Looking for functional hose clamps, don't have to be 'correct'

[TJ Hopland]

Why does it seem like we are stuck with the worm drive hose clamps for everything?  It doesn't seem like factories ever used those or if they did they didn't stick with them for very long.

At the moment I'm working on something from the 90's which seems to be when the spring type really took over and I believe is still pretty common.  Once you get the tools for those they are great and I keep and re use them. 

My problem is I don't usually buy new cars so by the time I get them they have had a few replaced with the worm ones.  Presumably that was because someone in the past mangled them trying to get them off?  Or I have seen and heard people say they are no good and replace them with the worms.

Occasionally I have found someplace that sells what look like the originals but they all seem to be junk that don't spring back even when used with the proper tools.  Anyone know why we apparently can't buy the originals?

The reason I don't like the worm ones is it seems especially on newer stuff with mixed materials they just don't seem to hold properly.  I assume this is due to the expansion rates of different materials and the worms not having any spring to them so they can't maintain the pressure. 

The worms are especially useless when you get below a 3/8"ID hose. The worm body is just too big to fit the contour of smaller lines.   This is a big problem when dealing with some of the smaller lines found on newer cars and small engines.


Has anyone used the wire spool style?  I remember there always used to be a booth with someone selling those at car shows.   This is the type where you wrap the wire around the hose then use the special tool to twist it.  I assume those still exist?

[smokuspollutus]

TJ, I have found the double wire clamps tensioned with a screw to be good in a variety of applications. They don't cut the hose like the worm drive ones can as they tighten, so you can get enough tension to the point where it doesn't loosen up.

They also have fine thread screws to get to the right torque. Unlike a coarse worm drive where as you tighten you run the risk of going from too loose to cracking an old piece of plastic.

The style I'm talking about were used by most domestic OEM's from the 60s thru the 90s.

For the small hoses, I have never had an issue with name brand (like Ideal) worm drive. The smaller diameter ones have a flat band along the entire inner diameter to keep from digging into the hose. I haven't seen any double wires that seemed like quality in the really tiny sizes.

[Daryl Chesterman]

TJ, you can get the GM oem radiator hose clamps from a GM dealer.  This link shows a couple of the clamps that you want that are for a 2004 GMC Sierra 1500, with a 5.3L engine.  If you know what diameter hose clamp you need, a good parts person at a GM dealer should be able to help you.

Edit:  I tried to post the link, but it was very long and would make all other posts on this topic such that a person would have to scroll sideways to read—very inconvenient for people with phones!!!  I'll send you the link in a PM, TJ.

Daryl Chesterman

[Cape Cod Fleetwood]

TJ, I have found the double wire clamps tensioned with a screw to be good in a variety of applications. They don't cut the hose like the worm drive ones can as they tighten, so you can get enough tension to the point where it doesn't loosen up.

They also have fine thread screws to get to the right torque. Unlike a coarse worm drive where as you tighten you run the risk of going from too loose to cracking an old piece of plastic.

The style I'm talking about were used by most domestic OEM's from the 60s thru the 90s.

For the small hoses, I have never had an issue with name brand (like Ideal) worm drive. The smaller diameter ones have a flat band along the entire inner diameter to keep from digging into the hose. I haven't seen any double wires that seemed like quality in the really tiny sizes.

You're talking about tower clamps. When I had The Arks' HVAC restored I told them to use tower clamps since we're
going to the Nationals and its a death sentence points wise to not have the correct clamps. I bought the ones from the company that bought the rights to the original clamps, so they're REAL. And "now" they're all coming loose. Michael already had to tighten one, numerous turns on the lower heater core hose. Now the lower heater control valve is really lose and the clamp at the thermostat is weeping. All of the hoses were new as well. When/if the car ever gets back in the shop just tighten ALL of them. And after the Nationals they're all coming off and getting worm clamps.

[smokuspollutus]

Laurie, I think the tower clamps were used before the double wires. Everyone I've spoken to says the reproduction tower clamps are not good. Maybe they weren't too great to begin with since they got replaced.

[TJ Hopland]

I think this is the 70's and 80's style which seems to go by a lot of names



This is the 90's and I think still current style that I like but seem hard to find especially decent quality.  I have not seen this koolance brand before, they better be good for $8 for a 1/2 size one.



If this isn't the one I remember seeing at shows its very similar.  I suppose one issue would still be its not a spring so it could still have issues keeping things tight.





https://clamptitetools.com/

[bcroe]

The hoses here have been changed a few times,
so the worm drive hose clamp (preferably all
SS) gets used over and over.  Those factory
clamps only work if the hose-pipe combination
is the  perfect size, and perfectly round. 
Towers go straight into the trash here. 
Bruce Roe

[TJ Hopland]

I had to look up tower.   I guess I do remember seeing those but people must not have liked them because by the time I got the cars most of them were gone. 

[skinny_tom]

Let's not forget that OEM clamps of anything are designed to be installed quickly and easily with little other consideration than to get the assembly time minimized and last long enough to get the car out of warranty.

With the somewhat limited options and looking for reasonable prices, I buy stainless worm-screw clamps and try to find the happy medium between tight and too-tight.

[BigV8]

I have the clamp-tite tool and it works great. While I have not done it yet, I plan to use it to attach my radiator hoses on my 1959, then slide the tower clamp over it and tighten. The clamp-tite wire will make the seal, while the tower clamp will hide it and give the correct factory appearance.

The nature of the clamp-tite tool provides an even clamping force around the entire perimeter of the hose.

[V63]

There are new "clamps" that are effectively a "shrink wrap" adaptation.

[TJ Hopland]

I have the clamp-tite tool and it works great.

How small can it do?

Can you un twist them to get em off or do you have to cut it?

[Jason Edge]

If you have a clamp that is designed for a very specific hose size, like Tower, Spring, and Corbin, you basically need to replace the hose when you replace or remove and reinstall the clamp. You might get a few removals and installs before it starts leaking but the pressure of the clamp continues to compress the hose and create an indention.  Age of hose also can accelerate this leaking.

With worm gear clamps above a certain size (about 1/2") you can continue to tighten and tighten and tighten, and that is great if that is the only type clamp you use, however if you ever try to install a Tower, Spring, or Corbin clamp after a worm gear clamp has been installed it will almost never tighten and will almost always leak.

On my 64 Cadillac, which I had been slowly transitioning to to the Tower, Spring and Corbin clamps that were used when new, I know the remove the old hose with worm gear clamp and chunk it ... if I cannot cut the ends off and repurpose for something else.

Again, even if you already had that correct original type clamp in use, it will also compress the hose making a new hose necessary. It is also true that the new replacement original style Tower clamps are thinner gauge than the old originals. That is why I save as many of the originals as I can and have them replated. The reproduction Corbin and Spring Clamps seen fine however.  Just my 2 cents.

[BigV8]

The clamp-tite tool will work on very small diameters, no issue there. You can use different gauges of the stainless-steel safety wire used to make the clamp. I think the wire sizes available are .031", .041" and .051". You size the wire to the clamping diameter needed. I have used the .031" and .041".

You can remove the "clamp" by either bending the wire ends back up to release them or cut the wire off. Either way, you can't reuse the wire, as it will be too short to remake the clamp with the clamp-tite tool. You need about 2 to 3 times the length of wire for the diameter of clamp needed so that you can properly use the tool to make and tighten the clamp. (https://clamptitetools.com/). I will say the tool is well made and I use it for other non-automotive purposes also, such as repairing garden hoses, air compressor hoses and other projects around the house.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Love the look of the Clamp Tite tool.   I have been doing the same thing for many years with welding wire, and a pair of pliers.

Bruce.