Asking best course of action? Goal is to have an original green tint glass with the EZ EYE markings if possible and stop water leakage. Window cracked due to mal adjustment and rear connection point to the regulator is rusted off the window frame due to long term water leakage. I think tempered glass was originally used in side windows. Is laminated or tempered glass correct, or does it matter? Is it ok to repair the frame such as welding the piece back on or better to just replace the glass and frame as one piece? The manual is not real descriptive so I'm considering looking for a shop. Replaced weather stripping on vent window 2 years ago trying to stop leaking. It helped, but not completely stop it. I'm planning to replace the felt. What else should be replaced or adjusted as long as I'm doing this job? Car in storage now but want my ducks in a row when get it out. Any advice on this job will be welcome including for a shop in Northeast Ohio.
Not your year and model. But I like pictures for people to talk around.
1961 laminated safety glass.
IMG_20240109_125001103.jpgIMG_20240109_125006234.jpgIMG_20240109_125019246.jpgIMG_20240109_125026734.jpgIMG_20240109_125117791.jpgIMG_20240109_125133089.jpgIMG_20240109_125145291.jpgIMG_20240109_125200516.jpgIMG_20240109_125214361.jpg
Thanks for posting these pictures. Great point of reference.
I am trying to figure out if anyone cuts new glass from laminated glass. Everything I am finding is tempered and thinner since only one layer.
I reached out to Auto City Glass to ask what they sell. I never got an answer.
https://www.autocityclassic.com/assembledleftrightdoorglass1959-1960-2-door-hardtop-catalina-jobs-2137-bonneville-2837/1959-1960-buick/cadillac/chevrolet/oldsmo
Doesn't that company also reproduce the correct glass etchings?
Quote from: Clewisiii on January 09, 2024, 04:51:05 PMI am trying to figure out if anyone cuts new glass from laminated glass. Everything I am finding is tempered and thinner since only one layer.
Any good glass supplier can cut flat Laminated Glass, and then polish the edges.
I have had many pieces cut for projects, and even tinted glass, with the laminate being the tinting material.
Bruce. >:D
It's been a while, but my car in storge for 4 to 5 more weeks. I contacted Auto City Glass and they were helpful, but I have questions. First what was the original thickness of the window glass in the side window? Auto City glass says 3/8 inch thick and laminated. Second, do the repro frames from Auto City glass match the original frames? I heard that a lot of repro is darker than original. I ask because I am going to interview an old school glass shop and I need to know what I need. He is in his 70ies and talking about retiring, but sounds like he knows these cars and has done them before. He is offering to cut the glass, but tempered not laminate. I'm interested in what others have done to get good results. Any advice will be appreciated.
Mike.
I don't know what replace the felt means.
Do you mean the channel on the divider between the window and vent - then yes the channel over its entire length.
Since the vent still leaks, replace the rubber.
I would also consider the condition of bottom rubber stop.
I would also consider replacing the "L" shaped upper stop at the top of the divider channel.
And finally, I would replace the fuzzy sweeps on the inside and outside of the door panel, tp wipe the gales of rain outside and the fog on the inside.
Be sure to replace them using SS staples as were used originally when they were attached.
Be sure to reattach the water-proof paper barrier with mastic on the inside of the door panel, behind the interior door card - all around the edges and around the door handle assembly.
I would suggest you locate an automotive glass replacement shop, and take your window and its frame to confirm any repair to the existing frame (or its entire replacement), the use of laminated glass only, the use of glazing tape, and finally to confirm the shade of the tint to match the rest of your car.
Having the shop reinstall the window and frame so that it will be adjusted professionally, would be a plus - to avoid another headache later.
Have fun,
Steve B.
Definitely not 3/8" thickness. More likely 1/4" but someone will know. But, is Laminated.
Plus, Laminated is easy to cut, but getting the right amount of tinting could be difficult if yours is tinted.
The thickness is easy to check using a Micrometer. Verniers don't have the step in to allow for the surrounding frame thickness, but it can be done. Put two pieces of material on either side of the glass, measure, then subtract the thickness of the two pieces from the measurement, and you have the glass thickness.
Bruce. >:D
Mike,
I was surprised to see someone said 3/8" - like house glass.
Bruce is correct, the glass is "more like" 1/4".
If the original glass was tinted, then the replacement glass should be 6.38 mm laminated "green" glass. The glass is two sheets of 3 mm and the laminate is the .38 mm. All glass was marked/etched with an indicium (indicating the manufacture type of glass and date produced), commonly referred to as the "BUG".
6.38mm = 1/4".
Have fun,
Steve B.
Thanks for the info about thickness and the glass sweeps and stainless steel staples. I would not have thought about them. I should mention that the only original side glass is the drivers rear. All others have been replaced before. Auto City Glass gave me the 3/8 inch thickness. I have located a couple of glass shops who are willing to do it, but I have to take the car to them first so they can see the job. If necessary, where can I source the sweeps and staples? Also where can I source the paper and mastic for the water barrier. Can i use plastic sheeting for it?
Mike,
I have attached a picture of the water barrier pulled back from the door so help orient where and how it is attached.
It is heavy heavy paper, not cardboard, with a slick shinny coating on the side of the paper that mastics to the door sheet metal.
I would suggest Googling the barrier and the sweeps and staples.
Replacing the SS staples will be a task - challenge.
You never heard this from me, but if it's too much of a challenge, use small short BLACK screws.
Have fun,
Steve B.
I need to replace my 59 windows but I'm not looking forward to it.
If your window frames have the inside stainless steel drip gutter, I believe you're better off getting your original frames rebuilt. Auto city did mine and they turned out great. I wouldn't worry about the glass thickness, it's standard on all GM cars. The glass is laminated.
Turns out, Rubber the Right way has the wipes, channel and even the stainless steel staples. The person I spoke to also suggested small screws to attach wipes as glass shop may not have the right equipment to install the staples correctly. I'll let the glass shop tell me what parts they think I need. How do I know if wipes or channel needs replacement?