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#11
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1937 Series 75 Fleetwood, ...
Last post by Bryan J Moran - Yesterday at 08:09:51 PM
I always wanted to save every 7P and 75 series or so - from the golden age but it's not possible. We have even seen very rare 1940 era formal sedans on here, probably still unrestored.   The V12's and the V16's of course will likely be saved.  The V8's probably less and less. Therefore, in my opinion, a restomod may be an excellent choice. 
#12
For Sale - Cars / Re: 1937 Series 75 Fleetwood, ...
Last post by 35-709 - Yesterday at 07:58:56 PM
If the car is basically complete (except for the engine and trans.), it might be a good candidate for someone to resto-mod.  Rather than scrap it/part it, the body looks to be in nice, rust free condition and a good project to get back on the road.  Would cost about the same as a restoration (or less), and make an interesting, reliable, travel-worthy cruiser (assuming it was properly done) that people would love to see going down the road.  I have a great time with Big Red and we travel a lot much to the delight of others.  Much more fun and many more smiles than driving around in a modern car.  Takes a while to get gas sometimes though since many want to look at it, talk about it, and ask questions.  I know I am in the minority here, but my cars are carefully built to enjoy on the road and I do just that as much as I can.         
#13
General Discussion / Re: Stuck Engines
Last post by Clewisiii - Yesterday at 06:42:30 PM
I naively thought I would be able to break my engine free and slowly work it around with a tune up and start it.
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Not a chance. It was completely rusted solid. I had to pull the engine and trans together, unbolt all the pistons from the crank in order to rotate the trans to separate it.
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I broke two pistons beating them out of the cylinders. And that was after soaking in Marvels and a gallon of PB for a month.

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There was oil in the pan. but no water in the block. but lots of rust.

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I had bought new heads. I was surprised the machine shop wanted to restore the originals.
#14
General Discussion / Re: Stuck Engines
Last post by dn010 - Yesterday at 06:33:23 PM
If it is now running I am back to putting a borescope down the plug holes. Check the cylinder walls. Does it smoke?
#15
Technical / Authenticity / Re: THM 425 Question
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 06:25:25 PM
I'm for sure no transmission expert.... So my opinion may not even be wroth 2 cents.

How does it act when you are harder on the gas?  Does it delay things or does it still seem too early?  How about if you floor it?  Floor is an electrical circuit so different than the gov or vacuum.

Thinking out loud about the governor for it to be making the trans think its going too fast it would have to be spreading out sooner than it should.  I assume the weights are held 'in' with a spring or springs?  So if a spring was broken or damaged perhaps that could cause this issue?

It was years ago that I had one out of a 425, I think to deal with the speedo and oil leaks.  I don't remember seeing the weight part so I'm guessing it wasn't obvious or easy how to expose that part of things?  I think it was just an O ring for sealing it back up. 

The vacuum modulator with a strong vacuum signal would tell the transmission the load isn't that great so would shift earlier vs no signal that would delay and firm shifts.  Failure would give you the delay so that doesn't seem like whats happening unless its just stuck in the early mode which would seem unlikely since it takes vacuum to get there so most of the time especially when its sitting its in delay mode.  Unless maybe the transmission internal pressure (or lack of) effects what the at rest mode is? 

I don't think you have been able to find the giant ones for a long long time now so if you still have that that means its an older one.  The replacements are much smaller.  Similar to the gov I think its just held in with a clip and an O ring for a seal.  Nothing is going to explode or fall out if you remove it.  It just acts upon a plunger that I think goes into the valve body. 
#16
General Discussion / Re: Stuck Engines
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 06:13:00 PM
I think you will have to just go by what the sellers tell you.  Only other option would be for you to tear down the engine and look for damage yourself which doesn't seem like it would be worth the trouble if it seems to be performing correctly. 

Is this such a high value car that its really going to make a difference?

I'm thinking you just treat it like any other used car. 
#17
General Discussion / Re: Why Did I Receive This???
Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 06:09:19 PM
I asked about re using an old number and was told that would only be possible if you had expired since the new company took over the 'paperwork' side of things which has only been a couple years I think so not likely that many that fell into that category. 
#18
General Discussion / Re: Making parts when you can ...
Last post by Jay Friedman - Yesterday at 05:23:18 PM
My table has little steel tabs with bolt holes at floor level. Into those I installed permanent steel "feet" which in turn sit on small rubber pads to protect the garage floor. I think (hope?) it's all stiff enough.  I check the balance and twist every so often with a machinist's level.  My chip tray is just a sheet metal pan.

My steel plates under the table top holes are 1/4" thick. Where did you obtain the 5/8" plates?  I have a copy of "A Guide.....". The book I mentioned is published by the same people.  My milling attachment is useful for small jobs.  It has its limitations, of course. 

I have several types of tool holders, including a lantern and one I made myself, but not a quick-change. My favorite tool holder is The Diamond Tool Holder made in Australia. It sits vertically like very early lathes and it's easy to grind tools for it using an included jig. (I'm not good at grinding tools.) I have a larger one for my South Bend and a smaller one for my Taig. 

https://www.eccentricengineering.com.au/products/diamond-tool-holder/the-diamond-tool-holder
#19
Technical / Authenticity / Re: 69 DeVille - Dash Panel Qu...
Last post by R Simone - Yesterday at 05:05:20 PM
I removed the dash panel as klinebau suggested and it wasn't nearly as bad as I anticipated.  I removed the front pillar covers and then half a dozen bolts or so holding the dash pad down and was then able to replace the dash insert with minimal trouble. Thanks everyone!
#20
General Discussion / Re: Can You Spot The Cadillac?
Last post by Jason Edge - Yesterday at 04:08:59 PM
Quote from: cadillacmike68 on May 19, 2024, 06:35:32 PMThat was too easy.
For some! I see posts all the time on Facebook with a full on, close up, in your face, rear 1963 Cadillac post and some one, or several, will swear it is a 1964 Cadillac and vice versa. That is the difference sometimes between the CLC Forums and Facebook and general social media sites. Actually...I just thought it was a cool picture and this was a good reason to share.  :)