I have only one badly worn key that works in the ignition but is hard to turn and remove from trunk. The original looking Briggs Stratton GM Corp still has the punchout code piece (xxxx). Is there an online source for new keys that can be cut using the code? Thanks
Bill,
With that code you can go to any reputable locksmith shop and have a key made for a few bucks. They may even have some of the old style key blanks in stock.
That is a 6 cut key, meaning that
with a hand held cutter like we used at the dealership, it takes six preset cuts to knock out a new key for you.
That code shouldn't be advertised as it's the key to your car. I would remove it from your post as soon as you can.
http://zork.info/Jessers (http://zork.info/Jessers)
Does anyone know what the original key for a 1947 Cadillac looks like. I found one on ebay that says it is original for 1947:
http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=383136755372&category=140706&pm=1&ds=0&t=1581138336862
However, my current key looks like this one except it says GM Corp on one side and Briggs Stratton on the other . It is stamped with the 4 digit key code.
I just want to get spare keys as I only have one badly worn key and don't want to just duplicate it as I would then have an exact duplicate of another badly worn key. It operates the ignition but can be removed while still in the "ON" position. It will unlock the trunk but is very hard to remove. I think the trunk key was a different key. Don't know the history of locks being changed or if locks are worn like the key. So long as I'm getting new keys, I thought I should try to get authentic blanks
Does anyone have knowledge of proper key(s) look and which ones fit where. I contacted Jessers at Glen's suggestion but am also looking for first hand knowledge from gurus on the forum.
Thanks, Bill
Quote from: bill_boos on February 08, 2020, 03:53:12 PM
However, my current key ... says GM Corp on one side and Briggs Stratton on the other . It is stamped with the 4 digit key code.
Bill, you've partially answered your own question as to what your original keys look like. :)
There are actually two keys for your car: one for the ignition switch and doors, the other for the trunk and glove box. Each key has a different shaped head. See the three attached photos. The first two photos are the original keys for my '42, which would be similar, if not identical, to your '47. The key on the left in the first two photos has an octagonal shaped head and works the ignition and door locks. The key on the right in the first two photos with the somewhat round-shaped head is for the trunk and glove box locks. You can see, for the most part, how the keys are worded.
The bottom photo is the closest match to the original keys I've been able to find. The other side of each key in the bottom photo that you don't see mirrors the opposite key (GM on one side, Briggs and Stratton on the other).
Hope you find this helpful!
Jeff
Thanks, Jeff. Here is the front and back of my single key
09-Feb-2019, 6:09 PM EST: edited by Hansen to alter photo of key with exposed key code - code removed.
The back of your key is interesting, Bill. Those initials could be most anything from the original owner's initials to ???
Jeff
Bill,
I took the liberty of doctoring the photo of your key with the exposed code. I removed the code from the photo and inserted the updated photo.
Jeff
Owner's initials is what I thought, too. I Googled RPD General Motors and found Rochester Products Division of General Motors, an early (1929) maker of ignition systems, locks and keys and carburetors among other things. I may have an original 73 year old key -- no wonder it is worn!
I guess I don't understand this worry about key codes. This started for me when GM started whiting out the key codes on the invoices. Turning a simple job for a locksmith to a hard job. In the world of thieves if you are going to steal a 47 Cadillac the first thing you would worry about is getting the key code, going to a rare locksmith who can translate the key code to the six cuts required and then finding the car that the key goes with. Another choice would be find the car, get the serial number and then send $50 dollars to GM to get the invoice with the key code. How about just hot wire the car in less time than it takes to type out this. For a high end thief use a flat bed truck or a trailer.
Quote from: Brad Ipsen CLC #737 on February 08, 2020, 08:10:12 PM
How about just hot wire the car in less time than it takes to type out this.......
;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Correct!
Must be the over 50-70 year old crowd that's into stuff like this?
Bobby
Rochester Products manufactured keys for GM for many years. When they stopped making the keys, I think in the '60s sometime, barrels of the old brass chrome plated keys were scrapped
If you want the original type key(s) contact Mulhaupts in Lafayette, IN. When you call,mention my name and that I was a good friend to Harold and know the current owner, Mike Gibson well. They should be able to provide you with keys that work in the original Briggs & Stratton styles as long as you have the correct codes. They are a business that has passed the century mark. (Ask, and if they have run out of original blanks they will tell you.) They will also treat you like a customer that walks in the door. In other words, they will probably be cheaper than a "Hobby" supplier.
Also, the fact that you can take the key out when the car is running isn't unusual. As I recall, that's the way it should work. If you don't have the code for the trunk/glove box, you will have to take the glove box lock off and send it to a locksmith. There is not going to be a magic place on the Web to do this. Mulhaupts can cut a key by using the lock but it will be more expensive to get done. Do not try to use "another" glove box lock as then the trunk lock will still be different. Good luck.
For the present, I would leave the trunk unlocked. That heavy lid isn't going anywhere. The fact that your ignition key "works" in it is pure dumb luck. Keep using it and you may mess up the ignition on the car. I would suggest taking care of this in two steps. First, call a locksmith with the codes and have them mail you the ignition key. Then you can see about doing the other one.
Barry, thanks for the thorough reply. I'll email Mulhaupts to see if they have the right key blanks. I ordered a set on ebay that are made by Strattec, a successor to Briggs and Stratton and licensed by GM.
They only had one set and I need multiple. I have a local locksmith who can cut the ignition key to the code on my worn original. I'll pull the glove box lock -- maybe there is a code stamped on the lock. I want to be able to lock the trunk to keep the loose handle vertical and avoid a rattle. Perhaps there is a bolt I can tighten. Same problem with door handles and detent not holding door open. These are minor problems with an otherwise solid car.
Learned more about keys over the past week than I ever needed to know!
You might consider taking your trunk lock out and having a key made for it.. I've had keys made for the glove box and they did not work in the trunk...
Where can i get a new key for the trunk, is visiting a local locksmith near me (http://www.gaithersburglocksmiths.com/) a good deal or dealer is the suitable option?
Jeff failed to mention that the 1941 (and possibly 1938-40) 60S had a completely different head on them. Jeff got mine when he bought my car.
As I recall, only the ignition key had the Oak Leaf head. I paid $75 for a new one of those
Barry, Would Mulhaupts possibly have the oak leaf blank key for the 41-60S? I have only seen pictures, never found one for the 41-60S I had a few years ago, and neither did Bill Podany, the previous owner of my former car. If Mulhaupts would have any blanks, I'm sure many 41-60S owners would love to get a correct key.
Yes, the leaf-shaped key is for the ignition and doors only.
According to my 1942 Master Parts Book the key was used on:
- 1938 60S
- 1939 60S
- 1940 52, 60S, 62, and 72
- 1941 60S
Jeff