Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Another ill transmission

Last post by Roger Zimmermann - Today at 03:04:54 AM

The oil had certainly a bad odor! On the 59-63 transmissions, that release spring is indeed often broken.
Sometimes, I'm wondering how a transmission could still have some functions even with strange damages...
By the way, some years ago I sent to the Netherlands a tool made in brass to check the front unit play. Did I send it to you?

#2

General Discussion / MOVED: Antifreeze lifespan

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 02:36:54 AM

This topic has been moved to Technical / Authenticity.

https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/index.php?topic=174953.0

#3

General Discussion / Re: Rear main seal 68 Eldorado...

Last post by "Cadillac Kid" Greg Surfas 15364 - Yesterday at 11:59:14 PM

You can get the Mhale seal at Rock Auto
Greg Surfas

#4

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1968 DeVille Choke questio...

Last post by ChrisTabat - Yesterday at 11:33:30 PM

Quick update:  I have solved my rich cold running issue.   I replaced the vacuum break and thoroughly cleaned all of the linkage with no success.  I then started going through the on-car adjustments in the manual,  studying how all of the linkage works (or should work.)    There is one rod that goes from the spring to the cold idle linkage on the passenger side of the carb.  There is a second rod that goes from the cold idle linkage up through the carb to the actual choke butterfly.   As I've come to understand it,  the first rod controls how long the cold idle (and corresponding choke setting) stays engaged.   The second rod adjusts the amount of choke that is applied for a given cold idle position.  For the first rod,  shortening it causes the spring to pull the fast idle cam down more quickly.  For the second rod,  lengthen it "pushes" the choke open further for a relative fast idle setting.  The first rod was out of spec by about 1/4 inch (too long.)  After adjusting it to spec,  it ran much better, but still a bit rich for a minute or two about 2 minutes after the cold start.  Shortened it up a bit more and it is close to perfect,  but I prefer it a little "cold blooded" to prolonged fast idle/rich running. 

#5

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1950 Delco Remy Starter ge...

Last post by Jeff Hansen - Yesterday at 10:55:18 PM

Todd,

You mentioned you painted the starter.  Make sure ALL mounting surfaces are clean bare metal - no paint!  This goes for the solenoid, too.  Everything has to ground to complete the electrical circuit.

Jeff

#6

General Discussion / Re: Can You Spot The Cadillac?

Last post by Jason Edge - Yesterday at 09:28:10 PM

'63 convertible.

Yep! Owned by Roy Brosi from Pennsylvania.

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Re: 1950 Delco Remy Starter ge...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Yesterday at 09:04:24 PM

Check the contacts in the back of the Solenoid are in good condition, and that the copper disc is still in place to complete the power transfer when the solenoid is fully retracted.

These are designed to not rotate until the Bendix is fully engaged with the Ring Gear.

Bruce.

#8

General Discussion / Re: Can You Spot The Cadillac?

Last post by 35-709 - Yesterday at 08:51:40 PM

'63 convertible.

#9

General Discussion / Can You Spot The Cadillac?

Last post by Jason Edge - Yesterday at 08:47:49 PM

I have been working on the 63/64 Cadillac Chapter Newsletter the last few days and often do a "Sneak Peek" of our featured car. Sometimes they are not so sneaky and other times more so. Anyway, I posted this picture today and thought it was worthy of posting here on the CLC Forums.  The camper is an 1964 Airstream. What year and body style Cadillac is pulling it?  I would guess that most of you can narrow the model year down to two years... so this should not be so tough.
So here is the "Sneak Peak" picture:

#10

Restoration Corner / Re: Carl 61 Fleetwood Phyllis

Last post by Clewisiii - Yesterday at 08:29:22 PM

I wonder if I would be brave enough to do a vintage car Cannonball run after my car is complete.