1954 Cadillac sedan. Rear wheel won’t turn

[tommysav]

Hi all,

I am new here.  However, I have read many columns and posts about my car, but can't find any related to my problem.  My searches come back "no results."

My car has not run in 10 years.  I am ready to try to start it up. Because I will be pouring some gas in the carburetor, I want to pull it out of the garage in case of a fire. However, the right side real wheel won't turn.  I took the tire off, but cannot get the hub to separate so I can see the brakes. I know this is not an easy job.  I am about to buy a small heating torch.  Am I on the right track?

Thank you.  A link to any previous discussion would be fine also.

[Dave Shepherd]

You mean you can't  get the brake drum off? Was the e brake on during storage?

[tommysav]

Yes, the brake drum.  Sorry, long day today.  No, emergency brake wasn't engaged.  I saw brake part on the garage floor back then, and saved it.  But it cannot be found now.  I just need to get the wheel to turn.  I am not concerned at this point, about the brakes.  If I can get it running, I have a potential buyer. 

Thank you for the response. 

[Dave Shepherd]

Try hitting the drum on the outer perimeter  with a medium sized hammer, do this with a good size pry bar between the studs to try and turn it while hitting the drum, may need 2 people to do this.

[dn010]

You will also benefit from turning the star wheel from the inspection/adjusting slot on the brake backing plate to remove some of the tension. Then hitting it with hammer should break it free.

Use a small squirt bottle of fuel for the carb to reduce your risk of a major fire.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

If your car is post 1959, that is, '60 and later, then it has the self-adjusting brakes.   To release the internal adjuster, you need to have two tools.   A brake adjuster, and a thin pointer to press on the self adjusting arm to keep it clear of the ratchet so the wheel on the adjuster can be unwound.

It is difficult to suggest just how much, and where to strike the brake drum to free it from its' grip on the axle spigot, but it takes a fair bit.   If you are unsure, try and find an "oldtimer" to show you how to do it.

Bruce.

[Julien Abrahams]

Good tip on the adjuster (he has a '54, so non sel
There is a little rubber boot on the back of the backing plate (at the bottom). Then you can insert a screwdriver in that hole to turn the star adjuster to release the tension. Not enitrely sure which way to turn it, but I guess that you will notice it when they get tighter. The bottom shoe return spring contacts the adjuster so that the star wheel is prevented from turning so it might be quite hard to adjust. 

[tommysav]

I appreciate all the help!  The car is jacked up using a floor Jack, I have a backup jack under the main frame as well.  But there is precious little room under there to move around. I can see the adjustment, but naturally, I do not have the proper tool.  An old-timer would develop a back injury, so it's just me. I'm not exactly a spring chicken either (70), but I can move pretty good, and nightly Advil helps.  I am using two small screwdrivers to try to work the adjuster, but to no avail due to the lack of room AND the fact that I have never done this before, and can't see the locking mechanism, only the turning mechanism.  So I am working blind.  The drum moves about a quarter of an inch now when I pull it, but that's it.  Not sure whether to keep trying to work the adjuster, or bang the drum and try to pry.  No good options here.

[Dave Shepherd]

The proper brake adjustment  tool is available at any auto parts store.

[dn010]

The outer lip on the drum is probably catching the shoes at this point, preventing you from pulling it all the way off. If you can't get the proper tool, I found that one large flat head screwdriver works fine - small always slipped or you can't get leverage. There should not be any locking mechanism, just a large spring running under it that keeps it from turning.

[The Tassie Devil(le)]

Here is one I made out of an old screwdriver.   It is the top one in the picture.

Bruce.

[tommysav]

Once again thanx for all the help, everybody.  I am back at it tomorrow.  I feel good about my chances.  Tassie Devil(le), you are a great administrator, I appreciate your help with posting me in the proper forum, and the pictures of the tools.  I will pick up a tool from the parts store, thanx to Mr Shepherd, and after reading comments from dn010, I am hoping for the best.

[signart]

Since you are able to at least move the drum in and out, this means you could now benefit from some lube saturation. I would start spraying your favorite penetrant all around the perimeter from the backside toward the shoes. Pry on the drum and tap back in, repeat.
If you can eventually get it to turn, that will get the penetrant and the rusted debris to relocate, and hopefully gain some ground.
The drum can move in and out to some degree and still be stuck to the shoes. If that is the case, the drum is not coming off until it turns.

If all else fails, then I would put the wheel/tire back on and rock or pull the car with full weight on the pavement/concrete and see if it will break loose. (assuming it does not run)
Good Luck.