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#11
I'd think a compression test would only help if it is stuck at that time. If it isn't I'd think it would show the same as the other cylinders.
I am a minimally evasive kind of guy. I would do what you're doing with an additive. Everyone has their own magic potion, but I use Marvel's.
For what it's worth, people use Marvel's in airplane engines too. It cleans the guides and prevents morning sickness.
#12
Restoration Corner / Re: Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis
Last post by Clewisiii - Today at 08:40:58 AM
When it is time to put the body back on the frame. I am going to go to my Fraternity House (which is only a 5 minute drive from my house) and offer them $400-500 to have about ten guys stop by my house to carry and set the body on the frame.
#13
The seller sent me these pictures....Also a video of a walk around of the car....interior is what you would expect in the video....

Body # not on the survivors list...Alpine White body, Blue & White Leather, Black top...

Mike
#14
General Discussion / Re: Antifreeze lifespan
Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 08:21:48 AM
  Strips ordered, should see them hopefully by Monday at the latest. I didn't go with the fleetgard ones after all  as they didn't make it clear that they check the PH level anywhere in their description.
 I chose one from Robinair as their description specifically states that it tests the PH level in addition to the glycol percentage and the freeze point. (Not that the freeze point is all that important in southern Arizona).
 
 Rick
#15
General Discussion / Re: 1951 Caddy daily driver
Last post by Cadman-iac - Today at 08:07:53 AM
 I hope that works for you. I wouldn't want to risk damaging the headliner either, especially not knowing exactly where they spliced the ground wiring on that model. It could be just one location, or there may be multiple ones. Without striping the harness it's a crap shoot.
 Good luck.

 Rick
#16
  I'm not familiar with the system in your car, but have dealt with other newer ones. From your description of symptoms, I would suspect that your ignition switch may be at fault.
 Have you checked for voltage from the switch during cranking?

 Rick
#17
Hi All,

I've got a suspect sticking inlet valve on my '55 Eldorado. Standard 331 with Dual Rochesters.

Idle, mixture and timing are all OK. Plugs and HT leads are new.

What started out as a "lazy" valve occasionally missing has now backfired through the carb a couple of times so seems to be getting worse.

I've just added some petrol additive to see if that helps but assuming the worse, what's the best course of action? I was thinking doing a compression test to identify the cylinder but not sure how to proceed after that. Everything else seems absolutely fine.

Best regards,

Andy


 




 
#18
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1941 75 Series $20,000 ...
Last post by Bryan J Moran - Today at 07:15:33 AM
Spoke with the owner-seller. This is a 3 speed car and he has updated to 8v.  He will send an appraisal and information if I send him my email. 

He is mostly into brass era cars, is 82 or so years old and just had surgery so isn't really mobile. 
#19
Hi Clay,

I finally had an excuse to take the dashpad out - all fitted perfectly - thanks again for your help. Photos attached if anyone needs them for future reference.

Andy
#20
Last week, I got a 1956 Cadillac transmission to overhaul as there was no second and 4th gear. A clear case for the front unit coupling leaking was my first thinking. Then, I began the disassembly.
Oh boy! I never saw such a black oil which was smelling real bad.

Black oil.jpg

Most hubs from the toruses had deep markings;

Deep scratches.jpg

A copious amount of silicone was used by the previous rebuilder...after another one used black silicone! I will most probably find some in the valve body...
When I removed the torus cover assembly, I noticed that one rebuilder had a fight with a massive oil leak as this element was repared using silver solder. Not good looking, but efficient as I found no leak after testing.

Strange repair.jpg

Strange enough, the clutches were is a good shape; this was not the reason for the black oil. The Ah, Ah! moment came when I disassembled the front unit coupling. Large elements from the aluminum flange were gone:

Damaged cover.jpg

and the driven torus assembly was damaged too: the small "ears" were flat and a strip of steel was missing:

Damaged driven torus.jpg

The black oil was the result of the destroyed cover and the deep scratches were done by the residues going everywhere. As I found other strange scratchings, this transmission had an hard life.

Fortunately, I had some good used parts and, the ones I don't have will come from the US.

How long hard parts will be available for those transmissions? Sure, the grooves at the hubs could be repaired by turning them and inserting a sleeve. This will be necessary when all the good parts are gone.