Recent posts

#1

Technical / Authenticity / Re: '61 Water Pump

Last post by Jon S - Today at 09:43:14 AM

For water pumps, fuel pumps I've used this firm and was always
pleased:
https://arthurgouldrebuilders.parkerspackards.com/

Whatever you do, have your originals rebuilt.  Buying anything
"new" will be Chinese "junk".

Mike

I totally agree. Arthur Gould is the guy.

#2

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Squeaking belts on '61 Dev...

Last post by Jon S - Today at 09:41:11 AM

These notched belts suck and look ugly. I use bar soap on the belt with the engine off. I suspect one of your belts needs a little more tensioning.

#3

For Sale - Cars / Re: 1973 Big Red Eldorado

Last post by James Landi - Today at 08:01:35 AM

"Inoperative Level Ride will not affect ride quality. It only means the car cannot level itself automatically. A pair of manual rear air shocks will accomplish the same thing except air must be manually added/released for the desired trim height depending on weight of trunk contents/rear passengers. Level Ride is completely different from Air Suspension."

I respectfully disagree, unless, the newer models of that generation Eldorados had rear coil springs that better adjusted for nominal height without vacuum actuated comprressed air boost .... the ones I owned had those single rear leaf spring arrangements, and without the air ride, the rear end would bottom out on moderate bumps and seeing anything through the rear view mirror was compromised.  I had one of those leaf spring snap at the axle shackle when the air ride failed (bang!!!), and that rendered the car on a severe list to starboard, as if we were sinking stern first!  Eric, I agree that the work around can work, but as you mentioned it's not a perfect solution.   James 

#4

General Discussion / Re: Wiring

Last post by James Landi - Today at 07:33:57 AM

"To solve the distributor problem just swap the distributor from your old engine.  Let us know if you need instructions on how to do that, there are tricks to make it easier."

Perhaps you didn't read TJ's suggestion... I have direct experience with the distributor swap. It worked for me with a computer managed Cadillac into which I swapped an older model Olds carburetor engine... worked perfectly.  James

#5

General Discussion / Re: Vinyl Top

Last post by James Landi - Today at 07:30:28 AM

 I don't disagree with Bruce, but in my experience, I used many kinds of greasy top dressings on a weekly (weekend) basis, weather permitting. I've had many well used, un garaged Cadillacs with weather faded vinyl, and in my experience, keeping the vinyl "well lubed" extends the life of the vinyl and halts the rust pimples that forms underneath from growing.  Some of the newer Cadillacs had fiberglass roof "shells" that were fastened to the top, with the vinyl glued to the fiberglass, Attempting to keep cancerous rust from the fastener holes with some kind of oily top dressing around the windshield and back window can help in these situations as well. You might not favor  the "Brylcream" look, but it does work to extend the life of the vinyl that has lost its ability to repel water . James

#6

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Pillar Post Weatherstrips ...

Last post by The Tassie Devil(le) - Today at 07:23:35 AM

G'day Mika,

I too have found that the reproduction products are not as good as the originals, as if they were, the cars would never have left the production line simply because they couldn't operate successfully.

I have replaced the weatherstrips in my Non-Cadillac rebuild, and have to slam the doors, whereas before, the doors closed nicely, but, I had to replace the parts because they were worn out, split, etc.

When I replaced the door weatherstrips, each time I went to wind the windows down in my '72 Eldorado, the glass would "grab" the rubber, and pull it down into the door.

The only way I could stop this, save completely readjusting the doors was to use a product called Slipicone.   This is a food grade silicone that doesn't leave too much of a residue.  I sprayed the rubber, and during the operation of the glass, wiped off the excess.

When I dissect the original rubber, there is a soft sponge-like rubber inside the slightly thicker, more solid outer layer, allowing the superior compression, whilst allowing for the sliding of the glass.   Reproduction rubber cannot replicate the original compounds/cross-section, even though they can create the actual shape.

They are in it to make money, whereas the factory was in it to sell cars that worked perfectly when they left the production line.

Bruce.

#7

Technical / Authenticity / Pillar Post Weatherstrips prev...

Last post by Finndorado - Today at 07:09:00 AM

Hello Gentlemen !

I wonder if anybody has had the same issue as I do with the front power windows not
going all the way up because it seems that the A pillar post weather strip is too thick..?
and makes the window path too tight in the end. When I look at the window in all up position
and close the door, I can see the pillar rubber pushing the window outwards, maybe too much
(perhaps 4-7mm, hard to tell while "slamming" the door) because I dodn`t know what`s a normal amount.
I had the power motors renewed by a good reputation classic car garage, and he said
that he cannot adjust the windows to work properly even he has tried everything with it, and actually he was
wondering if the A pillar post weather strip rubber is too thick ?
I trust his experience in adjusting thw windows, at least much more than my own.
Otherwise the windows work just fine with speed and power.
All the weather strips are renewed by the former owner of the car and they are in good shape,
but if they are some reproduction model that are no good..?
If so, where could I get decent/good quality ones with the highest probability ?
With the repair man we agreed to adjust the windows so that they are ok otherwise, but I have to
open the door when pulling the window up the last inches.
Silicon I havent tried yet, but that might not be the right way to solve the issue.

Thanks
Mika

#8

General Discussion / Re: Wiring

Last post by Clifton 77 - Today at 07:08:32 AM

It's the wiring that come on the engine. It runs under the air compressor into the block.

#9

Technical / Authenticity / Re: Squeaking belts on '61 Dev...

Last post by Big Fins - Today at 06:35:20 AM

I'm going to say tension isn't tight enough, or...the driven item, IE: water pump, P/S pump, generator is binding more than it should. Remove the belts and manually spin the driven items feeling the amount of effort needed. It is minimal on all of these. They should easily spin a few revolutions after you spin them by hand. Even the generator fully loaded at 35 amps shouldn't make a belt squeal that at the proper tension.

#10

General Discussion / Re: I found some interesting e...

Last post by TJ Hopland - Yesterday at 11:44:57 PM

Does anyone know what engines Cadillac has been using in recent years?  I sort of tried some searching and could not really figure it out.  I'm assuming this guy has torn some down they just didn't happen to come out of Cadillacs.   I'm just curious if they are using any of the really crazy complex engines.

Watching these videos is making me think the 4100 was a pretty good and simple engine. Simple at least.