Reattaching the wearherstripping on the beltmoulding

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello ,
i am replacing my weatherstripping on the rear windows inside and outside . I have removed all the staples that held the original weatherstripping on .that leaves me with staple holes about .05 in diameter . i have made templates out of see Thu plastic to transfer the existing holes into the new weatherstrip .  I am not sure about screwing or riveting the new stuff back on . I would perfer not to add a bunch of new holes or even open up the one that are in the existing parts .  Has anybody done this before . And what is the best way to refasten these parts ? Should  any type of glue be used ?  I have added a photo .
Thanks in Advance ,
       Bill

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Bill,

The outside chrome on my ’66 has a flap squeegee type of wipe. I held the backing in place with clamps and used 1/8’ aluminum rivets drilling through the chrome and back edge of the wipe. A dab of black paint insures it won’t be seen

Ralph.

[Bill Balkie 24172]

Hello Ralph,
     Did you open up the existing holes or drill new ones . A simple pop rivet might be the easiest way and aluminum  pop rivet is very forgiving ,if for some reason you have to remove the rivet .  Ralph , as you know these molding both inside and outside are very expensive to replace . I have got to come up with a solid plan  before i take a hand drill to these parts .Even if i use a number 2  stainlees screw  i will have to open the existing holes and try to match drill the parts off of my template . The screws can not be more then a 1/4 inch long . If they are it might cause interference .  I also found a plastic push type rivet that might do the job in the McMaster carr catalog  and the nice thing is they are already black .The part number is 91020a128. I might not be as strong as an aluminum rivet but i might cut down on distortion .  I will have to experiment over the weekend . I will let you know the results .

    Bill

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

In the past, I have replicated the staples and carefully reapplied them by carefully inserting the staple points in the holes, and bending them over with a specially made clamp.

Bruce.

[Ralph Messina CLC 4937]

Bill,

I confused the inner and outer wiper methods and may have given you bad information writing from memory. I used the rivet method connecting the inside wipe to the upper wood panels of my doors. The panel’s metal edge has the staple holes but the metal backing of the wiper is continuous. It’s is nearly impossible to pass a staple unless you make a template of the existing staple holes and transfer and drill holes in the wiper baking. In addition some sort of fixture would be needed to bend the ends of the staples just as Bruce said.

The squeegee type wiper on my outer chrome belt molding has pre-punched slots that align with tabs provided on the wiper.

I had to clear this up, before someone took my incorrect advice and damaged their parts…….I should not rely on memory as much as I use to.

Ralph