headlight bucket and fender nose cap but I also found out that the headlight bucket for a '74 is unique for that year so I had to just repair the one I have.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4848.JPG&hash=58e595d654205ec8b50f722a3e624652617e5955)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4849.JPG&hash=14e442eb912ce1b767ae71c331ce8047f6b8d82b)
Both headlight buckets were worn, had damage where they meet the fenders and the tops had pitting.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4850.JPG&hash=76a535bc7df3bf30e246916452699665e56c28d7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4851.JPG&hash=14048270b80303afe274ef516c0cb9e19ab0389b)
I started out sanding them but realized quickly that it was going to take forever to do that. I went with plan B and sandblasted them.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4858.JPG&hash=36f6078ed8ebaacc18040a262dae27f18c2c4837)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4859.JPG&hash=88396e0aba73b51c2acb082824eb2b172158dac6)
I primed them both and spot filled a few nicks and chips.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4861.JPG&hash=156568a1b9c6ddc87952edc30f9aec9a18da0bfe)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4863.JPG&hash=585d1aa421f8c5f7588446e1fe0b92a5b3ebd609)
I sprayed them with an inexpensive single stage catalyzed acrylic enamel to see what the color should be. They turned out just fine and the color is exactly what I hoped it would be.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4860.JPG&hash=fd5dcbc10dc8601dbff154407641f8aa4c50eb9f)
I forgot to take a "before" shot of this part but it came from an Oceanic Teal Firemist '73 Eldorado coupe that had been repainted white with what appeared to be Rustoleum using a heavy nap roller. I had to use paint stripper before I would even consider priming it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4862.JPG&hash=3850176b432a680159555eb7ab58c3f3f406b47b)
It came out just as nice as the headlight buckets. I still need to let them cure for a few days and then I can paint the back of the buckets black and reassemble the pieces so they can go back on the car. In the end, when I paint the entire car, I will probably strip and repaint them again so they match 100% with the rest of the car. For now though, they are more than adequate. The buckets will be coming off and on the car several more times as I work on reproducing the bumper fillers.
Mitchell,
Your doing a great job on that car ! I can't believe how fast your going at it. Keep at it.
Back to work! Time to get the pieces that I painted back on the car so I can at least drive it around a bit.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4864.JPG&hash=4358cb5f04f0f86ab4fca21b40d2bd820e8f618b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4865.JPG&hash=5e1b0dcfa61c58b8d7d812d3d90108952d18a701)
I painted the rear of both headlight buckets black like they were when I took them off. I'm not 100% sure that they are supposed to be black but it make sense.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4866.JPG&hash=f1b563a65889352317dffb191798fe90ffde3821)
I gave the emblem a bit of a polish and put it back on the fender end.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4867.JPG&hash=cba23f042b21575ea6248fc07b0b24527ad7f8d5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4868.JPG&hash=2de9d80cdb902a19d0c5ee6fae75a0123d874da1)
Drivers side bucket partially assembled. Most of the headlight adjuster screw retainers were broken and had to be replaced. I also re-greased the pivot points.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4869.JPG&hash=6a518eb536394f2345fa72e72bbdca3d7dbf6247)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4870.JPG&hash=19059e0ddd58afbbb4a34349dcab5ac1bf2abd4c)
And here is the completed drivers side assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4885.JPG&hash=42d4e27b6643d2629487888a586c3348536a0b30)
Passenger side bucket getting assembled.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4886.JPG&hash=5ab8457841e177b9dc7909a42fb797f958221b9c)
Passenger side complete.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4871.JPG&hash=2c1e7e110719fd4d21b3466a0b36e26b0c0713fa)
Here is how the fender end cap fits to the headlight bucket.
Some may have noticed that I have not mentioned the filler that goes between the headlight and the bumper yet. I do have an NOS filler for the drivers side and I'm using it as a template to 3D print one for the passenger side. I do know that reproductions can be purchased but they are not the quality that I'm looking for.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4872.JPG&hash=80a9ef67d0d89053d962a512c6684f6dbc06253c)
Here is the NOS filler for the headlight bucket. Notice the detail on the right side of the filler.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4873.JPG&hash=d67b2053b6d3c105e82bd3c214bcad7063e7b107)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4874.JPG&hash=844fa539d063336112c10078ebf7abb990ee58dc)
Those lip piece fit over the edge of the headlight bucket and help keep everything flush. Those features are not present on the reproduction parts.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4876.JPG&hash=f6a5f3de90a7449ab4e16d945c84b540d483f221)
Here is the detail on the other end. The filler looks short but when it's actually mounted to the car, the gap between the filler and the chrome trim is gone. Also notice that the shape of the end is a little rough. I suspect that this part was made late in the life of the mold and it had started to wear out. I fixed this defect on my 3D model.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4875.JPG&hash=a9c344c26ae39af94b4aa65ef4fefd5f367b0778)
Here is the filler completely mounted. The slight waviness on the leading edge is not present when the assembly actually mounted to the car. In the end, I will use my 3D printed fillers on both sides and keep the NOS part as a reference.
I had mention in a previous post that I was mistaken in thinking that the '73 and '74 headlight buckets were the same. Here are the details about the differences if someone wants to know the differences.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4877.JPG&hash=956bdf7617fbe8c555f56b548ba7b9a32545f153)
The '74 part is on the left and the '73 is on the right. You can see that the '74 had "D" shaped holes on the face and the top edge is a bit different.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4878.JPG&hash=277d6eb18619f680e62656cc96d18a55a825f3f6)
Here is a closeup of the top edge. The differences in the notches in the top (as well as the "D" shaped holes) is to mount the trim for the '74 part.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4881.JPG&hash=eb7b3774ebd449e70f3dd3235be1004b4681c009)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4882.JPG&hash=1ec934ba0bd81d3d585def2987574f34a1f3f3b9)
Here are the inner trim pieces that go over the grooved end of the buckets. Again, '74 on the left, '73 on the right. The '74 part is a much larger die cast part that is bolted on whereas the '73 part is stamped stainless steel that snaps on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4883.JPG&hash=613cb69b3f31c744e85b26425d3596f3c2818485)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4884.JPG&hash=f25dc19f58b91b9016ab9eb2b27db89466eabeaa)
With the '74 NOS filler mounted to the '73 bucket, you can see the detail on the inner end is not correct for the '73 part. Many reproduction filler vendors advertise that the same filler works for both '73 and '74 but you can see that this is not the case.
Mitchell,
SO pleased to note that you;re working on these precise details. Getting these parts to fit correctly will add substantially to your experience and relationship with the final effort--. You're preserving a lovely car, that had you not rescued it, it would be dead. I suspect that the first and second owner would be so pleased to know that you're involved in this preservation project. Certainly is an exceptional example of one of America's last full size luxury convertibles. congratulations and Happy day, James
Quote from: James Landi on February 05, 2019, 06:23:45 PM
Mitchell,
SO pleased to note that you;re working on these precise details. Getting these parts to fit correctly will add substantially to your experience and relationship with the final effort--. You're preserving a lovely car, that had you not rescued it, it would be dead. I suspect that the first and second owner would be so pleased to know that you're involved in this preservation project. Certainly is an exceptional example of one of America's last full size luxury convertibles. congratulations and Happy day, James
Most of this detail work stems from the frustrations I had years ago with my '74 Coupe deVille. After teen age me scrimping and saving for what seemed to be eons to buy a set of reproduction fillers for that car, only to be disappointed with the quality of the fiberglass ones that were available at the time, makes me want to do whatever is reasonably possible to get them right on this car. I do have a feeling that I will just have to "invent" some of the parts myself as I am still unable to find certain pieces or even good pictures. I would love to have a glance at the blueprints for these parts...
I have continued with my restoration of the interior parts. I'm working toward getting all of the Dark Cranberry parts refreshed before I tackle the seat upholstery.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4896.JPG&hash=cd7daa7f680c5a9bd70ea67535265e35e9a4c8a1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4898.JPG&hash=63e47d0815bd12812fe01f534a26a31878778de1)
The sunvisors are in decent condition but they are dirty and discolored.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4900.JPG&hash=7d5c87f3a3efc6ee0a503779f2ca1f7f7265579b)
While working on the passenger side visor, I discovered that the electrical connection for the vanity mirror was connected with an RCA jack. It's sort of an odd selection but I guess that was the only choice at the time.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4813.JPG&hash=d81f920034dd110f0044a8d3255454a2f97798d0)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4814.JPG&hash=ec82cfc876eb4d6de110294bbea0053643bca561)
One of the hinge pin retainers was broken off on the vanity mirror cover. You can see the flat on the pin that keep the pin from rotating in the housing.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4815.JPG&hash=6556875308b5e597947e8c75b4230f5f71b991bb)
I coated the pin with a little grease and put the it in the housing in it's correct orientation.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4817.JPG&hash=0e1b8b52b24772679dae35fc89a7699b6c871fcb)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4821.JPG&hash=f3d189f72fda65fce955dbb58080064fe98ac066)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4822.JPG&hash=4fdfec8800ba18e340da33b072e8f5bbff59760d)
I then reproduced the shape of the broken housing with two part epoxy, pulled the pin out and then let it cure. Afterward, I lightly sanded it and dyed it when I dyed the entire part. A word of warning when dying these vanity mirrors: the company that made these used some kind of plastic that is very sensitive to solvents. If you put anything that even comes close to a medium coat of solvent dye or paint, the surface will crack and craze. You have to put almost a dusting coat on in very light steps until you have coverage. Almost every American manufacturer uses these same parts from the '70s through at least the late '90s and I have seen that problem many times regardless of make.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4901.JPG&hash=4c6d1390c943210f97e41fb90f5449c52f08308d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4902.JPG&hash=c979dee7d8d769096dd9cd8eeb4e2aed5573d46e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4905.JPG&hash=a49dbce17892c92d18465639068d0d5365a5fe4a)
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Here are all of the upper windshield parts. I sandblasted and dyed the upper cover like I did with the A pillar covers and redyed all of the visors and the center visor support.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4836.JPG&hash=5bcfb789b2aad698f3eecef0a73c67e952da0c70)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4837.JPG&hash=04001b7b50e28837061c417937b682296d660a74)
The visor support was especially filthy. I actually thought that the rubber was degraded and starting to come apart. Turns out that it was just really, really, dirty. The second pic was after I cleaned it.
I'm going to start pulling the dash apart next so I can clean the AC ducting, redo the firewall insulation, clean and paint all of the brackets and supports, and redye the dash pads and trim.
Wow, amazing! Keep it up! 8)
Nice work! Are you planning on painting the exterior? Most people do that first and the interior last.
Quote from: Bentley on February 13, 2019, 03:20:49 PM
Nice work! Are you planning on painting the exterior? Most people do that first and the interior last.
Yes, I'm working on both at the same time. The interior has to come out to be able to do a proper job on the body so it's easy to just pick up a piece or two and work on them as time permits. I'm going to be doing all the work myself so I don't have to do anything in any particular order.
I received my first 3D printed filler from the model that I made of an NOS part. It turned out quite nice if I don't say so my self.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4950.JPG&hash=77f69f92174512bbecb5344632f6d6a9cdb7a6ea)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4951.JPG&hash=b6ff2cd4d54fef043d65174904fc3a96841b0cda)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4953.JPG&hash=abe4df4ea0b3f2b4c6a345cd65c2962e86d74156)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4952.JPG&hash=94cfd2124b9123411bd92a810993261ea363a4d7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4954.JPG&hash=f7909d5f99e7b33e9bcccf56d054d98d30493e5e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4955.JPG&hash=54325f6d2a07cc14def2633570956b5f2fe15bc3)
Since this method of 3D printing prints the parts in successive layers, you can end up with stair stepping on some surfaces. It sands out easily though and was expected.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4956.JPG&hash=c448b0e88bca794850679aa3cd285eb859fda06e)
The fit was great and I will soon have it painted and test fitted on the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4979.JPG&hash=b62a1847e24640eee9e014512d87aafe0cef932f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4980.JPG&hash=42d11896aefbde53134cee20a674985ea57c906e)
There are so many rusty brackets that need refinishing. It's the same as before: remove, sandblast, prime, and then paint.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4964.JPG&hash=0fe8c8b2024059ceb24a3aeccd4cbd56d379c871)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4968.JPG&hash=c6a0fd3879176398f81dee066b34abd80673bc18)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4969.JPG&hash=de380adc1bc091f07f5b462efa786d8d15d84690)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4970.JPG&hash=fe33c1988184f49770bdfb05ca1dc4e8408efb65)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4971.JPG&hash=267f2b5b105de30852584c07522d0bc76bb74d93)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4976.JPG&hash=e685711ee8bce58980a3a057a4a1130a98b28f12)
The ashtray frame and retainer I painted with a satin black, all of the other parts were painted with an industrial gloss black.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5060.JPG&hash=a2b653da32db3ac9e31c42f4cb91daeb528fcc2b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5063.JPG&hash=8e6da2b8c4c0cab7d4b999a024be85c2e68c69d3)
Even the contact for the cigar lighter need to be blasted.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5006.JPG&hash=a4be723b9a2bd988f5d84f880d7b423bea242954)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5007.JPG&hash=ff3652fb3b3b293dd95cd9496e595300310835ad)
I have also disassembled the dashboard, working my way back to the firewall so I can replace the firewall insulation, redye all the exterior parts, blast all the brackets, and clean all of the HVAC ducting. I have started with the lower dashboard parts. They are in good physical condition but very dirty and faded with a few spots that the factory dye has worn completely away.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5010.JPG&hash=1afc0d9d6a36adee7e83d1e50f558ec677e310f4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4996.JPG&hash=6d4edad72e22edcec1971233218469e90ce94831)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4997.JPG&hash=26010af5584f3e818b6077477f5a7fa34fe431fe)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4998.JPG&hash=5c09d015bac9e962b1485938da7fb2195ada0a7d)
You can see just how dingy and discolored the parts have become in this shot. On the right is how the part looked on the car, on the left is after a good cleaning before I redyed it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5011.JPG&hash=467731ae58bf17c9be33eaa9b4ed480a6b4e89a8)
The glovebox door have to come apart to redye it also. The lock was a little lose anyway so taking it apart let me fix that also.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4999.JPG&hash=2f388e528cd77d29c442690bbba7a3fe99650828)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5002.JPG&hash=546528f830689c270888d91fb9f3358534903eec)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5001.JPG&hash=6a4846dd8382be03616c11aa2e6408bf1000fc00)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5004.JPG&hash=9d4ab1d09505f143acaefc3f08901e2b7619211e)
And here are the lower dash parts after they were dyed.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5008.JPG&hash=f02c9e3ad1b37c88ca3c334fc6ecaac739c377cb)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5009.JPG&hash=1040a3b63cc82fd466aa7e0bd2aab0722b2975e6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5061.JPG&hash=18094d8d5769637f8ff1f6fd806a678517116e28)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5062.JPG&hash=ab87c3b5b5461e7bb84bed292a54abec70993b92)
Here is the middle dash pad. I have not dyed it yet but I did take it apart in preparation for dying and cleaning. It was amazingly filthy on the inside. Twenty years of sitting in a barn did not do anything good for the state of the ducting.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4990.JPG&hash=6b1aabe23c23f78ca718f769dc5137c3a3b49a8b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4991.JPG&hash=26a4b7e559de3b1adec56e8a5b65c3fcd2698a6d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4992.JPG&hash=6501f82567368721df6b0535fb337b5844993e46)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4994.JPG&hash=8cb64828c3f4eb6863f0f1845327d73d4956acce)
All of the foam gaskets have turned to dust. I will have to replace every one of them in the HVAC system.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_4995.JPG&hash=47a473872740ab42d927b3935361f4bc5b520b41)
Yours is a labor of love--- thanks for sharing the details of your efforts with your picture postings... inspiring work that I trust you are curating through your pictures and narratives for family and friends . James
very nice! 8) Thanks for updating the thread. I like reading it.
Great thread and great work!
I recently bought a '74 Eldo convertible too. Persian Lime Firemist. 80K miles. You may have inspired me to do my own thread, although my car's body and interior is at a much better starting point. The systems, OTOH . . . it's had decades of "if it ain't broke" + "if it ain't needed" upkeep. Sigh. Here's a picture of it on the drive back from purchasing:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.cadillaclasalleclub.org%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D153157.0%3Battach%3D131621&hash=0b9fe80d17ae9aa079be12805bc34c27c4aab805)
I hate to add to your list, but you NEED to replace the timing set. The cam sprocket teeth are nylon on these engines and they're time bombs. I finally reached mine over the weekend, and it is still intact (thank goodness) but riddled with cracks. If it comes apart, the engine will die (of course) and you'll fill the oil pan with dried-up nylon shrapnel to clog your pickup. I would never have known of this issue if not for the wise counsel from other members on this forum as the engine was running smoothly.
Quote from: hornetball on February 26, 2019, 01:27:39 PM
Great thread and great work!
I recently bought a '74 Eldo convertible too. Persian Lime Firemist. 80K miles. You may have inspired me to do my own thread, although my car's body and interior is at a much better starting point. The systems, OTOH . . . it's had decades of "if it ain't broke" + "if it ain't needed" upkeep. Sigh. Here's a picture of it on the drive back from purchasing:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.cadillaclasalleclub.org%2Findex.php%3Faction%3Ddlattach%3Btopic%3D153157.0%3Battach%3D131621&hash=0b9fe80d17ae9aa079be12805bc34c27c4aab805)
I hate to add to your list, but you NEED to replace the timing set. The cam sprocket teeth are nylon on these engines and they're time bombs. I finally reached mine over the weekend, and it is still intact (thank goodness) but riddled with cracks. If it comes apart, the engine will die (of course) and you'll fill the oil pan with dried-up nylon shrapnel to clog your pickup. I would never have known of this issue if not for the wise counsel from other members on this forum as the engine was running smoothly.
Yea, the timing components are on my short list of things to check on in the near future. I want to pull all the accessories off and clean up the years of neglect and while I'm there, check on the timing parts. Persian Lime Firemist is my other favorite '74 color. I could see myself having one in that color as well as the Cranberry Firemist that I currently have. Is yours the one that was for sale on ebay recently?
Quote from: MaR on February 26, 2019, 03:28:29 PMIs yours the one that was for sale on ebay recently?
I bought this one in January in TN and drove it home to TX (I've had too many cars damaged in transport -- especially big, heavy cars with soft springs). I found it on CarGurus. It wasn't on E-bay to my knowledge.
The back story is that when we were first married in 1985, my new bride asked me to buy a neighbor's 1973 in Persian Lime Firemist (don't ask me how a 1973 had that color ??). A couple of years after that with a baby on the way, it was sold on (had rust also). Ever since then . . . every time I get her a car all I hear is how much she misses her Lime Green Eldorado. So, I've had my eye out and jumped when I found a rust-free example. I hid it away in our work hangar and surprised her with it on her 55th. I'm swimming in brownie points! 8)
Anyway, it's been down since then as I get it 100% mechanically up to snuff. Fun project -- lots of parts searching. It had the original factory grease in the rear bearings too -- with those felt grease seals they used way back then.
Quote from: hornetball on February 26, 2019, 03:48:13 PM
I bought this one in January in TN and drove it home to TX (I've had too many cars damaged in transport -- especially big, heavy cars with soft springs). I found it on CarGurus. It wasn't on E-bay to my knowledge.
The back story is that when we were first married in 1985, my new bride asked me to buy a neighbor's 1973 in Persian Lime Firemist (don't ask me how a 1973 had that color ??). A couple of years after that with a baby on the way, it was sold on (had rust also). Ever since then . . . every time I get her a car all I hear is how much she misses her Lime Green Eldorado. So, I've had my eye out and jumped when I found a rust-free example. I hid it away in our work hangar and surprised her with it on her 55th. I'm swimming in brownie points! 8)
Anyway, it's been down since then as I get it 100% mechanically up to snuff. Fun project -- lots of parts searching. It had the original factory grease in the rear bearings too -- with those felt grease seals they used way back then.
Yea, yours is a different car. The one I saw was a bit more rough looking and was in Charleston, SC. If you need any interior parts, I know an individual that is parting out a Persian Lime CDV.
Quote from: MaR on February 26, 2019, 03:58:29 PMIf you need any interior parts, I know an individual that is parting out a Persian Lime CDV.
Would love to talk to him. Sent a private message with contact.
The 3D printed part turned out really well! The quality of most of the fillers is not that good. Keep up the good work.
Quote from: cadillacjack on March 05, 2019, 11:01:28 PM
The 3D printed part turned out really well! The quality of most of the fillers is not that good. Keep up the good work.
One of the things that I have learned recently is that all of the companies that make the reproduction fillers are combining multiple different parts into one "generic" version. For example: there are two different rear fender extensions for the full sized Eldorado, one for the 74-76 models and one for the 77-78 models yet all the reproductions are listed to fit 74-78 models.
Another day, another rusty bracket. These are various dash and instrument panel brackets. The white one is the backer panel for all of the upper dash indicator lights.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5102.JPG&hash=7e1ff4160f05fc144f8227bb361e5c6dfa99a3e2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5115.JPG&hash=29b28fb8f71f0b7956af31cf822570fc8518f7d6)
Here is the indicator light backer repainted white:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5124.JPG&hash=8fbdf6a7df8fbe9c80bf16e0760a8414998a57ef)
The adjustment knob on the clock was rusty also:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5123.JPG&hash=e56ddfdadab26f75486b162f28d4c09eeb8cbb3e)
All cleaned up an ready to install:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5125.JPG&hash=0ae247b27026209562e0200e5043947b769a2660)
Before I could put the upper dash panel back together, I had to address the rubbed off "chrome" on the Cadillac script, emblem, and horizontal stripes. On the main middle section, the "chrome" had rubbed or just degraded and was gone on the majority of the part. The end pieces have actual chrome plated plastic so they were OK. Here is what I started with:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5117.JPG&hash=0b804c949b6f032d16810efcd73660daadac464d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5118.JPG&hash=fdbf8fe4d46a1e23bf236694c8a87cb8b4e2bb2c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5119.JPG&hash=c1dc1c6518e700398d17c0d42cff572f2e19366a)
I found a paint pen that was highly recommended by model makers for making items look like chrome plated parts. It was not that expensive so I gave it a shot. I was impressed with the results:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5121.JPG&hash=b79fe4b770e103076f30ce53eb65bd5af4608132)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5122.JPG&hash=347acceb6ab1a005a323bfb86a039eca82465543)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5129.JPG&hash=99ad8cead80952a40e9f2de02d4e2de64cb4364b)
As a side note, almost every one of the twist lock bulb sockets were corroded to the point of failure. Fortunately, I had an old instrument cluster from some other car that had about twenty of the sockets that I was able to salvage. That should do the entire car with some to spare. The beats paying $2 a piece for them from the local parts store...
Paint pen link please?
Quote from: hornetball on March 11, 2019, 01:41:21 PM
Paint pen link please?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7EG3NM
Time to dye the middle dash panel. It was the same as the other parts: good condition but faded and dirty. I cleaned it up and taped off the vent bezels. It is possible to remove the bezels but it requires lots of pressure on what can be assumed to be a fragile dash pad so I just opted to mask them off. It turns out that the bezels are 2" wide which matched my tape width so it was actually quite easy to mask them.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5134.JPG&hash=1baba30aa798db3f15435b7d2e0e3e082723881d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5135.JPG&hash=56916f29557dd15c826c112ab0a0ae0627c1ca17)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5136.JPG&hash=46fe36f2c7913ec197e00fa2e2ada96366be0573)
And here is the finished product:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5143.JPG&hash=102a20f366f4ea1dcdfce31c6a7556d245fd44e7)
I circled back around to the 3D printed filler to paint it and fit it to it's mating part. It fits as well as the NOS filler but I think I will tweak it just a little more to tighten up the fit a bit.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5138.JPG&hash=a0616d1dff92eea663690a7350ee9118be5caf3f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5139.JPG&hash=39ec6349612b8d03e2495926c8a97565f79948ba)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5140.JPG&hash=62dcfccf84421f8905592c88196e475e78bff4ae)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5142.JPG&hash=9b8df396fbaa271f42a5b63c122e6da66c6734d0)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5141.JPG&hash=78aaf843662d6a70ada5298cc9e0d9bbc6d49d5a)
I'm pleased overall with the filler and am proceeding with the other parts on the front right now. I hope to have the turn signal filler done next and then the front fender filler after that.
I think I need to have you come down to TX to paint my car. ;D
Yes, nice work!
The new filler fits the bumper nicely. You can see just how far the bumper is pushed in on the drivers side though. Fortunately, it just looks as if the energy absorber is just compressed a bit. When I get a chance, I will pop the mount off and see if I can free it up.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5159.JPG&hash=8991733fa82af349a2ccbf8c62887c8320c8c0e3)
Reference photos. Pretty sure the soft piece is aftermarket.
Perfect! That's just what I needed.
I have put off the heavy engine maintenance long enough. Sitting for decades never does anything good for an engine and I need to completely go through it to make sure there is nothing about to go horribly wrong. This engine is an odd paradox of horrible neglect and almost pristine parts.
Here is the starting point:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5193.JPG&hash=b9a94dfb779f93e8834d8bad6f0fc7464a8daf0c)
I drained the coolant and pulled the radiator. The upper and lower hoses seem to be the factory installed pieces but the radiator was changed just before I got it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5201.JPG&hash=8f5b3c299a3edf0cd71f4ad22194964a78dc80dd)
The coolant was more like mud than coolant. I wonder if the previous owner just put the old coolant back in when they changed the radiator...
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5200.JPG&hash=0f177cf179970672e89c99f6610b7ba257ca13bb)
Here is the power steering fluid. I think we are starting to see a trend here.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5209.JPG&hash=615ae7e34fb0e41c2e2ff5e203773cae3f47d277)
All the accessories removed from the front. There is a fair bit of crud and just about any place that can leak oil is leaking oil. The motor mounts seem to be OK though.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5210.JPG&hash=36d3b96763d6bccb1ee8caad1d88d32ac4fae5dc)
I'm fairly certain that this is the factory fuel filter. I'm sure that this is probably causing some performance issues.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5225.JPG&hash=bd8f121090d0e42b53bc9e3fe45c859422b350bf)
The thermostat is a little worse for wear also.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5226.JPG&hash=ca403c1ced34bbb8b5690a31a4b40f29b8674fc1)
With the timing cover off, the nylon cam gear is in surprisingly good condition. The chain has about an inch of slack in it though. I knew that it was bad already though, I could see it with a timing light.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5235.JPG&hash=a1f897e2354cab00a4b4ae22960ea83b2d826098)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5236.JPG&hash=629f08b0b798de13e7bd06ff80f3fb1339b9d186)
I still have a ton of crusty rust to get out of the cooling system and I need to pull the heads to fix broken exhaust manifold bolts. Someone had already replaced a cracked manifold on the drivers side so I think that both of them are OK.
Gird yourself. My engine looked better inside than yours, but when I pulled off my valve covers, I had mountains of crud built up over the exhaust crossovers. The end result is that all my rockers were badly worn and two valves needed to be replaced for excessive tip wear (wear is a gentle word here). I'm going away from the T-pedestals to a shaft system.
OTOH, you've got nice, fresh paint on the valve covers, so maybe somebody cleaned up under there?
I've never seen a fuel filter and thermostat look quite like that!
Quote from: hornetball on March 25, 2019, 11:57:37 AM
Gird yourself. My engine looked better inside than yours, but when I pulled off my valve covers, I had mountains of crud built up over the exhaust crossovers. The end result is that all my rockers were badly worn and two valves needed to be replaced for excessive tip wear (wear is a gentle word here). I'm going away from the T-pedestals to a shaft system.
OTOH, you've got nice, fresh paint on the valve covers, so maybe somebody cleaned up under there?
I've never seen a fuel filter and thermostat look quite like that!
I had already pulled the valve covers and refinished them myself. They were gushing oil when I got the car so they needed urgent attention. There was a little crud on the exhaust crossovers but nothing substantial.
If had some time to dig a bit deeper and get the rest of the rest of the engine apart. Nothing was surprising, and most of the parts were in decent, albeit very oily, condition. The exhaust manifold bolts were the only things to give me any trouble.
The cam gear was in surprisingly good condition with only a few cracks starting in the nylon gear teeth. It won't be going back on the car though.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5257.JPG&hash=ff58cb47052d6d86d6a65fe92b087141fa0aede7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5258.JPG&hash=45e5df99701e1ad69fd9cbe30d657e759466191e)
Nothing surprising in the valley pan, just some oil residue and some crud from burn oil around the exhaust crossover tube.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5282.JPG&hash=ea82ad2664269b6c2e217e0b5a6174a93623c1d1)
There was nothing exciting under the valve covers. Just a bit of crud build up over the exhaust crossover outlet and remnants of the acorns that some rodent had stored in the open breather hole.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5285.JPG&hash=ed9e58338fbe6ee8c67e59436fc408d11d4b5fdf)
With both heads off, the front completely undressed, and the wiring and vacuum lines removed, I can now start cleaning up the block for a bit of paint.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5294.JPG&hash=bc9aa98f4f4c1e7c1e9c736d73d4b5aa12a74538)
Here is where the fail starts...
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5290.JPG&hash=5286457113b584874901229b3c5fbbe501f127f0)
Five out of eight exhaust manifold bolts broke on the passenger side.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5291.JPG&hash=723d44ff08984723e6300381c2677624ee4a3d7a)
One of the bolts broke some time ago and was already missing. You can see in this pic that the very last bolt head was just hanging on by a thread.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5292.JPG&hash=cfb877a2f980ed2763fee969f1286978bca8e9e1)
The drivers side was much better with only one broken bolt. That will be easy to mill out once I have the head torn down.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5298.JPG&hash=583502f5b7d0c1c4c0eaec01f280b536a88894fc)
Here is what was my dads old valve spring compressor. I have no idea how old it is but it weighs about as much as the head casting...
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5299.JPG&hash=411fb6a383fa27aa4973f0de261b468b2149964b)
The compressor still does the trick and I had no problems compressing the springs and popping the locks out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5300.JPG&hash=7ada3ddc124d034b811a47c0a01bc672f0600700)
Frankly, I surprised that as much of the valve stem oil shields were in place. I think the one on the #8 intake valve may have actually still been functional. A new set is on the way.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5301.JPG&hash=b84d765a25178d5b642b3b7fb6485cbe07e1f0e6)
More work on the engine parts coming soon...
Now for some non-greasy work. I acquired a really nice set of interior door panels from a '78 Eldorado. I got both the upper and lower door panel parts but for now, I'm concentrating on the lower panels. I do like the spring loaded handle from the 75-78 Eldorado, so I very well may use that upper assembly in the end.
Here are the lower panels. They are in very good shape with a minimal amount of wear and distortion. It's very hard to find good OEM door panels like this without paying an arm and a leg for them.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5244.JPG&hash=37e574294209f4a0bd14c657207400ef180afeb1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5245.JPG&hash=7a12f5f3ea14b1a30cc6ce38514c1e9ed06364de)
Since the panels came from a coupe rather than a convertible, they have seen very little (if any) water damage.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5247.JPG&hash=41127ecca3cd2f1496134384ce6e6fecf0e395ec)
Obviously, they are completely the wrong color for my interior. I pulled the carpet off first so I can recarpet it the correct color later. I also cleaned it completely with a Magic Eraser dipped in lacquer thinner.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5254.JPG&hash=8e6225a8f13a245bb65f6b605e8f73e52485cb99)
Under the carpet I found a manufacture date. These panels were probably some of the last ones made.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5248.JPG&hash=f2c5f95127954e2d5aa711620e1f5f03760edd50)
And here it is dyed with the same dye that I used on the rear seat panels. I put several extra coats on, especially in the areas that will likely see heavy wear. I have used the same dye to change the color on a center console before with superb results so I'm not worried about it flaking or rubbing off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5302.JPG&hash=0b8b0bd528bd5ce7346751d20b481856961619f2)
Nice work. I'm looking forward to doing cosmetics.
One thing I wonder about . . . looking at pictures of other '74s, sometimes I see a vacuum canister and sometimes I don't. My car doesn't have one, and close examination of the firewall shows that it never did (there are indentations for drilling the mounting holes, but no holes). Hmmmmm . . . .
Quote from: hornetball on April 04, 2019, 03:16:33 PM
Nice work. I'm looking forward to doing cosmetics.
One thing I wonder about . . . looking at pictures of other '74s, sometimes I see a vacuum canister and sometimes I don't. My car doesn't have one, and close examination of the firewall shows that it never did (there are indentations for drilling the mounting holes, but no holes). Hmmmmm . . . .
What was the manufacture date? Mine is a late '74 build.
Quote from: MaR on April 04, 2019, 08:40:36 PM
What was the manufacture date? Mine is a late '74 build.
I'll look it up this evening. Found this link describing how to read the data tag:
http://www.tpocr.com/cadillacbp14.html
Back from some business trips and ready to work. If you remember my previous pic of the thermostat, the cooling system needs some attention. It has a new radiator, but I'm sure that it is already full of rusty crud. Here is what was residing in the upper block crossover passageway that goes to the heads:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5398.JPG&hash=3e6873ee06ed61b94d6235bc2d92544fe4cc17f1)
That crud was almost completely clogging that entire passageway from one side to the other. It did clean up nicely and I was able to get just about everything out all the way across.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5404.JPG&hash=38027888bfd88bc0ab7132efdf70241354163df6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5401.JPG&hash=3a5560f1f2a5f09244b73e4fb11f8787d560668b)
I found an similar amount of crud in the cylinder head passageways also but the lower parts of the block seem to be clear. I suspect that the slow evaporation of the coolant over the decades of sitting lead to the build up. I also know that it's going to take several coolant flushes to get all of the sediment out of all the nooks and crannies.
I have also been working on the valve train while I have the heads off. Several of the valves had some slight surface pitting that cleaned up nicely with some lapping compound.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5405.JPG&hash=cd1267191fac86cc83af8f181bc2fa03114f66a0)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5406.JPG&hash=e18475a3063a9c7460e0494a588d238aa943109f)
The pitting looks much worse that it actually was and it lapped out very easily. After lapping, I liquid tested all the valves and they all held solvent for hours with no leaks. I also replaced all the valve stem seals. All but one on the drivers side had disintegrated and crumbled up. It was surprisingly the opposite on the passenger side head where only one was broken and all of the remaining ones were still intact. New ones are cheap though so they will all be replaced.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_5408.JPG&hash=fbdb2acf3ff7c40e24b18f865fd7826ec6e92435)
Still on the docket is fixing the five broken exhaust manifold bolts on the passenger side. The drivers side only had one broken bolt and it was fairly straight forward to drill out and tap.
My head guy put in regular viton seals instead of those Cadillac-only plastic things.
Question on the headlight adjuster screws -- is the style in the pictures above (Dorman 42124) correct for 1974? I can't seem to find a clear answer anywhere and most places indicate that style came into use in 1975. I suspect that what you removed was original, so . . . . Mine were a jumbled mess -- they probably installed whatever was on the shelf when they did the cheapo paint job in 2015.
Quote from: hornetball on April 25, 2019, 08:56:07 PM
My head guy put in regular viton seals instead of those Cadillac-only plastic things.
Question on the headlight adjuster screws -- is the style in the pictures above (Dorman 42124) correct for 1974? I can't seem to find a clear answer anywhere and most places indicate that style came into use in 1975. I suspect that what you removed was original, so . . . . Mine were a jumbled mess -- they probably installed whatever was on the shelf when they did the cheapo paint job in 2015.
I looked at the viton seals but you have to machine the heads to get them to fit. The valves that still had the plastic covers were in great condition so they seem to do the job well enough for me. The pink adjusters are what should be on the car. I had two factory ones that were not broken on this car and the '74 Coupe deVille I use to have had them also. When shopping for the adjusters, I found that the Dorman pack that comes with the pink ones and the black ones was usually cheaper than the pack with just the pink ones.
Time to get the broken bolts out of the passenger side head. Since two of them had some of the bolt sticking out of the head, I worked on those first by welded a nut on the broken bolt.
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I tried a variety of different techniques to remove the broken bolt: I put penetrating oil on it, I froze it after welding on the nut on while it was red hot, I tapped it with a hammer to free it up and I put an impact driver on it. I ended up breaking the welded nut off several times but I was finally able to get both of those bolts out. The other three were broken off flush or just below the level of the head. For those I drilled them. One of them drilled perfectly in the middle and I was able to drill it out completely and then tap it. The other two ended up off center so I used a punch to fold up what was left of the bolt and then knock it out of the hole.
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With all the broken bolts out, I can now finish up cleaning the head and get it ready to lap the valves for reassembly.
Yours is labor of LOVE. For those of us who feel a need to "kick down" into first gear to see how a big block Cadillac will "rev" and perform, be advised. Happy day, James
Just a reminder that my OEM cam had 3 bad lobes. Now would be the time to inspect the lifters and cam.
Thanks for the tip on the IM studs. I found the section in the Service Manual you were talking about.
Quote from: hornetball on May 02, 2019, 07:47:59 AM
Just a reminder that my OEM cam had 3 bad lobes. Now would be the time to inspect the lifters and cam.
Thanks for the tip on the IM studs. I found the section in the Service Manual you were talking about.
Yep, I'm pulling all the lifters and inspecting the cam before I put it all back together.
Thanks for sharing
Mark
Engine work update time! I pulled the lifters and inspected the cam. One lifter was stuck and very difficult to remove from it's bore. Once it was removed, the face has significant spalling and that is never a good sign. I put a dial indicator on that lobe and it was .080" too short. The camshaft is shot...
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It's not that big of a deal though as camshafts and lifters are relatively cheap and easy to get.
Now off to the block itself. I started on the passenger side with the preparation to put the heads back on. I cleaned up the gasket mounting surface and noticed a factory defect on the edge of the block. It looks as if something bumped the edge of the gasket mounting surface and left a ding in the surface. It was easy to just file it down to make it flush though it's unlikely that it would have caused any problems if I would have just left it.
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After I got everything cleaned up I added the new headgasket, placed the freshly refurbished cylinder head, and torqued the head bolts to spec.
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I'm waiting to put the new camshaft and lifters in until I get the drivers side of the block cleaned and prepped. I don't want to accidentally drop some small gasket piece or crud into a lifter and cause issues down the road. Plus, I want to run the oil pump without the lifters in place to flush out the old oil and make sure that nothing in that part of the oiling system is clogged.
I put in the Comp Cams 252H. Very smooth. Loads of torque.
One thing that concerns me is that you haven't pulled the engine to manually completely flush out all the bits of metal that have come from the cam and lifter that could be "floating" around inside the confines of the engine.
These particles will be going through the oil pump, and hopefully being contained in the Oil Filter.
If you aren't going to do this, it would be prudent to pull and inspect the Oil Pump, and replace if necessary.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on May 16, 2019, 07:42:28 PM
One thing that concerns me is that you haven't pulled the engine to manually completely flush out all the bits of metal that have come from the cam and lifter that could be "floating" around inside the confines of the engine.
These particles will be going through the oil pump, and hopefully being contained in the Oil Filter.
If you aren't going to do this, it would be prudent to pull and inspect the Oil Pump, and replace if necessary.
Judging by the look of the lifter and the cam, the damage has been happening over a long period of time. It's unlikely that there are any significant pieces of metal that could cause damage. I am going to pour fresh oil and/or solvent though the oil pan until I quit getting dirty oil and particles before I put the new cam in. That is very easy to do with the front cover and intake off.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: MaR on May 17, 2019, 08:20:50 AMI am going to pour fresh oil and/or solvent though the oil pan until I quit getting dirty oil and particles before I put the new cam in.
I did the same using diesel fuel. I've since been running Rotella with some ZDDP added and did a quick oil change about 100 miles in as if I were breaking in a new engine. So far so good.
Quote from: hornetball on May 17, 2019, 02:38:37 PM
I did the same using diesel fuel. I've since been running Rotella with some ZDDP added and did a quick oil change about 100 miles in as if I were breaking in a new engine. So far so good.
Good to hear. I bought a case of inexpensive oil to flush with before I button the engine up and fill it with something good.
MaR, how do you get the text directly below the photo? That has eluded me for some time now. Thanks.
Quote from: Bentley on May 21, 2019, 03:25:56 PM
MaR, how do you get the text directly below the photo? That has eluded me for some time now. Thanks.
Drop your photo in with the IMG tags and then just type on the next line below it.
Time for some updates! I continued on with engine work and got the drivers side head surfaces cleaned up in preparation of reinstalling the drivers side head. Nothing out of the ordinary, just lots of scraping and cleaning to remove all the old gasket residue.
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With both heads installed, I just temporarily put the valve covers back on to keep junk out of the heads. It's starting to look more like an engine now.
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I cleaned up the front cover, thermostat, and oil pump mounting surfaces to get ready to put some parts back on the engine.
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A little paint for the oil pump.
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And back on the engine it goes.
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Just about every gasket in the HVAC system has turned to dust. To fix that, I bought a big roll of open cell foam gasket material to make new gaskets out of. Here is the plenum that comes from the main HVAC housing and goes to the vents. The foam is long gone.
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Here is one of two rolls of foam, This one is 1/2 wide and the other is 2" wide.
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After a little cutting and fitting, I have a new gasket. I will have to go through the entire HVAC system and replace them all.
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As I had mentioned before, the passenger side door and rear quarter have both been repainted long ago. Under further inspection, the passenger side door skin had been replaced but they did not get the door frame straightened out all the way and this made the profile of the door out of shape. No amount of adjustment of the door would ever make it fit properly and my only recourse was to either reskin the door correctly or replace it completely. I opted to replace the door as reskinning it would not help unless I could manage to straighten out the shell of the existing door. I found a donor door from a '73 coupe that had been painted with a roller at some point in time. I took everything out of it to get it to a shell.
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I stripped off all of the old paint to get it to a clean starting point. Aircraft stripper went right though the white paint and then turned the factory paint into goo.
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After I stripped down the shell, I coated all the inside jams with POR-15 to prevent rust. I then used a 2k urethane primer over the POR-15.
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The outside of the door is in fairly good shape. There was no rust and the only damage was where the door handle mounts. The door must have been opened very hard into something and it dented the door where the handle mounts. It all popped out fairly easily and only required a small amount of filler.
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With everything primed, I sanded the primer to get the high spots and smooth out the panel. I then did a second coat in a different color and sanded it again.
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Lastly, I used an inexpensive single stage 2k acrylic enamel to just give it some color until I can paint the entire car. The finish is fine for now but later on when I paint the entire car, I will repaint the door again so everything matches perfectly.
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Mitchell,
Terrific work-- your methodical and careful approach, chronicled on this site, is inspirational. Thank you for taking the time to curate all of your effort for us. James
I had a great trip to a local junk yard that I had never visited before and managed to get my hands on good condition OEM front fender to bumper filler that fits '73 & '74 Eldorados. This is the last OEM piece for the front fillers that I was looking for. This will allow me to make solid models to be able to 3D print 100% accurate reproduction for all the front fillers.
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As I had posted in earlier in this thread, I have the headlight to bumper finished and I just finished up the turn signal to bumper filler. I have already started work on this one and hope to have a prototype printed soon.
I also finished up the valve train installation and am well on the way to closing the engine back up.
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I needed something to spin the oil pump so I made a drill mounted oil pump spinner rod out of some scrap bar stock and some 3D printed bushings. I put a little spiral oil groove in the distributor mount ID so I would not run the risk of overheating the plastic bushing.
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The pump spinner worked well enough with my cordless drill to get oil flow to all the rocker arms.
You sure do love that 3D printer, don't you? I need to get one. Looks like fun.
The whole time I have been under the hood, I have been trying to ignore all the rusty brackets and supports.
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Now that so much of the car is apart, I decided that I should go ahead and pull the grills and the rubber air dam to see what is really going on up front.
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Nothing too rusty but cleaning all that up is going to be a pain. Turns out, the radiator shell is only held in with a handful of bolts so out it came!
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I really should have done this first thing when I started working on the engine. There is so much more room to work when you take everything off the front of the car. The radiator housing just has light rust on most of it but the battery tray has a few pinholes in it. Turns out, the battery tray itself is the same stamping as the tray that holds the horns and the overflow bottle. I'm going to see if I can locate a good used horn/bottle tray an weld that in to replace my existing battery tray.
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It's too big to fit into my sandblaster and wire brushing it is not really feasible so I will probably just have this part soda blasted so I can repaint it.
I had noted earlier that the bumper on the drivers side was pushed in almost two inches and I could see that the shock absorber mount on that side was compressed. With everything out of the way now, I had now great access to the mount. I wiped the greasy road grime off of it and sprayed it down with penetrating fluid. The fluid just instantly wicked up into the gap between the piston and the body of the mount so I sprayed it until no more would soak in. I then tapped the body of the mount with a dead blow hammer and it started to move ever so slightly. I tapped it a few more times and "pop", the mount completely extended with no lasting damage. You can see in the pic below the line in the grime where I wiped it down before it extended.
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Nice work. This forum needs a "like" button.
Quote from: hornetball on June 18, 2019, 04:51:33 PM
You sure do love that 3D printer, don't you? I need to get one. Looks like fun.
The one I have at home is a Woot! special I picked up last year for $180. It nothing special but it's perfect for small bits and pieces and prototyping. I have a larger one at work that I can use for bigger parts and prototypes but for "production quality" prints, I use a printing service called "Shapeways". Their fees are reasonable and they have some very nice equipment to print with. I can get things printed in a variety of plastics, rubber, and metals.
I almost forgot, I blasted the intake and gave it a bit of paint:
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I'm starting to clean up all the accessories so I can put the engine all back together. I started with the AIR pump. It turned freely but it sounded like something was rattling around inside it. I pulled the rear cover off and both of the vanes had several cracks in them and there was a loose piece floating around. I ended up just pulling out all the vanes and I'm going to leaved it gutted.
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I also wanted to pull the distributor apart and check the condition of all the bits and pieces. I have had the pickup coil fail on an HEI distributor before and chances are that the heat sink compound for the ignition module is old and crusty.
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Turns out that the plastic housing for the pickup coil was cracked and it just fell apart.
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Also, the spark advance weights were a bit rusty and were sticky when actuated.
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On a side note, I have historically used phosphoric acid to clean up bolts and small parts but it very caustic, can completely dissolve small parts (rest in piece little fender skirt trim clip), and it seem as if it can make some parts very brittle. I have seen a number of youtube channels using Evapo-rust to clean up parts so I gave it a shot. I'm quite impressed with it so far and it's much easier handle and clean up.
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Incredibly well done work! You are making amazing progress, and fast. I am anxious, and am pretty sure you are also, to see the final results and your being able to drive it.
Best wishes,
Charlie
I've become a big Evaporust fan too.
I got things done over the long weekend! I'm to the point where I'm putting parts back on the engine rather than taking them off. Here is a bit of a time laps of where I'm at now:
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I have the intake on, front cover on, the water pump and thermostat installed, the distributor installed and roughly timed, and several of the accessory brackets installed. I also have the fuel pump mounted but I decided that I'm going to put a new one on. The gasket for the fuel filter is shot, the spring is missing (or rusted into nothing) and there is corrosion on the inside of the pump.
I also have cleaned up more rusty parts in preparation of installing them.
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Nice pile of freshly painted parts:
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I also had time to pull out the last of the HVAC system off of the firewall. All of the foam on the doors had rotted away and there was plenty of debris inside the box. The sound deadening and insulation on the firewall was degraded and smelled horrible so it all had to go also. The only piece of old sound deadening left is behind the fuse panel area.
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Everything on the inside of the heater box was rusty and dirty. It will all get cleaned up and new foam applied. Also, the two stage actuator for the defroster door was broken so I had to order a replacement. I will probably replace the heater core while I'm at it.
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Judging by the date stamp, the ATC programmer is original.
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Mitchell,
Before you began working on the car, what still functioned? Would be interested to know if any of those many accessories were still in operation after 4 decades of use. James
Quote from: James Landi on July 10, 2019, 11:26:13 PM
Mitchell,
Before you began working on the car, what still functioned? Would be interested to know if any of those many accessories were still in operation after 4 decades of use. James
Well, it was more like 2 decades of light use and two decades of sitting in a barn. All of the windows worked, the top worked after it was greased up and the gearboxes were synced up correctly, the trunk popper and pull down works, the Twilight Sentinel system works, the blower motor works, the power seats work, the radio mostly works but all the speakers are dead, the delay wipers work, and finally the lighted vanity mirror works.. The power door lock actuators are seized up, the Guidematic sensor had gotten dislodged from it's bracket so the system was not working correctly. The power antenna mast is broken off but I think the motor is fine. The vacuum lines to the cruise, parking brake release, and HVAC system were all rotted under the hood so none of those actuators worked though I think the programmer for the HVAC is OK. The clock runs but there is a stripped out gear in it. The key in buzzer is stuck on and buzzes even with no key in the car.
...and I assume the car ran... impressive durability considering the state of the car based on the picture in your original picture. You're an inspiration! James
Quote from: James Landi on July 12, 2019, 07:46:08 AM
...and I assume the car ran... impressive durability considering the state of the car based on the picture in your original picture. You're an inspiration! James
It did run, and move (just barely). The brakes were seized up so 15 MPH was about the limit of what it could do. Inside the engine was quite clean, just about every seal was leaking though...
I got a bit more done on the engine, mostly pluming this time. I replaced all the vacuum lines on the engine itself and now I'm working my way back to the firewall replacing the cruise control lines. The one line that was problematic to replace was the line that goes from the carburetor to the PCV valve. It has a molded 90° elbow where it connects to the carburetor. The factory line was completely unusable so I searched around for a suitable replacement. Turns out the PCV line for a late '60s small block Camaro is the perfect size and there are accurate reproductions made for under $20 shipped. It's a bit longer than what is needed for the Cadillac application but it's easy to cut. I opted to omit the vacuum line to the AIR pump since it's gutted and I also did not plumb the air ride compressor since I have no idea if it even works right now. The compressor will be easy to add back in later if I decided to keep the vacuum one.
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I also added a disposable fuel filter before the new pump since I have not removed the fuel tank to clean it out yet. I will remove it when I get the tank cleaned out.
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My next 3D printed filler came in. It's the filler that goes between the front bumper and the turn signal. The fit turned out great and you can use the factory metal retainer with no modifications. Also, since I made the filler that's next to it under the headlight housing, I was able to make sure that the transition between the two pieces is perfect.
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My next filler to 3D print will be the one that goes between the front fender and the bumper, just below the turn signal filler.
That's exactly the same PCV line I used. Your fillers look great!
Quote from: hornetball on July 18, 2019, 12:11:43 PM
That's exactly the same PCV line I used. Your fillers look great!
I'm very pleased with the way the fillers are turning out so far. Once I have the front parts done, I'll do the license plate handle and then start on the rear fillers. I have a good 74-76 quarter panel extension to use as a reference and I'm working on getting a usable tail light bezel. I also have a good 75-78 front fender extension and all of the rear 74-76 deVille/Fleetwood parts to model later.
Good work! Thanks for pointing out the PCV hose. I might get one for mine too, although I already have a hose inplace, this hose with the elbow might look and fit better.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Recently acquired a 76 Eldorado convertible in need of many things. Kudos to Mitchell for posting such detailed information, and being so on task.
Andrew Wall
Mitch, can you print me a license plate handle too? Need one and all the ones I've found in the yards crumble. PM me and I can PayPal you.
After several local sandblasting companies blew me off on getting the radiator shell blasted, I just did it myself. I took it down to bare metal, etched primed it and then gave it a spray of satin black.
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While I had the front of the car off, I noticed that the sway bar bushings were looking quite sad. I got new sway bar mount bushings and end links. Everything looks much tighter now.
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Next on to the power steering system. As shown in one of my previous pictures, the power steering fluid looked original and was quite dirty to say the least. The pump was leaking all over the place and both the pressure hose and the return rubber hose were in poor condition. The steering box looked surprisingly leak free though. Here is the pump in the "as removed condition".
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Dirty, oily, slightly rusty and just in an overall tired condition. I pulled the reservoir and started cleaning it out. The magnet had a substantial amount of build up on it.
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I took the entire pump apart. If you are going to rebuild the pump, you can leave the pulley on the pump shaft. The hardest part of the rebuild is getting the clip off of the end of the pump shaft without bending it or shooting it across the room. There was no significant wear on the internal components but every seal and o-ring was shot.
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A new front seal was pressed into place.
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And the internals were reassembled and the clip was snapped back in. The easiest way to snap the clip back on is to find a socket that just fits over the shaft splines and use that to push the clip on. You don't have to worry about it slipping and shooting across the room like that.
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When putting the veins back in, make sure that the radiused side is out or your pump will bind up.
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Not shown is the rear pump cover. You either have to use a clamp or a press to put pressure on the rear cover so you can pop the big snap ring in. After that, the pump just slides into the reservoir housing. Don't forget to change the rear bolt and pressure outlet seals.
Now to put things on the engine. I put the valve covers and both exhaust manifolds back on. I had previously painted the valve covers and I blasted the exhaust manifolds and gave them a coating of high temp paint. We will see how well it lasts...
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Many of the exhaust bolts where broken or so corroded that I did not feel like they needed to go back on the car. I ended up replacing 11 of the bolts and all of them got copper anti-seize. I also replaced the nuts that held on the preheat shroud and the manifold to exhaust pipe flanges.
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For me, getting the engine to this step is a big deal as I have never had a big Caddy that did not have either a cracked manifold, broken exhaust bolts, or both.
I continued with rebuilding the power steering system. First up was cleaning up the low pressure metal cooler line. It was coated it oily grim, metallic gold undercoating, and a bit of rust. I cleaned it up a gave it a quick spray of satin clear.
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I mounted the pump, filled it up completely with fluid, purged the steering box of air and old fluid (it took almost a gallon of fluid to purge out all the old fluid), and then installed new rubber lines.
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I had acquired a replacement cruise control actuator some time ago from here on the forum. It was a slightly different style than the one that was on the car but it looks like it will work just fine.
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I cleaned up the bracket, replaced the rubber chain cover and bolted it on the car. It fits just fine with no adjustment needed.
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I replace all the vacuum lines at the fire wall with exception of the one that goes to the brake booster (I did not have the right size for it) and also installed the AC compressor brackets even though I will have to take the rear one back off when I put the compressor on. This way, I will not be able to misplace the brackets or the bolts...
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Does anyone know what this bracket is for? It looks like some kind of wire or hose retainer should go on it but I found no sign of anything like that when I took everything apart.
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I was finally able to acquire a set of factory rear tail light fillers. They are, of course, in very poor condition but they are complete which is what I need to be able to reverse engineer them for 3D printing. There are so many features on the rear of the fillers that are there to maintain the proper fit and spacing around the tail lights, bumper, and quarter panel filler that you just don't get on the aftermarket fillers that are currently on the market.
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Quote from: MaR on July 30, 2019, 02:20:42 PMDoes anyone know what this bracket is for? It looks like some kind of wire or hose retainer should go on it but I found no sign of anything like that when I took everything apart.
You guessed right. The engine wiring harness comes up from the rear of the passenger side and then there is a "T" at about the location of the PCV. The wires for the transmission kickdown, anti-diesel solenoid and distributor run in a branch of the "T" that crosses to the driver's side between the carb and AC compressor. That bracket secures this branch.
Attached is a picture showing the "T." Doesn't show the bracket though (buried beneath the air cleaner).
BTW, setup your idle before remounting the AC compressor so you have access to the idle mixture screws.
When I had to do mine, I used a bevel-drive rightangled screw driver with a short screw driver attachment.
Bruce. >:D
nice work!! 8)
I have a two foot long screw driver with a small blade that can fit around everything to get to the screws.
My other part of the interior that I really, really wanted arrived yesterday: the Fleetwood Talisman seats. Other than being quite faded, they are in good condition overall. I will reupholster them to match the car and completely go through the seat motors before permanently mount them.
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Here are pictures of my rightangle gear drive screw driver.
Wasn't cheap, but it has got me out of a lot of difficult situations where room is at a premium.
Bruce. >:D
Next on the list is to clean up the alternator. It was very recently replace just before I got it so it was not in horrible shape but the fan was rusty and it was just dirty overall.
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I pulled it apart to verify that it looked OK on the inside. Nothing looked out of place and the brushed looked OK.
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A little cleaning and some paint on the fan makes it look good as new.
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I also got some new bolts and proper spacers to mount it. Apparently the previous owner lost the spacers for the rear bolt and just used an oversized nut to space it out. From the work I have seen that they did on the car, they were not what would be consider "master technicians".
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Mine had a nut instead of a spacer too. Drives me nuts (pun intended)!
It is finally time to put the wiring harness back on the engine. The harness was in decent shape with the usual engine grime on it and several of the connector housing had crumbled off of their respective terminals. The harness cleaned up well though the woven cover for the transmission wire just crumbled apart in my hands.
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I replaced the woven cover with some small corrugated split loom and wire tied it on both ends to keep it in place.
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I ordered replacement connector housings and a bag of terminals to repair the harness. The existing terminals just snap into the new connector housings.
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This terminal that goes to the kick down switch was broken. I replaced it and popped it into it's new housing. The terminal for the rear engine metal temp sender felt a bit loose and it was replaced also.
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Since I'm not installing the heater core back into the car right now, I just blocked off the rear hose connection on the passenger side head for the time being.
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I'm also going to omit the AC compressor for now. It's much easier to tune the engine with it out of the way and I want to rebuild it before I put it back on. The proper size AC delete belt for the power steering pump is a 17485. The engine is set to base time, the plug are clean and torqued, the plug wires are double checked and connected, the belts are tight, the fuel lines are all connected, and all the vacuum lines have been replaced. Once I get the fan and the radiator in, I should be able to start it up.
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In preparation of starting it soon, I also have cleaned up the air intake shield and the radiator to grill air dam. They both had decades of funk on them and pressure washing them made the look nice. I also pressure washed the fan though I may end up blasting and painting it.
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All the very necessary air cowling needs to be in place for those hot summer days, idling in traffic. Truly enjoy and look forward to seeing your efforts manifesting so beautifully in the photos. Please keep them coming. Getting this all out there for us to appreciate and enjoy is a true pleasure. At some point, we shall all celebrate when you present this gorgeous car renewed and staged to live for decades to come. Your extra efforts are appreciated. Happy day, James
Mitch, my harness had one of these near the end of the branch that goes to the throttle linkage and distributor:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Wire-Loom-Routing-Clips/p_800840.h_800841
The nipple plugs into that bracket that you asked about earlier.
Quote from: hornetball on August 06, 2019, 06:50:06 PM
Mitch, my harness had one of these near the end of the branch that goes to the throttle linkage and distributor:
https://www.delcity.net/store/Wire-Loom-Routing-Clips/p_800840.h_800841
The nipple plugs into that bracket that you asked about earlier.
Thanks. I had seen those clips for sale and was wondering if that was the clip that I was missing.
"Since I'm not installing the heater core back into the car right now, I just blocked off the rear hose connection on the passenger side head for the time being."
Be very watchful of that rubber slip-on hose connection block-off. They are made of thin rubber and are no where near as strong or sturdy as a piece of radiator hose, I have had one fail at the end and have heard of others doing the same. A piece of radiator hose and a proper sized short bolt with a couple of clamps is much more trustworthy even if it is not pretty. If you insist on using that cheap thing, always carry a spare in your glove box.
Quote from: 35-709 on August 06, 2019, 07:31:17 PM
"Since I'm not installing the heater core back into the car right now, I just blocked off the rear hose connection on the passenger side head for the time being."
Be very watchful of that rubber slip-on hose connection block-off. They are made of thin rubber and are no where near as strong or sturdy as a piece of radiator hose, I have had one fail at the end and have heard of others doing the same. A piece of radiator hose and a proper sized short bolt with a couple of clamps is much more trustworthy even if it is not pretty. If you insist on using that cheap thing, always carry a spare in your glove box.
I have seen them fail first hand. These are just temporary until I get the dashboard back into the car.
:) Good deal.
Mitch, managed to grab a picture of that bracket for you.
Quote from: 35-709 on August 07, 2019, 10:22:23 AM
:) Good deal.
The more I thought about it, the less I like having the cap on the car. I just ordered a 5/8" to 3/4" hose adapter so I can just bypass the heater core and connect the outlet directly to the radiator.
Quote from: hornetball on August 07, 2019, 11:25:01 AM
Mitch, managed to grab a picture of that bracket for you.
Thanks. For some reason, it seems that my harness that crossed over the AC compressor is about a foot longer than yours. I had to route it all the way toward the distributer and then back up on the other side of the carb return spring bracket to get it to fit.
My NOS heater core showed up. Now I can finish up refreshing the HVAC actuator box. The part number for the heater core had been superseded a few times and it seems that it was used all the way into the '90s on various vehicles. Finding an NOS unit was not that hard.
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Mitch, I need to get one of those Palnut drivers for my interior door panel pads. Does yours have a size or part number marking? Or is there only one size out there?
Quote from: hornetball on August 09, 2019, 09:47:38 AM
Mitch, I need to get one of those Palnut drivers for my interior door panel pads. Does yours have a size or part number marking? Or is there only one size out there?
The socket I have is a Snap On S9614 5/16 Palnut socket.
Excellent work!!! look forward to seeing more of your progress!! Thanks for the time you spend to post it as well!!!
Now that I have the new heater core, it's time to rebuild the HVAC control box. I had already disassembled it, cleaned up the parts and replaced what was broken. The first thing to go in was the foam seal behind the front diverter doors.
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Next I installed the doors with their divider. The parts were sandblasted, painted and then new gaskets were made for the front and rear of the doors. The axle they ride on has to be partially pressed out and if you take it apart, make sure to put the rectangular sealing plate in with the doors and the baffle. It's very hard to fit it in after the door axle is pressed back in.
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The left hand vacuum servo was broken and had to be replaced. It had a few part number changes over time and was used in many GM cars so it was not hard to find an NOS unit. The new servo fit just fine.
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I then installed the door to the servo and the spring to the door. Everything was well greased as it was from the factory.
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The rear servo plate was installed next. It also hold the left hand door axle in place.
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The servo linkages were attached to the doors and the retainers were screwed in place with everything greased nicely.
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I reinstalled the blend door into the heater core retainer frame. The upper actuator arm is retained by a black metal clip that has to be pushed up and the slid out.
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The blend door arm is then fed through the HVAC box and then the heater core retainer frame is bolted to the box. When I took it apart, there was body calking between the frame and the box. I replaced it with a foam gasket as the calk had sort of oozed out in places.
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Finally, I added the new heater core and reinstalled the gaskets.
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Next up is the programmer. It was full of dust, old chunky grease and a bit of corrosion.
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The control board had tons of oxidation on the on the board.
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I pulled everything out except this board. I cleaned up the shell and got ready to put it all back together.
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The board cleaned up nicely and bolted back in nicely.
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I then started putting all the bits and pieces back in make sure to re-grease everything thoroughly. I also made an alignment mark on the gears so I could be sure to get them back exactly where they came from.
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I also marked the end of the actuator shaft so the arm could position back on correctly.
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And as I tightened up the screw, the arm cracked along the bend and almost broke completely off...
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A quick trip to the junkyard resulted in a suitable replacement. The actuator pin was greased and the retainer clip snapped back in.
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Beautiful set of photos and descriptions.
I am always amazed at the levels of design and build when looking at internals, and try to think of what steps the manufacturers took when designing and constructing "stuff", and how much we actually take for granted when operating the completed articles.
I have just completed pulling a Computer Printer to pieces, and with all the complexity within, it got me to thinking about the makers, and what had to be thought of to actually get it to work in the first place.
Bruce. >:D
So true Bruce, especially when you consider how much punishment these units had to endure over the years, and, for the most part, kept on working in spite of extraordinary heat, cold, and dampness. Even now, after 50 years of existence, advertisements for Cadillac "survivors" many still have working electronic climate controls. Jamess
Could it be that the Cadillac vehicles may have suffered less in the environmental wilderness simply because their owners cared for them a bit better than other brands?
Plus, with regard to the Eldorado Convertibles, their rearward rake of the windscreens, and the sturdiness of the dash tops may have also protected the dash internals from the damp elements when the roof was down?
Bruce. >:D
I have to say that I had no trouble finding a replacement actuator arm in the junkyard that I use. I pulled two of them just in case I had a problem with one of them and they were both in great condition even though the cars they came out of were in horrible condition. I would even go so far as to say that the programers on both cars were probably in serviceable condition.
From what I see on mine, the plastics and wiring used in this era are absolutely top notch. For example, in my upper dash, every plastic screw post is like new and accepts/holds its respective screw without issue. Compare that to the plastics used in newer cars where screw posts inevitably crack and have to be repaired with epoxy or plastic welding. I'm literally afraid to touch anything plastic on my '94 Corvette for example.
Quote from: hornetball on August 16, 2019, 10:29:13 AM
From what I see on mine, the plastics and wiring used in this era are absolutely top notch. For example, in my upper dash, every plastic screw post is like new and accepts/holds its respective screw without issue. Compare that to the plastics used in newer cars where screw posts inevitably crack and have to be repaired with epoxy or plastic welding. I'm literally afraid to touch anything plastic on my '94 Corvette for example.
Yea, with exception of some of the upper engine connector housings, every connector that I have touched has been just as flexible as new. I have not had a broken housing or stuck connector anywhere.
I've just gone through all 8 pages of your project post here and I am blown away by your skill, the level of documentation and instruction on how you're pulling this all together. It's threads like this one and those of other skilled members in this forum that make me so grateful to be a member. My Persian Lime Eldo convertible was faithfully maintained for 9 years by the prior owner who was a stickler for preservation and thankfully he chose to sell it to me - otherwise I would have had little confidence in any other car I may have found. Thanks for teaching. I can't wait to see how it all turns out for yours....so far I think I know what to expect in the final reveal!
Quote from: warnercoffman on August 17, 2019, 04:48:30 PM
...I am blown away by your skill, the level of documentation and instruction on how you're pulling this all together. It's threads like this one and those of other skilled members in this forum that make me so grateful to be a member...
+1
Warner, we need pictures of your Persian Lime machine. We're trying to talk Mitch into a second Eldo (in Persian Lime, of course).
Quote from: hornetball on August 17, 2019, 10:31:57 PM
Warner, we need pictures of your Persian Lime machine. We're trying to talk Mitch into a second Eldo (in Persian Lime, of course).
If I did another mid '70s Caddy, I would like to do (or make) a Persian Lime Fleetwood Talisman.
Now the the engine seems to be running a bit better, I need to get the front end back together so I can drive it a bit. As shown in a previous post, I have two of the three fillers in from the 3D printer company that I use so I'm starting there. I had already primed them so I sprayed them with the cheap single stage paint that I'm testing with.
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Here they are installed on their respective components:
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And here they are installed on the car. Ignore the horrible fit of all the parts and their misalignment to the bumper; I will correct that when I swap in the replacement passenger door.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6038.JPG&hash=9efa2879671dcf871b4c5ef5ed098a41571979f3)
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I also have started cleaning up the grills and their brackets so I can get those back on the car. Here is the lower grill. I don't think it has ever been properly cleaned so it took a bit of polishing to get it shiny again.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6062.JPG&hash=5d11ac62be3a26e71ea9848dee3abd41c7080336)
At first, I though all the chrome plating had worn off, it was really just very dirty.
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In the end though, it cleaned up nicely.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6065.JPG&hash=e5d0556050ef5450858610b90e3433ecc1dc3de4)
Quote from: warnercoffman on August 17, 2019, 04:48:30 PM
I've just gone through all 8 pages of your project post here and I am blown away by your skill, the level of documentation and instruction on how you're pulling this all together. It's threads like this one and those of other skilled members in this forum that make me so grateful to be a member. My Persian Lime Eldo convertible was faithfully maintained for 9 years by the prior owner who was a stickler for preservation and thankfully he chose to sell it to me - otherwise I would have had little confidence in any other car I may have found. Thanks for teaching. I can't wait to see how it all turns out for yours....so far I think I know what to expect in the final reveal!
Thanks!
Lets see that Persian Lime!
I got a few more things done. To start off, the transmission pan was leaking quite steadily so it needed addressing. As you can see, it had been leaking for quite a while.
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The pan cleaned up nicely as did the vacuum modulator.
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I also changed the filter and bolted everything back up and there are no leaks so far. Lets hope it stays that way.
Next up were the rusty steering column brackets. I'm getting closer to having all the brackets under the dash cleaned up and painted. It's the same as before: remove, sandblast, paint, and install.
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When I do the final disassembly to do the soundproofing, I will make sure all the ground connections have good continuity. Before I put all the brackets back in, I pulled out the last of the old firewall insulation. That gets all of the old insulation and sound deadening from inside the passenger compartment.
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The big thing I did though was work on the damaged passenger side door. As I had mentioned before, the passenger side door had been hit and reskinned sometime long ago. The frame of the door was damaged though to the point that the door should have just been replaced rather than repaired. The repair left the crown of the door where the middle trim mounts flattened out and no adjusting in the world was going to get it to align with the front fender and rear quarter. I already had the interior trim removed and was ready to pull the wiring out from the door jam.
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If you look at the mounting holes for the power door lock actuator, you can see bondo chipping out from around the holes. The entire end of the door is cracked and chipping were the bondo was applied.
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Here is the car with a successful door-ectomy procedure.
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And the new door bolted in with all of the bits and pieces back on. I cleaned up and lubed the power window mechanisms, properly aligned the window and tidied up the wiring a bit. You can see that now the body lines meet up correctly and the door now actually shuts a bit better.
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With the door swapped out, I was able to better align the front fender and associated front end parts for a better fit all the way up to the headlight assembly.
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And lastly, I did a "test fit" of the Fleetwood Talisman seats and center console. The seats bolted in just fine and the only modification needed was to swap out the power plug on the seats since they came out of a different model year. I just placed the center console as I have not fabbed up the mounting brackets yet. It looks to be sitting a few inches too low as there really is not a center tunnel for it to sit on like there is in the Fleetwood. That will be easy to accommodate for when I make the bracket though.
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What's the plan for upholstery on the Talisman seats?
Quote from: hornetball on September 04, 2019, 02:39:47 PM
What's the plan for upholstery on the Talisman seats?
I will upholster them with the white polyurethane material that I have been using for the other parts that I have reupholstered. I think in the end, the seats will be some sort of hybrid of the Talisman seats and the Eldorado seats. I need have a seat in the end that will have the folding seat back of the Eldorado seat. The drivers side should be straight forward since it's a normal 6 way power seat but the passenger side is a four way seat with a power recline. I should be able to come up with something though.
Quote from: MaR on September 04, 2019, 02:08:00 PM
Next up were the rusty steering column brackets. I'm getting closer to having all the brackets under the dash cleaned up and painted. It's the same as before: remove, sandblast, paint, and install.
It always amazes me that manufacturers of any car, be it cheap, or expensive, in the eyes of the purchaser, never bother to rust-proof the undersides of the dash parts, or any internals that aren't going to be seen.
Having done RHD conversions on many different brands, there was no paint or protection to be seen. Even the steel within my '72 Eldorado seats, frame, backing power operations, etc, are all plain bare steel. The funny thing is that when dismantling these cars for conversions, nothing was rusted to such an extent that force was required to undo bolts, etc. But, on the good side, it did make alterations a lot easier as there was no paint to remove prior to re-welding and the like. Just a quick rub with the wire brush.
But, Michael, yours is the worst I have seen, except from a car that had been submerged and not dried out properly.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on September 04, 2019, 08:54:54 PM
It always amazes me that manufacturers of any car, be it cheap, or expensive, in the eyes of the purchaser, never bother to rust-proof the undersides of the dash parts, or any internals that aren't going to be seen.
Having done RHD conversions on many different brands, there was no paint or protection to be seen. Even the steel within my '72 Eldorado seats, frame, backing power operations, etc, are all plain bare steel. The funny thing is that when dismantling these cars for conversions, nothing was rusted to such an extent that force was required to undo bolts, etc. But, on the good side, it did make alterations a lot easier as there was no paint to remove prior to re-welding and the like. Just a quick rub with the wire brush.
But, Michael, yours is the worst I have seen, except from a car that had been submerged and not dried out properly.
Bruce. >:D
"Moist" is the best way to describe the condition of the interior when I got it.
Now that I have a source for the correct style of foam for the HVAC parts, it's now time to put the middle dash vent assembly back together. I started by putting new foam on the vent doors. Most of the old foam was deteriorated and was either dirty and crumbly or musty (or both).
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The reassembly is straight forward. The only possible hiccup is that there is one retainer for the vent door on the drivers side that is different than all the others. As you can see below, one of the retainers has a bend in it. For all of the others, they are just straight.
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The first pic below is from one of the center doors, the next pic is from the door next to the wiper controls. The retainer with the bend in it goes closest to the wiper controls.
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The actual housings are straight forward to reinstall: just clean them up, slide them into place (the drivers side hosing popped in with a "snap") and put all the screws back in. The three screws on the underside of the pad closest to the passenger side are different than the other underside and top side screws and the ones on the ends are different than all of the others. I also replaced the foam on the rear of the drivers side but the foam on the rear of the middle was fine.
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I also had some time this weekend to reinstall the main grill. I started out by cleaning it up a bit, replacing the clip nuts, and installing the upper bracket (that had been sandblasted and repainted).
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Next up, I loosely installed all the brackets and finger tight installed the grill. I then shifted it around until the middle of the grill was center up at the middle of the bumper. The bumper itself was not centered on the car so I then shifted the bumper over so it was centered between the headlight assemblies. Finally, I then shifted the grill in and out until it was even with the inner trim on the headlight assemblies. The end result was that the grill was even and centered with all the trim and the hood.
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The last thing I tacked on the front end was the misalignment of the passenger side headlight assembly to the fender/turn signal. As you can see below, everything was just all over the place.
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I had to make an adjustment to the turn signal mount inside the fender that allowed it to be rotated toward the center of the car, next I was able to slide the side of the turn signal inward to make it sit flush with the outside the fender. After that, I adjust the front cap to make it sit as flush as possible on the sides. Finally, I was able to get the headlight housing to fit more flush on the inside edge of the cap/turn signal assembly.
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I did run into one little problem: the 3D printed lower headlight filler actually sits in a different place in relation to the turn signal filler than I anticipated. I will have to reprint the headlight fillers with a different profile where the two fillers meet. It's not a big deal but it will bother me if I don't fix it....
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SInce I have the old factory seats out of the car for the time being, I took the opportunity to take the seat rack off the drivers side seat so I can clean it up and get it "tuned up". On the surface, the seats don't look horrible but the foam under the leather is brick hard and the support springs are completely sprung and out of shape. In the end, when I reupholster the Talisman seats, I will have to make some sort of hybrid between the Eldorado seat and the Talisman seat so I can have the folding mechanism to allow people to more easily get in the back.
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The rack itself functions just fine, it's just grungy and rusty like all the other brackets in the interior. I'll just take it all apart, sand blast it and make it as close to new as I can.
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The biggest difference between the seat construction of the Talisman seat vs the Eldorado seat (besides the folding mechanism) is the way the seat cushion is constructed. The Eldorado seat has a conventional car seat construction for the time with "S" springs, a foam core and padded upholstery cover on the seating surface. The Talisman seat is actually constructed more like an expensive chair with an "S" spring base, individually pocketed coil springs that are tied together and then an extra thick padded upholstery cover with buttons that go completely through the cover and the springs. I can imagine that the seat construction was a considerable part of the price of the Talisman option.
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Great work as always. The Eldo sure fills that storage unit!
I always enjoy reading this and hornetball's resto job. Great work on both of your parts.
How about if you had the Talisman seat frames and base recovered with a period correct leather cover? You would have the Talisman seat comfort with the looks of your year Eldorado.
Quote from: Big Fins on September 09, 2019, 06:13:31 PM
I always enjoy reading this and hornetball's resto job. Great work on both of your parts.
How about if you had the Talisman seat frames and base recovered with a period correct leather cover? You would have the Talisman seat comfort with the looks of your year Eldorado.
I am going to reupholster the Talisman seats to match the Eldorado, I first have to work out the differences between the seat frames so I can retain the folding function so it's possible to get into the back seat.
Can you swap the seat backs to the Talisman bases? That might take away the reclining feature but, give you the rear access that you need, or give you both.
Maybe you can even fit the Talisman bases to the Eldorado rails and add a faux cover on the front and rear to make up for the trans tunnel opening the Talisman bases have.
Quote from: Big Fins on September 10, 2019, 11:14:20 AM
Can you swap the seat backs to the Talisman bases? That might take away the reclining feature but, give you the rear access that you need, or give you both.
Maybe you can even fit the Talisman bases to the Eldorado rails and add a faux cover on the front and rear to make up for the trans tunnel opening the Talisman bases have.
The actual seat racks are identical between the Talisman and the Eldorado and they seem to be interchangeable. My current plan is to take the Talisman upholstery (style), foam, and springs and modify them to fit the Eldorado frames. I will know more once I have at least one of each style of seat apart. The transmission tunnel does not have any effect on the Talisman seats since they are 40/40 seats. The center console mounts to the transmission tunnel in that car. The Eldorado has a "tunnel" of sorts under the seats. It's no where as tall as the one that's in a RWD car but it will serve as a base for me to make a small riser for the Talisman console to mount to.
Where do you get 3-d filler parts made. And do you have an example of the cost for say, the rear fender fillers. Thank you. I enjoy reading your updates. I wish my husband had the skills to do this stuff.
Quote from: babywantsbling on September 12, 2019, 04:08:06 PM
Where do you get 3-d filler parts made. And do you have an example of the cost for say, the rear fender fillers. Thank you. I enjoy reading your updates. I wish my husband had the skills to do this stuff.
I have them printed at Shapeways. I don't know what the rear fillers will cost as I have not modeled them yet but it's safe to say that they will be considerable more than the other fillers on the market. Mine will be better though. ;)
Ok thanks. For some reason I thought you had done them already. Ours bubbled up. I ordered a set off eBay. I think they’re fiberglass. I ordered them before I read your post though. They’re being painted now. Hopefully they will fit. I’m sure the other fillers will have to be done someday. At least I have this information now. Thanks again for posting that.
How is your restore coming along? I’m excited to see it finished.
Thanks, Melinda
Hope you fitted those pieces first Melinda, before painting. All of the ones I have ever heard about, or used, require a fair amount of grinding, cutting, shaping, etc. to fit at all properly. Some body shops find them so time consuming to fit and adjust that they won't do them. Best of luck.
Got it back. They are on there and painted. He did have to do some cutting to get them to fit. But I’m glad I bought the fiberglass type. Body guy agreed. Theses won’t bubble up. I’m sure the fronts will be next but for now they’re fine. How is your car coming along?
Melinda
I did a few more maintenance related things recently as well as some more restoration related odds and ends. I’ll post more pics soon.
Always look forward to your posting Mitchell. Your efforts inspire us all. James
Mitchell, I'm gonna creep around your neighborhood until such time that the for sale sign goes under the wiper, then I'm gonna buy it.
;)
Keep up the good work!
I like to jump around while I'm working on the car so I switched over to a few of the remaining interior parts that needed to be cleaned up an redyed. These parts are the trim covers that go over the seat rack mounts.
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Since they live on the floor, they were crusty and stained. I also seem to be missing a few of them so I popped over to my local vintage salvage yard and found these from a '75. They should fit my seats racks and look like they cover the bolts better than what I currently have.
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I went ahead and dyed the old covers, the new covers, and some other various seat rack covers that came off of my drivers seat rack.
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I still have a few other interior parts that need to be dyed and a hand full of under dash parts that need to be sand blasted and painted. it's getting much closer for me to start putting interior parts back in.
The exhaust has been annoying me since I got the car. Someone replaced the resonator with a straight pipe and the muffler was rusted out. Needless to say, it did not sound very good at all. You can see that the muffler has holes around the seam and there is no resonator in the pics below.
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I decided that I was going to just replace the muffler and the resonator myself rather than have the whole exhaust system replaced right now. The muffler and the resonator were rather inexpensive.
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When the previous work was done, they replaced everything from the rear of the muffler back with a single bent pipe and welded it to the stock muffler. I started by cutting off the pipe where the resonator mounts and replacing the straight pipe with the resonator. This would let me get the mounting correct for the resonator before I cut the pipe at the muffler.
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After I had the resonator fitted correctly, I cut the pipe that comes from the muffler outlet off and removed to to prep it. Apparently, the outlet of the muffler was rusted out and they just sort of spliced in a new pipe piece to replace the bad outlet pipe. This left a hodge podge of pipes at the outlet of the muffler that I had to grind off and then flare the old pipe to fit the new muffler correctly.
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I then cut the inlet off of the muffler and sliced the inlet pipe so I could get it off of the stock mid pipe. All of that was factory so it still had the factory alignment notch for the muffler. It was easier for me to notch the new muffler than try and grind off the factory notch, plus, it made alignment of the muffler much easier.
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I then put everything back together and clamped it all up. Everything seems to be leak free so far.
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I did a final autopsy of the factory muffler. On the surface, it looked reasonably OK but it was full of chunks and you could see the rear seam splitting from rust. With the outer cover pealed back, you can see the rust damage. The rear of the can is just about perforated all the way around.
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The trunk also needed a bit of attention as I really had not done much of anything to it so far other than remove a few of the cardboard and carpet trim pieces so I could access the rear filler brackets. I pulled everything out and carefully stored the cardboard pieces so I can reproduce them later.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6240.JPG&hash=a5a1ff133116cca5f807aa7140cfb45a948e9abe)
It appears that the rubber mat has never been out of the car. The trunk carpet looked brand new under it.
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All of the orange glue had given up long ago and the trunk carpet was just laying in the trunk. I was able to just remove all of the carpet and fold it up for later use. All of the sound deadeners were still in place but they were smelly and brittle so in the trash they went.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6244.JPG&hash=7797f66dc2c6993f5baa209140112713c5c90bcb)
This is about the consistency of all of the seam sealer throughout the car.
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All in all though, the trunk floor itself is about as perfect as you could ask for. No rust or any damage to speak of at all.
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Wow your trunk looks good.
I only had one seat mount cover left in my car. The rest were missing.
I have also started deep cleaning the floor pan in preparation of painted it. I started with the rear area under/behind the rear seat as it's the worst part.
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I pulled out all the degraded seam sealer, removed the rear speakers and wiring, removed the rear windows access panels and then went over everything with a wire brush attachment on my angle grinder.
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I was amazed at the number of spotwelds on this specific panel under the rear seat back.
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I also scrubbed and pressure washed the rear area and now I need to go over it with some degreaser. Once that is done, I can coat everything in POR-15 and then new seam sealer.
Bonus pics, this is why I don't put the top up:
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Quote from: hornetball on September 24, 2019, 02:51:12 PM
Wow your trunk looks good.
I only had one seat mount cover left in my car. The rest were missing.
The 75 and up covers look much nicer. I also found out that they will fit all four mount positions on my Talisman seats so I need to get another left and right one. I did not have trouble finding them in my junkyard so if you needed some, they should be relatively easy to fine.
Boy, that trunk floor is immaculate. And love the picture of the rear sway bar in place.
First Convertible roof I have seen with a Sunroof. Must be one of those rare options.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on September 24, 2019, 08:53:13 PM
Boy, that trunk floor is immaculate. And love the picture of the rear sway bar in place.
First Convertible roof I have seen with a Sunroof. Must be one of those rare options.
Bruce. >:D
And portholes! I have to say, the holes in the sides make it much easier to make adjust the top mechanism.
Forgot to mention that your pictures of the trunk floor have shown me for the first time, a correct rubber floor mat.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on September 24, 2019, 10:31:05 PM
Forgot to mention that your pictures of the trunk floor have shown me for the first time, a correct rubber floor mat.
Bruce. >:D
I will take a few more detailed pics of it.
I did a little more work this weekend. The rear of the car has never sat level since I got the car. The drivers side sat at least 1-1/2" lower than the passenger side. I had held out a little hope that changing out the shocks would help, but that was not the case. I bought a pair of rear springs, rubber insulators, and a "loaner" spring compressor from the local parts store and got to work. The old springs did not look bad from a visual inspection but there was something obviously wrong with them.
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I started by lifting the car and loosely installing the spring compressor.
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Next I jacked the suspension to compress the spring enough to get the spring out. This is the point where I tightened up the spring compressor.
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Now I lower the jack and the suspension so I could pop the spring off the lower perch and pull out the old spring.
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I then compressed the new spring and popped it into place making sure to clock it per the service manual. The new rubber bushing goes on top.
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Now I jacked the suspension back up again to release the pressure on the spring compressor and pop it out of the spring.
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I put the shock back on it's mount and put the wheel back on then check the height. It's now within .25" from one side to the other. Here are the old springs, you can see that there is a huge difference between the length of one side vs the other.
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I think another member had this exact same issue on a '76. Maybe a previous owner was a "heavy-hitter"? ;D
I got my car back from the body shop and my interior is back too. Need to post an update. Some good, some bad (mostly good) -- which is what happens when hourly employees work on a car.
Quote from: hornetball on September 30, 2019, 11:18:07 AM
I think another member had this exact same issue on a '76. Maybe a previous owner was a "heavy-hitter"? ;D
I got my car back from the body shop and my interior is back too. Need to post an update. Some good, some bad (mostly good) -- which is what happens when hourly employees work on a car.
Considering how worn out the seat springs are on the drivers side, you may be on to something...
Quote from: hornetball on September 30, 2019, 11:18:07 AM
I think another member had this exact same issue on a '76. Maybe a previous owner was a "heavy-hitter"? ;D
I got my car back from the body shop and my interior is back too. Need to post an update. Some good, some bad (mostly good) -- which is what happens when hourly employees work on a car.
That was me. I also had the drivers seat resprung and restuffed. Like factory now. :)
My next task is to get the floorpan and firewall cleaned up to the point where I can start putting sound deadener material in and get the "guts" of the dash plus the dash frame back in. I will hold off on putting the actual dash pads back in until after I paint the car. I started with the rear area under the back seat. I had previously cleaned everything up so it was already ready to coat. I'm using POR-15 for the coating on the sheet metal itself.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6276.JPG&hash=c0f365918124247bf40e4a17587ac74249d566b3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6278.JPG&hash=940e7e0134234863a5177b0acbc7e43fb069499f)
Most of the things that are attached to the middle and passenger side of the fire wall were already off the car. I just had to remove some wiring and finish removing the degraded seam sealer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6297.JPG&hash=83cc4e265bcefd96ba2eb32583e3118b357f8e9c)
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Next up was removing all of the pedals, the steering column, and the main wring harness with the fuse panel. With those out of the way, I was able to clean up the glue overspray and the remaining rockwool fuzz from the old sound deadener.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6326.JPG&hash=787ffa494d9c04ffbda1acd179aebe33bb9364fe)
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With everything cleaned up, I finished coating the firewall and then finished the last of the floor pan under the drivers side seat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6333.JPG&hash=176684f3cc681a3ac751803f3facc86b3db3e73a)
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Looks really good. Curious, why didn't you pull the seatbelts?
Quote from: hornetball on October 17, 2019, 04:24:54 PM
Looks really good. Curious, why didn't you pull the seatbelts?
I forgot to bring my torx sockets....
Time for a much needed update. After I finished up the POR-15 coating on the floorpan/firewall, I started on replacing the seam sealer. The seam sealer is available in caulk gun tubes and in quart container. I opted for the quart containers as it's easier for me to use over the tubes. The process is basically just liberally apply it to the seams and then brush it smooth-ish.
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Since I want to put the pedals, steering column, and the dash frame back in soon, I need to get to work on cleaning those parts up. I started with the parking brake assembly. Since it's all riveted together, I opted to not put this in the sand blaster. I used Evapo-rust to clean this part up. Here is what I started with:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6346.JPG&hash=d257976a2257f84a187b8779dad7b8986d220b22)
I did not have quite enough to fully submerge the assembly but it gives a good contrast on how thoroughly it removes the rust. This was after soaking overnight.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6348.JPG&hash=4530d15ca32e8feb625c583743a38c29d1f9bed1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6349.JPG&hash=74ec64e929408a52903930c1438e97026cf77443)
And here it is after the complete rust removal. I did not submerge the vacuum servo; the discoloration is just grease.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6360.JPG&hash=641bc02f365a9e8d780038ea40e1a05bc11e22ab)
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And here it is after a bit of paint:
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Next up is the brake pedal assembly. The mounting bracket was covered in surface rust but all the other parts really were not that bad.
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Unlike the parking brake assembly, the brake pedal assembly just bolts together. I stripped it down to just the bracket and sand blasted that part.
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With the bracket and the pedal arm painted, I reassembled the assembly and it's ready to be reinstalled.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6464.JPG&hash=10a740a3ed7f551d277ac1188769dcd96669c4b3)
Another set of parts that needs a bit of refurbishing are the wiring harnessed. Overall, the harnesses and connectors look to be in serviceable condition with very little corrosion. The loom tape is showing wear though and the harnesses are just dirty overall. I have decided to re-wrap them all in modern fabric tape that is made for automotive harnesses. I have used good quality electrical tape before and it always just ends up as a gooey mess later on. This fabric tape has a very light adhesive side and it should stay pliable for a very long time. Being a fabric tape, it will also help dampen any rattles that may occur from taking the entire car apart. I started with the small harness that runs down the passenger side for the rear power window, courtesy light and cigar lighter.
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I removed the old tape and cleaned up the connectors and wires. I then wrapped the entire harness in the new cloth tape.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6358.JPG&hash=b1f9b85df1e84532ed957630627ec76faee3699b)
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I will repeat this process for all the harnesses in the interior of the car.
Since your brake pedal assembly is out, you might check your cruise control vacuum break. Mine had a pretty good leak. Got a NOS replacement that is really tight.
Quote from: hornetball on November 06, 2019, 02:37:35 PM
Since your brake pedal assembly is out, you might check your cruise control vacuum break. Mine had a pretty good leak. Got a NOS replacement that is really tight.
I'm a bit more worried about the vacuum booster itself. The boot is torn and some pieces that I think are a filter want to fall out. I'm not having any issues with the booster but I don't like the fact that it's torn.
Let me know if you need a booster. I scored a reman unit when I thought that mine had an internal problem that was giving me a high pedal. As it turns out, my problem was that the booster bracket (between booster and firewall) was missing. I bought a used bracket and restored normal operation. I kept the reman as a spare, but if you need it just let me know.
Long time no post! I have been quite busy but I just have not had much time to post about it. First off, I had to acquire a replacement floor pan plug as the tab broke off of one of mine when I tried to reinstall it. I found a suitable one at my local junk yard. It cleaned up well and fit perfectly.
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6485.JPG&hash=11b049beae286e36dc431e18a5c441b48f3d60de)
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After that, I started on the heat barrier and sound dampening on the firewall. What came off the car seemed to be asphalt impregnated fiberboard with a rockwool sound dampening layer. I'going to use more modern materials as replacements. For the heat shielding, I used two layers adhesive butyl rubber sheets with an aluminium face. for the sound dampening I used .375" thick closed cell foam. From the factory, the sound dampening was just on the lower firewall and had separate pieces on the kick panel area. I put the butyl over the complete firewall and as much of the A pillar as possible.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6461.JPG&hash=fce4136d7d9b8d8a2ffc317fd8345b372fa64be0)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6462.JPG&hash=ffe2d978967770b4300f54a058e16266c55113cd)
The foam came in relatively small pieces and has to have the stickiest adhesive backing I have ever used.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6474.JPG&hash=0d23e4c7dc4fd0e62b5e4c6e8d85547d12da5ef2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6475.JPG&hash=9cca604289ebf5a0f3acc024eb68c69b78032799)
The foam was not nearly as compliant as the butyl so it had to have many relief cuts to get it to lay flat. It's all going to be hidden under the dash and carpet in the end so it does not have to look nice.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6539.JPG&hash=994b5c7a0a255d78fe0c82e5c043fede028003f5)
Now the firewall is ready to have parts put back on it.
Now to continue on with part to put on the firewall. The stainless steel trim on both the accelerator and brake pedal was looking shabby. It was time to polish them up a bit. Here is the before and after of the brake pedal insert:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6490.JPG&hash=415e21d0f0fbdc48ebea65ae7cda03234163cea9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6491.JPG&hash=be3dd001a078e186d89679cc1b67b38aa6c710f4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6494.JPG&hash=a57c78a8285affd1dd6da577b04da12493c53842)
And the before and after of the accelerator pedal:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6517.JPG&hash=a279bf00cabf72a2a52066e0065fc9d177446bf5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6518.JPG&hash=edcd2889d07e3958774203caf6ce04cce4defc2c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6519.JPG&hash=59f634aaa530640e2eea0a90d321c5c8506713a4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6520.JPG&hash=4d62592932341313873d5282c43a4da7a948bd72)
It's really hard to take good pictures of mirror shinny things but they did turn out nice.
While I was cleaning up things, I cleaned up a map light housing that I picked up recently from the junk yard. It was a but grungy and had some rust staining but it came out nice. I now just need to pain the rear section black like the '74 light was.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6477.JPG&hash=1e5526f1161c4f6cc5ece41593b8734ddf5d92d3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6478.JPG&hash=7bfe9bc53d81f00ed6c69094ed1d9876caefb918)
And after:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6481.JPG&hash=388d8349f8ae394636afc3f0d5a14302ca95ffb4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6482.JPG&hash=bdd50a43f580c7f924ad5d3f2a6b92ee4b1aa6b0)
I also started to fab up the mount for the Talisman center console. I decided that I want brackets that fit over the inner seat rail studs and that I want a plate in the middle to not only mount the console, but any accessory electronics that I may add also. I started by making cardboard templates and then transferring that to 16 AWG steel. Here are the parts after I bent them and then with the mounting holes.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6500.JPG&hash=ccf0d0889e31db3b1916bca0866eef893a662849)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6501.JPG&hash=e7ea671716d0ef0d7fc9860cdbb5b61ddfc309cb)
Next up is to test fit the brackets and check the plate size and location:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6502.JPG&hash=e6a054da1bf4ddc11361bced53d533f9a37747e5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6503.JPG&hash=bea61c29a4e2a592e19a491d56b4edcfca451695)
Now I need to weld the plate to the brackets and make the mounts for the console itself. That part will come soon. (hopefully)
Quote from: MaR on December 03, 2019, 04:51:58 PM
It's really hard to take good pictures of mirror shinny things but they did turn out nice.
The secret is to turn off the flash on the camera before taking pictures.
Bruce. >:D
Great work as always! I like your brackets. That will make the console installation really clean.
Quote from: hornetball on December 04, 2019, 07:35:39 AM
Great work as always! I like your brackets. That will make the console installation really clean.
I'm really pleased with the way it's turning out. I probably going to mount a small Bluetooth 4 channel amp on the bracket to run the audio system. Since the Talisman console was designed to fit in a RWD car it will need a riser to be at the correct height. That extra room under the console will be plenty of space for the amp.
Whenever I think I have gotten all of the interior parts re-dyed, I find another dozen or so parts that still need work....
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I have been putting off working on the steering column for a while. On the '74 CDV I had years ago, I tried to do some work on the column and the end result was me having to hold the column up out of my lap while I took a trip to the junk yard to get a replacement column...
Like everything else, the column itself needs refinishing and the key in buzzer switch is stuck on all the time. I was hoping that the buzzer switch was just crudded up but after a can of contact cleaner sprayed in every direction possible, there was no change. On top of that, all of the various levers were rusty and needed to have their plastic part refinished as well. With the column already out of the car, I started removing parts to get to the key in switch. I started by removing the rubber bumper and the plastic retainer.
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The retainer crumbled into bits but it's a readily available part in the aftermarket so it's no big deal. With the retainer removed, the lock plate retainer clip is exposed. To get the lock plate out you have to lock the telescopic rod in place with a bolt and then use a special lock plate spring compressor to push the lock plate down to remove the clip. The clip will then just slide out by hand.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6529.JPG&hash=74ace97fa1074f4a68feaa8321517d16dad90c13)
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In this slightly blurry pic, you can see the contacts for the key in switch. To get the switch out, use a 90 degree bent pick to grab the retainer clip and just pull the entire switch out of the column. The switch itself just needed the contacts adjusted internally so they have an airgap when it's in the normal position.
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Next up was to get the turn signal stalk out. It VITALLY important to attach a fish wire to the end of the cruise button connector before you pull it back through the column. If you don't, you won't be able to get the cable back though the column without taking the whole thing apart. To unscrew the turn signal stalk, pull enough of the cable back though the column so you can loop it over the end of the stalk as you unscrew it. This will keep you from wrapping it around the stalk and damaging the wire. Once you have the stalk out, I like to take the fish cable and tie both ends together so it's not likely to get caught on something and getting pulled out. When I got the stalk and cable out, I found out that one wire was already rubbed through and the others look damaged. I will fix those after I refinish the stalk.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6533.JPG&hash=c1ba1e6ea382595c5b99b86cbd3918559893250e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6540.JPG&hash=f4766cf38378bda0e3e34687a2646615ab9edfc1)
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And that's it so far. Next up will be to refinish the column and stalks and then get everyting put back together.
Is the end of your CC stalk black or a badly faded red?
I'm amazed at all the specialized tools and knowledge you have. Have you been doing this professionally?
Quote from: hornetball on December 05, 2019, 08:02:05 AM
Is the end of your CC stalk black or a badly faded red?
I'm amazed at all the specialized tools and knowledge you have. Have you been doing this professionally?
Badly faded red. My father was an aircraft mechanic so I gained a lot of knowledge from him and I have been tinkering with cars all my life. That also leads you to have lots and lots of tools...
Another weekend update. The reproduction horn contact retainer arrived for the steering column and it popped right back in place. This let me finish reassembling the inside of the column and move on to paint.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6551.JPG&hash=3a9f7bff6248777ed4582cb03408025b388fedca)
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6555.JPG&hash=6aabf26517dc8f4bf766f63c709db5a6d69474f5)
I also refinished the HAZARD switch endcap. I think it's supposed to have white lettering but I like the results with the chrome pen.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6549.JPG&hash=495748918ae0c54f6a7248a1928caaab2e9b46fe)
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I have a number of ideas on how to restore my steering wheel. In the meantime, I have a spare wheel that I'm going to do a quick and dirty restoration on so I have something to point the car with. First off is to fill the cracks with epoxy. I'm working on it between other parts so updates on it will happen when they happen.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6546.JPG&hash=b279cdc2caf3baf92c1c81c276ef0ed03ec2a4c4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6548.JPG&hash=d68f0ea6eb5aabccfb8aa79d110e331274526173)
Next up is to get the HVAC box back on the firewall. The box itself I have already cleaned up and is ready to install but the vacuum harness is super dirty and needs some attention.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6556.JPG&hash=949a1082ef1f9bd26b78243c4731d62fa2bd1488)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6557.JPG&hash=1be319c6decf00e214dde676210ea3dc51d7d960)
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As you can see, it's quite dirty for something that lives under the dash. Here it is all cleaned up:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6560.JPG&hash=854a3471207c054d431987f86ea6720019a25768)
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I also went ahead and cleaned up the floor defuser so I could mount it on the HVAC box.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6561.JPG&hash=5fe7e58f3b0f259a4acc34c919bf2aa1537c370b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6563.JPG&hash=a61a58a7559f65300a3d8bc5cd2d302fc2c2680f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6564.JPG&hash=dfc605fcc341acecd52d547e4216d9ba484a5432)
Now I could put the vacuum harness back on the HVAC box:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6565.JPG&hash=fcec0d15243353eb3f98ba7d1decfa369b2cdf21)
And mount the box to the firewall:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6567.JPG&hash=b9a6b4ec88d150ebec2a0b3046b68c3a09d2fc75)
While I was in the car, I also fitted the center console bracket after I spotwelded the mounts to the center plate. Next up for the bracket will be to locate the console forward/rearward, set the height, and then make the "U" brackets that will be welded on to hold the console in place.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6566.JPG&hash=e3649c3fdc284484445afe4940091d52230cfb00)
I also cleaned up and rewrapped the main dash harness with the fuse box. The harness was not super dirty but the wire wrap was coming apart and needed to be redone.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6568.JPG&hash=9e1c80b51a743a3ef777eddac08e4c71a2146ef4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6569.JPG&hash=3b31f2a97f8355b914c29fbc7cbee9ea590eaaeb)
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And here it is after it was rewrapped and cleaned up.
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What are all the holes for that are between the front and back plates of the console mount? Were you looking for oil?
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 09, 2019, 06:05:05 PM
What are all the holes for that are between the front and back plates of the console mount? Were you looking for oil?
Bruce. >:D
On the seat rail plates or the console bracket?
On the floor, covered by the black "paint". There is a row of them, front to back.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 09, 2019, 08:01:08 PM
On the floor, covered by the black "paint". There is a row of them, front to back.
Bruce. >:D
Beats me, they were both like that from the factory.
They don't look very "Factoryish" to me. Not in alignment, and oddly spaced.
Bruce. >:D
My car doesn't have those holes. Mine was also a bench seat car and only has the threaded inserts for seat mounting at the edges by the door openings, nothing in the middle.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 10, 2019, 01:47:32 AM
They don't look very "Factoryish" to me. Not in alignment, and oddly spaced.
Bruce. >:D
Here is the best shot I have of it before I coated the floor with POR-15:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2Fseat%2520bracket%2520holes.JPG&hash=b148cd7053bfe2a692aba79c915e3f84877f6590)
I agree that they do look odd but they were in the brackets before the body was painted and if you look carefully, you can see the staggered "pattern" is a mirror image from one bracket to the other.
Thanks Michael,
I remember that picture, and was going to ask the same question back then, but didn't.
Would be interesting to know the reason for them.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 10, 2019, 06:07:22 PM
Thanks Michael,
I remember that picture, and was going to ask the same question back then, but didn't.
Would be interesting to know the reason for them.
Bruce. >:D
I was wondering the same thing. They are too big to hold wiring harness clips, the floor pan is right under the holes so not much could stick though the hole. Maybe it's a common GM part and it has a use in some other vehicle.
I acquired a replacement turn signal lever form Charles here on the forum. The chrome is in great condition and the wiring is not damaged like it is on mine. I immediately prepped it and sprayed it to match my interior. I'm not sure if they are all this way but both my stock lever and this new one have a black button and a color keyed outer bezel. I'm sticking with that setup. It's a bit tedious to tape off the center button but doable. I used a paint can lid opener to push the button down while I was spraying it to be good coverage.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6575.JPG&hash=0872c9a11704af80b3f158a3866a9062c89f6e92)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6576.JPG&hash=f8c5839ba65bba50c65e47ad45d153c5c42b2eb7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6577.JPG&hash=1340bcee54c28cf52497087ca3bcacba80319223)
Here is the column with it's topcoat and then the column installed with the levers in place.
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6640.JPG&hash=9e31047067c22523b80545fb6a709c6aa3ce4a69)
Before I could put the brake pedal assembly back on the car, I had to address the ripped boot on the pedal side of the vacuum booster. There were also loose parts rattling around between the boot and the booster. I started by removing the booster. It was a bit rusty so I was going to also take the opportunity to clean it up.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6596.JPG&hash=9dace060d1a3a2ee717dd5d06094215d49ea5d54)
Here you can see the ripped boot and the pieces that were loose on the actuator shaft. It turns out that the parts had just come unseated and I was able to just press them back into place and then put on a new boot. The total repair was about $5 in parts.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6589.JPG&hash=d343a3ddb3a0b97847acbfd8734e0fc9c17f63bc)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6590.JPG&hash=4cc84441ad8ae67796b7e1f472cfa65145c9f10c)
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6592.JPG&hash=348f8cdb4d2154343dbcc20afe718e68d5c2f426)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6593.JPG&hash=437147d94e6644742df7d12e38283e684c23816a)
I really wanted the look of cadmium plating but not enough to actually have it replated. I have seen a number of painting techniques to simulate cad plating so I figured I would give it a shot. Worst case is that I hate it and I just paint it black. First off (after cleaning it up) is to give it a silver base coat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6613.JPG&hash=9b07a6a0e1ce72273f11ebc4b868ba8c372a95d3)
Next I gave it splotches of red and green. I used transparent paint that lets the silver show through.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6614.JPG&hash=62f403b6dfb45a174620e5f0528d87debf1d36e4)
After that (while the red and green were still wet) I gave it thin gold topcoat. I have seen instructions that say to do the red and green after the gold but when I tested that, it just looked like red and green spray paint on top of gold. The way I did it made the colors blend much more evenly. It's not going to fool any judges at Pebble Beach but it's more than adequate for me.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6615.JPG&hash=f36a7262093a449d33d3345c0bf0a2e71fa2927e)
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With the vacuum booster back in the car, I was finally able to mount he brake pedal assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6641.JPG&hash=5e80fc6eb4a2eaa540104601832821763a94273e)
It seems that there is an unending supply of wiring harnesses.
Before:
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After:
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I won't bore you will shot after shot of harness so lets skip to the end where I'm putting them back in the car. Here is the fuse panel harness and upper cross harness mounted along with the center top support bracket. All the wiring tucked neatly back into their retainers and I was able to tie a few things back even further to keep things from shifting around in the future.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6671.JPG&hash=67753b4fd9974013832316740a739c4ab73d1eb2)
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I also installed the rigid ducts from the HVAC box. The defroster duct is retained at the top with metal tab that are twisted to keep the duct from popping back out of place.
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The next step will be to install the large cast dash frame. I will install it as soon as I have it cleaned up.
Outstanding work as usual. :)
Time to work on the switches and controls. All the controls were just as filthy as everything else in the car so all of them needed work in some form or another. I started with the HVAC controls. The unit itself was quite dirty, the mode lever was very stiff and things like the chrome trim were worn.
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With the unit apart, it was time to go over all the parts and clean everything up.
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I started cleaning the contact board first and then cleaned up the chassis and the temp wheel.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6688.JPG&hash=e9a64e2a3f1b5794956196b18401a9961472ed12)
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The front face plate chrome trim was chipped and worn. I fixed it with the chrome pen that I used on the upper dash bezels. I also polished the clear lens.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6691.JPG&hash=79bdee455a8870119e5f5a91926668f0a3463d1b)
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Reassembly was reverse of disassembly: circuit board and insulator mounted to the chassis, grease the slides and pivot points, install the contact bar, attach the front bezel, the vacuum ports, and the mode lever,
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6728.JPG&hash=8cbfcdf437c57acce17716b1fc94b595a61d97cb)
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Before I could put the temperature dial back in, I had to replace the worn felt piece on the front edge of the control plate.
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When you put the insulator in, make sure to get it as tight as possible around the wiring. If it stick up at all, it will rub on the back edge of the temperature dial.
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And here is the finished control unit:
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Next up was the cruise control switch. It was not as intricate as the HVAC head but still just as dirty, inside and out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6697.JPG&hash=fe6bd876899dc254989a98fcfe150b1ba2bae8b2)
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The clear face plate needed polishing and the chrome trim was faded. To get the best results with the chrome pen, remove the old chrome with lacquer thinner first so you have a nice smooth surface to work with.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6702.JPG&hash=4f0501e274cd98fe862965e072f92d7117eeaab3)
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With the chrome refreshed and the plastic face polished, I reassembled the switch assembly. I also cleaned up the switch itself, re-wrapped the wiring, and checked the bulbs and the function of the switch.
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I did the same process for the triple accessory switches that mount to the right of the instrument panel: disassemble, clean, refinish the chrome, polish the clear face, check for function, and then reassemble.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6705.JPG&hash=e830a089981b0f3e515f03fd3b3ea0f6818d6370)
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I neglected to take many pictures of the head light switch but it was the same process. Here are a few before shots and the final product.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6712.JPG&hash=2e831f943cc122af54f82a418b954632652936ec)
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All of these parts lead up to me being able to put the cast dash reinforcement frame back in. The last step before I could do that was the last of the body harnesses that were still not installed. They were the harnesses for the rear defroster, the trunk latch/pull down, and the tail lights. I think we are all getting tired of wiring harnesses at this point.
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After that mess was hooked up under the dash, I was able to mount the dash frame and all of the accessory switches.
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Wow. Nice.
Mitchell, do you check the electrical continuity for all of the switch gear? Just wondering if some of the electrical "rivet" connections are electrically connected on some of the circuit boards. You're doing an incredible job with this car, and I marvel at your patience and precision. Thank you for posting all of the pictures... makes my day, James
Quote from: James Landi on January 04, 2020, 10:23:40 AM
Mitchell, do you check the electrical continuity for all of the switch gear? Just wondering if some of the electrical "rivet" connections are electrically connected on some of the circuit boards. You're doing an incredible job with this car, and I marvel at your patience and precision. Thank you for posting all of the pictures... makes my day, James
Absolutely yes. I would hate to go to all of the trouble of cleaning up the switches and then find out it does not work. For the HVAC controller, I have a GM HVAC tester that I’ll use to make sure that everything is working properly and is calibrated correctly.
Cluster time. The instrument cluster was actually not that bad looking to start out with. The lens needed a bit of cleaning and you could see a bit of rust here and there and some cobwebs inside but overall in decent shape.
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I just started with the lens and worked my way all the way through the cluster taking things apart to clean and refurbish.
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There were a few foam pieces here and there and they just crumbled to dust if you touched them.
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I had to pull out the mechanism so I could get the trip meter reset knob out to repaint.
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There was also a little rust on the top edge of the black bezel.
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With everything cleaned up, it was time to put it all back together and replace the degraded foam inserts.
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The flexible circuit board had some lifted traces at the connector termination. I have some very thin industrial grade double sided tape that I used to reattach the traces.
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One of the interesting things that I noticed was that there was a 1/10 of a mile wheel on the odometer that is hidden when the bezel is in place. I'm not sure why the decision was made to cover it when it was already a part of the odometer assembly.
Back to the car itself. I installed the passenger side lower dash frame with the lower instrument panel, the glove box door, and the ash tray assembly. Once that part was in, I was able to install the drivers side lower dash frame and mounted the components that were mounted to that frame.
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With those pieces in, I mounted the trim panels on the drivers side of the dash.
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And then I mounted the lower knee panel and the passenger side trim panel.
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I need to put the radio and the driver side ducting in before I can put any more of the dash in. The radio itself needs some real TLC so that will be a little while before I can finish that. I may just skip it for a while and push on.
I also had a few minutes to play with my test steering wheel repair. I sanded the epoxy putty and then put a coat of filler primer on it to show the areas that still need more epoxy.
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Don't know if you saw my reference photo of the back of my instrument panel, but I had 2 socket colors, black (for 161 bulbs -- night backlighting) and light gray (for 194 bulbs, high beam and turn signals). Same color scheme was also used on the upper dash with the brighter 194 bulbs used for more severe warning lights.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with the steering wheel.
Quote from: hornetball on January 07, 2020, 03:45:12 PM
Don't know if you saw my reference photo of the back of my instrument panel, but I had 2 socket colors, black (for 161 bulbs -- night backlighting) and light gray (for 194 bulbs, high beam and turn signals). Same color scheme was also used on the upper dash with the brighter 194 bulbs used for more severe warning lights.
Looking forward to seeing what you do with the steering wheel.
Mine are like that also. The sockets are physically the same so either socket will work. I have a bunch of gray sockets from other projects so I just use them to replace either one and then just mark the ones that were black with a sharpie.
Quote from: MaR on January 07, 2020, 03:14:35 PM
One of the interesting things that I noticed was that there was a 1/10 of a mile wheel on the odometer that is hidden when the bezel is in place. I'm not sure why the decision was made to cover it when it was already a part of the odometer assembly.
I found that as well when I rebuilt the cluster in my '72 when converting it to Metric. Thought about opening up the slot to show the extra wheel, but considered against it, as I didn't have a second piece in case I stuffed it up.
Maybe when I rebuild it next time.
Bruce. >:D
PS. Maybe Cadillac thought that simply having the 1/10th mile wheel on the trip meter was sufficient. Or, the final designers thought it looked better as it was.
Quote from: MaR on January 07, 2020, 04:03:21 PMMine are like that also. The sockets are physically the same so either socket will work. I have a bunch of gray sockets from other projects so I just use them to replace either one and then just mark the ones that were black with a sharpie.
I see your sharpie marks now. I think you may have made a mistake as the lower-left bulb on the cluster (which ends up being right turn indicator when turned around) should be a gray/194.
Other thing I noticed is that the original bulbs used an internal glass blob color to differentiate between 194s (white blob -- gray socket) and 161s (blue blob -- black socket). Replacement bulbs don't have that feature.
Quote from: hornetball on January 08, 2020, 07:17:27 AM
I see your sharpie marks now. I think you may have made a mistake as the lower-left bulb on the cluster (which ends up being right turn indicator when turned around) should be a gray/194.
Other thing I noticed is that the original bulbs used an internal glass blob color to differentiate between 194s (white blob -- gray socket) and 161s (blue blob -- black socket). Replacement bulbs don't have that feature.
I think what you are seeing are just holes in the back of some of the sockets. The black marks I made are not really visible in those pics for some reason. I'll look at my old bulbs for those glass blobs, I could still make out the numbers so I really did not pay any attention to the insides.
A relatively prosaic question, and perhaps a philosophical/ ethical one as well, as follows: Your work is amazingly detailed and beautifully executed, and when you've painstakingly completed it, it will certainly be "as new" since all of the wear and service life related failures will have been replaced. Did you consider, when you had the odometer number wheels in your hand, to reset them to zero as a way to memorialize your meticulous restoration effort? I mention this because with restored old wooden motor, sailing yachts, and antique and vintage autos, the thoroughly restored item has both tremendous intrinsic and extrinsic value, as it is often, one of a kind that started its life as a production boat or car. I am surmising that your car will be worth way more than a low mileage well protected example that has NOT been restored and that could very well encounter major issues simply because many parts are, simply put, old. James
I dunno' about messing with odometers. Cars this age usually say odometer "exempt" on the title, but I'm not sure that gets you around the various tampering laws.
That said, this really shows the pragmatic value of having a build thread. It serves a purpose similar to a restoration/project logbook. In this case, we know exactly the mileage, date and quality of work related to this restoration based upon pictures and posts. That's one of the reasons I made a thread too. I also value reader feedback since I don't have the extensive knowledge on these cars that many here possess.
Quote from: James Landi on January 08, 2020, 04:25:56 PM
A relatively prosaic question, and perhaps a philosophical/ ethical one as well, as follows: Your work is amazingly detailed and beautifully executed, and when you've painstakingly completed it, it will certainly be "as new" since all of the wear and service life related failures will have been replaced. Did you consider, when you had the odometer number wheels in your hand, to reset them to zero as a way to memorialize your meticulous restoration effort? I mention this because with restored old wooden motor, sailing yachts, and antique and vintage autos, the thoroughly restored item has both tremendous intrinsic and extrinsic value, as it is often, one of a kind that started its life as a production boat or car. I am surmising that your car will be worth way more than a low mileage well protected example that has NOT been restored and that could very well encounter major issues simply because many parts are, simply put, old. James
I could have, the fun of seeing the first few miles roll on the odometer would be an interesting experience but ultimately I (and by extension everyone here) would know the truth. This car will never be a show piece. It’s not the right year for the ultimate in collectivity, it has had some accident damage and panels replaced, and what I want out of if it will look period correct but it won’t be anything that you could have actually bought from a dealership. I enjoy the restoration aspect, and the added bonus is having a nice example of the car that I want in the end.
I had a few minutes to put the upper and middle dash pad back in. I mostly wanted to put them in to get them out of harms way. I'm always worried that I'll mess them up when they are sitting around not in the car.
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I really wish they fit better but I that's about as good as they will get. I still need to finish up the vents and install the wiper switch.
Speaking of wiper switches, it's one of the last things that goes on the dash that needs to be cleaned up. The wiper switch has to be the worst cosmetic condition part on the dash. The clear plastic bezel has numerous cracks, the chrome bezel is in poor condition and most of the chrome has worn off the face.
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A while ago, I purchased a very nice wiper switch from Charles here on the forum. Unfortunately, there are two different versions of the switches and the plugs were different. Rather than cutting the wires and splicing on the correct plugs, I opted to salvage the good parts from the replacement switch to rebuilt my current one. One of the biggest reasons was that the slider action on my existing switch was actually smoother than the replacement one; it's unlikely that mine was driven very often in the rain is my assumption. Here is the replacement switch:
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And here is the difference in the plugs. The upper set is what is on my switch and the lower plug is what is on the replacement.
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Here is the replacement clear face:
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I used the handy chrome pen to refresh the black and chrome portion of the old face:
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And here is the switch reassembled and the wiring pigtail re-wrapped. I used most of the parts from the replacement switch and the old switch control board and harness.
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Once I get the switch back in, I need to work on the wiper motor itself. The motor works but something made a horrible crunching sound so either the pump for the washers died or something on the pulse mechanism self destructed.
The next step of the dash reassembly is to work on the vents. Two of my vent assemblies have broken louvers on the chrome frame so I acquired a pair of very nice ones from Charles here on the forum. I started out by salvaging what I could of one of the foam dampers on the side of one of the vents so I could reproduce it.
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Next was to completely disassemble the vents so all of the pieces could be completely cleaned and polished as needed.
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Here is a before and after of the polishing on the chrome frames.
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And all the parts after they have been cleaned and dried.
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I made replacement foam dampers for all of the vents. The dampers give the vent some resistance in it's housing so it will stay where you position it. If your vents flop around, your foam dampers have disintegrated.
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Out of the 6 adjustment levers I have, I picked out the best four and cleaned them up. The black line in the middle was gone from most of the levers and after polishing, just about all of the black lines were gone. After I cleaned them up, I repainted the lines (with a toothpick).
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6882.JPG&hash=219c92dedf047c26c49caed6e3dfdcf68221d08b)
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And here they are all assembled. I still want to replace a few of the levers as some of them are flaking chrome. Next time I go to the junk yard, I'll get a few. I think Cadillac used these same vents for many, many years so getting extra parts should not be hard.
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The map light had melted and disintegrated but I managed to find a few spares in my local classic junkyard. They were both in usable condition but not perfect. Since you don't really see it though, I'm not terribly concerned if it's not perfect. The map lights I found were from '75 or '76 models so they did not have the black edge or mask on the face. It's just painted on so it was easy to reproduce.
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Now I can (almost) finish putting parts back on the dash. I started with the wiper controls and the vents.
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Next was to install the map light. After it was installed, It seems to sag a bit. I have seen other cars of this design with the issue so I'm assuming that the mount is warped, possibly from the heat of the bulb. When I take the middle dash back out when I paint, I'll see if I can find the cause of the misalignment.
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I also put the glove box light back together and then tested all the dash courtesy lights. As you can see, the map light is pointed more toward the dash than the passenger so something is up with the mounting points.
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Here is the dash with all of the controls lit up. I'll have to do something about the lack of uniformity of the control illumination. Some things like the headlight and accessory controls have blue filters built in but the wipers, cruise and climate controls have no filters. I would prefer to have everything uniform. That's a project for another day though...
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One last thing, on the '74, the interior door pulls are long straps that have a tendency to rip off the upper door panels and break the chrome bezel in the process. I never liked them on my '74 CDV I had years ago and I still don't like them now. When I acquired my replacement lower door panels a while back, I also got a set of the upper panels (I think from a '78). Growing tired of the constantly flopping drivers side pull strap, I just installed the the drivers side panel as is, no cleaning, no restoration, and finally, no flopping. I'll reupholster it later...
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Such incredible work pays off in details that bespeak "as new" fit, feel, and look. Having owned dozens of well used Cadillacs, I often was simply glad to have everything working, to have the outside looking good enough to pass a 15 foot test, and to have my eyes not rest on the worn out soft goods and cracked interior panels. It's so great to see your efforts pay off in those close up photos you post... bellissimo! James
Quote from: James Landi on January 22, 2020, 05:34:46 PM
Such incredible work pays off in details that bespeak "as new" fit, feel, and look. Having owned dozens of well used Cadillacs, I often was simply glad to have everything working, to have the outside looking good enough to pass a 15 foot test, and to have my eyes not rest on the worn out soft goods and cracked interior panels. It's so great to see your efforts pay off in those close up photos you post... bellissimo! James
Thanks for the good word! My goal all along is to just have a good solid driver that looks as good as reasonably possible and document what I'm doing along the way so others might have some questions answered that they might not find info on elsewhere.
Here is a part that has been floating around for a while that I finally finished up; a rather crusty passenger side lower seat trim panel:
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Now for something a bit more in depth. It's time to work on the power seat racks. They "sort of" both work but under great strain and the drivers side controls have wiring issues. Both racks are quite rusty, very dirty, and just quite tired overall. I've started with the drivers side rack but both racks appear to be identical. One of the things that I am changing is the tabs that hold the bolt covers. On the '74, there appear to just be tabs in one or two ends and on the later racks, they had tabs on all four ends so I will be swapping out parts to add the tabs to mount the later style larger bolt covers. On to the grunge!
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Right off the bat I took the motor and transmission assembly off of the rack actuators. Being that they lived under the seat, they are probably the dirtiest thing in the interior of the car. Surprisingly, I had no problems getting the cables off of the actuators or the transmission.
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With the rack separated, I took off all the actuators and then separated the rack slider from the upper rack. Several of those red guides in the last pic were broken and falling apart. I found some replacements in my local junkyard but apparently it's common for them to fail.
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Here are the first rack pieces that I test sand blasted. It's imperative that all the blasting media be removed from the rack before you put it back together or it can bind up.
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I also cleaned up all the fasteners.
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Here are the lift actuators. The front and rear are different and the center posts look similar, but they are different also so be sure to not mix them up when you put them back together. I cleaned out all the old grease and grime and then thoroughly regreased the actuators.
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The front end cap on the motor is welded in place and I did not want to grind it apart. I tried a different rust removing product that is made to stick on difficult surfaces. It seem to work well enough but I did have to sand it in a few places in the end. One advantage of that material is that it will not damage most stickers.
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Next up was to break down the transmission and regrease it. It was quite clean inside and mostly just the outer case needed cleaning.
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I next cleaned up the actuator cables and then mounted them to the transmission
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For the forward/rearward actuators, they are peened together and I did not wand to break them taking them apart. There is what I though was a greasing hole so I used that to flush out the old grease and then refilled it with new through the same hole.
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I acquired a nice sized syringe to squirt the grease in with. It proved to be very useful later on...
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This actuator had been run to the stop so many times that the housing was bent. I replaced it with a spare from another rack.
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The relay had a little bit of surface rust that cleaned off easily.
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I mounted the rebuilt actuators to the refinished racks, the motor and transmission to the cross plate, and then reassembled the entire rack with the motor and transmission. Now I just need to do the passenger side.
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I see you do this stuff in socks! ;)
My stuff was a lot cleaner, but I did pull apart the transmission and clean/regrease. I thought it was interesting that the factory left these pieces as bare metal. Yours will last a lot longer now with that black primer on it. It'll keep the rust off the carpet too.
I always took working power seats for granted until the years of "downsizing" when all of those high stress transmission housings and casing were manufactured in plastic instead of metal. On newer models from the 80's, the transmission housings break apart because the plastic simply becomes brittle. I owned several '80's Cadillacs where I simply adjusted the seat for the two of us and then disconnected the power to the seat fearing that someone would engage it, and then I'd be forever stuck in an uncomfortable driving position. As the saying goes, "They don't make 'em like that anymore." Thanks for posting--- always look forward to seeing your progress. Happy day, James
Quote from: hornetball on February 11, 2020, 06:51:42 AM
I see you do this stuff in socks! ;)
My stuff was a lot cleaner, but I did pull apart the transmission and clean/regrease. I thought it was interesting that the factory left these pieces as bare metal. Yours will last a lot longer now with that black primer on it. It'll keep the rust off the carpet too.
If I'm working indoors, I'm going to be comfortable! I think I'm going to glue a piece of vinyl on the underside of the rack feet to keep them from ever getting stuck to the carpet.
Quote from: James Landi on February 11, 2020, 07:48:07 AM
I always took working power seats for granted until the years of "downsizing" when all of those high stress transmission housings and casing were manufactured in plastic instead of metal. On newer models from the 80's, the transmission housings break apart because the plastic simply becomes brittle. I owned several '80's Cadillacs where I simply adjusted the seat for the two of us and then disconnected the power to the seat fearing that someone would engage it, and then I'd be forever stuck in an uncomfortable driving position. As the saying goes, "They don't make 'em like that anymore." Thanks for posting--- always look forward to seeing your progress. Happy day, James
You could see a little of this between the '76 Talisman seats and the '74 Eldorado seats. That metal seat trim that holds the seat controls that I posted just above the seat rack post is a plastic part on the Talisman seat.
Quote from: James Landi on February 11, 2020, 07:48:07 AMAs the saying goes, "They don't make 'em like that anymore."
I've got a '94 Corvette, and the quality difference between it and the '74 Eldo is dramatic. And it's not just metal vs. plastic. Some pieces on the Eldo are plastic too, but it is a much higher quality plastic that is still pliable and can retain fasteners. On the Corvette, if I look at it funny it'll break. And the Corvette is just as much a low-mileage garage-queen as the Eldo.
Oh well.
To continue on with the seat rack theme, I pulled the rack from the passenger side Talisman seat. I knew that it would be different from all of the other seat racks that I have because the Talisman seat has power recline. Since it does not have a dedicated switch (or motor) for the recline, the front tilt switch work the recline feature and the front is fixed on the seat rack. Since I want to have full 6 way motion on the seat rack on my final product, I won't be using the 4 way rack at all. I do plan on retaining the power recline if possible so I'll just leave the actuator disconnected for now. Here is the underside of the passenger Talisman seat, the cable that goes from the seat transmission to the seat back actuator and the rack itself.
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The seat switches also needed a bit of going over also. They are much more "restoration friendly" than the window switches as they can actually be disassembled without breaking them. They were not that bad overall but they had rust stains from the seat trim and the drivers side has some corroded pins. What I found odd was that the driver side switch had a much larger flange than the passenger side one, but both them could physically be mounted on either side. Here is what they looked like as removed:
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The circuit board is retained by these little clips that can be popped out with a small screw driver:
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And here is the inside with the circuit board removed:
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Here are all the pieces cleaned up (drivers side) and ready to assemble:
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The plastic carrier for all the controls. It just sits inside the metal housing.
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The circuit board is keyed so it will only fit in one way.
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And with all the clips in, everything is retained and ready to install.
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I recently acquired an "untested" power antenna for a fairly good deal. The thing that interested me was that the mast looked to be complete. When it finally arrived, I tested it out and it tried to work but it just could not extend the mast. I greased it up the best I could but it still needed help to extend or retract. Since my antenna that came with the car seems to work other than the broken off mast, I decided to take it apart and see what made it tick and if it was reparable. It seems that there is very little info on the web about this style of antenna and the service manual is not much help. I started by pulling the "automatic" part of the cover off.
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As you can see, there is a little red gear than controls a switch. Here is what turns the gear:
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For each revolution of the pin, it moves the red gear one step. Once the red gear has made 3/4 of a revolution, it would switch off either the up or down circuit depending on the direction the red gear rotated. The part with the pin is actually a nut that holds the clutch assembly together. The clutch has a spring loaded set of balls that turn the clutch plate. When there is too much resistance on the clutch plate, the balls will pop over two humps on the plate and "slip" around 180° until they hit the humps again. The clutch plate has teeth on the outside that grip the antenna cable and push or pull the antenna up or down.
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Under the clutch plate there is the middle housing for the antenna. This has a guide for the antenna cable to route it to the chamber than that spools up the antenna cable. On the other side of the middle housing, it has the back of the gear reduction housing. All of these parts were caked with old grease that was binding up everything.
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I then removed the antenna from the middle housing. That required the antenna lead to be unsoldered from the jack on the side of the tube and then then antenna assembly could be removed completely. I then removed all the guides and cleaned all the grease and debris from inside them.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7175.JPG&hash=66e2dade086191b3e480e97166af158739eac98f)
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After I got the middle housing cleaned up, I realized that housing itself was just about completely worn out. It was so worn in fact that it actually had a hole worn though the housing in one spot from the antenna cable. I opted to then just salvage the antenna mast and install it into my existing antenna assembly. Here are a few shots of the wear between the two parts.
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Another thing to note was that the worn antennas gear box was full of the same orange/yellow grease that just about everything else in the car is greased with. In my antenna, it was full of molybdenum disulfide and it was it perfect condition and did not need to be replaced.
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It all went back together smoothly, and for some reason, I did not take any pics of the finished antenna. I'll take a few and edit this post later.
So much hardware, and then the development of the embedded antenna in the early '70's that was not considered very effective, and now, cars have embedded antennas yet again. Great pictures and narrative, thanks, James
And here is the missing finished pic of the antenna:
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Looks great. I recall the first day my Dad brought his first Cadillac home, a 56, and he demonstrated the antenna,along with everything else, on his "loaded sedan de Ville." I was amazed, as a ten year old. And when I went to college, he gave me that car. Even in the mid-60's, most of my peers had never experienced auto a/c, electric windows, power bench seat, and the crowning glory, the antenna, and foot operated station seeking radio. Cadillac was certainly king in those days. I loved that car, and, frankly, the many Cadillacs I have owned and enjoyed. Thanks for your postings, James
Many thanks for your report about the repair of power seats mechanism. I used it as manual to clean and regrease mine 6-way in 1982 cadillac.
Interesting - the mechanism in 1982 is exactly the same, but many details are replaced by plastic analogues, for example, the case.
Quote from: ant2173 on March 11, 2020, 04:28:29 AM
Many thanks for your report about the repair of power seats mechanism. I used it as manual to clean and regrease mine 6-way in 1982 cadillac.
Interesting - the mechanism in 1982 is exactly the same, but many details are replaced by plastic analogues, for example, the case.
It also seems as if most of the parts were used for many years previous to '74.
Well, I have been busy with the '74 but I just have not finished the things that I'm working on to the point where I can post them. Here is something I am wrapping up right now though. Like most of these cars, the hood hinges are sloppy. The ones that were one the car had been "repaired" by the previous owner to the point where it took two people to shut the hood. I acquired a pair of decent but still worn hinges to at least make the hood functional and now it's time to get them properly sorted out.
I started with a spare hinge that was in typical condition with about half an inch of side to side play with the spring removed. There should be zero side to side play as that kind of wear is what makes the back of the hood stick up when it's closed. The previous owner of this hinge was also gracious enough to prime it but they skipped the prep work step and just sprayed over dirt, grease, and everything.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7262.JPG&hash=a4dfe405f8edf86ab40a443954fc7ffa47d35b09)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7263.JPG&hash=531b4a6e4ccf9485ee061c85b3d5243cb974d4e8)
The main failure mode of these hinges is the rivets wearing out, either with the peened head wearing, the axle section wearing, or both. The only real fix is to replace the rivets as just hammering them tighter will just fail again in a short period of time.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7264.JPG&hash=fa3eba73369948c8b02170ca84b2cdeb5b16297c)
I drilled out all the rivets, checked all the holes for roundness, and cleaned up any burrs around the holes. After that, I sandblasted all the parts and gave them all a nice coat of paint.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7265.JPG&hash=b1db3c5f7453c826b045b842a1e4f243ce286607)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7266.JPG&hash=ab656996a4de9e602ed8bf828d9f7efa53c801ca)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7270.JPG&hash=611d4483c68c387bf96d9dccd3b7480cbbc7e940)
I opted rather than making more rivets to make some custom shoulder bolts and bolt the joints together. This way, if they were to wear again, I can easily rebuild them. All of the fasteners are stainless steel and I used Delrin plastic washers between the rotating parts for smooth operation without the need for grease. I used a locking jam nut to hold it all together.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7360.JPG&hash=7800977378bdd4f8c6b294557e80eb07cb62d398)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7361.JPG&hash=0410dec2343701e24d0244ad44b404e28541645a)
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The operation of the hinge is now perfectly smooth with zero side to side play. The Delrin washer are designed for this kind of load and application so they should last indefinitely. The only modification I had to make to the hinge was to take about 1/16" off of the corner of one of the linkages where it was bumping into the head of one of the bolts. Other than that, everything else cleared with no issues. Now all I need to do is add the spring and install it on the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7365.JPG&hash=aa367654e00c27084f6dbac437df2908950ed352)
Another project I needed to progress on is getting the Talisman front console mounted. I had originally planned on making a bracket that would bolt under the inner seat brackets but it turned out that mounting it in that style was just not the right route to go. Instead, I needed to make an adapter pedestal ring to adapt the bottom of the console to the floorpan of the Eldorado. It also brings the height of the console up to make up for the lack of the center hump. The first thing I needed to do is repair the damage that someone had done to the floor of the storage compartment. I also needed to strip down the upholstery to prepare it for reupholstery and to be able to fix the damage.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7278.JPG&hash=f38353c33b3f74510d16e532ad4fafdd630ae672)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7279.JPG&hash=c440c2f58ed50a6ecc1bdf609ed9b7b764f49c93)
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After removing the upholstery, I was able to split the console in half where the factory seam is so I could repair the floor of the storage compartment.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7309.JPG&hash=07cb837d3108f97a5d22221d9fd03dc000691999)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7315.JPG&hash=423ee0a6f54886e053d19ccf7c7dfc8c085db288)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7333.JPG&hash=03d00faafe78974650a0b2dc8e2e1331001cf9bb)
The body of the console seems to be a gel coat shell with a rigid foam as the structure. It shapes easily and I was able to just sand down the rough cuts. I replaced the missing floor with some melamine coated MDF. I screwed the MDF pieces in and then filled the gaps with epoxy.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7334.JPG&hash=0dcc8a66d914007423bb93ada553ed10c5a4f4b5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7335.JPG&hash=00167c245e36b46bc335681e17d8476c16a080a4)
After that, I made an adapter ring out of MDF that matched the contour of the bottom of console and the contour of the floor pan. It also is spaced up a bit to raise the console up to the proper height.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7366.JPG&hash=aa94570bb11a2c1972c776d0b56ca1a619e56771)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7349.JPG&hash=b0aa295ea2ceca45b7707e9574ca08cbf718dcfa)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7350.JPG&hash=412c7873d21f69e8ffc5ba1cf0bd4848711b5093)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7351.JPG&hash=161888932537052fbeb3d6bde85fb9721881c91c)
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Next up will be to attach the ring to the console, notch it out at the rear for seat belt clearance, attach mounting brackets to bolt it to the floorpan, and then reupholster the entire unit. Since it now it much taller than it was in the Fleetwood application, I will probably add some carpet to the lower part in a similar style to the door panels.
Great work as always. I can't wait to see your finished interior.
This has been a great restoration to follow. I (Mr. Badwrench) have seen so many components of an Eldo repaired and restored that I found it more entertaining than Netflix binging. I don't know if I would/could ever tackle any of these jobs on my own but if I do I have this as a great reference. I can't wait to see the finished car.
Tom
Entirely agree with the prior posts-- this project has been terrific to follow-- the detailed work, and restoration are inspiring, and love the pictures. And this model Eldorado is a stunningly beautiful. Happy day, James
A nice weekend and no place to go to is prime caddy work time! I started out by pulling the hood and removing the other hood hinge to rebuild it. This time, I took more pics of the disassembly and new bolt installation. Here is the hinge before the spring was removed. With the spring on, it felt solid. With it removed, there was about 1/2" of twisting play.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7387.JPG&hash=57d8636815007c3db6330062013b8b4616bbc8b9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7389.JPG&hash=3b379c0c1af2fcf9cd2c7eb3b41c4ad0184747a4)
To get the old rivets out, the head on one side has to be removed. Sometimes you can successful drill them out but most of the time you need a combination of drilling and grinding to be sure to not damage the bore on the arms. Once the head is ground off, you can simply punch out the rivet.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7392.JPG&hash=56373e2dec286fa450437dfc10d24d71a2ceab31)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7393.JPG&hash=5d9edf84777145fc35c1669e6f039de9f048b1e9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7394.JPG&hash=2772862aff8b99373469af7f3be5f2930a2f33d5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7395.JPG&hash=485530bd681745b22f98fa4199e02ec0f2aca14a)
Once the hinge is apart, I took the opportunity clean it up and also make sure the bores in all the parts are the correct size and there are no burrs.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7396.JPG&hash=eeac1645c4e30fb22d63d785ba4b2e63680804c6)
I made a slight change to the parts for ease of assembly on this hinge, I swapped out the smaller washer with a precision shim so it would fit the bolt better and not hang over the edge of the Delrin washer. Here you can see the stackup of parts. Note: I missed the shot where I showed the Delrin washer going on between the two different parts.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7418.JPG&hash=950d40a5ba1708fa4324d7f4a61812ec97f98434)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7419.JPG&hash=be900bf48192b64e5b83d15a0957c61bdc2a8153)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7416.JPG&hash=943a8b3220ed729a7bcb629046502c8c58aacc83)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7420.JPG&hash=b923ee1520ba6877ecc6e9b464ca5f5bd4536ee2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7421.JPG&hash=91027d9e87a698766ccbf8f573786bcf2e88dff6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7422.JPG&hash=5ef92ab045c4022d90d142668a814ce9dc0ca21c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7424.JPG&hash=65eca01bc2150eebb3174cd75d26c3a509294fb3)
And the finished hinge:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7426.JPG&hash=fc3ae99bb607c75c6d465dddd8bf47e583d0e18c)
With the hood off and hinges out of the way, there were a bunch of "might as wells" that needed to be done. I started by pulling off the engine bay side of the HVAC box.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7399.JPG&hash=86b6103744e78d92b65b59bfa38e078ada57789a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7403.JPG&hash=0229bde34ef6ad67057842a92cf50cb96ff09c24)
The metal parts inside had surface rust all over them and there seemed to be a mouse nest inside the evaporator case.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7409.JPG&hash=c1df369d7134d376d61e97d0dc8fcd0041026eac)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7408.JPG&hash=deda6c6a43129d82e99ef31f46bd2a0dc5140190)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7407.JPG&hash=d26f4de9c95e6691a96a0c3975adf4a1a29a16ea)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7406.JPG&hash=ed09bde737b161779b0114b68fe928925d618928)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7405.JPG&hash=07e8eef4e1de58f62199dd0560dea37c6739711c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7404.JPG&hash=7336871553d20257aff82d0e1c077b1b87a41c7c)
I got everything cleaned up, sandblasted the metal parts, gave the raw metal a quick spray and then put it all back together.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7414.JPG&hash=12bd3610f4123b07c460567df62e3691fa13b043)
The other thing I took care of was the rotten seam sealer on the top edge of the firewall. It almost just fell out so it made clean up easy. I neglected to take a pic of the finished product but I'll add one in later. The worst part of this was me sticking my hand in the wet seam sealer over and over again...
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7411.JPG&hash=8af6e405828d8b6563a3bb004a654253fe22586e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7412.JPG&hash=c97c95cc9f4039c4b8adffa314e88e755d7514e0)
Nice!
Did you create those bolts on your own lathe?
Best regards,
Nicolas
I worked on the Talisman center console mounting also. I notched the sides for seat belt buckle clearance and worked on making the actual console mounting brackets.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7367.JPG&hash=3fed07920915bafa449da1d64e34e73413eb7f11)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7368.JPG&hash=61a4650800b8ec0ee373168dae8ed5e8d4ca366b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7379.JPG&hash=eb2496737c93df2253c5223dd3038a54784b4e6d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7380.JPG&hash=11e7f4d690a1b5cd82ee9294d008760c00028309)
Next up will be to cut the slots for the actual console mounting bolts for the console in the brackets.
Quote from: DeVille68 on March 30, 2020, 03:34:55 PM
Nice!
Did you create those bolts on your own lathe?
Best regards,
Nicolas
I took off the shelf stainless steel shoulder bolts and then turned them down to add the extra step and the proper threads. I'm considering making them as a kit for DIYers to rebuild their own hinges. If I do that, I'll have them CNC tuned from scratch and put a hex head on them rather than the hex socket that's in them now.
Now for the real fun part. It's getting to be convertible weather where I live and I just can't stand the bare metal floor anymore. On top of that, the butyl sound deadener I put down is started to get squished out a bit and making a mess when I drive it. Me having to clean my wife's shoes every time we take a ride in it is starting to get old. I bought a molded carpet from ACC (though Rockauto). They don't have the perfect color match I would prefer but what they offer is really close. I chose the upgrade Essex cut pile material and used the standard backing. I have used their mass backing option before and I don't really like it from a fitment standpoint. Their carpet comes with jute padding in select areas already attached to the carpet. On top of that, I added two layers of butyl/aluminium sound deadener and then a 1/2" layer of jute padding on top of that. That was about as close as I could get to replicate the factory style sound deadener and padding but with modern materials. Here is the bare floor after a quick vacuuming:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7381.JPG&hash=6180a85e83a86111588c41731ffb82775bda4369)
And after application of the butyl sound deadener. I put two layers on the main floorboard and then ran one layer under the rear seat and up the rear division for the trunk. Later, I will apply the material under the door panels and on the side walls. of the rear seat area.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7382.JPG&hash=0a88d9dd76659a4a90992a97252db7bc213c5d5f)
Next, I cut the jute padding to go over the entire floor pan. I did the entire floor to keep the contours of the pan from changing so much that the molded carpet would still fit correctly. Side note: I had to go back and cut out much larger openings for the seat rack feet as the padding was so thick that you could not start the nuts on the seat rack studs.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7383.JPG&hash=09c341e04655270f213496afd81c45ffc8e1e3fc)
And here is the first test fit of the carpet. It fit fairly well with the only issue being that the bumps that are on the door thresholds just forward of the seat belt mounts were not molded into the carpet. All of the holes where pre-marked on the back side and were accurately placed. The only one I had to adjust was the location of the dimmer switch. I just moved the dimmer switch to fit the carpet.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7384.JPG&hash=bdefb6277ae0ec202a92094457e39070504353f1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7429.JPG&hash=e623c2485e89ed8f0f82b992cf6270923639a797)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7428.JPG&hash=4c3715681e8b66311f35343e4cf5c64048031cde)
I cut all the holes and then used the seat belt buckles to anchor the carpet down while I prepared the seats to be installed.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7427.JPG&hash=59f29dce2cfc4f5cdb4e6ff63078516542f99f30)
With the seats in, I had to do a little manual fitting with a heat gun to get it to fit over the humps on the door jams. There was also a little rippling here and there where the seat racks distorted the carpet. The first shot is before I fitted it and the second one is after I fitted it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7437.JPG&hash=5ba6f0622a43f73420a40ab1a13f39a064287a60)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7438.JPG&hash=7e7fb1fb96ca0e2046acd3f603623edf7fbd044e)
To keep the carpet in place, all the trim around the edges needs to be installed. I pulled the aluminium door threshold trim off the car over a year ago and had not touched it since. They looked really bad and I was not about to install them as is. I cleaned them up, knocked out the most obnoxious dents and gave them a quick once over on the buffing wheel. I was considering replacing them with reproductions but I think with a little more hammer and dolly work, they can be saved and even look nice.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7430.JPG&hash=61533a4284db011f41002142410d9908aa715546)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7431.JPG&hash=d7fa4563e4c5601daec0e8fb5fe5bc34d2bec2e8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7432.JPG&hash=3519e5494c085ebd047408b5cc64d1f693a20bb9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7433.JPG&hash=cef8f685dcc94e8ede9ed9176a867d91768479a1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7434.JPG&hash=71cdb622b246d6482d3923132c2c187a2911f0bb)
The end result turned out quite nice if I don't say so myself:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7443.JPG&hash=0e5a37ab04a2c4e46214b45762cf6766ffdd801a)
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Another side note: it's officially pollen season here. This is from leaving the car outside for the afternoon, that's not a reflection....
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Looks great Mitch. The carpet color looks like a nice match. Are you going to upholster the seats in crushed velour?
Quote from: hornetball on March 30, 2020, 05:50:08 PM
Looks great Mitch. The carpet color looks like a nice match. Are you going to upholster the seats in crushed velour?
I toyed with the idea and even got a fabric sample but being that it's a convertible, I came to the conclusion that it would get horribly dirty in no time at all. I'm going to keep the Talisman upholstery style but do the upholstery in white polyurethane Ultra Leather material. It's the same kind of material that's used in open top boats and on personal jets so it will do just fine in this application without the worry of it getting ruined from caught in a sudden rain storm.
Bellissimo Mitch!.. especially like your idea for the marine grade vinyl seats. Will be durable and very attractive. What's the status with the engine and drive train? Thanks for posting, James
Quote from: James Landi on March 31, 2020, 07:50:06 AM
Bellissimo Mitch!.. especially like your idea for the marine grade vinyl seats. Will be durable and very attractive. What's the status with the engine and drive train? Thanks for posting, James
Other than a few leaks that I have not addressed yet, the refresh I did seems to be working OK. I need to reseal the rear transmission pan but I have not quite worked out how to do it without removing the drivetrain from the car.
There's been some good discussion of leaks recently--- one member brought his back to the transmission repair service several times-- seemed to be consensus that "they all leak a little." I owned a '67 Eldorado for many years, and simply carried a piece of cardboard in the trunk when I was obliged to park on someone's decoratively paved driveway. As my old man used to say," if you're looking for perfection, you;ll need to wait for heaven." Thanks again for posting-- truly inspiring to observe your progress and magnificent craftsmanship Happy day, James
Looks great!
Once you and Mr. Price are done with your cars, I've got a 77 Town Car you can come work on!
Quote from: James Landi on March 31, 2020, 09:54:42 AM
There's been some good discussion of leaks recently--- one member brought his back to the transmission repair service several times-- seemed to be consensus that "they all leak a little." I owned a '67 Eldorado for many years, and simply carried a piece of cardboard in the trunk when I was obliged to park on someone's decoratively paved driveway. As my old man used to say," if you're looking for perfection, you;ll need to wait for heaven." Thanks again for posting-- truly inspiring to observe your progress and magnificent craftsmanship Happy day, James
I can live with a few drips here and there but the rear pan is really leaking badly. Enough so that I had to put one of those 4 foot long absorbent socks in my 2'x3' drip pan to keep it from getting too deep.
I've discovered with my 85 Convertible Eldorado, that once I start driving it, the transmission leaks all be disappeared. I am clueless as to why that is, but during winter storage, I'd have a turkey roasting pan under the transmission, and I'd reclaim about a quart of oil over the winter!
Although,There's likely little that the two vehicles have in common though!
Quote from: James Landi on March 31, 2020, 11:31:48 AM
I've discovered with my 85 Convertible Eldorado, that once I start driving it, the transmission leaks all be disappeared. I am clueless as to why that is, but during winter storage, I'd have a turkey roasting pan under the transmission, and I'd reclaim about a quart of oil over the winter!
Although,There's likely little that the two vehicles have in common though!
My first job is to really clean up the underside of the engine/transmission so I can pinpoint the leak(s). It did slow down quite a bit when I replaced the bottom pan gasket so at least it's a start...
Considering that your hood is off and that's the worst part of pulling the power unit . . . . Just sayin'.
Quote from: hornetball on March 31, 2020, 02:50:03 PM
Considering that your hood is off and that's the worst part of pulling the power unit . . . . Just sayin'.
The hood
was off...
Quote from: MaR on March 30, 2020, 03:39:46 PM
I took off the shelf stainless steel shoulder bolts and then turned them down to add the extra step and the proper threads. I'm considering making them as a kit for DIYers to rebuild their own hinges. If I do that, I'll have them CNC tuned from scratch and put a hex head on them rather than the hex socket that's in them now.
Nice work!
And, great idea with the fasteners. Well, let us know in the forum if you do that. I have already planned this rebuild for the next winter.
A leaking transmission while driving would be caused by the vent tube being blocked, pushing fluid through other areas like the pan gasket. Most mechanics forget to check the vent.
Best regards,
Nicolas
Quote from: DeVille68 on April 04, 2020, 02:30:13 AM
Nice work!
And, great idea with the fasteners. Well, let us know in the forum if you do that. I have already planned this rebuild for the next winter.
A leaking transmission while driving would be caused by the vent tube being blocked, pushing fluid through other areas like the pan gasket. Most mechanics forget to check the vent.
Best regards,
Nicolas
I'll check my vent tube.
Here are the pics that were missing from my previous post. The hood hinges installed and the seam sealer on the top lip of the cowl.
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I pulled all the the stainless steel trim from the windshield so I can polish it. The reveal over the top edge has a dent in it so it will be a little while before I can fix it. I polished all the other pieces and reinstalled what I could.
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Here is the result after polishing:
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The main reason to polish the windshield trim was so that I can reinstall the interior windshield trim. I started out by cleaning up the top latch retainers/sunvisor mounts.
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I also had made a new power wire for the illuminated passenger side visor.
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I test fit the passenger side mount to see how to route the wire.
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Then I attached the mounts to the interior header trim and bolted everything in place. The mounts have to attach to the trim first and then the assembly is mounted to the windshield frame.
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With the frame mounted, I then installed the A pillar trim.
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While I was working on the windshield trim, I was also getting the Talisman console brackets ready to mount. I had previously constructed the floor pan adapter and made the floor mounting brackets. Now I gave the adapter a few coats of oil based paint to waterproof it.
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Here it is, in place with the brackets installed on the floor. with everything in it's correct location. I marked the location of the console mounting slots on brackets.
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With the mounting slots from the console marked I then made slots in the brackets. The console has horizontal slots for for and aft adjustment so my bracket slots are vertical to give me up and down adjustment.
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I'm using the same style of clip nuts that everything else in the car is put together with. If they can hold the car together, they will work for my console as well.
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With the bracket painted, I installed them to the floor.
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I then attached the floor pan adapter to the Talisman console.
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Next was to bolt the console in. Since the mounting bolts may be exposed in the end, I opted for some stainless steel bolts that I polished.
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And here is the console shell bolted in place. I also installed the sunvisors.
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In the Talisman application, the console sits on the large transmission tunnel and the console itself is upholstered to match the seats. Since I had to make a riser for it to mount properly in the Eldorado, I'm probably going to carpet the lower section of the console in the same style that the door panels are done in: a strip of carpet along the bottom with a stainless reveal molding between the carpet and the upper upholstery.
Quote from: MaR on April 08, 2020, 02:32:35 PMI also had made a new power wire for the illuminated passenger side visor.
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Did you make that? I need a fresh one. RCA jacks are easy to find, but I was having a bit of trouble sourcing the braid.
Quote from: hornetball on April 08, 2020, 04:38:29 PM
Did you make that? I need a fresh one. RCA jacks are easy to find, but I was having a bit of trouble sourcing the braid.
It came from a shielded coaxial cable. I pulled the outer jacket off and it was
very close to the factory wire underneath.
Quote from: MaR on April 08, 2020, 07:14:55 PM
It came from a shielded coaxial cable. I pulled the outer jacket off and it was very close to the factory wire underneath.
Huh. Thought about doing that, but I was running into really light gauges for the inner (power) wire. I'll need to keep looking.
Quote from: hornetball on April 08, 2020, 07:52:39 PM
Huh. Thought about doing that, but I was running into really light gauges for the inner (power) wire. I'll need to keep looking.
Well, both bulbs might consume 10 watts total so even a light gauge wire should be just fine.
I have been playing around with restoring a steering wheel for a little while now, trying different methods and experimenting with different materials. I have a method now that I feel like will last for a while so I pulled my wheel off and started working on it. It has two full cracks, one at 12:00 and one at 6:00. There are also two small crack starting on the rear of the wheel. The inlay face is almost completely missing and the support is cracked is several places. I started by removing all of the old inlay, cleaning up wheel and then removing it from the car.
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I then scuffed up the wheel and opened up the two cracks that had just started forming.
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To fill the cracks, I'm using a two part sculptable epoxy clay. It's firm enough to handle and as it cures, you can come back and easily shape and carve it with an exact-o knife. I tried mixing in some of the dye that I use on my interior parts but it just made it turn slightly pink rather than the normal off white that the epoxy usually is.
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After the majority of the cracks where filled, I gave the wheel it's first base coat and sanded to expose the high and low spots in the wheel. I then filled and shaped the repairs as needed.
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After I was satisfied with the crack repairs, I gave the wheel several base coats.
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I then clear coated the wheel with a 2K catalyzed automotive clear.
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I have been working with an individual on a reproduction wood inlay. He already makes it for the 71-73 wheels and with some modification, I was able to make it fit my '74 wheel. I'm pleased with the results. Also, thanks again to Charles for supplying the very nice '76 center caps with the chrome emblem and wreath.
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Wow, nice job.
Beautiful work! It's like visiting the Cadillac showroom in 1974, only better! :)
Charles
That came out beautiful. May I ask what the difference was between the wood inlay for the 71-73 wheel and the 76 wheel and how you had to modify the one you used.
Thank you for your time.
Ciao,
Mario Caimotto
Quote from: mario on April 10, 2020, 06:52:37 PM
That came out beautiful. May I ask what the difference was between the wood inlay for the 71-73 wheel and the 76 wheel and how you had to modify the one you used.
Thank you for your time.
Ciao,
Mario Caimotto
I have not actually had a 71-73 wheel in hand but the way the insert was made, it seem as if those wheels have a flat bottomed slot for the inlay. On my wheels (a '74 and a '76 wheel), the slot for the inlay is stepped with the outside being higher than the inside. I had to mill the matching slot in the insert to get it to sit flush. You can see below the step in the slot and the groove I milled into the insert.
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I seem to have a bit more free time lately so I pulled out the buffer just to see if what is left of the factory paint could be buffed out. The passenger side door was just painted a few months ago so I'm using that as the reference. The first pic is the passenger fender as is vs the newly painted door. I would guess that the factory paint has not been waxed or polished it at least 20 years if not much longer than that. I used a Griots random orbit buffer with a hard foam waffle pad and 3M Perfect-It cutting compound.
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After a bit of work, most of the color and gloss came back. you can easily see the difference in the old factory finish vs the new (cheap) paint. The old paint is much smoother and has much less orange peal.
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For the factory to look really smooth though, it really needs to be color sanded to get all the damage out of it and then buffed out. It's in such bad shape overall though that it's not worth the effort.
I also did a bit of work on the door panels. When I bought the molded carpet, I also bought new carpet for the door panels. Here is the passenger side door panel carpet installation. I started with my refinished panel that has the existing carpet removed.
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I sized up the new carpet piece to be sure it was going to fit properly.
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It's hard to see in the pics, but I applied contact adhesive to both the door panel and the back of the carpet. Just wait until both pieces are dry and then stick them together.
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With the carpet glued in place, I applied contact adhesive to the rear where the binding is wrapped around the panel and then wrapped the binding over the edge.
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Here is the panel with the carpet completely installed.
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And here is the stainless molding installed.
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Next I worked on the upper door panel. This job is just like the other upper panels that I upholstered previously so I won't go into detail on the upholstery part. The big difference on this panel is that the window "fuzzy" was completely shot and mostly missing.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7537.JPG&hash=82ffb3708bcf8b4283d1ebccb14f8c53fa8bd303)
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The molding is held on with heavy staples that punch though the trim and the metal panel. Swapping out the trim requires you to either have a super heavy duty stapler or to find an alternative way of attaching it. I toyed with screws but in the end, I used 3M molding tape. If that does not hold, there are several other tapes that are much more heavy duty.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7540.JPG&hash=87fb73662fcbd1a0190ec7b295078893963d0007)
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The rest of the reupholstry is like the other panels: take it all apart and then put it all back together with new fabric.
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Power door lock actuators. Anyone that has owned an early to mid '70s Cadillac (more specifically the coupes) knows that power door lock actuators love to seize up into a solid block of rust. The actuators in my car are no exception and finding good ones is an expensive endeavor. It is possible to convert the system to use a more modern actuator but I have the broken ones and a set of functional units from a sedan so lets see what we can find out. I started out with a spare passenger side actuator. It was locked up completely and nothing would make it move.
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The actuator is held together by the peened over end of the housing. Later versions have a rolled edge rather than a peened edge.
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I straightened the edge and hoped that it would just come apart. Nothing like that happened...
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Not really knowing how it was constructed internally, the only thing I could see to do is to drive the internals out from the other end. Tapping the metal end with a punch started out OK but after about 1/4" of an inch, it just seemed to bind up.
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Since this was a spare, I just went with it and finally drove it apart, crushing the circuit breaker in the process. I at least knew what was inside and partially knew how it was assembled internally.
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For this rebuild, I took a functional rear sedan actuator which had the correct rod length and removed the internals from it's shell. Now I can see how it's supposed to go together.
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I dropped the coils and connectors into my coupe housing.
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And then dropped the actuator rod into the coil.
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I then peened the top over.
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And then put the boot in place.
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The end result was a rebuilt actuator.
So swapping the guts of an actuator to another shell is technically not "rebuilding it" and there is a finite supply of good sedan actuators. I wanted to take a non-functional actuator and make it work. I took my factory installed passenger side actuator and soaked it in rust remover for days and days until no more rusty liquid would pour out. I then flushed it with water and put penetrating oil in it. After about a week of this, I was able to get the entire unit apart.
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You can see here what actually rusts together and bind it up.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7578.JPG&hash=b8a740c49e380691a82ddfbeedd4b495578bdc73)
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I soaked the actuator rod in rust remover.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7724.JPG&hash=85f0037e215a4ace7fce5b4b21bf5fd142ae7ed1)
I also rewrapped the coils since the existing tape was ruined by the fluids and oils I soaked it in.
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From there, I reinstalled the coil into the housing, the brass tube into the coil (I cleaned and polished the brass tube), and the actuator into the tube. I thoroughly greased the tube, the actuator and the end caps to help combat corrosion.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7721.JPG&hash=5b0de6460e9a6836118042320c8a54028f7378cc)
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I then peened it back over and installed the only good boot I had on the connector end.
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Since I don't have any way to put a new boot on the actuator end, I need to come up with some method of deflecting water from entering the rod side of the actuator. Some kind of plastic shield like a umbrella would work provided it can be attached firmly to the rod.
Another suggestion for the felt would be pop rivets.
I wish I had a nifty solution to replace that boot on your door lock actuator. In any case, the modern actuator workaround I did is doing fine so far if you ever decide to go that way.
Quote from: hornetball on May 04, 2020, 02:17:40 PM
Another suggestion for the felt would be pop rivets.
I wish I had a nifty solution to replace that boot on your door lock actuator. In any case, the modern actuator workaround I did is doing fine so far if you ever decide to go that way.
At least with the pieces that I have, there is no way to bend them over far enough to get a rivet gun (or a screw driver) in to put the fastener in. I do have a felt kit on the way and I may go with tape and a mechanical fastener in the end.
Another thing I worked on was the air injection system. The crossover tube valve was leaking and from my previous posts, I had already gutted the bad AIR pump. This was giving me a small exhaust leak up front and it was time to fix it. I pull off the plumbing for the system and cleaned up the bores on both heads.
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I then drove an 11/16 freeze plug in each bore.
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And finally I touched it up with a little blue paint.
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No more exhaust leak.
Very nice work!
Regarding umbrella seal - those are actually used on the valve stems and are called the same way. Maybe you can find on summit or something similar umbrella valve stem seals with the correct rod diameter?
Otherwise, I would just cut a hole into a thick neoprene or any similar somewhat soft rubber and glue it to the base. The rod can then slide through the hole you have cut. Or even a slit that you can glue back together after installing it on the rod.
Best regards,
Nicolas
I'm getting ready to start working on printing a reproduction tail light filler/bezel but before I do that, I really need to clean up the rear of the car. I have not touched it yet with the exception of replacing some burnt out bulbs. I started at the middle with the license plate/fuel filler door area. Everything was functional with light surface rust. The handle for the filler door/plate holder was completely rotted off though.
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It came off with no fuss.
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The back up lights were in dirty but good condition. I pulled their respective pins from the tail light plugs so I could separate them from the tail lights.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7586.JPG&hash=16dc348ec63d848a3808dcfddce3370b57cd8970)
With those parts out of the way, I could see the condition of the seam sealer.
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It would come off in big chunks and would fall out at the lightest touch.
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I scraped all the seam sealer out and then sealed the bare metal with a coat of POR-15 (as well as the rear cross bracket).
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7592.JPG&hash=c2a378766679e1d1686ebe0868ab72e15b4d78f0)
I forgot to get a shot of the bare seam sealer, but I sealed up the seam and then gave it a quick spray of body color to make it look more uniform.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7606.JPG&hash=34c5d4b6df8b306390f37a87cb7c92317fdd9580)
I stripped the rust from the license plate door.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7598.JPG&hash=78ac580863ffcf3a104c2cb98a19bcfbaf099f4b)
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And gave it a nice coat of black paint.
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I have an OEM pull handle from the junk yard I frequent. I actually have two of them but I'm saving the better one to make a 3D model of so it can be printed. I cleaned this one up so I can install it for the time being.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7609.JPG&hash=cf8545a1fb1bc196081796a69b36e3d783bc12e8)
I riveted it on in place. I added washer on the back so the rivets don't put as much stress on the old plastic.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7610.JPG&hash=1ea8aff92ebeef6f215102603dc4e91243ca1582)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7611.JPG&hash=8225b7c847400b3dae402a206080250170172cc4)
At the same junk yard, I found an aftermarket ABS fuel door filler. I gave it a quick paint job so I can use it for the time being.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7612.JPG&hash=71cca9b203ffde2150548801c2bf5cf4ccacb484)
I also refinished the metal retainers for the fuel door filler.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7613.JPG&hash=c9a9f71d621c930942b84875b216ef2713e7c051)
I knew that when I got this filler, I would not be happy with the way it fits. I was not disappointed with my assessment. It's missing virtually all the features on the underside that locates it in the opening and the parts that allow the brackets to securely retain the filler so it can't move around. This shot show were it should sit but there is no way to keep it from moving around. I have a sheet of ABS that I'm going to use to "fix" it so it can actually be mounted properly. In the meantime, it at least won't fall off the car....
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7614.JPG&hash=99596ef1c9d3e356a8859dd3b0bd418261f33075)
Here is the center area with the refinished parts. I polished the back up housings and lenses while I had them off the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7621.JPG&hash=6b7f324230acc3e688da187678d8097859a5905b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7622.JPG&hash=602592f49619fa6820681bf653c2b2f803f04be3)
I cleaned up my factory option license plate frame. It's surprisingly sturdy and cleaned up nicely.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7620.JPG&hash=b1dc06723eb06a1176658ad95ab15d2118d0c2c6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7623.JPG&hash=d187e91d5d50548a2c98a54e544d1496896e30ae)
I also cleaned up the tail light housings as best as they could be. Lots of the chrome has flaked off but they are over all in decent shape. I had a time getting some of the bulbs out but none of them broke and now all the sockets are in great shape. I polished the lenses and the bezels before reinstalling them.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7625.JPG&hash=7927720de142aa370c8851b52fb0e0dc8b8df7bc)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7643.JPG&hash=8ff7a0e2a503ec4aba10984836a7d41e4fec1c52)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7642.JPG&hash=a878ae32df0d2684407647ddf10e672f80551a02)
As for the ABS reproduction filler I installed. I got it for $5 from a junk yard so it was not a big expense for something that I will have to heavily modify to make functional. If I were to have paid the going rate of $50 to $80 for one of them though and this is what I got, I would be very disappointed.
Quote from: DeVille68 on May 04, 2020, 03:33:42 PM
Very nice work!
Regarding umbrella seal - those are actually used on the valve stems and are called the same way. Maybe you can find on summit or something similar umbrella valve stem seals with the correct rod diameter?
Otherwise, I would just cut a hole into a thick neoprene or any similar somewhat soft rubber and glue it to the base. The rod can then slide through the hole you have cut. Or even a slit that you can glue back together after installing it on the rod.
Best regards,
Nicolas
The hardest part will be getting it on the rod. As far as I can tell, the rod does not come off the plunger. This means that any seal will have to stretch over the eye end of the rod itself.
The bumper strips were kind of faded so I wanted to see what could be done about it.
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It turns out that lacquer thinner cleans them up nicely. Here is a before and after.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7633.JPG&hash=3842a32abceda2d7c5ee3013d7ae4d0737b82d52)
And the whole strip:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7634.JPG&hash=340f8c68b6dff894ecbaa7e426b8752615108b59)
More fun with carpet! I used the old carpet to make patterns for all of the lower carpeted parts in the car. I stared with the trashcan.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7713.JPG&hash=d6026b70ad68f6fa1b7c70bbbb4a9ee3762cbe58)
I glued the front edge first so I could adjust the seam as it wrapped around the corner.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7714.JPG&hash=e42d687064ffff750445dc4c68e32005e6826d00)
And the finished product.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7715.JPG&hash=224ebd30562f1cd2ade0b0f738276b5f29d64b0d)
The same with the rear armrest panel next to the rear seat. Cut carpet from pattern, glue in place and then reinstall the edge and stainless steel trim.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7717.JPG&hash=6314a31dc5e6272375ec2bf41d9c24c206af4fd1)
Another terrific installment--When you have a few minutes to respond, I am all but certain you have thought about the following: How much of your work is focused on repairing damage due to weather, use, and abuse, and how much is due to age? We sometimes see Cadillacs that are in seemingly great condition, have been stored inside for decades, have low mileage, but then the question hanging in the air is what replacements will be necessary not so much due to service life, but much more subtly due to age? The question came to my mind when you pictured the metal panel sealing putty that has turned into crumbly chunks. Thanks again Mitchell for posting. James
Quote from: James Landi on May 05, 2020, 07:05:44 AM
Another terrific installment--When you have a few minutes to respond, I am all but certain you have thought about the following: How much of your work is focused on repairing damage due to weather, use, and abuse, and how much is due to age? We sometimes see Cadillacs that are in seemingly great condition, have been stored inside for decades, have low mileage, but then the question hanging in the air is what replacements will be necessary not so much due to service life, but much more subtly due to age? The question came to my mind when you pictured the metal panel sealing putty that has turned into crumbly chunks. Thanks again Mitchell for posting. James
I would say that on this car, most of the damage is from sitting in a barn for 20 years. The internals of most things I take apart on this car are usually in good condition. On the outside though, that's where the damage and deterioration has occurred. Just guessing, I would say that my car was in decent shape when it was parked, possibly with a damaged top and wear consistent with a 50k mile car from the '70s. It was obvious that the car was parked in the barn with the passenger side near a wall and people and things were moved by the drivers side for years and years because the passenger side has very few dents and dings but the drivers side is covered in very odd dents consistent with things falling on the car. As for the seam sealer, I would say even on a pristine car of the same age with virtually zero miles that it would be be degraded and falling out at the lightest touch. When I had a '74 CDV in the early 90s, the seam sealer was falling out of it as well. Another thing: if this car had not been stored in a barn with a tarp on it, it would have most likely rusted into the ground and been scrapped long ago.
Thanks for you expert observations... what I find revelatory is your comments about the barn stay and the tarp. I wanted to preserve a '56 that I ran for many years;it was in relatively decent condition when I parked it in an unheated garage with a gravel floor, and placed a tarp on it. Three years later, it was as you stated, rusting horribly. I gave it away for fear that nothing of value would be left. Until you related your experience, I thought I had some kind of "fluky" conditions that had caused the rust. I suppose the only alternative for preservation is a heated garage, where humidity is maintained. Again, thanks for all, James
I really wanted to fix the ABS fuel door bumper filler that I installed a few weeks ago that does not really fit. Since the part is ABS, I purchased a sheet of ABS material to make the brackets needed to properly install it. I started out by making some ABS angle stock.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7780.JPG&hash=c32cabd76597240e8797f3f1f3015ef0bff18ee9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7781.JPG&hash=3a74bd409d643fedc821aa0be2d56191ee37ff7e)
On the ABS filler, there is a lip on the leading edge that needs to be sanded off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7782.JPG&hash=8df5403199bd268d77860dbe5e620433abb9f289)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7783.JPG&hash=6218d8ec470bfd2a91bc12d13f662a048b1a078c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7784.JPG&hash=8533aa34c63c09d4c5a046719bd2f0864baf684f)
I used an ABS pipe adhesive to glue the angle to the filler.
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I added a 6" section of angle to each side of the front edge of the filler.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7785.JPG&hash=c018455fb1dc0422bdf4c27c3294fa8fc457cbfc)
I the face side of the filler, I added an extension to the leading edge so there would be the proper amount of material that feeds into the slot on the bumper.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7787.JPG&hash=9648f811b092f95c768817c6e6f667ed6fce9b72)
I then added a reinforcement on the rear of the angle so the metal retainer would not push the angle off the filler.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7788.JPG&hash=64bb928d27e969d30d3c7f790144bf485074fbb1)
I also added a stiffener to the middle to keep it from warping.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7790.JPG&hash=1dbec3829b84f06a82f477f433033df72e5cd338)
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This is how the metal retainer is supposed to be mounted on the filler.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7791.JPG&hash=e2083fed3f1294207c5a2e8a3fa78fa5d28890c3)
And this is how the retainer is mounted when everything is bolted to the bumper. The rear tabs on the filler hold the back up and the metal retainers push the front edge into the slot on the bumper.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7801.JPG&hash=5596e9151dc934b48fc416a232d041cd3b28b1d7)
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More please.
;)
If you're done with this one, can you get another one?
;D
Quote from: chrisntam on June 13, 2020, 09:59:55 PM
More please.
;)
If you're done with this one, can you get another one?
;D
I have several things that I'm in the middle of that once they are done, I will post. Here is a bit of a preview:
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So, since it seems like it's still going to be a little while before I finish my current project, I'm going to post what I have so far and then continue on when I have the "second phase" completed. I started out this little project as a quick Saturday afternoon project that quick spiraled out of control with mission creep and the "might as wells". It started out as me taking off the drivers side fender (a 20 minute job) so I could properly adjust the drivers side door hinges. Lets all see what transpired after that.
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After the door was adjusted (about and hour), I decided, rather than just putting the fender back on, that I wanted to clean up the suspension and the frame on the drivers corner. I had given it a light cleaning pass when I did the brakes and axle last year but it was far from tidy. I popped the inner fender off to have good access and got to work. Cleaning was going well but the wheel was in the way so I jack up that corner and took it off. I was making much better progress but there was still lots of grease and grime that was inaccessible. I then took the caliper off so I could remove the rotor. I also unhooked the sway bar end link (it was due to be replaced and I already had the new one) and the outer tie rod end. While I was looking at the tie rod I noticed that if I had any hope of having the car aligned, I was going to have to clean up the tie rod assembly so I took the entire tie rod assembly off. Cleaning was progressing but there were still several inaccessible spots behind the ball joints and in the nooks and crannies of the steering knuckle. I unhooked the upper ball joint to give me more movement and now the caliper was just sort of hanging there so I took the caliper, hose and the hard line to the proportioning valve off. As I had mentioned, I replaced the axle last year. The replacement was one of those new axles that you can buy for $65. I was never happy with it and I suspect that it was giving me some of the harmonic vibration that I've been feeling and really, how good could a brand new $65 axle assembly be? My factory axle just needed a boot so I decided that I was going to try my hand at fixing it so I pulled the axle. That only left the lower ball joint and after I had every thing else removed I discovered that there was some play in the joint so it needed to be replaced. Off with the knuckle! So what started out as a relatively simple job had spiraled out into a restoration of the entire corner of the car....
After the deep cleaning shown above, I started with the lower ball joint. Replacement is straight forward: remove the two rivets on the side and the rivet on the top and bolt the new one in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7828.JPG&hash=b354f7019007c99d3bbddf01002a86b204973313)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7829.JPG&hash=86559ff59919839234ffa5877b8eb2ac0f13e663)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7830.JPG&hash=fb52d25e44c9f32aa17db12482d73e3d66ed6e07)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7831.JPG&hash=fd8776f00db2328426058fdec66923f498471e8c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7832.JPG&hash=8b169ef653012f4ce9e00e6a6e0fe19c5748b5a1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7833.JPG&hash=ce3609247862216c55943b2f2296d85deacf634e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7834.JPG&hash=b61949f8728e6ff46d0f75c4ffc4f74e992f276e)
As ling as I have been messing with cars, I have never rebuilt a CV joint. The outer boot was shot (and probably had been for decades) but the joint seemed to be OK.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7836.JPG&hash=0070068202bd765239a0504007b3c6ee0ae811bc)
I pull off the remains of the old boot, removed the clip, and then popped the outer joint off of the axle.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7837.JPG&hash=b4380469591c4132e3a3be2399bfca37dfb710fe)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7839.JPG&hash=aabf1128654f6d61ac6da3bba242fe15ee800bb2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7838.JPG&hash=ace87a1f341d6856b2a5fd5df0672ac695c95973)
To get the race and the balls out, you have to lightly tap the race all the way to one side and then pop each ball out individually.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7840.JPG&hash=70eb6632acf24c475f8f89e8d3fc6c3c1321d237)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7841.JPG&hash=ad4c93ebae63861133b4f86afb30ce05fb8ec5c5)
Once all the balls are out, you can rotate the cage so the window line up with the fingers and lift the cage assembly out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7842.JPG&hash=fc1ffcf443f966915a64be795973b703fb1ccc7c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7843.JPG&hash=40e055a9369139cadb985b5d3cf75437d23b164c)
With the cage assembly out, you can rotate the inner race to the side with the notched finger and slide the inner race out of the cage.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7844.JPG&hash=725f83cf2b9c2d8249335e8dc6ce16d432ec65e4)
After I cleaned up all the parts and gave the a coat of paint to stop any rust, I opened up my vintage Saginaw axle boot kit and got to work.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7884.JPG&hash=badda78808f2074ef65c236267f252362e161317)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7885.JPG&hash=83ee08d95ae08fa12800e5d13c6c83c81d94b484)
I reassembled the inner joint using all the old parts with the exception of adding half of the 1lb bag of grease from the kit to the joint. The other half went into the new boot.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7886.JPG&hash=b23a418928eaf3b92b09326184ad783e622f7a3d)
With the new boot in place I attached it to the axle and the joint with the new band clamps that were supplied with the kit. They were of a different style than what was shown in the instructions but they were easy enough to install.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7887.JPG&hash=cdf1ea82770864c9e6365a10f0a56dc8aecf3dc2)
When I pulled the knuckle off, I though the bearing felt like that it was a little "crunchy" in one spot. I decided to go ahead and just replace the bearing to be on the safe side. The bearing is a stacked tapered roller bearing pair with a spacer between the outer bearing races. They are a light fit on the knuckle bore and the hub is pressed into the inner bearing races. Unlike a modern FWD bearing, the two bearings are independent and not sealed. The hub, bearings and outer seal all press out together. This is after you remove the inner seal.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7855.JPG&hash=7d24fe60cf641c5a153fee6982095d97433b8aef)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7856.JPG&hash=9dbaee1bd60549f205299e72fdf1f842060e20a8)
Here is how much gunk had gotten all the way though the bearings and up to the outer seal.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7860.JPG&hash=d4bdc28cc7cd5b4caa9be658ec6ba3e7acb0fdb3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7861.JPG&hash=ba33a27342ce3d062d29ece75370a648b8ef7b32)
Here is the damage I could feel in the bearing when I was spinning it:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7863.JPG&hash=bf6e5b0f648c6b993d9839ecc473f668a920eebe)
I cleaned the hub, knuckle, and bearing retainer up and painted them. After that, I slid the new bearing set into the bore (no need to press them) and installed the outer seal, shim, and bearing retainer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7875.JPG&hash=447ff3c56b6513b0a4e4774ebc3ab048c25799ed)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7877.JPG&hash=ef0a08e27b6693ccf4a64bb17defac858b1333f1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7878.JPG&hash=9cb5cc406774f94e6229b212b9654d89cf39823a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7879.JPG&hash=5076993095c37eb4be14e2c62e4467aee3f64f97)
After that, I press in the hub. It was a light press so it did not require a much to press it in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7880.JPG&hash=d221b5c973d1c1f2a7682a8ffbd5dfc73159b19b)
According to the service manual, a special seal installer is required to install the inner seal. I found that the bearing spacer from the old bearing set was the perfect size to act as a seal installer so keep that part if you are changing your bearings.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7882.JPG&hash=96411d16b31e30a04ecce2b777a62ecf60fe53f3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7881.JPG&hash=0fd10512b158837fa76799fc965cfa40ccf19e37)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7883.JPG&hash=205e47b09702f9b65e3c684bb32ff85ccd637953)
One thing leads to another . . . . 8)
I'll bet that hub bearing was your vibration.
Next up was to give the frame, lower control arm and brake caliper a bit of paint.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7854.JPG&hash=8f2c951588268221688cc7ef01ffe51c57331c72)
I also cleaned up and painted the tie rod assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7889.JPG&hash=252c8f5a4004c394694a77240195b4721b276407)
With everything painted, I started putting everything back together. I also painted my aftermarket shock GM corporate blue.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7894.JPG&hash=853349f05d9933b049aaeeca93a0dd490c5ac88a)
And here it is with the brakes put back together. I went ahead and put new pads on while I had it apart.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7951.JPG&hash=4bdb227ff06f5d83ec3608045e7dffc20700cf09)
Quote from: hornetball on June 24, 2020, 03:25:34 PM
One thing leads to another . . . . 8)
I'll bet that hub bearing was your vibration.
It was harmonic so I think it was either the axle or the tire/wheel.
This car was undercoated when I assume it was new. The undercoating is a thick, almost waxy coating that either flakes off with the lightest touch or will not come off with a blow torch. It's also metallic gold for some reason. It makes the wheel wells look like they are permanently coated in light colored mud so it's time for it to go. The inner wheel well itself is in fairly good condition with only the lightest of surface rust around the edges.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7865.JPG&hash=35a1f3e9cae63c72266ee8bf30e9c4c9ca04a939)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7867.JPG&hash=5223021df73b672d897424765dde5ca43aa80237)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7868.JPG&hash=f68e61200c741c144098550c3b94c0dacdeb0b82)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7871.JPG&hash=ae3bf76b76e548b1bda74b5cdac637b39d1d4382)
After a thorough scrubbing, here is the undercoating on the inner fender. You can see where it's flaking in some areas.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7890.JPG&hash=edf8ce960b8c110e6e7d32e42a673c3aedf0133a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7891.JPG&hash=d52201649abc5f3bd5143ed38d3e51d52821d65d)
Heat does almost nothing to the coating, even with MAPP gas it just barely gets soft enough to scrap some of it off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7892.JPG&hash=8b5556ba2eacdb2db903d82489f3601e8f98f46b)
Lacquer thinner just makes it clean.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7893.JPG&hash=1f1bce3e0c45e3a684f2f4a40628c9035221ba0e)
I finally had to use heavy duty paint stripper followed up by lacquer thinner to get it off. It took days to strip it all off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7897.JPG&hash=60f09d7392f685cdba3de8ded5ccd75257391fd8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7898.JPG&hash=fbad06e988105f1fffea2f15b8ffa49bc18e5f9f)
Here is another little thing I finally managed to source. As anyone that's following this thread knows, I'm putting quite a few Fleetwood Talisman parts and details in the interior of this car. One of those details are the stainless trim pieced that go between the carpet and the vinyl on the door panels and the rear armrest panels. The Talisman trim is of a different style and is wider than the standard Cadillac trim that is on all other models. The only other Cadillac that shares this trim is the d'elegance trim package on the deVille from '74-'76. What I needed was the trim from a '74-'76 Coupe deVille with the d'elegance package. On top of that, I needed extra trim pieces for the Talisman center console that I was installing also. After much research I discovered that the '71-'74 Oldsmobile Toronado uses the same trim as the d'elegance package coupes on the front door panels. That made finding the front door trim much easier and I was able to find a set in my local classic car junkyard. I also found out that the early '70s Buick Electra used the same trim on the sedan and the coupes so I was also able to source a supply of shorter trim pieces for my console project. That just left a small, bent piece that goes on the rear armrest panel. That part was unique to the Coupe deVille d'elegance so I was back to looking for that part. I attempted to bend a piece of the trim but it would require a special die to get it to bend without kinking so that was a last resort. One day recently though, I finally found a person parting out a rusted out d'elegance coupe and I immediately snapped up the rear armrest panels. That was the final piece of the puzzle for the lower trim. I also found out that the CDV and the Eldorado have different rear armrest panels. The CDV panel is about 3" longer than the Eldorado panel. Here is the pair of "mythical" trim pieces:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7899.JPG&hash=2ae9198163bf57e33755d73fa4154626dbdc7917)
This is the standard trim on the panel:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7900.JPG&hash=0941e17b9b1ac493956cb09397b05e54b4686e94)
And here is the new trim vs the old trim:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7909.JPG&hash=ce3fd20a6b254987f1da75f30a0502ebcb7b1440)
And here is yet another thing I'm working on. A 3D printed filler bezel for the tail lights. Like most of the aftermarket fillers that are currently made, they are marginal at best and this is one of the ones that can be absurdly poor depending on which one you buy. None of the aftermarket tail light bezels have the rear support, the lower supports that hold the inner lip to the tail light housing, the bottom support that sits over the bumper and most importantly, the inner lip that holds the chrome trim on the license plate pocket area. This is my first full sized prototype print of the filler to check for fit on the car. It needs a few tweaks but it's not bad for a first print.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7927.JPG&hash=820a31794d86b35654fb01f1a6d4c7ae7860e53f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7928.JPG&hash=7393683708da0cd48f7a519be0ba4c80a103eec1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7933.JPG&hash=d295c5998c5883076ba22d7959fe0abf9beb1e40)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7934.JPG&hash=1492e685a65562da61398ccca9cae9c0e207b919)
The red material I used print it so over-saturates the pictures that its hard to make out but it does have the "REMOVE THIS BEZEL TO SERVICE TAIL LIGHTS" note on the bezel. All of the different trims from the '75 and '76 models will fit it and I will be making a reproduction of the correct style chrome trim also.
Your attention to these fractional details really is paying off. Thanks for showing the comparison. All worth the effort. When completed, you'll hace CREATED a stunningly attractive car. Thank you for posting, James
Great job on the suspension and axle rebuilding.
I think the hardest part was having to clean your hands up every time you wanted to take pictures. There is nothing worse than getting grease of the camera. I sometimes neglect to take pictures when doing jobs, because of the horrible rotten grease.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks for posting the update. I'd say the undercoating did it's job as the fenderwell looks in great shape!
8)
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on June 24, 2020, 08:43:49 PM
Great job on the suspension and axle rebuilding.
I think the hardest part was having to clean your hands up every time you wanted to take pictures. There is nothing worse than getting grease of the camera. I sometimes neglect to take pictures when doing jobs, because of the horrible rotten grease.
Bruce. >:D
Yea, I really wanted to take more pics but taking the gloves off and getting the phone to take a picture every few minutes really eats up the time. I have seen several youtube presenters that say videoing and narrating a car repair can often make the process take four times as long.
Oh, so you use gloves. That makes it a lot easier.
Bruce. >:D
I did more things. While the drivers side fender is off, I wanted to do some body work to fix the numerous dents and dings that covered the panel. While my first attempts to repair the damage went quite well, I'm afraid that I got a bit too over confident in trying to fix a slightly sunken area that I mistook for body damage when it was just part of the deep draw from the stamping process. I though that I could shrink the area out and it would just flatten but the result was so bad that I just scraped the fender rather than trying to beat it back into submission. Fortunately, I had access to a decent condition replacement that just needed a small bit of rust repair in the same area that my passenger side fender needed so all was not lost. When I acquired the replacement fender, I also got a very nice condition drivers door shell. Mine has at least 18 dents and that's when I stopped counting... On to the pictures! With what I learned from my previous "error" I decided that I was going to try something a little less "final" if it all went south. I skimmed and blocked this entire panel to make it just a flat as possible. I started out with a black guide coat after I stripped the fender.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7945.JPG&hash=3bc19518e6c9acf9cf6b7ea2ed3c72b2ea4215dd)
After that, I blocked the fender to find the low spots, gave the entire thing a skim coat of filler, and then blocked it again.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7944.JPG&hash=019e17c4ea5d8b39217ab6436f096346c3ca0545)
I did the guide coat, fill, and block again until everything was nice and flat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7958.JPG&hash=0ad5ee36940779a29e78bea5221e8792bba03771)
I also coated the entire rear with POR-15 for rust protection.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7956.JPG&hash=46e3f8082766edf6df1e93250239cb38e2c3d964)
I then gave the fender a coat of 2K filler primer and scuffed it to smooth the entire surface.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7963.JPG&hash=cf244391b9cc00336c3184a49d91d444072996ad)
And then a coat of epoxy primer as a sealer coat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7964.JPG&hash=aeba0a7c643bc5f0b4f5e0b14d559d453d6afdc4)
Finally, I gave a coat of single stage acrylic enamel to hold me over until I paint the entire car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7965.JPG&hash=15c58a57c199206b07346d04ac4e980ed857acd1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7966.JPG&hash=7d65bd5def730751fd5c490c34100aeeafa30e53)
I did some more work in the wheel well area. Everything is torqued up and ready to go on the front suspension.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7951.JPG&hash=4bdb227ff06f5d83ec3608045e7dffc20700cf09)
I also primed the inner wheel well while I was priming the fender.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7962.JPG&hash=e30d6d72d9cab21fd509012476cd3fda6acb5ea5)
And I gave the inner wheel well a coat of satin black and loosely installed it back on the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7971.JPG&hash=d5885c14a817eb3bafefefe8c1b91806b27970e1)
The wheel on that corner also needed some attention. I cleaned all the old grease and road grim out of it. There was so much gunk in it that it had to be rebalanced afterwards.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7874.JPG&hash=6cbc5f9610d26b755b6b4ea00334bb8c26580712)
After I sanded it down:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7960.JPG&hash=daa61f521ec953596d8c02841fad8351ca459051)
And after a few coats of satin black paint, inside and out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7972.JPG&hash=f5caf3416415c74b677c872ae1a4c1f152294427)
I even gave it a correct CAX type wheel weight so the wheel cover will actually fit back on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7973.JPG&hash=9d2f96c7aad11a555e541b9b928368b196e02aca)
WOW--- much better than NEW--- your workmanship is really incredible. You're an inspiration. James
Looks great.
Just a pointer - put your epoxy primer down first. Do all of your body work over the epoxy. That does 2 things. 1 - it seals the metal. 2. It prevents moisture from getting behind the filler and bubbling over time.
Quote from: Dan LeBlanc on July 14, 2020, 07:26:53 AM
Looks great.
Just a pointer - put your epoxy primer down first. Do all of your body work over the epoxy. That does 2 things. 1 - it seals the metal. 2. It prevents moisture from getting behind the filler and bubbling over time.
I actually put the fill down over the factory primer. The new paint strippers that are available now won't even shift the old factory primer at all.
Another longer project that I have finished up (for the time being) is the Talisman center console. As I had noted in previous posts, I had to make a riser that adapted the console to the Eldorado floor pan and raise it up to the correct height. Now that that was complete, I started with the upholstery. I wanted to duplicate the factory style but in the material that I'm planning on using for the seats. Here is the bare console with the foam reinstalled.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7712.JPG&hash=24b468bcca11b50af717fd87cd31616e77707b28)
Next, I upholstered the front edge with the same pleats on the front upper corner.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7718.JPG&hash=1dfa6037cfb7177f592929d9a9a225a08391ddfb)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7719.JPG&hash=305eb7f553d53b8a0d054df4858538f27a4ff3b0)
I then added the caps over the center lock section and then the rear storage container lid.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7740.JPG&hash=062e9b2484eae276519b029965b5df7b5897621b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7741.JPG&hash=f4f3810996913712e01644fa0fa9f73d0ec0396f)
I then did the rear cap and next, the side panel. The side panel ended up with a few wrinkles at the top edge, I will see if they come out on their own with some heat/steam and if not, I'll just re-stretch the panel when I take the drivers seat back out to upholster it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7756.JPG&hash=f07de2efc2eb8ca4fc82bf92f42872f14ac6b506)
And finally, the forward pad for the writing desk cover.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7757.JPG&hash=d2edb2517c05e8ace129b6d3735da5669f0004eb)
I also painted the metal supports and hinges and dyed the vinyl on the writing desk housing.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7759.JPG&hash=ea60dc7ac5109b3d7d85b8ef045c92d7d81ad989)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7760.JPG&hash=6e5fe760bf74b6dbec183bf95992550693b15393)
The next step is what took so long. Since in the correct application for the Talisman console has the unit mounted to a carpeted transmission tunnel, the standard upholstery goes all the way to the bottom of the console. In my application, I though that having the upholstery going all the way to the floor would look a bit odd because of the height. I added a strip of carpet that lines up with the carpeted sections on the door panels. That was not really that hard but what was much more difficult was the stainless steel trim between the carpet and the upholstery. Since I wanted the Talisman style trim and I now have a good supply of the trim pieces, I had to devise a way to mount the trim to the console. The trim is normally mounted with spikes that are folded over on the pressboard door panels. The console is much too thick to mount this way and in the end, I made a 3D printed bracket that I could screw on console that replicated the factory style of mounting that some similar trim uses and offset the trim the correct distance.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7982.JPG&hash=d057eb97753a092dbd7bfa07dc4cdd46e39446be)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7987.JPG&hash=da2d735e59267a8697482f12b18b793b6db6227f)
The next issue was with the trim itself. On the ends of the trim, it was beveled to match the sides. If I cut the trim to the length I needed I would lose the bevel on that end and all the pieces needed to be cut to fit. I toyed with a number of different ways to form the bevel and in the end, I 3D printed a die and used a little hammer to manually form the ends.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7978.JPG&hash=bd042d13245da58ead2ed43faa13f75b8434b164)
Here is the cut trim with the ends rounded to match the factory forming.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7979.JPG&hash=40b8ae8dfbafd0223d2d3bd1b7c0a4c20daddd3f)
I cut away the inside lip so the piece could be formed. I also added a notch further back so the trim would not shift on the die while I formed it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7980.JPG&hash=6595468f582f3319f02ea4a81be0ece130b7e7e2)
The end result turned out better than I expected.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7981.JPG&hash=db97d55e0f789cfbc371b29783a7305c204e8e55)
With the trim pieces made, I could then finish up the console.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7984.JPG&hash=460242e00e300a72c96512a5766133d57afa1264)
Next up was to make an adapter harness for the lighting in the console. I had some scrap harnesses left over from the seats and they had the correct connectors to make a splice harness that plugs in between the seat harness and the body harness to get power for the console lights. I also have a spare positive and negative lead for a future project that will require power in the console.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7985.JPG&hash=2a376266ec9f382c2d2f3f0ddc23e1793c35c768)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7986.JPG&hash=4a315cfa414a16f0e28672fd996ac235314fe415)
Now it was time to mount the console. It's mounted with four bolts, two in the front, and two in the rear. The forward bolts are exposed so I used stainless steel bolts that I polished. The rear bolts are under the stainless steel trim so they are not visible.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7989.JPG&hash=6844c7c8ac04a1676ba1b2ff01f7eed8bb910070)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7988.JPG&hash=4b289fcfc5d07727abb4efd2893fe90359a72cd5)
With the console in and the power hooked up, all the lights work as expected. I'm not sure what the floor of the storage compartment is supposed to look like as I did not get that part but I used a piece of the carpet I'm using throughout the rest of the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7990.JPG&hash=33f3474d61b19a3dd9dce0c4a0fdbd978bb832a8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7991.JPG&hash=3b62009d4bb23f799ef8f820f3ce37beddd0d5be)
With the seat back in, the height looks correct as well as the forward/aft position.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7995.JPG&hash=589ac3bfda3cf1ff5d00f0b8831ffd14a1ef036b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7994.JPG&hash=caacc3dcdbffce21eaebad551ba15e56f234f8a4)
It also fits nice and tight to the floorpan.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7992.JPG&hash=0943ee9a0a2070c45cd04c7f858c57638d1fdf82)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7993.JPG&hash=62f8aa34ebd577a1bd81d65d26e8cbe7cac7994c)
Other than a few wrinkles that may just work themselves out on their own, I'm please with the outcome.
Another multi month project that I finally finished was the radio. It took me a while to decide exactly what I wanted to do. I could use the stock radio (AM/FM with auto seek), I could use a different vintage radio (I already had an AM/FM 8-Track from the '74 CDV that I had long ago) or I could use a modern retro style radio. I'm not terribly fond of the look of the modern retro radios but I do want modern functionality. What I ended up with is a vintage radio but I'm powering all the speakers with a new amp that has it's own Bluetooth input. I'll run the speaker output from the vintage radio to the new amp and be able to switch between any input I want. Next is to decide on the vintage radio to use. I really like the way the auto seek radio works and adding the foot control intrigued me but in the end, what is a '70s car if it does not have an 8-track player? I dug the old one I had out of storage and started work on it. It was not in horrible shape but it had been removed in 1994 and put in a box since then.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6809.JPG&hash=ce8f62308b5653e701be0bfddfac54338c42084d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_6810.JPG&hash=5e9d1fe2e0a6e822e8d7c127b764e480f1f8cedb)
First off was to see if it even worked at all. When I took it out, I knew the AM/FM part worked but I had never tested the 8-track part. As I suspected, the belts were completely shot.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7013.JPG&hash=fce3938c928730881228b575df5245d28de62173)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7014.JPG&hash=e6d3a8e60466ad8098317753764cc723dc97e581)
I ordered new belts and that fixed the tape rotation issues. I acquired a few 8-tracks to test with started work. The head was dirty, the capstan had tape wrapped around it, the track switching did not work, the volume was crackly, the switching between tape and radio did not work reliably, the AM/FM slider was sticking, and the memory buttons were almost impossible to move. Time to take stuff apart! The tape transport came out first.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7067.JPG&hash=b772815ca5e84158ab45743359ae96f503660253)
I think pull the transport apart to work on the mechanical parts that did not work. I started with the capstan. It's supposed to have a section that is just a little rough to provide some friction to move the tape. It was covered in tape residue and had gotten polished over time. I masked the entire capstan flywheel and sand blasted just the tape section.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7073.JPG&hash=8c35d0a34c409c3730149d4bd5708414df11151c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7071.JPG&hash=37a3d57e9011788236dbb3506f0889d561cd9087)
I then cleaned and greased the track selector assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7075.JPG&hash=3fab206c6d875545b12a606f7ea8c305cd04fe00)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7069.JPG&hash=508a5ad8d074aa93a7207a74bbcd39aa4ae15905)
I then cleaned the internal tape/radio switch with Deoxit and put the board back on the tape transport.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7077.JPG&hash=4697b91a7a1ca69286e8c77ed0b9c629f9cd4f40)
I continued the teardown until I got the station selector button assembly out. This required several things to be desoldered and many layers of mechanical components to be removed. Many of these pictures were for my own recollection while I took stuff apart so they are not exactly framed very well...
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7084.JPG&hash=079e180e1114a757a64f0a5562ff0462ad3f54b9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7095.JPG&hash=de21592bc2d26b179bafed3afcdf2c10b1209cf3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7099.JPG&hash=8873e8098713a92d2a82a41e36e1684d99626e68)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7100.JPG&hash=0d41c9b0abadb85d72f3cb94a1ea98a07860e464)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7101.JPG&hash=2de8c48c00d92eb587c6dfa32525cffaa8632f08)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7102.JPG&hash=957c598f3d7681be744e990470d3857f87377db5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_7103.JPG&hash=a8570b9ca8296da19f6916fb4d281f2b6c3e1d02)
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Here is where I made a critical error that caused this whole rebuild to get sidelined for quite a while. When I was getting ready to put it all back together. I noticed that the chrome on the buttons was not as good as the chrome on the buttons on the other radio I had. I made the decision to just swap in the better buttons without noticing that the bent section that extends the buttons through the face was not the same. Everything went together perfectly until it was time to put the radio face back on...
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Still working under the assumption that everything was OK, I continued on with cleaning up the face plate. I pulled it all apart and refinished everything.
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And then when I went to put the face back on, it would not fit. I had everything working, the AM/FM, the volume, the internal mode selector, the track selector, the eject mechanism, it all worked. Once I realized what was wrong, I just sat it all aside for quite a while because to fix the problem, it required the entire unit to be completely dissembled down to the buttons. Finally, some time later I tore it all down again and fixed it correctly and finally put the faceplate back on it.
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Incredible patience and craftsmanship... beautiful results. James
And, looking at the complexity of the whole unit, it is no wonder that they were so expensive.
Plus, humans designed them, made them, and they worked beautifully.
In my own 8 Tracks, it was always the belt that succumbed to the ravages of time, especially from lack of use.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on July 14, 2020, 08:38:11 PM
And, looking at the complexity of the whole unit, it is no wonder that they were so expensive.
Plus, humans designed them, made them, and they worked beautifully.
In my own 8 Tracks, it was always the belt that succumbed to the ravages of time, especially from lack of use.
Bruce. >:D
The radio has more mechanical parts in it than the drivetrain...
I did a bit more on the front corner this weekend. I had the front turn signal filler printed and I reprinted the headlight housing filler as there was an error where that filler met the turn signal filler and I wanted to fix that. I had to prime and paint those parts as well as the housing for the front light telltale indicators. Here are the parts primed:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8005.JPG&hash=076c2a1bcb774d519c5b8dbbf4c79ea80fe3a09f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8006.JPG&hash=09577b8a2cd43b163aaa48480ba38ec54e3aee35)
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And here they are painted:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8017.JPG&hash=67175f1a8574c762f6168f5e96a5b9ab3cfa64ee)
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And here are all the parts loosely assembled. I need to get the gap at the drivers door correct first, next the hood, and lastly the front end pieces.
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One last thing: I picked up a Fleetwood Talisman console latch assembly off of ebay and it turns out that it was NOS and it's for a '74 (it has the correct "K" key blank). The Talisman console key is like the key for the rear door of the limos: it has notches cut out of the sides so you can tell it from the door key. I would like to have the rear console like the '74 Talisman has but it would have to be almost completely custom to fit the Eldorado. With this latch, I can make a correctly styled console without hacking up a real one.
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Looking OH SO BEAUTIFULLY showroom new. It's a rare look and feel to observe your efforts taking shape. Thank you again for sharing this experience with us. James
I had ordered a sheet of masticated rubber to make new splash shields a few weeks ago. It took quite a while to arrive via the USPS, to the point that I though that it was lost but it finally showed up the other day. It's quite a good match to the original material used for the splash shields and I will be ordering more to reproduce the radiator to bumper filler and a thicker piece to reproduce the air silencer baffle.
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The material cuts well enough with heavy scissors and can be punched with hole punches. I just laid the old splash shields on the new material, traced them, and the cut them out.
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The old splash shield were intact but they were very stiff, starting to crack, and were covered in that metallic gold undercoating. The new ones fit nicely and I was able to reuse the factory retainer clips.
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I would say that the only drawback of this material is that it smells like a Harbor Freight exploded in my garage....
I am enjoying following this thread. It is truly amazing what you're doing and the results are spectacular. I was wondering where you bought the masticated rubber from. Also, you 3-D printed the rear filler on the car. Did you do that yourself with your own printer? I did't think 3-D printers were big enough to print large objects like that. Is it one piece? I don't see any support material on the piece and it looks really smooth front and back. Was there any sanding involved? Did it come out of the printer like that? Thanks for sharing your restoration with us.
Joe
Quote from: joecaristo on July 23, 2020, 11:20:14 AM
I am enjoying following this thread. It is truly amazing what you're doing and the results are spectacular. I was wondering where you bought the masticated rubber from. Also, you 3-D printed the rear filler on the car. Did you do that yourself with your own printer? I did't think 3-D printers were big enough to print large objects like that. Is it one piece? I don't see any support material on the piece and it looks really smooth front and back. Was there any sanding involved? Did it come out of the printer like that? Thanks for sharing your restoration with us.
Joe
The masticated rubber sheet came from www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com
I did print that part myself on my printer. That particular part is made from three prints that I glued together but there are printers that can print it all in one shot. I could have actually printed it in two pieces but it was faster and better quality to do it in three pieces. Orientation is key when printing with a single filament printer to avoid excess marks on the surface from support materials. I'm going to be printing that part again soon and it was requested that I take some pictures of it before I remove it from the build plate.
Wow Mitch. The lengths you go to . . . . This is going to be a fantastic car when you finish it.
As I've mentioned in this thread, this car will be better than new-- basically handcrafted with no expense spared. It was a knockout when new, but I suspect with the several minor modifications, it will be even more appealing. Sure is a pleasure to observe. James
This is an amazing read with photos, and an amazing project.
I have a question going back to page two of this thread. For the door pull strap and panel rebuild, what kind of stapler do you use to attach the ultraleather? What did you use to sew the pull strap fabric to the foam core? (sewing machine?, what sewing machine brand, and what type/brand of thread, ) What type/brand of glue to glue the pull strap fabric to the metal band? Asking, as I am new to the restore aspect and have a '70 Deville I need to restore the pull straps.
Quote from: colorado4x4 on August 23, 2020, 02:27:05 PM
This is an amazing read with photos, and an amazing project.
I have a question going back to page two of this thread. For the door pull strap and panel rebuild, what kind of stapler do you use to attach the ultraleather? What did you use to sew the pull strap fabric to the foam core? (sewing machine?, what sewing machine brand, and what type/brand of thread, ) What type/brand of glue to glue the pull strap fabric to the metal band? Asking, as I am new to the restore aspect and have a '70 Deville I need to restore the pull straps.
I used a cheap Harbor Freight air powered stapler. I have found that manual staplers and plug in electric staplers just don't have the oomph to get the staple all the way in. For the pull handles, I used a full walking foot upholstery sewing machine, though a decent craft sewing machine should be able to do that job. I think on that part, I used a V-69 thread though it could have been V-92 since I did use my upholstery machine. For the glue, make sure your metal backing is completely clean and rust free and I now use DAP Weldwood contact adhesive in the quart can. I have used various 3M spray adhesives with great luck but the liquid contact adhesive that you can brush on offers so much better control over a spray can.
More front end work. It's the same as before, take it all apart, clean it all up, and replace anything that needs to be replaced.
Here is the starting point:
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It was almost identical to the drivers side: bad lower ball joint, iffy wheel bearing, and I'm swapping out the cheap aftermarket axle with my rebuilt factory axle.
The rebuild of the passenger side axle was virtually the same as the drivers side. I started out by propping up the outer joint in the knuckle assembly. This makes holding the outer housing much easier.
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Next I unpacked my second NOS Saginaw boot kit.
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Half the grease goes in the cup.
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And then I reassembled the inner race, ball bearings, and snap ring.
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I added the new boot to the axle shaft and clamped it on.
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The other half of the grease goes into the new boot.
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Pop the shaft into the inner race and then clamp the boot to the housing and your all done!
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The wheel bearing was not horrible but it did not make much sense to not replace it while everything was apart.
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New bearing and seals in:
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Old lower ball joint:
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No lower ball joint:
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New lower ball joint:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8177.JPG&hash=0d759d9d0cb3257915fb1a8d43f40dd48a120661)
And finally, everything back together:
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I also cleaned up the blower motor and popped it back it while it was easy to access.
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One other thing I addressed while working on the passenger side was the negative battery cable. In the vintage that my car was built, GM was using copper clad aluminium wire for the primary battery leads. They can corrode internally and cause poor connections even though everything looks solid. My negative lead had a rather suspicious bulge at the base of the side post terminal.
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I had another negative lead with a bulge at the opposite end so I cut it open to see how it looked inside. I would say that only about 10% of the wire strands were still wire at this point.
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I had a new negative wire made by CE Auto Electric Supply for a very reasonable price. It's not a concourse reproduction but it was made to spec out of high quality wire.
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The new negative wire fits just fine. I will probably have them make a positive lead in the near future also.
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It's been a while but I have been working on it. With the passenger side apart, I also worked on the fender and the inner fender. There was a small rust hole that I had repaired a while back so not much was needed on the fender.
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It was quite clean in the usual places that rust out.
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I coated the inside with POR-15 to make sure I did not have any issues down the road.
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There were a few dents and dings along with the general factory waviness that I wanted to take care of.
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(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8256.JPG&hash=df66745925876828a6f6af07ee56cc71a3faec32)
I did the same process on this fender as what I did on the other one: sanded, skim coat of filler, sanded, primed, sanded and then primed again.
Next, I worked on the inner fender.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8310.JPG&hash=ca53d76e4b48a548a2aa84991ce9fd9553755df7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8311.JPG&hash=e77ddd5a58662db2a59cf800374a4895b11275f8)
I got rid of all of that old undercoating.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8313.JPG&hash=90ccbf88a528351454e30cdc0ef13da1840bf27c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8314.JPG&hash=977f373fd7cc159bdacb839791e017afea328b78)
Primed it inside and out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8315.JPG&hash=552532bac0cfd20a06f362e12aacf08436c4af45)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8322.JPG&hash=1aae30dedc8ceda22b311a1ba97422e1009164a8)
And then gave it a coat of black.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8323.JPG&hash=0591e1c2a797f36a177c1dca9031477f79ab441a)
I also put new clip nuts on.
On this side, I decided to put the fender on the way the factory installed it: as an assembly with the inner and outer fender together.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8324.JPG&hash=53fe6aafcfdfec8c46d236535bc063c9594091ac)
It was a little awkward to bolt the parts together on stands but it went together easily.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8325.JPG&hash=a6dda4079c2baf95d5826261109662fde55f2d50)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8326.JPG&hash=4fc9c71b0de66091bef2dbc926689fe09729eef0)
The assembly went on to the car much easier than putting the inner wheel well on first and then prying the fender wheel opening lip over the wheel well. It made adjustment much easier also.
Here are a few other little things I worked on:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8259.JPG&hash=666bb0b7e5021e1615f10edffcbe507c1fb17460)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8260.JPG&hash=6feb362e8be3804bd43bb33325ed84cb5e2b893c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8261.JPG&hash=3b659e84b99dc356cc8f8521745d0ac03a4640e9)
I stripped, painted, and refilled the breather. The old breather material had disintegrated into oily chunks.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8263.JPG&hash=7c0e1b67d9b6bff297ec4a1242581b127d8aacd4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8297.JPG&hash=30e9d1032d61eee61df83962287fd7912a18008d)
The drivers side turn signal lens had a small crack in it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8299.JPG&hash=d5f0b6a5942e1abd31fe2f5a796e892a1bb08a52)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8300.JPG&hash=e2eafa65848f8273ac0077c783672c63a6f065ea)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8301.JPG&hash=f084933a702c9fe7fda2316816fa18e9e6e01be9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8302.JPG&hash=09e3900f0b893bc008b3961f794347150e44afad)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8308.JPG&hash=47adda780983d39ed2b5a16f40a2fe20c78ecb6f)
I was able to find an NOS lens and get the assembly as close to new as I could.
Next up is the radio, dash trim, and speakers. I want to keep the factory radio but I want bluetooth connectivity for my phone. I did this with a bluetooth amp and a line level converter for the factory radio. I started with the rear speakers.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8266.JPG&hash=423115604dae410bf48a8fec56b5f68bac9a0700)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8267.JPG&hash=b658f020d7d80b6c0ebcfd1e18888a02aff3e8b4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8268.JPG&hash=11a79b367fe3cf58bef61977bd6e106818da2e76)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8269.JPG&hash=e5379b911e62f33a5d696da26b50086c599d3618)
I started out with regular 6x9 speakers for the rears but I could not get them to wedge in the mounting location. I did not want to cut anything just to mount speakers so I got a pair of 6x9 to 6-1/2 adapters.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8270.JPG&hash=807377cdcc86e1e8726c2227d0e6a1dbf79501e9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8271.JPG&hash=255948611ea070bfc011c2632c8e008c3640158d)
The adapter plates are offset to one side which made mounting the speakers in the stock locations simple.
One of the other things I wanted to do while I was installing the radio was to install the '77-'78 dash trim I had purchased from Charles here on the forum. This will match the '77-'78 upper door panels that I have also.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8274.JPG&hash=e9dd6202939a53461849609f23f730e69b9f146b)
There are differences between the '74 and the later trim assemblies. The '74 trim has the mounting for the map light in the trim where the later one must mount the light differently. The early trim also has a blacked out upper lip where it mounts to the under side of the middle dash pad. Lastly, the chrome on my '74 part was in better overall condition so I decided to just swap the later inlay over to my early chrome backer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8275.JPG&hash=00ffd1b7bc34325762f32d63cc96dc70143de7a4)
The later chrome backer has extra holes cut in it to clear the crest, wreath, and nameplate.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8278.JPG&hash=84c9849b5d034dd3e5ce2b4b2cf5e6e9418f8b11)
I drilled clearance holes on my early backer to accommodate the later inlay.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8281.JPG&hash=7ab469e9918a1b3f7a6daa5d2be40f06db7f4645)
From the factory, the inlay was retained with a combination of tape, staples, and pins. I opted for glue.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8286.JPG&hash=cd50af6fda43ed74f6d625608c32e0b773b52db3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8285.JPG&hash=406054793cd15720369eba4a3e2787f0d402e9a7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8284.JPG&hash=9c4bf18218c92f869459546587e0326fd347a8a5)
With the refinished radio, the excellent inlay from Charles and the nice chrome from my early backer, the whole dash turned out nice.
I seem to be missing pics of the other side and of the finished dash. I'll add them shortly.
Another thing I wanted to do is get the rear interior panels out of storage and back into the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8328.JPG&hash=63e108522ab566d116a503acd4aff8000a962b02)
I started out by putting the sound deadener in the wheel well area and the rear sidewall.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8327.JPG&hash=ec2f5be9d7f10e61a6305d7d362c12f4009dd42d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8329.JPG&hash=a8cb3836cf4a04b46e8c3e151f9b2fa4aeeaaea8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8330.JPG&hash=a2440f4f67574580d87fa9ab57b49e26dcfb2a6a)
The old side panel sound deadener/rockwool insulation was dirty, smelly, and falling apart. I took care of the sound deadener with the self adhesive material and I made a new felt pad out of extra carpet padding.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8331.JPG&hash=e37d14dbe76276ef6299e7f224e515ee133ec188)
I then mounted my refurbished trim panels.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8332.JPG&hash=3f00f680177b073383f467aa6a5bba696de81430)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8333.JPG&hash=1614a28e358d107d20d8c7b91d2d089956997979)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8336.JPG&hash=a829ba26c5abfc810342f9c75f5e36b2cb1aa5ee)
The drivers side was done the same way.
Lets talk cigarette lighters. All of the lighter sockets in my car were in poor shape at best. some of them were so rusted out that there was nothing really left of them. I had managed to gather enough parts to refurbish all of the lighters in the car but not all of them were the same. Here is the front drivers door lighter rebuild.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8338.JPG&hash=9db0291db8f843ea5ae9ddf58eb41308defa2be8)
This is the layout of all the parts after a bit of cleaning.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8342.JPG&hash=ecb6a9046732591877e04799796c30cba0a8002d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8340.JPG&hash=dc1213a2bbe24d161d8d6dbb0456b755ba32a71b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8341.JPG&hash=f07a6c4db8506b304a74fc6d62f43419c336b143)
The big difference between the front passenger lighter and the others in the rear of the car are the slots for the illumination. The remainder of the body is the same.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8343.JPG&hash=77296b56a8412353cb91e6b4f0492130a952b90a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8344.JPG&hash=db3a5403cbfc165826874ce1ecb026cfa46a7c2c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8345.JPG&hash=b2fc5ec490c5e02f861529c9433b0b3ff63eb0e3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8346.JPG&hash=6c79078c9282b1bd454b57e2b5fc24aad18671d2)
The slots for the illumination port need to be oriented as shown so the bulb holder can snap in. The bulb holder also has a second opening to illuminate the ashtray. The front passenger position also has a special ashtray with windows on each end for the illumination to light up the ashtray itself.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8349.JPG&hash=00e0cf30dd8735ac0a0f4bdea73bb9cf8416628c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8348.JPG&hash=f7236677d47614a910b704fddcbd8d9f82db9d70)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8350.JPG&hash=81ccbe748a9a43932873d2ff53a95fb224286893)
The illumination will work with the ashtray installed in either orientation. There will be no smoking in my car so there is not much of a worry of them getting damaged by use.
Thumbs up Mitch!
...been missing your reports... always loved the touches of illumination on Cadillacs. Of course, those small lights, connections, and associated parts had a distinct service life, and often, when they failed, were not missed. Keep your progress reports coming... very respectful of your creativity and attention to details. James
nice work on an unnecessary detail like the cigarette lighter! Reminds me of myself :-D ::)
Best regards,
Nicoals
Quote from: DeVille68 on November 17, 2020, 02:49:46 PM
nice work on an unnecessary detail like the cigarette lighter! Reminds me of myself :-D ::)
Best regards,
Nicoals
I have spent the majority of the body work time on the car in places that will be completely covered up with rocker molding trim...
Time for what seems to be my quarterly update. Lets start with the passenger side rear quarter panel. As I had mentioned before, the passenger side rear quarter, fender skirt, and door on this car had been replaced. I had already replaced the poorly repaired door but I had not done anything about the rear quarter. The quarter itself was fine for the most part but the molding did not line up with the door and all the paint was flaking off of the repainted area. Here is how far off the molding was:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8376.JPG&hash=d770c9cebdc773dde12ec45d04b991c22c4a4bad)
And here was the general condition of the paint:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8389.JPG&hash=c1ba933ca4d3d52f8c68a3f01f50cc7724bd1618)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8390.JPG&hash=786c60ceedc9e16f6e534d40996e34052bd3c596)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8391.JPG&hash=b83efbf2b2b3e104b6598086bf86c91de408defe)
It was not rusty; that is brown primer showing though. With one quick pass of the DA, here is what the paint looked like:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8394.JPG&hash=5155a066248824608a5c3cb1e5c10e2a28b29fc7)
I sanded the entire quarter with the DA sander all the way to the metal.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8395.JPG&hash=18d5523844ac0f9db14b5de6adf4820ebef65884)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8396.JPG&hash=dd807bf53de921ad8583318d87fc472c71bb423f)
Here is something odd. When they repaired the car, they put the trim back on the car before they put the top coat on and then just masked it off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8401.JPG&hash=fdb3090cf7f22a375dd02137feee6c7a6031e32c)
Now to fix the molding. When the replacement quarter and door skin was installed, the replacement pieces did not have the studs for the trim on the panels. Screw in studs where used and when a factory door with factory studs was installed, the molding on the rear quarter was not in the right place.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8398.JPG&hash=1eb92daccc156f7566f901136a55114cf6e361bf)
You can see that the holes for the screw in studs were way too low. I had to weld them up and drill new holes in the correct locations.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8399.JPG&hash=1052ea9a497af95b6f5ea936ce07624ba1c913a5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8400.JPG&hash=fe1a9c62516b2144fe11986a3d3017145c9c07f9)
Now on to the bodywork. Just like the fenders, I skim coated the panel with filler and then blocked it down. Since this panel is so big, I got this big boy:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8402.JPG&hash=74a3b51ed999beae2d0516730a40eddb43ccfccb)
It's a 24" body block for long, flat panels. On to the skim coat!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8403.JPG&hash=927011b2f72d606ec3ce4eb78f0b95d125d6ec5d)
The panel was mostly straight with just a few imperfections. There were a few low spots after the first skim coat which I took care of with a touchup coat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8404.JPG&hash=f096f0e19de867dd149aab89d30695ede33096db)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8405.JPG&hash=9d533a38b262567adf0661acecd9c158d3118872)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8407.JPG&hash=cf64bbbf727272898466e1f2b9f3709ff37e1c41)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8409.JPG&hash=5e702021ace499dcf39d15fe572377e4bd857c2d)
I just liked the way this looked in sanded steel:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8410.JPG&hash=fc3a7acbbc0bf6b865134b108859a37cddf31289)
I then skimmed and sanded the upper section:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8412.JPG&hash=967d9c4d17c7c9b49f3d8aa005dffc880497e59f)
I also smoothed out the body seam where the quarter is welded to the rear cowl.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8413.JPG&hash=3d9d518e3ee001fa4af8506adbee6ebdb80221e7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8416.JPG&hash=f33cf5ac53dc109863f749ebb1199d34b55fbbb9)
I built a little "paint booth" over the rear quarter so I could prime and paint it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8423.JPG&hash=beb78c9063749fab80de7697baac0526ccf41b02)
Here is the quarter after I tack clothed it right before the first coat of primer.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8424.JPG&hash=92b05be20aa41b792116c2663454916eb0e6323e)
After the first coat of primer:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8425.JPG&hash=82379e756719ca49e016ee3c99785c2c9ed6ccfd)
I sanded the first coat with 240 grit paper and then put a second coat:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8427.JPG&hash=872eba86a3ec7fa7b010c670e4c240074867b299)
I sanded the second coat of primer and then at this point, I put the trim studs back on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8430.JPG&hash=174fc9af4f95770f0871e74f9ae8679bed03d067)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8431.JPG&hash=a0925c008ab87281d62c571c32c4c34d6c237b0f)
Finally, I sprayed a single stage coat of the body color on. Again, this is not the final paint job. It's just something to make it so it's not sitting around in primer until I do the real paint job.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8432.JPG&hash=4158dd1c23d4175a934f581bf53f9fb8924a0afd)
I pulled the rear bumper end off while I was painting the rear quarter. The rub strip was a bit oxidized, the lens needed to be polished, and it was a little rusty on the inside.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8443.JPG&hash=8a04140c94c3234935ac261c3c5b5d002dd59959)
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I masked off all the chrome, sandblasted the rust from the inside, and then painted the bare metal black.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8447.JPG&hash=84e8f706a24da1a2e0f99c6c761e070c8ffb5023)
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The gray rubber bump strips on the car clean up nicely with rubbing compound.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8448.JPG&hash=bd2cb594f62d19ed467f8409e04d90c472fe267b)
The reflector came out nice after a quick polishing also.
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The sides and top of the reflector are supposed to be painted gray to match the bumper strip. I'll have to have to paint mixed as none of the 6 shades of gray I had on the shelf were even close.
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I then put parts back on the bumper end and put the bumper end back on the car. I also reinstalled the (incorrect) quarter panel extension that I had previously painted.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8470.JPG&hash=e578ef42b37e9bce3a9eb1e5f129cd78831d1e53)
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I also put new "window fuzzy" on the outer rear quarter window molding. The reproduction piece of rubber fuzzy molding did not have a guide that was on the factory one so I 3D printed a new one out of ABS plastic and riveted it on where it should have been mounted.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8476.JPG&hash=5c5c8e0723b5dd2436f34e77a09bc9804bff5b85)
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And lastly, the most important part: I got the cigarette lighter installed in the armrest.
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One thing that I have wanted to do for a while is pull the gas tank and make sure there was not a ton of crap in it. It did sit for decades so I wanted to be sure. The hoses came off with no problems.
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The tank itself came down with out any fuss. Nothing was rusty and the tank strap bolts came out with no problems.
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Fortunately, the tank was quite clean inside. The filter sock was very clogged though and it was also split on one side.
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I put a new filter sock on and put the sender back in the tank. I also cleaned the contacts on the float sender.
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The trunk pan under the tank was in great condition.
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And the tank went back up with no issues.
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Next I pulled all the remaining things off the firewall that I had not already removed and cleaned up. This included the cruise control module, the vacuum tank and the wiper motor.
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I also removed the wiper linkages and all the trim from the cowl area. I had already replaced the seam sealer where the cowl and the firewall meet a while ago.
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The firewall just needed a wipe down but the cowl needed to be repainted. I masked it off and sprayed it with the same satin black I have been using for just about everything else.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8703.JPG&hash=553e6abed0946ddea8b1577835bb271ba328bb4d)
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After the first coat of paint, I put the cowl tag back on as well as several of the bolts and retainers that should match the cowl.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8705.JPG&hash=297f91088f6cd6c6cb96682c90054e7de449e143)
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I then sprayed everything with the second coat.
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Each of the items that I removed from the firewall/cowl needed a little work. I started with the cruise module. There was not much to do with it but the filter for the lower solenoid had turned to dust and the housing was a bit rusty.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8555.JPG&hash=e7a364e52db0bfb9fe2d0623763aebdc8506fe4c)
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I cleaned up the filter housing and painted it. I also made a new filter and gasket (the old gasket broke when I took it off).
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8683.JPG&hash=2e9ecfddcae56f25e2d8fc2d09026ed5564a4067)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8684.JPG&hash=f14a52eaa77bb64894e2fb75255c9c5ca4329632)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8686.JPG&hash=850715c2f9480f171e407a55dffb52f8fa930a46)
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I reattached the cruise module to it's bracket, hooked up it's vacuum lines, and then bolted it back on the firewall.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8690.JPG&hash=f0921b8ad3fb8130cff8efb3466c56182281689f)
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Thanks for posting Mitch. Was wondering what you were up to. I can't wait to see what your "real paintjob" looks like.
Beautiful work as always, Mitch. Inspiring for me, personally. Thank you for the excellent pictures, descriptions, tips and techniques. Very telling on why body and paint is priced the way it is currently. You are an Artist!
Just after I got the car, I tested the wipers. They seemed to wipe OK but the washer pump made a horrible grinding noise so I just unplugged it and never messed with it again. On these old GM cars, the washer pump is cam driven off the wiper motor and it's common for the seals to fail and gum up everything with washer fluid. You can still buy entire replacement pump kits which actually upgrade the pump to pump more washer fluid. I started out by unhooking all the wiring from the pump portion of the motor assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8561.JPG&hash=2afcac62dcde12f8399fb2f1214ff93738efe12b)
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With the wiring unhooked, I took the pump portion of the motor assembly off and laid it out with the new pump assembly. There is a set of electrical connections and switches that have to be moved over to the new assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8573.JPG&hash=aa9131da1484c7bb11c89d3a1f87c6b26f805ac7)
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With the pump assembly off, I proceeded to take the rest of the wiper motor apart to clean it up and re-grease it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8601.JPG&hash=d5988f8cb8712a6fc2a9f1bdea14e3daeae5890b)
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I cleaned and painted the housing and put everything back together with new grease.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8664.JPG&hash=774de6ee608697abb7af2ba74cb730eb27e4349a)
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The wiper linkages were in decent shape. They just needed a little cleaning and the pivot joints re-greased.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8696.JPG&hash=fd26138335f1b883f9bcdfaa22783fed814ad0b1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8695.JPG&hash=2429490eed7b1eead4aaef2a352408d37eeeba31)
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I cleaned everything up and put new grease in the joints.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8699.JPG&hash=962ea4d355aa53e5559eef6928417e00ebd5c00a)
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With everything now cleaned up, I put the wiper linkage, the lower windshield trim, the cowl screen, and the hood gasket back on the cowl.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8714.JPG&hash=f68c7ff646900cf85da52af495cf81bad28bf51e)
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I need to polish the lower stainless windshield trim but I don't have the correct buffing wheels right now. I will buff it out later when I buff all the stainless trim.
I was planning on started the seat upholstery over the Christmas/New Years holiday but I had an opportunity to buy a really nice complete convertible top assembly. I quickly shifted plans and grabbed the top before it got away from me.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8571.JPG&hash=c102503738de8c0a564629cbfa295de965d364ec)
It's an aftermarket replacement top of a good quality manufacturer and it came with all the actuator parts and new weather stripping. I paid less for all the parts than just what the weather stripping would cost.
With the new top safely stored away, I started taking my old top out of the car. The first thing I had to do was take all the interior panels I put back into the rear of the car back out. I then separated the top from the lifting arms. This top is what is referred to as the GM "scissor top". It was GM's first (I think) all electric top and was used on all full sized convertibles from '71-'76. The top fabric and it's roof bows bolt to the lifting arms and also clip to the body shell opening. I had to unbolt the bows and unclip the top from the body.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8518.JPG&hash=c9c010b697d55d11bea76ac6f051428dbdd708ff)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8519.JPG&hash=ee2be80f1e40e4d2a451cb4a29cd172124674ccf)
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Here you can see why it's called a "scissor top". These arms are the main lifting arms and when fully extended, form the upper opening where the side glass closes into when the top is up and the window are closed. The ends of the arms lock into the windshield header with pins and the front bow (removed in this pic) has the locking handles to secure the top to the windshield header.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8524.JPG&hash=4e047c06a225ae36bcbaa85401f60b98af45ce1f)
Here is a video (not mine) of an Impala with the same top being run up and down with no fabric on it so you can see how it works:
https://youtu.be/lyEj_PiIIfI?t=126 (https://youtu.be/lyEj_PiIIfI?t=126)
Normally when the fabric is on the top, there is a cable on each side that pull that back bow and 2nd bow in place. With no fabric on the top, there is no place for the cable to run.
My original plans were to just unbolt the entire top with the lifting arms and actuators all in one shot. It turns out that the whole assembly weighs about 250lbs so that was out of the question. With the top itself out of the way though, I could remove each lift arm out by itself which made the job actually manageable without gantry hoist.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8570.JPG&hash=acc3921e4adf9570789f495b9b0322e9ddd02233)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8578.JPG&hash=03f5b12e90c6b58c89b8fc89c1d8503d01c2ad50)
With everything out of the top well, I wanted to focus on cleaning up the well and the trunk since they are the same space. If you recall, I had already started on the trunk some time ago by taking out all of the old carpet, sound deadener material, and some of the old seam sealer. I continued on and removed the remainder of the seam sealer and the body plugs.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8577.JPG&hash=2375a6200198175fd977092a6c74ac2c8a7fc013)
I also removed the trunk pull down latch, the rear wiring, and the fiber optics for the rear lamp indicators.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8583.JPG&hash=34198a0d9fc77ae3c32780a0475eeee035a43eb4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8584.JPG&hash=fbd42e75707f90fe11ecb42b232b08202a83b007)
With everything out of the trunk and all the old seam sealer removed, I coated everything with POR-15.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8597.JPG&hash=51028f79eb356757690d8a56b0caf62fee05bcbe)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8598.JPG&hash=3c910d5bea4b351a63b40d723112725ded52e9fd)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8599.JPG&hash=549594b7d2c588874da4a38c4601830cc9378d8a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8600.JPG&hash=f1d1324b6ef959a53af3963161a8c5d19ff3583d)
After the POR-15 dried, I put new seam sealer in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8625.JPG&hash=878ee45b222e752ce7a4e57be45a7fae0aee57e5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8624.JPG&hash=8ea25531d647ad1ca73a685b43cb5dface513310)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8623.JPG&hash=6f2179e8904ae97f1b1177edbc3733f20556af25)
One of the thing I want to do is make the trunk floor flat. I probably will build a wooden false floor to bring the floor height up to the height of the hump in the middle but for now, I want to fill the punched ribs in the floor. I used strips of the butyl sound deadener to fill the ribs.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8626.JPG&hash=73482a285f78bd48f7b0e4873b37c8af041803f9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8627.JPG&hash=5aa4d332dda1c5c5e4690faedd50d4caadc19c97)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8628.JPG&hash=7747c4a025672379a6dec398547e186613e575ab)
With the ribs filled, I put a layer of the sound deadener over the entire trunk floor and top well.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8659.JPG&hash=489f8e8c9a316acf3285f5cb83273658cc8f1b9d)
While I had the trunk pull down latch out, I needed to repair a wire on the motor and take care of a little rust on the motor shell. The pull down latch assembly lives inside a metal shell and there was a mouse nest in it. I'm guessing that mouse pee rusted the housing. The wire looks like it was chewed but every one I have seen looks like this.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8721.JPG&hash=a0435bb8ad122dbd674b28df32b4ad8ab3365317)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8723.JPG&hash=e61c1b31274b2441eac4645f711fedc7dee5c37b)
I pulled the motor off and took the end cover off to replace the wire.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8724.JPG&hash=0878cd04e253c513b97bf04c70e9f54de6b904b3)
I ground off the rivet that held the wire in place and removed the old wire.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8725.JPG&hash=00b58b84a1b91e6d7637e655b265195194718412)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8726.JPG&hash=edbca43636bb8cfc215bab1a71ba8c7c1b4cae4a)
I then made a new wire and soldered it in. Once it was soldered in, I cut it to length and crimped on a new terminal.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8729.JPG&hash=c3c0d0c593dc0b259b25294dd83141920e6995f9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8730.JPG&hash=01fd51ad4f02ad9939bfc7865579f54f82abc366)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8731.JPG&hash=5c3ca2fd5d5fa84e632b4b12dec6579fac1b7928)
With the wire fixed, the trick now is to get the motor back together. When it was new, they put the rotor into the brush holder, latched the brush springs, dropped the stator over the assembly, put the gear on the end, and then peened over the end of the shaft. Since I can no longer get the gear off the end of the shaft, I have to hold the brushes open so I can put them over the commutator down inside the motor. I made a cut washer on a string that would hold the brushes in the latched position but still allow the rotor to slide between the brushes. The cut in the washer allows the washer to slide around the rotor shaft once the rotor is pushed down. Once the rotor was in place, all I had to do was pull the washer out with the string. It took a few tries but it finally worked.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8741.JPG&hash=6d6150c8e747bfa074c50f9c9f30a746a518dbbd)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8742.JPG&hash=127855d89b40073d9e56aac58b01505a788733d9)
And here it is back in the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8750.JPG&hash=6ed1ad0c744b3b68dad2607aa16d35e15aaec880)
Another thing I tried out was some more fake dichromate finishing on some of the AC hoses. This hose was still in serviceable condition but it looked crusty.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8358.JPG&hash=ac66d7937262b7fb55882ffdbaece55e9175fa08)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8359.JPG&hash=65923c6a88c4edc930667484c1e506f5aa2d019f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8360.JPG&hash=e2e6af6431467c51d9b7bd990b3d6ed57fbe8bed)
I used a brass brush to clean up the corrosion and then taped off the hose and the fitting end.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8651.JPG&hash=9fe81ba1fb2ad1d985c61a4e7655c30063a98d8e)
I then spayed it with metallic gold and while it was still wet, metallic silver.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8713.JPG&hash=25ee7d3df024886d6d6f50fd3dab6fe9481e17fd)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8712.JPG&hash=9f41e17494fe5a01cac6be6020b936b9773a5333)
I did the same process on the other hose also.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8452.JPG&hash=1fbfbc743b62f30009021f60c3733990b890540f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8461.JPG&hash=77435ef225239b7105803d0725de285721dab8f0)
Back to convertible top fun. Here is one of the lifting arms. With the mounting brackets and gearbox, I would say that it's easily 60lbs or more.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8748.JPG&hash=d7727065026e810cb938b6c6fac83ff6ebb5ec7c)
The lifting arms seem to be in very good condition with only some surface rust on them. They are exposed inside the car with the top up so they will need to be refinished. I started out by removing the very heavy duty mounting bracket. The bracket weighs about 20 lbs and that large bolt is a 1-1/8" hex.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8644.JPG&hash=47870a59c5bcd4ba9c24bdf2efad7de45c79c6f6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8648.JPG&hash=c8abc207f681e003dd123f4f673ed9b3b099cdf9)
Next I removed the worm drive gearbox from the arm assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8645.JPG&hash=8c3a982bd841968a11ef0b4d4dea85cb6688aeff)
And here are all the parts of the lifter arm assembly. The push bar and middle joint of the arm are all riveted together and at this point, I'm not going to cut the rivets out as it appears that some of them were installed before parts of the arm were welded together.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8646.JPG&hash=1c4a9a1c555e2c78589285a11be3644707cf4149)
The worm drive gearbox is very robust and it not an item that commonly fails. It gets it's input power from a central motor mounted between both arms and the power from the motor is transmitted via a steel cable similar to a speedo cable. Both arms are driven by the same motor and synchronization is achieved by manually closing the top with the cables unhooked and then hooking both cables up. The gearbox was not in horrible condition but all of the grease had hardened and it needed to be repainted.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8649.JPG&hash=5181e67829bd3481dc402f048b8cb186c67657c6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8650.JPG&hash=9a3aeed873bfede40c73449404a4bbbd75f42eee)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8654.JPG&hash=2358344130729182c1afc96a107359d0391a5ea4)
IMG_8658.JPG
The input shaft had to have the smallest roller thrust bearing I have ever seen. The OD of the bearing is about .375"
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8655.JPG&hash=978a83c5b1938fd1be7da538fa21a98d6718ca3b)
The top of the gearbox has a rubber flap that is supposed to help keep debris out of the inside but the bottom of the box had a nice collection of ground up bugs and leaves in it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8656.JPG&hash=dce63aba3d9980e2b5d15923f98df95909367a9b)
Here is a little update. I put the drivers side actuator gearbox back together after I cleaned and painted everything.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8752.JPG&hash=3bfa5cd8630c38bc4102db86cd5d52d26cbe0586)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8753.JPG&hash=e02e6a47621e4ea069c5b9a4ceae3cebeb979baf)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8754.JPG&hash=9cfb0525f5de9d50e55a29fc334aaa71af6accbc)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8755.JPG&hash=7c3b61c38a032c458e816994690210e4c275cc6c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8757.JPG&hash=f57a38b98355d9e812f1c076fafc31ef49c1c29b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8758.JPG&hash=52767750b6c06361d751cdc1ec0bd7afe86d6d6b)
I then painted the mounting brackets and mounted the actuator back into the bracket assembly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8759.JPG&hash=bf56edeefb9b7817191dd35b4b4ee24d1d3f4e36)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8760.JPG&hash=fdc481c74b2b879b6b4c68923ca4b5c92171af60)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8761.JPG&hash=86c16f7e9b2d272ff84e795d0d13498b650f4a1e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8763.JPG&hash=91d988525b29b4d41e428e978df09e4a50326bd9)
My top frame assembly is in much better overall condition than the one on the top assembly that I purchased so I have decided that I will reuse mine and just move the fabric over from the old frame to mine. This will give me a chance to completely go over all the parts of the frame and to make sure that the top is as clean as it can possibly be. It does have some soot on the underside from the fire that was in the car it came from. Here is my front bow. The front bow on the top I bought is rusted on the ends so I don't want to use that. The only rust in mine is under the tack strip on the front edge.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8776.JPG&hash=7cd885cad071ef7328c5cca54bfe43d77c33c039)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8775.JPG&hash=e852131a91048ab80abcb81b3662864b8b65b4a9)
I sand blasted it and all the rust came out. There was minimal damage and only two of the tack strip retainer tabs had any rust damage.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8778.JPG&hash=0b50c02e06050fabffc7bfc33125bde96e556f7b)
One of latching handles had always been a bit stiff. It turns out that the stamping that make up the body of the handle has a little bit of extra metal sticking up and it was grinding into the handle itself when opening the latch.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8770.JPG&hash=ae3ed1ddc947507574e2a341b275145fabab9c43)
I ground down the bump and now the latch opens smoothly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8771.JPG&hash=5f5b64caa971b7154a635e08e6a8a212c19e5e01)
Since I already had the drivers side actuator and arm apart, I went ahead and took the passenger side apart also. It was very similar to the drivers side with minor surface rust and caked on grease in the gearbox plus the ground up leaves and bugs.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8780.JPG&hash=f576b164dd226509b74bfd1769ef3143ea2182ce)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8788.JPG&hash=cffd110df475d9f82fc4842869e0d954377b5fea)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8792.JPG&hash=5fa76bb7c180449c80a0b3c726728dea7d699114)
One thing that I don't know if I have mentioned before is that this car had almost every nook and cranny filled with dirt dauber wasp nests. If it was hollow and had an opening, there was a dirt dauber nest in it. Here is what came out of just the passenger side lifter arm:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8789.JPG&hash=a16a6a7b663704dadbb2a7596bc1dd7d818ca1b2)
And there is the lifter arm frame after sandblasting:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8790.JPG&hash=df3876d6d06df43dc5ea3809707d13609a366f72)
I hope to have both lifter arms with gearboxes and the front bow painted this weekend and hopefully all of those parts back in the car to start aligning them. I just got the new tack strip material in today and that was the last part I needed for this set of parts.
So the first coat of paint has cured on the front bow and I sanded the part that you can see when the top is up to give it a second coat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8801.JPG&hash=fe0c05be8c1a7cdaa4017df18a79d6562ccf0750)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8802.JPG&hash=b1d85c0b8de049e9ac2d8dee00853260ff0377c4)
And I gave it a heavy second coat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8803.JPG&hash=e36c0ac2e66bc02c71981834c993658d275b26c4)
I also cleaned, blasted and painted all the parts of the passenger side gear box.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8799.JPG&hash=eac7a80eda7335ded4a1a6f787e2e9908f5169ec)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8800.JPG&hash=2af5fd0a9e0362d601bdef0cc95f16d21e78f472)
I then put the gearbox back together.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8804.JPG&hash=f9e95738f8f1d3b9ced449b6b1f1cb478aa2fef2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8805.JPG&hash=460e68541c7b3a88994dc389bd6dfba9dd17113b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8806.JPG&hash=9f2e130333051f5c0eaa1b5df33383082e292c89)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8807.JPG&hash=09e6fdc7ab3f78573bd8692e817178e87bbd1108)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8808.JPG&hash=4da2743b98ed561c1718f2a3becb0b2723d7693e)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8809.JPG&hash=c92c3dcae1594b627a994e1f58308fba8fd49808)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8810.JPG&hash=2aded5f50b30e9174ef4a345f148c00050e57c18)
The next parts are the latch handles. I have two sets so I'm going to just clean both sets up and put one set away as spares if I ever need them. One of them on the replacement top had a bent spring retainer but that was easy to bend back. I sandblasted all of them and I scotch brite wheeled the pot metal handles. All of the handles has a bit of casting flashing and general nicks and scratches that needed to be buffed out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8811.JPG&hash=61126b0bf64a605072da185f406c1dc54ab0ba0d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8812.JPG&hash=6e68ff9f67e27b669a7d6cc090059aabfa975809)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8813.JPG&hash=0078f18218f39c0e86475f5cebe8af38fe95d7f4)
As of right now, the paint is drying on both sets of latches.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8814.JPG&hash=6d35102370d4b60bc50e3cc42ec33f1a82dbb04b)
Since I have decided to move the replacement top material over to my existing frame, I needed to remove the material off of the old frame. There 6 separate parts that make up the top cover: the front seal, the top, the pads the rear curtain w/ the rear glass, the well liner, and the gutter. They come off the frame in that order so you start at the front and work your way to the back. Here is the front seal attached to the front bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8824.JPG&hash=8c25475927ed93dd888e0e3c2e698bc04ebeb610)
With the weather stripping removed, you can see the staples that hold the corners down.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8827.JPG&hash=43da8133f0f322ff995197ad4705e88652cd88ed)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8828.JPG&hash=b7182614226ffcd5706cca7ecc8ebc3b8071864f)
Once the corner staples have been removed, you can then fold the flap up and take out the remaining staples that hold the front seal on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8829.JPG&hash=c1c9e76ae0ff4e4372fcf11aaf9a60f17900c63d)
At this point, I realized that the 2nd bow was already loose and needed to come off before something got damaged. You can see that about 8 inches of staples had already been pulled out. This happened because the joints on the linkages that move the 2nd bow are worn out and the bow was binding up when it was opened.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8831.JPG&hash=d37dc356518d31f72536a9a43fd36a1e3bfe722f)
I marked the center of the staple tack strip so I could center it back up and pulled the 2nd bow out completely.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8835.JPG&hash=6e9cb9307237f17ea481774e93c2803dc57613ef)
Here is the bad ball joint on the 2nd bow and what a new one looks like.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8845.JPG&hash=cb08cbaa6cedfa5d1da2e6725a64a7388ec8ed6a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8846.JPG&hash=a8c65b13f246d70bc1990baa0ae41fdc44538147)
With the 2nd bow out of the way, I went back to the front bow to get it completely removed. Under the front seal were more staples that held the top itself to the front bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8838.JPG&hash=0a32370afa076843d293ed50e8ade595d054ac65)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8839.JPG&hash=dcb8275ec17aebf9cf722ac80a2ad6ec33a398da)
Like the strip for the 2nd bow, I marked the center of both the front seal and the top for alignment on the other frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8836.JPG&hash=0a41752c44a8d039e04b29b5fb98f0965afbc173)
After all the staples were out along the front, I was able to peal it back off the front bow to expose the side flaps. The installer had glued the front flap to the front bow. It's supposed to be stapled only, not glued. I think I can clean all the old glue off though.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8840.JPG&hash=25cabad31110f7aa6bb7ce87ef6cdc3ece0a4a07)
This front bow is bad. It's not completely scrap but it's close. The corners are rusted out and all the tabs that hold the tack strip in are rusted off and gone. Rather than replacing it, they just glued the tack strip in (poorly).
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8841.JPG&hash=b18ee5ead5789f1b0b567290040360962fe987eb)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8842.JPG&hash=a36636f4b05edc3fa00d38ebc5f310f3cf322f45)
Another thing I noticed is that this was not the first replacement roof this frame has had installed. I could tell that the tack strip had been replaced with an aftermarket one but under the top, there were old staples and bits of an old top that had not been removed before this one was put on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8843.JPG&hash=eed41de61ff269ab135265ee9bb92bc553dd997b)
With the front loose, I went around to the rear of the top. I made some alignment marks on the top to get it lined back up with the rear curtain and started pulling the staples around the rear sides.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8847.JPG&hash=b7f8e8fc42c2e2bb67d8728786d6fc96d0df5d9f)
Another install issue that I noticed was that they did not use stainless steel staples and they were starting to rust.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8848.JPG&hash=1a13726d4a0cd9f497567ccf679c4fdf3504c420)
I pulled all the staples around the drivers side an peeled it up off of the rear tack strip. You can also see a test spot where I scrubbed it to see how clean it will come.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8849.JPG&hash=66c8b367209bd2866374e3b44d262d37f457f22b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8850.JPG&hash=22b10a15963fb5976a089e3290b64baae2ad3f62)
Next, I folded the top frame up to expose the rear quarter window upper weather stripping. This piece retains the top around the window opening.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8851.JPG&hash=bdad93f75f9e27ddafd2e40d34b6a03b48f52b22)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8852.JPG&hash=639a3e2b9b393723417e43f252d36c81601f873c)
That section was supposed to just be held in with the weather stripping but it was glued also. I then moved over to the passenger side and did the same as the drivers side.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8854.JPG&hash=22104a8787971191c87d485a0e8795663f964e0f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8856.JPG&hash=6392a7226c5f6211a2a96d8e531db6d9550fac25)
Next I had to remove the staples from the 3rd bow. It's very similar to the 2nd bow and just has a flap with a carboard insert to stiffen it up.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8857.JPG&hash=541eb13a848da64a691ab0ff2f58feddcc67483d)
Lastly, there is a big zipper that holds the top to the rear curtain above the rear glass.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8859.JPG&hash=39c8a360e6a5b253e846e160c88b5202a24b6fce)
With the actual top off, next is the pair of pads. The protect the seam in the top and pad it from wear on the frame mechanisms. These pads are completely shot and they just fall apart in your hands. The only thing left of them is the upper liner. The foam and the heavy inner liner just crumble in your hands. They were screwed to the front bow, stapled to the 3rd bow and just the foam and upper liner portion continue on to the rear curtain where the foam is glued down.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8860.JPG&hash=79c8b0899f1afac908a0b67e34123ca8456aca3f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8861.JPG&hash=70a8958be87856f88f94f6cd0e4fba8422e9aaef)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8862.JPG&hash=6e83c55494703d7e2c3509cc47a963aff013e245)
Once the pads were off, the rear curtain with the rear glass is accessable.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8864.JPG&hash=f246d53f9acbe0b2006ca0879d6413337d662af7)
The white part is the apron and is the only fabric part of the curtain that is visible when the top is up. It's stapled along the rear tack strip.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8868.JPG&hash=a747158226b33093349ac707dd2720e84790864d)
With the staples out of the apron, the curtain is exposed. It was supposed to be stapled down but the installer just skipped that step. I pulled all the staples around the sides to free the curtain from the rear tack strip.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8870.JPG&hash=e438229b19384b3772e6382fb77e65f3c19d8934)
The last thing holding the curtain on was a row of staples on the 3rd bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8871.JPG&hash=8ef9ca4615d278e67e06b82b90211e488e84465c)
With the rear curtain out, next was the well liner. It did not have many staples holding it on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8872.JPG&hash=63194afe2965a30ea6286a98a4b86b92321cf4d0)
Lastly is the gutter. It does what it sounds like it does and directs water to the body drains.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8873.JPG&hash=f43b8421fa830ca93e3ff956d92da9031dd0a141)
While I had been working with the rear tack strip, I felt like something was wrong with it. The tack strip material was loose in the track on the ends and when I got down to the gutter, I found that it was installed completely wrong.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8874.JPG&hash=6f14e4880dd2808e469d85d8bfe54ddd8b813171)
The gutter is supposed to be stapled to the rear tack strip and just allowed to drape down on the outside of the tack strip. This installer stapled it on upside down and wrapped it around rear tack strip and let it drape down on the inside of the tack strip. This caused two problems: the gutter is now too shallow and lets the water pool up inside the gutter itself, and the water wicks that are supposed to go down the front of the inner wheel wells to the body drains were just cut off because they would have gotten caught up in the top mechanism. This let water spill under the back seat and into the trunk. Another issue with it installed incorrectly is that it was too tight and ripped on one side. Fortunately, the gutter on my old top is salvageable and I'll reuse that part. Once I got the gutter off, this is what I found:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8875.JPG&hash=f6898f78ff4118925c7a4d83bdffa1e97ee471a2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8876.JPG&hash=971ba7cadd03a70155c52b0f1cc96c86c0804ed6)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8877.JPG&hash=1612bf67d7a9cc3765a125eff8c06517df5b6048)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8878.JPG&hash=8a2e6f43e125d1ad848ea1fc53eb79e813174355)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8879.JPG&hash=c6369c0a71fc63f3a780f5caa6fa92defbe2fa74)
This rear tack strip is garbage. It's completely rusted out and was like that when they put this top on. The tack strip material was missing out of most of the channel and was replaced with the wrong type. On top of that, since they used the wrong type, they had to rivet it in just to get it to stay. Since they tried to rivet it in to rust though, they rivets just popped out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8880.JPG&hash=ae0b921177edaae88654a5b85d559cf247f07cca)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8881.JPG&hash=b60ae7505387361ccbcafb23709583c3fb4dabef)
On top of that, the front 18 inches or so of the passenger side was just completely rusted away. They cobbled in a piece of Home Depot C channel to replace the missing part but that just barely worked to get it out the door.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8882.JPG&hash=097171e4cd37552cbb09104afb59be434bdd2420)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8883.JPG&hash=fec498ac49d38a7e17a25dcfbd75dd749303f21b)
What I don't understand is why they even bothered wasting the time to botch up the rear tack strip when you can just order a brand new one for not much money at all.
I pulled a few staples.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8884.JPG&hash=48b83ac60d1844b38bf14d05ec9c128588677045)
While going though my collection of parts I noticed that the rubber seal on the replacement passenger side gearbox was in better condition than my existing one. One clip and one rivet later and I had it swapped over.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8866.JPG&hash=5aac961704e6d131e5e7bec64b6baaea5be44cfc)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8867.JPG&hash=806043a60678e44236b1ad6555265e9c4edd1ee3)
I also found that a specific carriage bolt on the replacement frame seem to be of a revised, stronger design. My existing one was worn so I swapped in the different ones.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8891.JPG&hash=011d25706b70dbeeca13d5576ec54524e5a542ed)
Next I mounted the drivers side lift arm to the gearbox and mounting frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8893.JPG&hash=25d49d080280da5e5df72dbf55950ff12b1cf336)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8892.JPG&hash=9b67d9c2694399caa6ea081d897c9b047bf6c65c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8894.JPG&hash=e0c4318e7a1b39ee30fb055f1efe059ab5ad266b)
With this arm assembled, I mounted it back into the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8895.JPG&hash=83435977c06d84d22ca00a76def827f2cedf1726)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8896.JPG&hash=e46bf14c0b44f354cafeefc26fa30b01b2e95687)
The arm was a little long and the front guide pin missed it's hole.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8897.JPG&hash=1a1bd44d0473e7860c20859f7880c512f31cb69e)
To correct this, you adjust the stop at the middle hinge and that adjust the length of the arm by allowing the joint to pivot more or less at that point.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8898.JPG&hash=f15efa475513e9d66b94fe68a21fc0ecbc93904d)
After putting the drivers side arm together and back on the car, I found out that it's much easer to just put it together in pieces on the car rather than building it on ground and then mounting it to the car. I mounted the bracket first.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8901.JPG&hash=ea97154353d9c6e7aed5848e698705c8c6e99aee)
And then the arm to the bracket.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8902.JPG&hash=faf26c19010fc2edb54ff1275a77de467a3315b2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8903.JPG&hash=c8ca14da9d0137011349764eede12a2a705e5b10)
And finally, the gearbox to the bracket and the arm.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8904.JPG&hash=a60f4cbcd5af0fa630b89e38ed516b1d1337387c)
I put a new tack strip on my front bow. You can see the tabs that hold the tack strip in that were missing on the other front bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8899.JPG&hash=77aafc78e557758782b9e3897622fa015cb33a9d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8900.JPG&hash=37403024394cfea5fa87298c77e815ea905c12bd)
And finally I bolted the front bow to the two arms.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8905.JPG&hash=bfb71b2b34004b9663b2fa70302d131bd98763a3)
One of the last things under the hood I needed to refinish was the top of the radiator shroud. It has various stickers on it and I just had never bother to get some reproduction stickers so I could refurbish it properly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8906.JPG&hash=b93aea7fd81fe204fac10f33b4f9bc6cd50386a3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8907.JPG&hash=e38c079fedb58c109a1db23d2eee4ac8f442fc46)
I removed the old decals (deck-uls for our Canadian friends) and sandblasted it.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8908.JPG&hash=71c25d0905d0376c7d8ea304ae1012bb264e2b56)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8909.JPG&hash=9df4701169b025f1004b62d85f84aac268a18486)
And then I painted it to match the other parts under the hood and put the repro decals (deck-uls) on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8931.JPG&hash=85bf8f7e78ca7ba81c4a35e1b7d9e6081dbd59da)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8932.JPG&hash=bfade6a6ef084ad9552a1c4cddd2e836d74d296d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8933.JPG&hash=4e5150c0a1b735af31b07915a82a002bfbcf826d)
Back to the top frame. The 2nd bow is the next part to work on. It just had a little surface rust in places and the pivot arms needed to be replaced. I removed the old arms, sandblasted the bow, and painted it to match the other frame parts.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8890.JPG&hash=b2e8dc53526e73e47971865fc20dea65c2bff13b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8911.JPG&hash=13f2ae4de8815fd57b763a53271731f3fe584403)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8910.JPG&hash=974a53db491bafdc7d782dab11b25ec32401c70a)
Next I put a pair of new pivot arms on. The pivot arm kit comes with brand new arms and all new mounting hardware.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8913.JPG&hash=1072a663f2c22bfaaf1fa8278497ed5f59a65562)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8912.JPG&hash=dc4c31bb5899dfc22e4158f8ac9872cca7d27410)
I also reinstalled the pivot arm wear sliders in the lifter arms.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8914.JPG&hash=e82dd03f54df3c8b18c54b2b00cdaab187e0e226)
The pivot arms point forward on the lifter arms and allow the 2nd bow to remain parallel to the windshield while the lifter arms fold up when the top is being put down. When the top is up, they lock into tabs on the lifter arms and help keep the arms aligned with the door glass so the weather stripping makes a tight seal on the top of the door glass.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8915.JPG&hash=b1b276efc64c5f54808f74c360b6744310ab87e4)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8916.JPG&hash=8b6b8a55bb905a0bc8a5e7c6f2958f781b7eaeac)
Here is how the pivot arm folds when the lifter arms fold inward when the top is going down.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8920.JPG&hash=5c6fb688a8692109399761e9c5dfc24f5153cb69)
Next to go back on are the latching handles. Previously, both of them had sticking problems and the passenger side was almost impossible to latch. You had to push the top down from the outside while moving the latch handle to even get it close to latching. After I sandblasted, refinished, and greased them, they worked perfectly the first time. I think there were a few issues that made it hard to latch before: the old top material was binding up the top frame, the 2nd bow pivot arms were worn and not helping to keep the arms aligned, and most of the pivot joints were either too loose or tightened up too tightly.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8923.JPG&hash=49a9beb08ed75c7a2108a65b718730b4b0372937)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8924.JPG&hash=b5176c680fd90c400c605a5d9e6607836588e096)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8925.JPG&hash=a33188d26e8af6c0414efcf9f76bc3b39638d7b5)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8926.JPG&hash=6fb81f3b0b54f48e2dac97ec78607cba69e86306)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8928.JPG&hash=6175f10d972d09fb36c1a0d9777be24758925bb3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8929.JPG&hash=e8530228425e0e63d6aefc81908e7550ed596f60)
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Lastly, I added the trim molding across the upper inside lip of the front bow. That's where you grab the front bow to pull it down when you are latching the top down.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8930.JPG&hash=d808fef029bb80ed3a8799e70cf2c3884d359c69)
While I'm waiting for some materials I need to arrive to continue working on the top installation, I finished a few other things that were still not done. The first one was the last of horns. This car has the optional trumpet horn which gives it a total of four horns. I had already cleaned up and reinstalled the first two horns plus the trumpet horn, the last one was the one that goes on top.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8952.JPG&hash=0f02c88d62174e91ab2d592a7ddce5eb9d796f9d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8953.JPG&hash=bd7796af3c0de1c333a9b94c54bb7124f9fa993d)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8956.JPG&hash=6d30c08d4e0556621db8711183a0c3da2d9fd648)
And finally installed:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8957.JPG&hash=b7135aa1d4bc908e5bcff0cc2f864ff1b437ce8c)
This car also has the optional auto dimming high beams. I have had the bracket for the sensor refinished for a long time but I just had never gotten around to putting it all back together. The light sensor assembly has a bracket, the sensor, a boot to control the incoming light and a few screws and springs.
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The boot mounts around the bracket and the sensor mounts behind the boot using the springs and an adjuster screw.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8969.JPG&hash=7116d2f6492eb66e0575dcef38480e0b4d34c440)
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There is a bubble level mounted to the sensor housing so you can level it out.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8971.JPG&hash=b930ae893128833c8e8ee5c73ea4374cd2a9c1c2)
The assembly mounts forward of the radiator and condenser between the grill and the top of the front support.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8972.JPG&hash=3c72a5cf77b2e34f8f1c18aa90b0d67479bfd9db)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8973.JPG&hash=40fe25cd5d1538739c24d248e2a1082048b9849a)
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There is a hole in the upper front support where you can look down and see the bubble level. You adjust the lower screw until the bubble is in the middle.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8975.JPG&hash=990bb38adbba519d43d8ad8ed4de0c4811e338a7)
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I was actually fairly surprised that it worked perfectly the first time I plugged in the sensor.
I did continue to refinish the remaining bows on the top frame. All of these remaining bows are too large to fit in any of the sandblasters I have access to but fortunately, they are not very rusty at all. I started with the 3rd bow which mostly just needed the old glue removed and a light sanding. This bow is just behind the rear quarter windows and controls the rear side of the top.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8950.JPG&hash=45ec18617a22692cf5c3e496508320648f68e1ff)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8951.JPG&hash=101fe789043b2fa7eaa5c09be85c6e31434e098b)
The 4th bow is just a guide bow and nothing is actually attached to it. It's purpose is to push the top of the back window up and give the top it's shape where it changes direction from the roof to the back glass curtain area. It also has a plastic cover that goes on the underside of the bow itself.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8949.JPG&hash=727f3dbf0991727cf93dff2050d30262585c7dd9)
The last piece is the rear tack strip. It is a large bow that lays horizontal under the rear body opening. It's what all of the top pieces are stapled to around the sides and rear of the car. When the top is up, there is a lever section on the sides that pushes the bow up against the underside of the body to make the top fit tight to the body opening all the way around the car. This is also on the other frame that was so badly rusted and then cobbled back together. This original one just had a bit of light surface rust on the mounting bracket that I sanded and touched up. The 3rd and 4th bows bolt to the mounting bracket and the whole assembly then bolts to the actuator brackets.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8962.JPG&hash=c0d84399ad44a292b1d1cdf839f8733b71c049ba)
Since virtually all the cloth pieces of the top staple to this part of the frame, I'm going to staple as many of the parts on before I mount this section back into the car.
The first part that will be stapled to the rear tack strip bow is the gutter. I'm reusing my old gutter as it's in much better condition than the one that came with the replacement top. All it really needs is to be cleaned up and new tails attached. You can see below that it cleaned up nicely.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8958.JPG&hash=cfec218211d0b30cc180b61e848b2c46b3d08edf)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8959.JPG&hash=8371863775f337e60792cbddca5e9bbc489e8c96)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8960.JPG&hash=6f1c778f5a9124a9e6745c81ac6ef011b2503bf2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8961.JPG&hash=577a110c03cb03f0b60b78405255b77df5c88d05)
The tails direct the water that collects in the gutter down the front of the wheel well and to the drains in the body. they were torn off of both sides on my gutter and I just made new ones from pieces of the old top that were still in useable condition.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8963.JPG&hash=2511a54b5e751063ef1e376ad7cd22e60d00ea9f)
The old tails had just torn off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8965.JPG&hash=052e186fbf85228d69f9e11133806f0a32298d93)
I also finished up a few other things on the lifter arm part of the top frame. These guide blocks keep the top frame from rubbing together when it's folded up. They mount near the latch handles.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8938.JPG&hash=5bfe4e52291130663ba1e1235295fed8f31abe03)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8939.JPG&hash=e1e7d614eb01847eb95bc4b894c54412559a1a65)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8940.JPG&hash=a20604225a5855ea3c23f591c2d0e6bce51edaac)
I also mounted the upper weatherstripping for the door glass. This piece of weatherstripping mounts directly to the lifter arm and has a gutter section that helps guide water away from the door opening when it's raining.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8941.JPG&hash=31a6938ba21feae110da2cd0c9b5ab6cfb830977)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8942.JPG&hash=b24859a7c9e949cf51f7b95fe4c4161b024fbb38)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8943.JPG&hash=2f0b8dd0b93857d1952d96d1607f3c60256df0b3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8944.JPG&hash=6718bfe61ffd8f87259f96f1619f8fe4e3e10b6a)
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The matching piece of weatherstripping that goes on the top of rear quarter window is mounted to the 3rd bow. It does not go on until the top material is completely attached.
Here is an fairly dull little part: NOS wiper blade refills. I was surprised how hard it is to find the correct blade refills anymore.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9004.JPG&hash=57c44482e0f0362927f7969efeb718112f4517f7)
The old ones were very shot.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8996.JPG&hash=f6682e2431ce6d3b376ef39b60f3b88d6e505a65)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9002.JPG&hash=175995e65aecfd64abf610d459bf52b0033b4995)
The new blades just popped right in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8998.JPG&hash=3291ff93e03a1c6a343b38a0642b2024cb861bc9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8997.JPG&hash=941e2663ebc2d3d0bddf9e269150c718d3c88e83)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9001.JPG&hash=1452fdff69d22555e297c9f2458308bb4a6c4096)
My stainless steel staples arrived so I was able to start on the reassembly of the top. The first piece to go back on was the gutter. It has a notch cut in it where the center of the part is so you can line it up with the center of the frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8988.JPG&hash=dc451bfc9845134eeaca5cf0c6db1ab88b19df26)
After than, it's just a matter of going around the edges and stapling it all on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8989.JPG&hash=c952e99eaa4bb8f347ac560ea21ebc2c585c3ea3)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8990.JPG&hash=c4d87c77b6fb9cb7ffa18b03ad1e335d1c5a6ca8)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_8991.JPG&hash=86035db6175c0524fd01b8e6cad22e44428965b3)
Next is the well liner. It staples over the gutter but wraps over the top of the frame. When mounted in the car, it covers the well where the top retracts into. It has the same type of alignment notch as the gutter.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9006.JPG&hash=50f92ab10361d857ba3cb9d60579d21dc30d1a52)
It's "lightly" stapled all the way around like the gutter was.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9007.JPG&hash=7698fd5845f8f4c9ddf7dbe306ffcb1e2a9cc314)
Next I scrubbed the rear curtain to get the majority of the dirt and grime off of it before I installed it.
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And then I started to staple it to the rear bow. The section below the glass is two layers and they both have alignment marks to help get it centered.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9008.JPG&hash=e8bbf610adef9cafa3a4cf2e6567a8a8188fc98e)
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I continued to staple the curtain around the sides.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9011.JPG&hash=85175ba8c092714e363ea45219402df5419c80f8)
Both the black parts and the white flap have guide lines printed on them to help align the top material with the bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9010.JPG&hash=9a2802d69ed4e2372292048a188f9db1a763ac7f)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9014.JPG&hash=391d0bc43de0ae0b21dba389ba64ee5bc9572af5)
With the curtain stapled all the way around the sides, I stapled the top edge of the curtain to the 3rd bow. I made an alignment mark with the center mark on the 3rd bow before I took it off the other frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9013.JPG&hash=f18b5873462a27ae28cdd17be41ac5e1de9625e9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9012.JPG&hash=9805ee3b7264d13c311d1fd77d4af4e641410ea9)
And with all of the staples in the 3rd bow, this is how it sat.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9015.JPG&hash=e812c7fd6b052f422cab8c8143ff62ec131b7260)
Next up are the pads. They cover up the frame on the sides and protect the top from wear when the top is up. The lower canvas part is stapled to the 3rd bow and the middle foam and upper fabric extend back to the 4th bow and are glued directly to the curtain.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9018.JPG&hash=963ea5e3243b26935cfda1026afd6e9d77123c50)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9019.JPG&hash=9b3a1e580ab68c9bc29d1399d19539d82ea708ce)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9020.JPG&hash=8694f9354a50379882bb699f0d564e0921d14424)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9021.JPG&hash=b1d212c0c48b65d90653d5183fc752274f832e57)
For now, they just drape off the 3rd bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9022.JPG&hash=f366948f27c8872fe9cdd450d4490cc931518f32)
The actual top itself was quite dirty from sitting around and from the fire. It had soot on the underside and was just dingy on the outside.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9024.JPG&hash=8e871723705535a6e14eb32b07661bf11a9011c9)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9025.JPG&hash=b8090165ef60ff4de109324398db52a045fc8689)
A bit of test cleaning showed that it would come clean with a little bit of work.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9026.JPG&hash=5144220709b20689f8474af99d50ca66a9a39beb)
I laid the whole thing out and scrubbed it with a stiff brush. It came about 80% clean which is good enough to install it. The rest will come off easily when it's on the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9032.JPG&hash=6d8d978dc8763a1017ab5fc5848834843f370ae0)
On the sides, there was quite a bit of soot. It all came off easily.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9035.JPG&hash=ae5f62605df8a102ec5a0b38b0493b6ce53a877a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9036.JPG&hash=b8080de7ca6c72c769db91a6b1dc005e0d2047fc)
The rear sides where the top meets the rear quarter windows is glued to the frame. I think they used all the glue they had because it was 1/4" thick in places.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9038.JPG&hash=cdd6ce70d23d2c2acbbe18a28b4c82eed738f97d)
A brass brush and a plastic scraper did a great job of getting it off.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9039.JPG&hash=15767eefe8369cbcad2c335431f8ed6705b6eddd)
The other side was not quite as bad.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9040.JPG&hash=10880ed7d26f4cda6d2b8f39d370e7adc05046d1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9042.JPG&hash=8fe552b27a480a88635848c93a1ecad00d85ea17)
To put the top itself on the rear frame, you start with the zipper over the rear glass. This centers the top on the frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9043.JPG&hash=9f9f506ccd762c128505d5c823f5c755d6a305c4)
Next you run the guide cables though the 3rd bow frame and attach them to their posts. There are access holes in the bow frame to help guide the spring though the frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9044.JPG&hash=b74e1ca8049182d38bc13c5925064d77d04f557a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9045.JPG&hash=4e972f7351839bc8a3da2b72bfb49da34b68ef83)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9046.JPG&hash=539a23a892e074a9ec7f20d76d5012b775871f69)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9047.JPG&hash=34f1f6ae7dbd3407e3b075f4404ac7ab687cab22)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9048.JPG&hash=e5b44d93de3fd1e9b1152cd191b7c5f1f11df804)
And finally, you hook the cable though the guide ring at the top of the 3rd bow frame.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9049.JPG&hash=81aa0478d4e2c40fe37b0831983be2ab57058393)
Next I aligned the rear of the top with marks I made on the curtain at the rear tack strip.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9050.JPG&hash=f379fa4da2bbd051d93986a3cc254f567e9ba0d9)
And then I stapled it around the sides. You can see some rust staining and overspray from the car it came off of on the top material.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9052.JPG&hash=dbf59064d9639d896853c4a45537dd751c0600fe)
It all came off with a magic eraser dipped in lacquer thinner.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9053.JPG&hash=7d9eb3669fd13a2972f096562689edc90cecf6fe)
The other side was the same.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9054.JPG&hash=66adb5260b25e783ec873146dc591e4e898bc94a)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9055.JPG&hash=c981f90f6e29012c9d64e86f735640a338fbccd8)
With the rear attached, I aligned the staple tab to the middle of the 3rd bow and stapled it on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9051.JPG&hash=4dc1ce60e9625db40d47c8cacffe5e2a1a34e040)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9057.JPG&hash=3e47fcd7f5faa95c9a2d8e0a20a58360e3d8dbc4)
And with that, that is as far as I can go with the rear frame off of the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9056.JPG&hash=946a5515791647753a2620662a1ad404af4a0afd)
With everything attached to the rear frame that is possible, it was time to moved the rear frame back to the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9059.JPG&hash=6aac56b8bcf5ea1f31ecdb679a2a1990e2395c00)
The arms have to be about 1/3 folded back to access the upper bolts.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9061.JPG&hash=23a5efe74d882d057af5c6f3a6be5952bde8f02c)
With the arms half folded, next this is to put the gutter spring wire in it's slots on both sides.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9066.JPG&hash=fd9d4bf96a0de09bffaa8a77f862fcfaf7412e3c)
With the spring wire in the upper rear frame pivot bolts can go back in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9062.JPG&hash=a56c166a195db5c3a1cf7c44111a065ba8577b99)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9065.JPG&hash=d24b8ce04542887e9d21ef8076920d8d0d9bf9bd)
The next parts to go in are the rear glass lifters. They are very important at this step because if you try an put the top up all the way without them, the rear glass can get caught on the rear cabin wall and break the glass.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9068.JPG&hash=7290e44e9e18108d847b8ec0260d26c6a36fd44a)
They clip onto pivots on the body near the actuator mounts and then up on the bottom corners of the rear glass. The springs attach to mounts on the floor of the trunk but they have to be disconnected while I'm still reattaching the roof fabric.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9071.JPG&hash=dbacffad19db3d1b4937f0bf756f597b286bea90)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9070.JPG&hash=48eb61843900f23352186b7444d5cda2279b0dbb)
With the rear glass lifters in, I can pull the top material, pads, and guide wires forward over the 2nd bow. Like the other staple strips, the center is marked to line up with the center of the 2nd bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9072.JPG&hash=6ab23424041fe1dc68d23138921ebe160d7b340e)
I then stapled the strip across the 2nd bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9073.JPG&hash=217775d3fb62a906dfa3fd7e9bf3c4f6b219ab90)
The cables that run up though the 3rd bow frame have ears that mount to the outside ends of the 2nd bow. These ears help guide the 2nd bow into place as the top frame folds up and down. Without it, the 2nd bow can flop around and damage the staple strip on the top.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9074.JPG&hash=632c8a009c4be10202d150bdca4a0cba9a6cb993)
The ends of the cables have brackets that mount to the outside of the front bow. As the top opens, the top bow pulls the cables forward, this aligns the 2nd bow with the front bow and they also pull the 3rd bow forward. This also pull the 4th bow up which pushes the rear glass up. Without the cables, none of the rear top frame will work.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9075.JPG&hash=da0b519cd440a4a197bdbf8bf86dbf5ad2ef762a)
Now with the cables attached, here is how close the top is to wrapping over the front bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9076.JPG&hash=4adbda98847d5e7f752b01f8c1694011b596d888)
The next thing to do was to put the last two bolts into the frame. They attach the ends of the rear tack strip bow to the main frame. This allow the rear tack strip bow to pivot upwards and seal the top against the body around the rear body opening when the top is up. There is where the bolt goes. You can just barley see it from inside the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9081.JPG&hash=e01f0468cac0af1319b705019b87b0866ffb17d1)
With some assistance from my wife, we were able to get the bolts in both sides. I had to push the bow down while she worked the bolt in.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9084.JPG&hash=e8e8d8d21cf85a07d4e31659a93b1ba405a24557)
Next up was to attach the pads to the front bow. I had to retract the top about half way back to get enough slack in the pads to be able to attach them. They are attached to the front bow with three screws each.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9085.JPG&hash=00ac212b1cb19d654e984c760efd86602a5e18a1)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9086.JPG&hash=24df438bd2366d70b12755aad12138bb7da929e8)
After that, the ends of the front bow are wrapped in fabric tape to prevent the edges of the metal cutting through the top over time.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9087.JPG&hash=1f7a603b2ff010a0a406ebe3a2b0b500cdfc8ba7)
And finally before I stretch the top forward, I reattached the rear glass lift springs in the trunk so everything would have the correct tension.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9089.JPG&hash=1216e9bdfbcda192109c9daabe4b611de75dcf3c)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9090.JPG&hash=9b9b01b81b1229410933636f3410ff152ed87ce0)
There are a few layers on the front edge. The first one is the top itself. It has a center mark that lines up with a hole in the center of the bow.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9088.JPG&hash=b63350dd1fed8b0909e982c0a3d5b8f723cb4b45)
The ends are stapled down and then the front flap is folded over and stapled.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9091.JPG&hash=f03a141536f167fbc05f756a175ef8c49c657761)
Next is the front welt. It's a big piece of trim with a foam core that protect the front edge of the top and helps cover the staples. It was still a bit dirty so I cleaned it up first.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9092.JPG&hash=8fb20507917804c4eaa2a7883902017790bf56f7)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9093.JPG&hash=02f058160abb3c0373d89a8a6067a726fafcd166)
It has two layers and the staples go into the inside layer. It's mounted directly over the staples on the tops front edge. There is a center alignment mark like all the other parts had.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9094.JPG&hash=d096fdfe4199416dad840d1b4cb1a6bd393947df)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9095.JPG&hash=30f77bcd35950df933f60bd5ddb04557da07da4c)
Here it is with the outer lip folded back over.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9096.JPG&hash=18c9f4cd354064a753cff17f1d27140553a824cc)
The last piece is the actual weatherstripping for the front bow. The one that was on the car was still in great shape so I just cleaned it up and snapped it back on.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9097.JPG&hash=b458b84d0e28713f240c194d23bbdcb5e59e7d76)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9098.JPG&hash=abba94c3a472fc9d8663a6cca120742894fa85eb)
With everything stapled in, the entire frame bolted together, and all the springs installed, I was able to close the top and see how it fits.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9100.JPG&hash=0564d1dc6ecf65e69625a9f094065e1f73e770cb)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9103.JPG&hash=11041fefb6b41962817ed8a8e0f9f95a5cd83cea)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9101.JPG&hash=45e95a24118a9a37910f80ba901a5b85e82b40cc)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9102.JPG&hash=24948fdf046f29e987421377f2276ae9426aef46)
The fit looks good and there are just a few little things left to do. After it's stretches for a few days I will glue the sides in where the rear quarter window weather stripping mounts. There are also a handful of some small things that have to go back together on the inside.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9099.JPG&hash=48fadb97ee34f4d3fb64368e3d2c0a88a19135c8)
I glued the rear opening flaps on and installed the rear quarter window weatherstripping. I also noticed that I had one of the cables run incorrectly so I fixed that.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9105.JPG&hash=8879d58fef5713f39f15e9c415bc45f3cf446907)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9106.JPG&hash=a8db02a2aa0810315bae7c1a415931d0515b5df2)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9107.JPG&hash=403a36b5ddfaad03a43f6c4974060949403045ea)
This is the first time that I have been able to completely close the interior up since I have owned the car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9108.JPG&hash=11098768d1a27568e6186cade97489ff893a5a51)
I also experimented with some different techniques to clean the top. Lacquer thinner works the best but it's messy and can damage other parts of the car. Castrol Super clean is not as fast, but I think it will work almost as well.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9109.JPG&hash=03c416b9289043d3e75fbfe519a07b0b27c7df3b)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9110.JPG&hash=82e9692b1eed080ceebcb550ab1c8d4e3e432d6a)
And that gets us current with the project.
Incredible work and a fine education for us.
Mitchell,
Does your car have a name? When you stand back, before you shut the lights off, does it say, "Good night?" Restoring your car, as you have been doing with such precision and attention to detail must have some kind of mysterious anthropomorphizing effect on this beloved machine! Do tell. Thanks for sharing all you've done thus far. James
I know where the Green Machine is going if it ever needs a top!
Quote from: hornetball on February 05, 2021, 11:55:31 PM
I know where the Green Machine is going if it ever needs a top!
This top is an aftermarket top made by Electron Top. All of my research says that they make the best fitting top for the '71-'76 Eldorado and can say that with all of the markings that they provided on the top parts, it's almost a foolproof installation.
G'day Michael,
Firstly, wonderful, informative pictures.
I agree with that Electron make a really good top, as I found that when I replaced the top on a '71.
When working on these cars, and any car for that matter, I am always in awe of the parts that the designers, engineers and fabricators work that was performed to create these masterpieces, and that everything works so seamlessly together, putting up with years of abuse.
Your lovely pictures brought back many memories and reminded me that I will be doing the same thing in years to come.
If only the makers had put a bit more thought into rust-proofing, it would have made our lives a lot easier.
Bruce. >:D
Impressive work, thanks for taking us along on your restoration.
8)
Hi,
i am working for the last 4 years on my eldorado 1975. finished the engine, bodywork, and paint. and now i am starting with the interior. love to see the details of repairs you make, and like me, i am working on these details also. wished i knew the trick you did with the trunk motor before, i had the same problem with the wire and i fixed it by disasemble the motor , but it took me quit some time before i got get it together again. your trick with the brushes and the cut washer is golden
i am now working at the interior , covering it with leather, and in the spring its time for the top
i like how you show how to take appart the top. this is the first time i see it on the internet with this detail. now i know you can take it in 2 steps. thanks. i have the workplace manual for this top, and i did it 8years ago, but your way is much easier
Thanks for all your input
Quote from: denhuff on February 10, 2021, 04:18:37 PM
Hi,
i am working for the last 4 years on my eldorado 1975. finished the engine, bodywork, and paint. and now i am starting with the interior. love to see the details of repairs you make, and like me, i am working on these details also. wished i knew the trick you did with the trunk motor before, i had the same problem with the wire and i fixed it by disasemble the motor , but it took me quit some time before i got get it together again. your trick with the brushes and the cut washer is golden
i am now working at the interior , covering it with leather, and in the spring its time for the top
i like how you show how to take appart the top. this is the first time i see it on the internet with this detail. now i know you can take it in 2 steps. thanks. i have the workplace manual for this top, and i did it 8years ago, but your way is much easier
Thanks for all your input
I did
so much research on replacing the top. Virtually everyone said it was super hard and that it should not be attempted without much explanation on why. Replacing my top with a used one was not my ideal choice but I figured that it would be a great learning experience without having much money tied up if it all went south. In the end, I did not find the top replacement very hard, just time consuming as there are quite a few steps and pieces involved in the process. I'm thinking that I may make a different post in the Technical section specifically for replacing the top for people searching for top specific info.
Hello,
fantastic work! The first time and without wrinkles. Very well done
Best regards,
Nicolas
I think a dedicated top replacement post that can be stickied for posterity is a great idea. Sooner or later, all of us Eldo convertible owners will have to deal with this, and your how-to posts are fantastic.
Quote from: hornetball on June 18, 2021, 02:13:28 PM
I think a dedicated top replacement post that can be stickied for posterity is a great idea. Sooner or later, all of us Eldo convertible owners will have to deal with this, and your how-to posts are fantastic.
I can make a dedicated thread for the top with the info from this thread. It will be much easier to find from a search that way.
Picture test
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fjelloslug.com%2Fcaddy%2FIMG_9515.JPG&hash=38900482393aef4a75be8246e5706822553f4194)
Picture test 2
Picture test 2 worked for me. Where's my update? I'm getting withdrawal. ;)
Happy holidays.
Quote from: hornetball on November 27, 2021, 09:57:38 AM
Picture test 2 worked for me. Where's my update? I'm getting withdrawal. ;)
Happy holidays.
I have tons of stuff to post but the recent forum update has broken the IMG tags. I can attach the pics at the bottom but I usually annotate the pictures individually in the post. I may have to switch to one post, one pic until the forum is fixed.
Now that the picture issue on the forum has been worked out, it's time to get back to our regularly scheduled program.
Now it's time to turn my attention back to the upholstery. The sewing machine I have is not going to be up to the job so I got a "prosumer" machine with a servo motor on it. I could sew the fenders on a car with this thing.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9143.JPG)
I made some test pieces and I was able to do all kinds of fancy stiches.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9145.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9146.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9148.JPG)
I made a tuck and roll panel just to see if I could.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9150.JPG)
I also made a sample of what the actual upholstery style will be on the finished seats. For reference, here is an actual back seat in the style that I'm going for:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9151.JPG)
And here is my 3rd attempt:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9226.JPG)
I have decided to go with a '74 Fleetwood Talisman style for the rear seats so that means that I need to make a rear center console. The factory console is quite rare and it would not fit the Eldorado floor pan even if I could find one. This is what the rear console looks like:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/1974%20Talisman%20rear%20interior.jpg)
I lucked out and found an NOS release latch for the console doors a few months ago on ebay. That is really the most important thing to make the console look and function correctly.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_8013.JPG)
The rest of the console I can make from scratch.
I started out by putting the factory rear seat bottom back in just to get some measurements of where it sits in relation to the rear trim.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9200.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9199.JPG)
Next I stripped off all the old upholstery, foam, and springs off of the metal frame.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9203.JPG)
I cut the frame down so the console will fit in the middle. To keep the frames from collapsing from having the center cut out, I reproduced the corner supports and made an extra side support for both frames.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9206.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9208.JPG)
I then welded the new supports to the frames
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9209.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9211.JPG)
And then I test fit the modified frames with the console shell that I made. The console is nothing more than a wood box with some lids and the hard to find latch. In the end, I will 3D print the two lids to get the recesses correct that they need but I won't bother with that until the rear seats are upholstered.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9215.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9216.JPG)
Next up is modifying the foam to work with the frame modifications. First thing is to put the S springs back in. I shifted them both one notch over to the outside to center them up on the modified frames.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9225.JPG)
And here is how the frame fits on the old foam. You can see where the springs were at before I moved them. The black line on the left side of the foam is roughly where I will cut it.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9224.JPG)
I started out by cutting the foam in half just to make it easier to handle. The black line on the right is were I will cut it to size.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9227.JPG)
Next I cut it to size. There is a steel band that runs around inside the perimeter of the foam to help keep it from losing it's shape. I had cut it when I cut the foam in half.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9228.JPG)
I pushed the foam down the rod and held it back with a piece of wood and a vice grip. I covered everything with a wet towel and heated up the rod red hot with a torch so I could bend it.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9230.JPG)
The rear rod had some factory bends in it that I had to straighten out first so I could bend it over.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9232.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9233.JPG)
I bent them over so that when I connect the ends with a welded in rod, they will sink into a groove that I'll cut into the foam.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9234.JPG)
I did the same to the other side also.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9238.JPG)
And here is how the modified foam sits on the frame in the car. You can see the rod I cut that I will weld in soon.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9239.JPG)
I still need to weld in the piece of rod, shape the foam a bit in the inside corner and paint the frames. I have an order of upholstery supplies hopefully arriving this weekend so I hope to start actually sewing stuff very soon.
Now to make the actual upholstery. The first thing to make is the cushion top part of the upholstery. This piece is the part you sit on and is made with a layer of backing material (I'm using denim) the outer upholstery and foam in-between. I started out by taking the outer upholstery and sewing in pleats in it to give it the proper look. The pleats are sewn in randomly along the seam lines that will form the individual sections of the cushion.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9279.JPG)
Next I sewed the upholstery to the denim backer material. Everything is already laid out so it's just a matter of lining everything up and sewing it together.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9280.JPG)
I'm using what is called a "tuck and roll" style for the seams between the individual foam pieces. Rather than just lining up the marks on the backer and the upholstery and putting stiches on top, you fold the upholstery on the mark and slightly overlap the fold over the mark on the backer. Then you sew through the folded upholstery and the backer. This hides the stiches so if you look between the cushion pieces, you cannot see the stiches at all.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9284.JPG)
Once the middle is sewn, I ran a stich all the way around on three sides leaving the rear open.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9286.JPG)
Next I cut the foam. I'm using a medium density, 2" thick foam with a 1" thick Dacron layer on top. I cut the foam into strips just wide enough to be slightly compressed when I put it in the cushion.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9287.JPG)
I then cut the Dacron and glued to to the foam pieces after I shaped the foam slightly.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9288.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9289.JPG)
I then wrapped the foam pieces in "silk wrap". This makes it much easier to push the foam into the cushion and you can just leave it in the cushion when you are finished. It does not make any noise when you compress it and you cannot feel it though the upholstery.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9290.JPG)
Next up is to put the foam in the cushion. I started in the middle.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9291.JPG)
I then put the other three pieces in and sewed up the rear seam.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9292.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9294.JPG)
Next up was to sew the boxing around the sides. This is what closes up the sides of the cushion and on the bottom edge, there is a piece sewn on that lets you attach the cushion to the frame.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9300.JPG)
I added thick felt to the corners of the metal frame to give it some shape and to keep the metal frame from poking though the upholstery.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9298.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9299.JPG)
Next I put the cushion and the modified foam block on the frame. Everything is held together with hog rings.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9302.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9303.JPG)
And here is a test fit of it in the car with the center console.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9304.JPG)
Since the bottom cushion fit, next up was repair the seat back plate. Someone tried to remove the back seat without unbolting or knowing how it came out at all and really damaged the shell. It's made of chip board so repairing it was not terribly hard. Here is the damage:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9342.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9343.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9344.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9345.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9346.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9347.JPG)
I made metal reinforcing plates and fiberglassed and riveted the plates to the board. There are plates on both sides so the metal sandwiches the damaged areas.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9358.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9359.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9370.JPG)
Next I cut the seat back foam the same way I cut the seat bottom foam. It did not have any metal rods in it though so I did not have to deal with that.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9341.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9367.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9372.JPG)
I had already made the drivers side seat cushion also and I then test fitted the cut seat back foam.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9368.JPG)
Since the rear cushion frame was not designed for two individual cushions, I had to add something to attach the inside edge of the upholster to. I added a rod to the back of the frame and cut holes that would allow me to hog ring the edge of the upholstery to the frame.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9457.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9458.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9463.JPG)
I also notched out the top of the frame for the trim that I will make that goes between the two seat back cushions. Here is a teat fit of the rear frame.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9466.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9467.JPG)
I then built the first seat back cushion. It was built the same as the bottom so I did not take many pics. Here is the denim backer with it's layout marks.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9373.JPG)
And here is the finished cushion.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9456.JPG)
Next was to make the buttons for the cushions. I bought a button kit that worked surprisingly well.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9429.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9431.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9433.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9435.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9437.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9441.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9442.JPG)
Buttons, the fresh maker!
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9444.JPG)
The buttons are attached to the cushions using a giant needle pushed all the way though the cushion.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9475.JPG)
You tie them off on the rear so they can't pop off.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9476.JPG)
And then you have a button!
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9477.JPG)
I put the buttons in the seat back, put the seat back on the frame and then put it all in the car.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9478.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9482.JPG)
I then attached the console to the floor and put the other seat bottom in.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9486.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9487.JPG)
I felt like the buttons were too small so I bumped up to the next size and replaced them.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9524.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9529.JPG)
I also did not like the way I was retaining them on the rear of the cushion so I made a 3D printed retainer that allowed me to have much more control over the button tension.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9570.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9575.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9583.JPG)
With the new buttons out of the way, I finished up the passenger side seat back and installed it in the car.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9587.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9588.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9589.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9590.JPG)
Next up was to upholster the rear console. The starting point are the two pads next to the latch. I padded them and then made a pattern for the upholstery.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9834.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9831.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9835.JPG)
I sewed the corners and then stapled them onto the console itself.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9836.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9837.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9838.JPG)
Next was to pad and upholster the sides.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9841.JPG)
The upholstery has a welt at the top edge and then another piece that folds over the staples to give it a seamless look.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9842.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9843.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9844.JPG)
The other side was the same as the first.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9852.JPG)
To finish the front lower section, I 3D printed a cap that fit over the lower part of the console. The cap was padded and upholstered to match.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9853.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9857.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9858.JPG)
I drilled mounting holes in the console and then fit the lower panel in place.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9859.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9860.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9861.JPG)
Now it was time to cover the section just above the lower panel. You can see this area when you open and close the front storage compartment so it needs to be covered. I made a template and cut out a piece of material.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9862.JPG)
I then glued it in place and reinstalled the lower front cover.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9863.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9864.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9865.JPG)
Now I could start trimming the inside of the front storage compartment. I started with a carpeted plate for the floor.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9866.JPG)
Next I 3D printed a rear cover plate and then upholstered it to match.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9867.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9868.JPG)
I then made side plates to cover the rest of the staples and finish the compartment trim.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9879.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9880.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9881.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9882.JPG)
The rear compartment was a bit easier to trim since it was just a box. I did the same as before: made a carpet plate and then made upholstered sidewalls to trim everything out.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9869.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9870.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9871.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9875.JPG)
Further back on the console I had to make a cover plate to hold the hinges for the rear compartment door and to retain the rear upper trim. I gave it the same profile as the armrests since it's at the same height and then double upholster it so it would be squishy but still firm like the door panels. The plate itself is 3D printed and it's mounted to a wood frame.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9883.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9885.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9888.JPG)
The hinges are a wraparound style and I painted them to match the upholstery.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9889.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9890.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9891.JPG)
The rear compartment door is plywood with a 3D printed "bump" for the latch. The latch is also 3D printed but it's printed out of metal.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9893.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9892.JPG)
Next I made a pattern for the rear compartment lid upholstery.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9894.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9895.JPG)
I then cut out the upholstery and sewed the corners.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9896.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9897.JPG)
Next I padded the rear compartment lid and then stapled the upholstery on.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9898.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9899.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9900.JPG)
I then attached it to the console and made a cover plate to hide the staples.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9901.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9902.JPG)
Now came the hard part: the front curved compartment lid. It took several tries to get the shape right and to add all the features needed to mount, upholster, and attach the latch. Here is the final raw 3D printed part:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9905.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9906.JPG)
Here it is test fitted on the console with the 3D printed metal latch mounted.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9929.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9930.JPG)
Next I glued tack strips in the grooves on the inside so I could upholstery it.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9931.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9932.JPG)
And then I padded the door like the rear compartment door.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9933.JPG)
The upholstery for the front compartment door was a bit more complex than the rear door and had to be made out of several pieces sewn together. Here are the patterns.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9935.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9936.JPG)
With all the parts cut out, I sewed the pieces together, stapled them to the door, and then test fit the door.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9937.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9938.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9942.JPG)
Next was to made a trim plate for the inside of the door to hide the staples. I printed this part also so it would fit tight.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9945.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9948.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9949.JPG)
I then mounted the console back in the car so I could start work on the waterfall piece that goes between the upper parts of the rear seatbacks.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0145.JPG)
The factory style Talisman rear console had an upholstered waterfall that matched the seats.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/1974%20Talisman%20rear%20interior.jpg)
I wanted something different and I decided that a waterfall that matched the style of the upper side panels and upper door panels would look good in a convertible. I first printed the waterfall piece.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0256.JPG)
Next I printed the stainless trim out of metal and then threaded the mounting studs.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG-0246.jpg)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG-0247.jpg)
Then I powder coated the part so it looked more like polished stainless.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0253.JPG)
Then I added a "wood" accent stripe like the other parts have.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0255.JPG)
I then put the "wood" on the printed waterfall and bolted the metal trim on.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0257.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0258.JPG)
And finally I popped the waterfall in place.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0259.JPG)
The other thing I worked on was what I called "The quest for quiet". The exhaust on this car was a mixture of original parts and poorly made aftermarket parts. The resonator was replaced with a piece of pipe and the factory muffler was rusted out. It sounded about as bad as you would expect it would. I had already replaced the muffler and added a replacement resonator with little change so now it was time to actually see what was wrong. I started out by making a new rear section. This piece had been replaced before and did not fit very well. I have never done any exhaust work before so I broke out the Hobart and got some mandrel bent pieces and started gluing parts together. Here is the rear section that was on the car. It goes from the muffler, over the rear axle beam, around the gas tank, and over to the resonator.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9682.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9680.JPG)
I bought some mandrel bent parts and started to test fit everything
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9685.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9688.JPG)
After some adjustments, things seem to clear everything OK.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9693.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9689.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9691.JPG)
I don't claim to be a welder but I was able to stick things together relatively OK.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9727.JPG)
With the rear section all welded up, it fit well enough to not hit anything so I bolted it in.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9728.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9730.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9732.JPG)
After all of that, when I started it back up, it did not seem to make much of a difference. I was a bit annoyed but the section I replaced was crap and needed to go anyway so at least it was not wasted effort.
Forward of the muffler was a little jog in the mid pipe that was kind of crusty looking and not in the best shape. I found an aftermarket pre-bent part that was for a ~2000 Explorer with the right diameter and offset. I cut off what I needed and replaced the jog.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9670.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9671.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9674.JPG)
What I did not take a pic of but should have is what I found inside the jog. Back in the '70s when this car was made, Cadillac was using double walled exhaust pipes. There was no gap between the walls, the double walled construction was just there to make it thicker and a bit more quiet possibly? Inside the jog that I cut off, there was a big bubble sticking up in the bend where the inner wall puckered when it was bent. I really did not think much of it when I cut it off since I was removing it. A few days later when I was looking around to see if I could find something obvious for the persistent huge exhaust leak, I noticed what looked like a long dent on side the mid pipe. There was no way for anything to hit it there so I just cut it off to see what was going on. This is what I found inside:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9751.JPG)
That bulge was about an inch tall and was about 18" long. I did cut the pipe in half where the bulge was at and the metal was clean with zero rust at all so it had been that way most likely from the factory. I replaced the section of pipe and added an O2 bung in case I decide to add fuel injection.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9758.JPG)
With those obvious flaws fixed, I fired it up and...
No change at all in the sound. >:(
There was not much left of the factory exhaust at all and I spent a considerable amount of time fixing even the most tiny of pinhole leaks. I pulled the manifolds off and ground the mating surfaces for the heads to a perfect finish. I installed new graphite crush gaskets between the manifolds and the heads. I pressurized the system and checked and double checked every joint and there were zero leaks. I was left with only one other option: cut the y-pipe out. There is zero possibility to get the y-pipe out of the car in one piece. Even the factory service manual says to just cut it and replace it with a new one. There are aftermarket units but they don't look that great (small pipes with crush bends) and it looked a bit more complex than the other part that I had pieced together. Still though, I had no choice if I wanted to solve the issue so out came the angle grinder. I made sure to make marks so I could put it back together once it was out and I stated cutting.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9921.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9922.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9923.JPG)
Once it was out, this is what I found in the drivers side down pipe:
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9928.JPG)
There was no indication of a problem on the outside of the pipe but almost half of the pipe was blocked up with that jagged bulge inside that pipe. It had never been apart before and all indication showed that it had been that was from the factory.
I actually piled all the part in the trunk of my other car and took it all to the closet Summit Racing store to get more mandrel bent parts. I mocked up the y-pipe on stands and started fitting parts.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9926.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9925.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9924.JPG)
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_9927.JPG)
And here is the finished Y-pipe. The only parts of the old exhaust system I reused were the bell flanges and the brackets to connect it to the manifolds.
(https://jelloslug.com/caddy/IMG_0012.JPG)
The end result was positive. The noise I was trying to fix is now gone but the exhaust is now a bit leaky in places. I'm kind of tired of working on it right now though so I will fix that part in the near future. I have band clamps on it in places and I really need to get some weld on flanges or V-band clamps that will do a better job of sealing. Also, the little two to one Y that I'm using seems to be acting like a resonator a bit so I need to either wrap it or replace it with something without a chamber to quiet it down a bit more.
And that's it for right now. I'm doing more upholstery work at the moment and I'll have plenty more to post soon enough.
G'day Mitchel,
Thanks for all those lovely pictures, and especially for the ones showing the chipboard backing for the back of the rear seat. This was the first time I had seen a virtually undamaged part.
If you thought yours was bad, mine was horrendous, but having a second one from a '71, allowed me to make up one out of two, then more modifications to fit my shoulder safety belts.
Bruce. >:D
The interior and exhaust work is just amazing, you are a craftsmans craftsman. That will be some car when complete.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on December 13, 2021, 05:59:47 PM
G'day Mitchel,
Thanks for all those lovely pictures, and especially for the ones showing the chipboard backing for the back of the rear seat. This was the first time I had seen a virtually undamaged part.
If you thought yours was bad, mine was horrendous, but having a second one from a '71, allowed me to make up one out of two, then more modifications to fit my shoulder safety belts.
Bruce. >:D
If you ever need more pictures of it, just let me know. I have a ton.
Mitchell,
It's extraordinary that you're uncovering design and manufacturing errors that occurred nearly half a century ago! Loving your rear seat treatment, and very much looking forward to seeing the entire seating arrangement once you've completed it Also, in your narrative, you mention "setting aside" frustrating challenges, like that exhaust system, and leaving it for another day--- a great approach! I owned a '67 Eldorado back in the early 70 (through 85)... It was a durable daily driver, and my commute was 90 a day. One day both exhaust pipes (having rusted through) fell, got caught up in the highway surface and ripped off the entire system.... did not make it to work that day. Keep us in the loop with your wonderful narratives and pictures--- James
I have followed this thread from the start and continue to be amazed.
This man is designing and building his own car and I can't draw stick figures properly. :P
Yes, an example of a real artist as opposed to those of us that can't even paint by the numbers.
Quote from: 35-709 on December 16, 2021, 09:00:34 PM
Yes, an example of a real artist as opposed to those of us that can't even paint by the numbers.
Says a guy that completely redoes an 85 year old car to make it a daily driver of sorts. 8)
:) Yeah, well, I had some help too. Mitchell appears to be doing everything himself and there can be no argument that his work is over the top.