LED tail lights for my 1958 Eldorado Biarritz

[Blade]

So Blade, what is the mathematical calculation that led you to a conclude that your car is 98% original?

Numbers matching is a billsh!t term as well. It's either the original item in or on the car or it isn't. Do you have all the original cast iron & aluminum main items that comprise your engine and transmission? Numbers matching is a bs game for chevy and ford owners to play with their corvettes, camaros and mustangs.

If I go by weight of original vs non-original items in my car, I could claim that my car is 99.5% original (or more, but I haven't done the calculation) because the paint weighs next to nothing compared to the sheet metal, and the pistons & camshaft similarly do not weigh much as compared to the weight of the engine and transmission. 

So Mike woke up with the wrong foot or his car didn't start this morning?

My estimate is based on that I can count the number of items missing from the car on two hands; aside from one hubcap and the original jack all of these are small parts such as one cigarette lighter (out of four), the choke heater hose, the Cadillac crest from the hood, dome light cover, one door lock knob ... etc. And  no, I don't include items that are regularely replaced such as spark plugs, oil filters, air filters, light bulbs ... etc which were obviously replaced. Although the car was barely used since the 70s, I even assume the headlights and probably most of the bulbs are at least from the 70s - believe me they look like it too! Also the fact that it took me 45 minutes to take the four tail lights out and apart (three small screws per light total, originally estimated 5 minute job) also suggested that they weren't taken out and apart for decades, yet three out of four bulbs are still working! The rubber seals were deterriorated and fused with the palstic bullet lights (see pic). But I'll try to track down the numbers stamped on the bulbs and headlights. By original, as most people, I mean the parts that do not wear off and requires normal regular replacements. And yes, at this point even the paint and the spare wheel are the factory original (the paint will be gone due to fading).

So there ... explained!

[cadillacmike68]

So Mike woke up with the wrong foot or his car didn't start this morning?

My estimate is based on that I can count the number of items missing from the car on two hands; aside from one hubcap and the original jack all of these are small parts such as one cigarette lighter (out of four), the choke heater hose, the Cadillac crest from the hood, dome light cover, one door lock knob ... etc. And  no, I don't include items that are regularely replaced such as spark plugs, oil filters, air filters, light bulbs ... etc which were obviously replaced. Although the car was barely used since the 70s, I even assume the headlights and probably most of the bulbs are at least from the 70s - believe me they look like it too! Also the fact that it took me 45 minutes to take the four tail lights out and apart (three small screws per light total, originally estimated 5 minute job) also suggested that they weren't taken out and apart for decades, yet three out of four bulbs are still working! The rubber seals were deterriorated and fused with the palstic bullet lights (see pic). But I'll try to track down the numbers stamped on the bulbs and headlights. By original, as most people, I mean the parts that do not wear off and requires normal regular replacements. And yes, at this point even the paint and the spare wheel are the factory original (the paint will be gone due to fading).

So there ... explained!

Not quite, the engine, is it the original cast iron or just "numbers matching"?

When you wrote numbers matching my Bullsh!t meter spun so far out of control, the helo pilots here wanted to use it as an auxiliary engine on a UH60 

Also, just because something is not missing doesn't mean it was never replaced. You have 54 year radiator and heater hoses in your 1959? Do you ever drive it? your battery is 54 years old as well? We won't get into the tires. Oh oh the bullsh!t meter is starting to spin up again.....

Otherwise fair enough.

BTW I have no idea if my cars start, being 7,000 miles away from them - which is why I'm always getting up from the wrong side of the bed!   

Wifey gave me a scare last month when she said the 1968 wouldn't start. That sent the OhSh!t meter into overdrive. 

[R Schroeder]

Wow , Mike, lighten up. You run around at this site nit picking what people post on here.
I got what he was saying. He wants to keep the car looking original. I don't think he meant it is original.
The only original Cadillacs out there were plucked from the assembly line with less than one mile on them and never driven again. Otherwise they are all similar to what they looked like from new. I doubt if anyone has an original car .
If you want to nit pick what people say, I could nit pick about you being 7000 miles from home.
Since the U.S. is only about 3300 miles long, you must be sitting out in the ocean someplace.
See, I knew what you meant. Your along way from home, but you didn't give an accurate quote.
Roy

[Blade]

Thanks Roy, yes I was pretty much going to say the same thing, this is a pointless argument, most people knew what I was talking about. Again, by original we mean it has the original parts put on at the assembly line, obviously do not including items replaced by normal wear - as I mentioned before - so the tires and the battery are not the original, however yes, the radiator is. This car has less than 80,000 miles in at and the last lubing service was done on it in 1978, at 74,900 miles (see pics). Now you could start picking on maybe someone just wrote those numbers there if you want to but I won't. Too many things pointing to the same story, I could start a whole list, but already mentioned and showed a picture of the tail lights. Another fact is that one of the only two documents found in the glove compartment were 1) a reacall letter for the pitman arm the letter is dated June 12, 1978 (and yes, this is an 'original' document sent from GM) and 2) the other was the recent tire replacements so the car can be driven when sold.

Then like you said, we could pick on Mike as much as well, such as I did not say his car didn't start for him, I only said his car didn't start that morning. Could have been his wife or someone else trying. See? Completely pointless childish arguments.... I knew what he meant when he said he is 7000 miles away. To me, enough said.

With that I'm back to working on my Cad ...

[cadillacmike68]

Wow , Mike, lighten up. You run around at this site nit picking what people post on here.
I got what he was saying. He wants to keep the car looking original. I don't think he meant it is original.
The only original Cadillacs out there were plucked from the assembly line with less than one mile on them and never driven again. Otherwise they are all similar to what they looked like from new. I doubt if anyone has an original car .
If you want to nit pick what people say, I could nit pick about you being 7000 miles from home.
Since the U.S. is only about 3300 miles long, you must be sitting out in the ocean someplace.
See, I knew what you meant. Your along way from home, but you didn't give an accurate quote.
Roy

Well, If I was in Hawaii I would be approx 6,000 miles away, but I'm in the other direction. 7,314 miles east of home to be precise. I'm in the mid-east desert if you really want to know.

As for nit picking, I still say 'numbers matching' is a bs term for chevy and ford owners to play with.  Blade's car is most likely very nice, most likely nicer than mine. And it's more original too, especially since mine has been re-painted.

As an information systems professional and professional logistician, I have had to be very precise in my work over the past 30 years in all areas. You can't tell a program to add 10% to an account when it is supposed to be 9.9%, do that enough and well, you get the picture. Likewise, if we are off (say on the short end) by 2 gallons per day per vehicle with 20,000 vehicles, that's a 40,000 gallons per day shortfall, which will have immediate impacts on the battlefield.

So I get a bit too precise for some,, to quote Steve Windwood of traffic: "don't worry too, it'll happen to you" , "We were children once playing with toys"... 

Anyone remember that song?



Bill, did your lights arrive?  I still have a huge stash of old Guide lamps , everything except the friggin 97A amber (painted not natural amber) used for the first time in 1968s in the front side markers. Impossible to get, so i got some orange paint and painted a bunch of 97s. they work fine.

But they are not original   

[R Schroeder]

Your a luckier man than me.

When I was in Nam , back in 68, we didn't get to go on any computers , or cell phones.
Lucky to get the mail every week......ha

[Blade]

Bill,

Any news on the new lights? I am very curious about your opinion about them and if you have them already could you post some pics perhaps please?

I also talked to my brother about the LED lights and he suggested that he will custom build some for me, he is an engineer and works a lot with LEDs designing circuit boards. Right now I am considering this as the best option and most likely will go with that, he can convert all the lights (except headlights of course). If you don't like your new ones maybe I can also ask him if he is up for some '58 custom lights, he said he can build any size and shape.

Blade~

[Bill Caddyshack]

Been researching this for a while. My original intent was to find some brighter bulbs. The LED bulbs have problems. Don't see any as bright as the incandescents. There are other questions, but I do not see using them for our old cars.


The 1034 and 1157 Bulbs put out 32 candle power on the high filament (blinker and brake) and 3 candle power on the low (tali light).


I have turned up a lamp that will fit the standard bulb socket the 1157 and 1034 fit. OEM Honda Car bulb, not motorcycle, not aftermarket MUST BE OEM 34906-SLO-A01. Will put our 43 candlepower and 3.5 candlepower.

I can't guarantee it, but the heat output should be safe for your lens. Not melting hot like halogen, which I do not recommend.

Also check your wiring for voltage drop at the socket. This is very important. Intensity drops exponentially with voltage drop. You may need to run new wiring, get clean grounds. and be sure your brake light switch is making full contact, passing full voltage.

Spray the inside of your reflectors with matte sliver or white and you will get the brightest output possible.

Don't waste your time or money on LED with present technology.

I'll take some pictures in the next few days that will show the difference. I also will run some temperature differences.

[Blade]

Thanks Bill, I was just going to buy some new tail light bulbs today, yesterday I got the backup lights apart for the first time (wouldn't suprise me if the bulbs were still the factory  ). Both of them are rusted but I can see some numbers on one of them and it seems like it is 1003. Both are burnt out and the glasses are completely black so I can't seen any writing on there

I am also opting for regular bulbs instead of the LEDs as I just like the dimming as they turn on and off, I think they just give that old look to an old car. Here is a good comparision video I found on Youtube, I think the LEDs look just too modern:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKyE6zsGCPc

I have seen some people using aluminium foil in the back as reflectors, they might also work temporarily, I still have some rust on mine so for now I might go for that - till I get to the restoration of the lights.

So today I'll check out these Honda bulbs you were suggesting, sounds like they are are good substitution for the tail lights.

Thanks Bill and please post some pictures if you got yours replaced.

[Bill Caddyshack]

Thanks Bill, I was just going to buy some new tail light bulbs today, yesterday I got the backup lights apart for the first time (wouldn't suprise me if the bulbs were still the factory  ). Both of them are rusted but I can see some numbers on one of them and it seems like it is 1003. Both are burnt out and the glasses are completely black so I can't seen any writing on there

I am also opting for regular bulbs instead of the LEDs as I just like the dimming as they turn on and off, I think they just give that old look to an old car. Here is a good comparision video I found on Youtube, I think the LEDs look just too modern:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wKyE6zsGCPc

I have seen some people using aluminium foil in the back as reflectors, they might also work temporarily, I still have some rust on mine so for now I might go for that - till I get to the restoration of the lights.

So today I'll check out these Honda bulbs you were suggesting, sounds like they are are good substitution for the tail lights.

Thanks Bill and please post some pictures if you got yours replaced.

I will post some pics soon. My car is going in for upholstery, soon.


I'd put some dielectric grease on the new bulbs. Will stop ant future rust. Looks awfull, works great. And be sure to check your voltage at the tail light. Bead blasting works great to remove rust and give your reflectors a great matte finish. This is what you want for the best light output.

[Blade]

OK ... so I went to a local car parts store and we looked up that light bulb, it was the modern style full glass no brass bottom it would not work in my sockets. You sure that's the correct part number? We were able to identify that those bulbs go into the 1998 Honda Civic DX but they have different sockets.

Picture shows one of my lights taken apart, shows the socket for the 1034.

[J. Gomez]

Folks,

I’ve found the following article by SlantSixDan (converted to a pdf file) at the Slant Six Forum on the main topic discuss here. Although it is primarily covering Mopar models the details and resolutions could easily apply to other brands in general including our Caddies. 

The author mentions not to use a Chrome/Mylar reflector tape, however I’ve found on several other forums that folks have use the Chrome/Mylar tape on the reflectors and swear they had notice an increase in the brightness.

Just providing additional feedback/data on the main topic, enjoy it.

[tozerco]

Read this BEFORE you leap:

http://www.ebay.com/gds/LED-Lighting-Myths-Facts-and-Common-Problems/10000000004575147/g.html


Regards,

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Here is a view of my former (sniff sniff  ) '59 with just the parking lamps on - under bright ambient lighting.

I hand polished all four bullet lenses, cleaned out dust/dirt accumulations within and reflectors and replaced all four bulbs. No LEDs or other such nonsense here. Just good 'ole pure stock lighting as the Cadillac Gods intended.  Again- this photo shows the bullets with only the parking lamps illuminated - NOT the brake lamps which are brighter and NOT in the dark.

Bright enough?   

[Jeff Wilk]

Eric, looks awesome.......what did you use to hand polish the lenses?  I'd love to get the dull oxidation off my bullet lenses and never knew what to try.  I even have 8 NOS ones that could use a freshening up and don't want to ruin them.

Jeff

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

Thanks Jeff.

I've always obtained excellent results with these Meguiars products- first with the Diamond Cut Compound followed by the Deep Crystal Polish finished off with a coat of wax.

Unless you're using high speed buffer or highly abrasive compounds, it's near impossible to cause any damage by hand. 

[Eric DeVirgilis CLC# 8621]

When I got the car, the taillamp bezels were all coated with greenish film from the car having been sitting in a barn for 20+ years. I dipped them in an acid what we ordinarily use to clean wire wheel covers and used a toothbrush to clean the grime between the "fingers", then rinsed them with water. Then an application of Meguiars All Metal Polish and they came out beautifully.