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1941 Hydra-Matic Transmission Yoke

Started by J. Russo, March 25, 2024, 04:21:40 PM

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J. Russo


I have a Series 63 with a Hydra-matic transmission and I want to change the rear seal.

I've been reading several posts on removing the differential on the '41 Cadillacs.

Some say the driveshaft slips out at the transmission and others say the early '41s were bolted in. I disconnected the driveshaft from the pinion end.

The attached photo shows a bolt head  circled with the bolt toward the transmission end housing.

Does this mean my driveshaft is bolted in? If so I'd like to know what I'm getting into if I decide to remove the bolt. I tried pulling the driveshaft out but it isn't moving.

Thank you
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

Driveshaft is bolted to the flange. Remove the bolts then you have the large nut holding yoke to the output shaft now it gets tricky to do the R and I, a shop manual should be utilized for the next steps.

toybox

Hi John,                                                                                                           
            The seal is pretty straight forward . With the yoke out you need to make or buy a seal removing hook to pull the seal out the with some gentle finessing tap the new one back in. At least that's how my 46 went 4 years ago.
                                                                                                   Tim

J. Russo

Quote from: toybox on March 26, 2024, 01:17:42 PMHi John,                                                                                                           
            The seal is pretty straight forward . With the yoke out you need to make or buy a seal removing hook to pull the seal out the with some gentle finessing tap the new one back in. At least that's how my 46 went 4 years ago.
                                                                                                   Tim


I was able to remove the yoke and the seal. The seal was not original and came out pretty easily by prying with a screwdriver.

Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

Next step is important,  how to tighten the yoke nut to the proper torque.

J. Russo

Quote from: Dave Shepherd on March 26, 2024, 02:49:54 PMNext step is important,  how to tighten the yoke nut to the proper torque.

Dave, I haven't seen any torque specs for the yoke bolt so I measured the torque with my torque wrench starting at 30 ft. Lbs. I gradually increased the torque until the bolt turned. The torque was set at about 65 ft lbs.

I'm not sure if that is correct but that's what I came up with.

Let me know if you have any specs on it connecting to the hydra-matic.

The yoke also is grooved a bit (photos) but not deep. Should I be concerned?

Thanks
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

Should be 85lb/Ft, use some medium Loctite on the threads, sparingly.

J. Russo

Quote from: Dave Shepherd on March 26, 2024, 03:46:01 PMShould be 85lb/Ft, use some medium Loctite on the threads, sparingly.

Thanks Dave,

Should I be concerned with the groove and very light pitting on the Yoke? The groove formed where the seal rubber meets the yoke. It's not a deep groove. I'm just wondering if the seal could leak if not smooth.
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

Fit the new seal onto the yoke, see if it seals well in the worn area, also compare the new seal to the old, see if the contact area is at the same position.

J. Russo

Quote from: Dave Shepherd on March 27, 2024, 08:24:16 AMFit the new seal onto the yoke, see if it seals well in the worn area, also compare the new seal to the old, see if the contact area is at the same position.

The contact area of the 2 seals is the same. The seal also seems to fit snug in the worn area, although it is tighter in the area of the woke shaft that is not worn. That should be expected since it is not worn.
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

Sounds like you should be ok, as there is no pressure at that area, just static seal. Now they do make repair sleeves, particularly for harmonic balancers, you may want to look into that.

LaSalle5019

I would install a Speedi-Sleeve. I have used them on a number of applications with excellent results. I just put one on the harmonic balancer on my 1962 Olds F-85.

Measure the diameter of your yoke then go to the SKF website and look up the correct part number for that size. The SKF site also has all the info on how to install (pretty simple). Once you have a part number, just put it in Google search and a number of vendors will come up.

https://www.skf.com/us/products/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve

toybox

 John,           My big concern would be how (smooth) the yoke  is where the seal rides if that is not a polished finish the the seal wont last and this job will be for nothing. As you said someone replaced it already and I assume you are replacing it because it failed again. Some 1000 grit wet paper and a little time will go along way here. Also some sealer around the outer perimeter of the seal where it seats to the housing is a good idea.
                                                                                      Tim

J. Russo

Quote from: LaSalle5019 on March 27, 2024, 09:38:20 AMI would install a Speedi-Sleeve. I have used them on a number of applications with excellent results. I just put one on the harmonic balancer on my 1962 Olds F-85.

I have a question about using Speedi-Sleeve. I watched a couple videos and it makes sense as far as having a smoother surface for the seal. My question is what prevents fluid from leaking between the new sleeve and the shaft since the seal is on the outside of the sleeve? Do you apply sealant on the shaft before installing the sleeve?

Thanks
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

#14
A properly sized repair sleeve is a semi press fit on the repair surface, so leakage not an issue.

The Tassie Devil(le)

I use Loctite Super Bearing Mount when fitting Speedie Sleeves.   Never had any leakage.

Plus, real easy to fit using the supplied tool and a hammer.   If I have to press it on further, I cut the end off the Installer, and use a tube the same size as the installer.

Bruce. >:D 
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe

toybox

 Bruce, Did you know you could heat it in your kitchen oven to about 300 and it will just side on?  Tim

J. Russo

I just want to make sure of something related to installing the sleeve.

The sleeve that matches my seal is 11/16 long and the shaft length is 7/8.

The sales person I talked with had no answer.

I watched a few videos and they all show tapping the sleeve until it stops at the end of the shaft.

In my case the area I want to cover is closer to the beginning of the shaft. If I tap it in as far as it will go it'll pass the damaged area.

Is it ok that the sleeve isn't tapped all the way on the shaft?

The yoke I'm referring to is in the previous comments.
Thanks,
John Russo
CLC Member #32828

Dave Shepherd

To do that using Loctite super bearing mount, as Tassie suggested, will insure it will stay in place.

The Tassie Devil(le)

Quote from: toybox on March 28, 2024, 01:41:27 PMBruce, Did you know you could heat it in your kitchen oven to about 300 and it will just side on?  Tim
G'day Tim,

But, the heat will probably have a deleterious effect on the sealant.

Bruce. >:D
'72 Eldorado Convertible (LHD)
'70 Ranchero Squire (RHD)
'74 Chris Craft Gull Wing (SH)
'02 VX Series II Holden Commodore SS Sedan
(Past President Modified Chapter)

Past Cars of significance - to me
1935 Ford 3 Window Coupe
1936 Ford 5 Window Coupe
1937 Chevrolet Sports Coupe
1955 Chevrolet Convertible
1959 Ford Fairlane Ranch Wagon
1960 Cadillac CDV
1972 Cadillac Eldorado Coupe