Recent posts

#1

Restoration Corner / Re: Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

Last post by dogbergs - Today at 02:13:04 AM

Are R.T.R.W and Steele Rubber products selling the same products?
From same manufacturer?

/ Johan

#2

For Sale - Cars / 1937 Series 75 Fleetwood, $6,0...

Last post by kaptengoose - Today at 02:00:58 AM

Looking for some guidance friends. I have this 1937 Series 75 with the 3rd window. As you can see from the pictures it needs some work (to put it lightly) - and my father and I simply don't have the capacity to take it on - so we would love for it to go to someone who can use it.

90% certain that all the pieces are there but we do not have an engine nor a transmission. Happy to talk through it and am willing to trade for something that is close to running.

Any advice would be much appreciated. Please let me know! All the best.

#3

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1976 CdV $13,500 17,000...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 01:58:51 AM

Here it is.   The inlay is curling up across the top, and the end.

Bruce.

#4

General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver

Last post by PHIL WHYTE CLC 14192 - Today at 01:56:24 AM

This was not necessary in 1951 with the self adjusting anchors, according to the supplemental manual.

The 1951 brakes are not self adjusting. If you do the minor adjustment you still use a feeler gauge through the slots. If the shoes are not correctly adjusted you could bleed them correctly and still have the problem you're encountering. I have a 1951 shop manual somewhere and if I find it I'll scan the brake pages and post them here. If you don't follow the manual your brakes will be useless.

#5

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1956 dealer installed AC s...

Last post by Cadman-iac - Yesterday at 11:26:38 PM

Here is what was advertised by the vendor. Look them up and enquire as to whether they still offer this item. Clay/Lexi

 From looking at this, I can make my own without any problem. Like all of these shields, baffles, and splash guards, the hardest part is putting the damned staples in.
 Thanks for the information though, I'll give them a look at least.

 Rick

#6

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1976 CdV $13,500 17,000...

Last post by Cadman-iac - Yesterday at 11:21:39 PM

These were notorious for having the paint bubble up just below the vinyl top on both quarter panels when they were only a year old.  The color is a love it or hate it shade.   

 I had a 75 Coupe Deville and it had been in Hawaii for years before someone shipped it back here. I  got it for a hundred dollars and drove the wheels off it. But it was rotten all over underneath the vinyl top. If you touched it it sounded like you had just put your foot in a bowl of cornflakes. But man what a nice riding car!!
 
 I can't get the pictures to expand on my phone, but it's partly because I don't do Farcebook I think. I couldn't see the issues you were talking about with the dash.

 I was wondering about the spare tire position. I thought they were supposed to sit up against the hump at an angle so it doesn't take up too much floor space in the trunk.

 But from what I can see, it's a really beautiful car. I really like that color combo.
 But like you said James, there must be something wrong if it hadn't sold in a year. The price seems reasonable to me if it's as nice as the pictures portray it.

 Rick

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to restore 55 Series 7...

Last post by Lexi - Yesterday at 10:41:35 PM

Perhaps your research can provide an answer as to how Cadillac applied that finish onto your rear dash. I would like to know how it was done originally. Clay/Lexi

#8

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1976 CdV $13,500 17,000...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Yesterday at 09:48:03 PM

With the condition of the woodgrain fascia on the passenger side of the dash, and the broken seat belt clip on the drivers' seat, I would be thinking it has rolled over on the odometer to 117,000 miles.

Bruce.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: How to restore 55 Series 7...

Last post by Lexi - Yesterday at 09:25:15 PM

Terry you are welcome. If cost isn't a reasonable concern, don't write off a graphic arts printer place. I had to build an electric light marquee for my Haunted attraction and planned on using a large sign that had florescent tubes inside and about 50 colored perimeter lights. I had a jpeg file of the Haunt's name & logo, which I took to the printer and told him what size to print. He did, and on that material I described in my earlier post. It was some sort of plastic, which also allowed my image to be back lit. It turned out looking like one huge Kodachrome slide, except it was thinner as I recall. They have other media options. Think the same stuff was used in the old video rental stores for the new release posters that were mounted in an electric back lit frame. It looked great. Just cut and trim to fit. Think it had an adhesive backing. The key issue is to have a detailed, very large size file of the image you want printed. Most internet photos are far from suitable. Too low a file size. Image size and quality are critical. The larger the better, include a scale so the printer has a size reference so the star like repeating pattern comes out in the correct aspect ratio. They may have to panoramic print them to fill the area on the dash required, but I suspect they work files as required via Photoshop or a similar program. Adhesive choice is another key factor as well as surface preparation. You will have to be guided by them. If you can't locate one, NOS or someone reproducing them, I would think your options are quite limited. There is a CLC Forum member/user who does specialty printing such as sign boards for our cars at shows. Perhaps he might have some suggestions? Can't think of his name, but if he reads this perhaps he can chime in. Clay/Lexi

#10

General Discussion / Re: 1968 DeVille Convertible r...

Last post by D. Mailan - Yesterday at 08:49:10 PM

Fantastic restoration!! Looks like new!! Amazing color choice as well

Derick