Of course everyone already knows that I bought a 2004 Grand Marquis, and that I absolutely HATE the thing. Im told that it rides as smoothly and steers as easily as any new car, so now my question is, someone must have persuaded the carmakers that they wanted a car that was difficult to steer and had a rough ride. Who was it, and WHY?
I drove my 76 hearse to work today, and could not believe how much easier it is to drive than the new car. The steering is effortless, and I remember thinking that the ride was a little rougher than the 78 Deville was, but compared to the new car, its a magic carpet!
Tony says that the federal standards limit the weight of a car, and that is why the Mercury rides so rough...but it weighs 4000 pounds. How much does a 78 Deville weigh? I dont think its much more than that.
I wonder if there is any way I could make the steering box and the springs from the Sedan Deville fit in the Mercury.
-densie
Ask your dealer just what changes he can make to soften the ride. Like mushy springs and softer shocks. I like those too. Then see if he can boost the steering pump output, like a smaller pulley or something. Perhaps there is an adjustment, though I doubt it. A larger wheel would also do the trick, thats how my 38 steers so lightly. Nineteen inch wheel! Bump the tire pressure two or three pounds. This stuff may not be factory parts so try aftermarket also.
As for the De Ville, it probably weighs around five thousand. My 76 Delta 88 weighs about forty eight hundred. You can get it weighed at a place that does recycling, buys scrap, or maybe even a truck stop. Some will go that low!
A 78 deVille would weigh closer to 4000 lbs. Remember, the full-sized GM cars were all downsized in 77. Im sure the difference in ride is from the springs. The more modern car is probably designed to handle a little better. You almost always have to sacrifice ride for handling. That is, of course, unless youre lucky enough to own one of the 90s Cadillacs with the $850 shocks that change properties with the dynamics of the type of driving youre doing. :)
Rob
66 SDV
Denise..........Put the Cadillac Radiator cap on it.......Peter
P.s. The steering feels that way because the tie rods are ahead of the spindle center line on a rack system...I purchased a 2003 Mercury Maurader as my work car, had a 1998 Lincoln Continental Coupe with a 5.4 before...after test driving everything, I found the Merc and the Model I purchased ( bucket seat, hi-pro 4.5, wheels, tires, BIG trunk)the best and it has worked out great, it could use about 50/75 more horsepower..............I put a lot of miles on my cars and only wish I could buy another new one, but ford dropped the Maurader from their product line, they also dropped the Lightning pick up truck which I have and I like as well as a C-5 Corvette, and I had a Blackwood Lincoln pick up.......hated the steering and ride of it, so I sold it, by the way ford dropped it as well................On your steering, have the dealer align it, that may help...........but most importantly install the Cadillac Radiator Cap.
I went to the Mercury dealer. They charged me $59 for a wheel alignment and told me that there was nothing wrong with it. So I sent an email to the dealership and asked them if there were any modifications of adjustments that could be done. They never replied to me. ;(
Im actually tempted to take the thing back, ask how much it would cost just to get out from under it, and put the difference on my credit card.
The biggest problem is, I never know when I will feel up to working on my cars. I gave up on the Deville because it needed more work than I could ever get done, and I really wanted an older, larger car anyway. The truck is reliable, but it doesnt steer right since the accident. Although I drive it to work for laughs sometimes, the hearse is a long-term project. That leaves me nothing to drive but this awful Mercury.
Maybe by the time I get caught up on my projects (the airplane just blew its brake O-rings and the boat has a hole in the transom boot), I will have the car paid down enough to get an older Caddy, Lincoln, or New Yorker. Whatever it would be, I would take some time to sit in it, feel it, smell it, drive it, decide whether I would really want to make it a long term ride. I liked the body style on the Deville, but the car is really too small for me, and the interior looks kind of cheap. I didnt take enough time to meditate on it before I bought it.
Enough rambling.
-densie
Id better not. It says that it weighs 17 pounds, and I dont want to lift that much. ;)
-densie
Ive noticed a strong trend towards stiff suspensions and hard steering over the years. My 89 Firebird steered like it had manual steering. I think all of this is in the name of better handling. The current generation of auto journalists feeds on this. Anything old fashioned (read expensive to build) is bad in todays world of Government mandates and high labor costs to automakers who must show profits and yet be competitive. Small, lightweight, fuel efficient cars dont handle or ride well and those characteristics are passed along to customers like you for the sake of trendiness on a product which could provide past levels of comfort and performance without any additional costs. The steering on my 89 Grand Marquis provides a traditional level of power assist. The 99 and 02 Camaros I owned steered like trucks. The 03 Monte Carlo SS is surprisingly not too bad. The 50s era Chrysler products were criticized for being over-assisted with little road feel. I find those cars to steer exactly where I point them and are a pleasure to drive. There is a supplier of rebuilt steering boxes for those Chryslers which offers several levels of power assist ranging from OEM to "modern" lack of assist. With internal re-calibration of your Mercurys steering box hydraulics, you could probably obtain the desired level of assist. But of course the dealership and nearly everyone else in the service industry wouldnt have a clue to what were talking about. Maybe that guy who does the old Chrysler units could if he tried (just send money).
Maybe in a few years. I contacted a steering specialist and he said that there was nothing he could do with racks, and that the manufacturor wanted them to be stiff. I checked the other day, there are 2.5 turns in the steering, lock to lock. I thought it was bad in the late 70s when they went to 3, sneeze and you run off the road, but at least they had power steering back then.
Ive thought about applying voltage or whatever it needs to the connector at the rack and making it apply full power steering at all speeds, or maybe changing the caster angle with some creative shimming, or maybe taking the car back to the service department and just refusing to accept it back intil it has power steering, even if it means a repossession. Or maybe parking it down in the bad side of town and taking a cab somewhere else.
One thing that is for sure is that I made a BIG mistake in buying that car. I tried emailing the Mercury dealer about it and they just never answered me.
-densie
Denise,
As a handicapped individual, I can empathize with your situation. It makes me madder than hell, in fact. If I may, I would like to email Mercury on your behalf...I think we all should...to have that steering adjusted properly for you.
Someone should be able to do SOMETHING for you.
Dont give up...unlike me, dont get mad...just get it done. Keep at it and see if they cannot help you. Contact your local consumer advocate on a local news station, contact the Attorney Generals office in your state; contact your local city representative. Yes it takes time and its a pain in the arse but no one else will help if you do not start rocking the cage.
If you would like, I would be happy to start by emailing the dealership, and the Lincoln-Mercury Headquarters. I just need your full name, contact information, dealership and what you bought, and what you need. The rest, as they say, is a matter of typing.
Please let me know if I can be any help at all.
Sincerely,
Randy
I, too, find the steering excessively stiff on most all of the newer cars I have driven. After a stint at the wheel, it actually makes my neck and shoulders hurt. The seats, while supposedly orthpedically designed, make my back hurt. And all this combined with an overly stiff suspension make for a very uncomfortable ride.
Even with the F-41 suspension, my 85 Caprice is a comfortable car to drive. It has the old standard bench seat, albeit with power adjustment. I can jump in that car and go anywhere with no complaints.
Belive it or not, I can jump into a Freightliner and go anywhere. These trucks, with the air ride seats, are incredibly comfortable. The steering is just about right, with a well placed wheel. All trucks now have sophisticated tilt and telescopic steering. Even bob tailing, I find them more comfortable than most any new car. Now, what does that say? You just have to get used to a heavy clutch and the art of gear changing.
Maybe that is on of the reasons I hang onto these old cars. Because they are indeed comfortable. The steering in the 86 Fleetwood is very light, and the suspension soft, but it still rides like a truck compared to my 70 Fleetwood, which is like riding on a cloud. The suspension in the Caprice (an 85) is firm and well contolled, but by no means harsh.
I think the last newer car I drove with truly smooth suspension, and easy steering, was the 1993-96 Cadillac Fleetwood. These cars are defineatly in the class of the traditional road eater. Smooth and comfortable with easy steering. But are they in no way the wallowing pigs that some of these old cars could be.
Mike
Densie,
One way to make the steering lighter is to increase the tyre pressure.
If the factory pressure is 26, increase the pressure up to 34. You will be surprised the difference in both steering and handling.
My 97 Ford Falcon has a factory specification of 26 psi, but I run them at 32, and when I am going on a long ru up the highway, I inflate them up to 34 or 36. But, you must be careful in wet weather with the higher pressures. If I am going to be fanging it, I will inflate to 40 psi, but then reduce the pressure to 32 for everyday driving.
I run the tyres on my 60 CDV at 30 to 34 with no problems.
The reason the manufacturers mention such a low pressure is so that the ride of the car will be soft for passenger comfort.
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
Gday, Bruce! Now that you mention it, my 77 Eldo has a rated pressure of 28 psi to 24 psi on all tires with two passengers(24 to 20 psi with 5 passengers)! I thought that was a bit low for such a heavy car (it is considerably heavier than 4000 lbs.). But what you say makes sense. I always run my cars, of any make, at 32 psi unless told to do differently. I wonder if I should go back to that? Hmmmm. Is it for ride alone? Or is there another reason they would tell the owner to set all tires to 27 psi?
Gods honest truth ... the 1960 Cadillac series 62 sedan was the smoothest, and nimblest car to drive. I could go all day in it without pain. I am hoping the 1956 is like that too. I hurt in the 1977 Eldorado, not because it is not comfortable but because the angle of the seat makes my wreck of a neck and back ache no matter how I adjust it. Still it is very nice on the road....handling, well its a bit of a pig but what the heck. Not that 60. I was won over to Cadillac by driving that car. I still remember my first ride in it. I was simply amazed at its comfort, and it was not in really good shape inside. Mechanically it was sound as a Euro (sorry guys but the dollar is slipping). Maybe I should have gone for a 1960 instead of the 1956. I hope not. The old 56 is just too beeautiful to me.
Mike,
I read up on the 94-96 Large GMs and it said the Fleetwood was build with a stiffer suspension that the Roadmaster and Caprice.
So, in one would want a soft riding car from that family, they should buy the Roadmaster.
David
...when you increase the tire pressure, you sacrifice the ride, which is not what Denise desires. She wants both.
Personally, I run the tires at near max. On my wifes 96 Concours, ususlly 40-44 psi. Her tires are 44 psi max tires. It makes the ride stiffer, but I get much better tire wear and handling.
I have never worn the centers out of my tires doing this on my cars, but I worn many outsides away following the manufacturers recommended pressure. They have it lower for rise purposes not wear or handling.
The Cadillac manual I believe says to run them at 32 psi (H-Rated tires), unless you are doing a lot of high speed driving, then you are supposed to run at the max pressure.
On my classic cars, the max pressure on my tires is 35 psi, I run them at 35 psi, not 26 psi or less as the Manufacturer suggests.
David
David,
Funny thing, but when I was recovering from a spinal operation back in 1976, the cost comfortable vehicles I found that I could travel in was my 55 Chevrolet Convertible, and works 1976 Ford F100 Styleside pickup. Even though those seats were non adjustable, apart from for and aft, they were superb. I could never get my 72 Eldo Coupe with the 6 way power seats to a similar level of comfort, no matter how I moved the switch.
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
I doubt that any reporter would waste his time on my story, but I would welcome your help in bending an ear at Lincoln/Mercury. Just dont spend too much of your time, because I really doubt that they will care. Im in the CLC directory, but in case you dont have one handy,
Denise McCracken
7342 E Toronto St
Tucson, AZ 85730
Email dmcrack@cox.net
I bought the car 10/26/04 from:
Jim Click Lincoln-Mercury, 1301 S Wilmot, Tucson, AZ
On 1/10/05, I took it back to Jim Clicks service department and told them that the power steering wasnt working right, it was too hard to steer. It groaned and tugged when it wasnt moving, and it seemed to get a little harder to steer as it warmed up. It felt like it had too much positive caster because the steering wheel snapped into the center and didnt want to turn.
That was a waste. I was charged $59 because the bumper-to-bumper warranty that I purchased didnt cover the charge for putting the car onto the wheel alignment rack. Their mechanic wrote "Unable to duplicate any abnormal steering effort check FEA (within specs) adjust caster to lowest setting."
I got a call from someone at Jim Click, I think his name was Bill, the next day, asking is I was satisfied with the service. I told him, no, I wasnt, the car still felt like it had no power steering. He said that their best front end tech had looked at it and found nothing wrong with it. Then he asked if I was going to bring the car back again, and I told him that I didnt see any point in doing that.
I emailed their service department from their website last week and asked if there was any way that they or a third party could repair or modify it so that I could steer it. I also asked for some simple technical data, the normal caster setting, and a little about how the speed-sensitive steering worked so that I could have a mechanic look into modifying it. They never answered me.
What I need is for the car to steer more easily. The steering wheel "snaps" into the center position and it takes a lot of effort to move it one way or the other. When the road banks or curves slightly, the strain of holding it on the road sends a pain up my side.
So why dont I just hold the wheel with both hands? The wheel isnt telescoping, and the column is much too short. By the time I move the seat back far enough to fit in the car, its a long reach. Even tilted all of the way down, it doesnt work. If you want to experience what Im talking about, try this...reach your hands out so that your arms are nearly fully extended, and raise your hands until they are above your shoulders. Feel the pressure on the muscles in your neck? Thats where my injury is. Try to relax your shoulders. You cant. I can drive the truck or the hearse with both hands on the wheel for hours, but not this car.
I think that most people, not realizing the condition I was in when I needed a car, are just going to say that I was stupid enough to buy it and I should just live with it, but if anyone has a good idea, Id rather hear that.
I did talk to a salesman today. He said that I might be happier with one of those little SUVs, and he pointed me to a website where I could get the trade-in value for my car, which turned out to be $15,500. I owe $27,400 on it. I feel well enough to go test-driving now, but I would have negative $12k for a down payment.
Tony and I talked over the idea of trying to get them to take the warranty and GAP insurance off and maybe settling for $10k to get rid of it, but that just didnt seem practical. Im probably just going to be stuck with the car.
-densie
Dear Densie,
One question.
(1) What was the test car like when you test drove the initial vehicle so you could eventually make the desision that you did?
(2) What was the car like when you first picked it up from the dealer?
(3) Has the steering got worse, or, heaven forbid, has your neck/shoulder problem gor worse?
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
And test drive a new one.
I get the impression it steered better when it was new.
If a new similar one steers easier they have an obligation to fix it if something is wrong with it.
Since the service manager asked if you would bring it back you should, call the factory zone rep, get some documentation if there is a problem.
I would assume the RWD platform rides smooth, we also assumed it would steer easier also as compared to FWD.
Apparently many here, (including myself) had never driven that car and ASSUMED the architecture of the vehicle would be the most comfortable based on your criteria. With all the police use I would expect it is durable and reliable, some people even weighed in with their satisfaction of high mileage ownership.
I cant imagine a Lincoln Town car is not smooth steering and riding, same platform.
I thought at one time you were satisfied with the vehicle.
Porter
Actually, I inflated the front tires up to the 40s, and it didnt make any difference in the steering effort. The car just seems to be deliberately made to be hard to steer.
Its interesting to watch the car commercials on television. They always try to make you feel that youre going to have some wonderful experience when you buy their car. When I was driving home from work today, my driving experience was like this:
Theres a sharp curve coming up in the road, I have to turn the steering wheel hard to the right and then back to the left just to get around it, its going to be hard to do, its going to hurt my neck and shoulder, and the car is going to fight me every inch of the way.
If I do nothing, Im going to jump over this curb and ram head-on into oncoming traffic, but what the hell, I purchased the GAP insurance, the car will be totalled and then paid for, and I wont have to worry about the $12,000 that I would have to pay just to give this lousy car back to the dealer and get rid of it right now.
And if I got injured or killed in the collision, I wouldnt have to get up and deal with all of the stress at work that is going to drive me insane tomorrow, and why am I going to work anyway, except to pay my student loans for the degree that I never finished, and to make the payments on this lousy sh*tbox that I cant stand to drive!!
But for some reason, I turn the wheel anyway...and wouldnt it be nice if that were a little easier to do?
-densie
Geez, Bruce, you sound like a lawyer. Im not trying to sue Mercury or anything, just looking for a way to make my car easier to steer. But Ill answer your questions anyway, just for the value of the story.
> What was the test car like when you test drove the initial vehicle so you could eventually make the desision that you did?
It wasnt the same car that I got. I drove a 2005, although I actually asked the salesman to do most of the driving. I really didnt feel like test driving a car at all, and I only drove it a couple of blocks. I was in a lot of pain, still freaked out over the accident, not ready to drive an unfamiliar car in and out of a dealership where there were cars moving around in a tight space. People had told me that a Grand Marquis would ride smoothly and steer easily, and all I wanted to do was buy one, go home and go to bed. The salesman ended up selling me a 2004 that I hadnt driven. He said that it was the same car as the 2005, only the dash looked a little different. As it turned out, he sold me an "LS Premium", and the car that I had test driven was an "LS Ultimate". Whether or not they steer any differently, I dont know.
> What was the car like when you first picked it up from the dealer?
I was taking a lot of pain medicine then, still in physical therapy treatment. I remember that I was happy to have a new car, I liked all of the bells and whistles, and the anti-lock brakes worked really well. I was proud to have a new car, but it didnt drive like the Deville did. I thought it was ironic that for the the first time in my life that I could afford a new car, there werent any cars that I wanted on the market anymore.
> Has the steering got worse, or, heaven forbid, has your neck/shoulder problem gor worse?
Funny that you should ask that, because I took some pain medicine the other day, and the car seemed easier to drive. Maybe what I need is not a car that is reasonably easy to steer, but enough narcotics that I dont care.
No, thats not the answer, is it? I remember when I was young and I used to enjoy a combustible euphoriac and a ride in the car, but a dose of pain medicine is not the same. When Im taking pain medicine, all I want to do is get home. If I have to take a heavy dose, I call for a ride because I dont want to drive at all. These days, a chance to drive a car that rides smoothly and steers easily IS a euphoric!
Hopefully I answered your questions...Im starting to get tired.
-densie
01-27-05
Denise, there is something wrong with your car! Sounds like you need to take it to an Independent Alignment Shop. One that can repair power steering systems.
Tell them that you just paid for an alignment and have them road test the car.
A co-worker had a ford econoline van that the ford garage couldnt/wouldnt fix. When the warrenty ran-out, he took it to an indepedent shop and they called to let him know that the factory had left out a part.
The ind. shop installed the part, problem gone!
Good Luck, Jim
Boy, if I was a laywer, I would still be working, rich, and knocking on your door, ready to take up your case.
But, alas, I am just a retired Police Officer, who has changed the term "Retirement" into "Getting a Life"
Now, it seems as though your physical condition "might" just be the cause of the problem. Have you tried steering the car with the hands at the bottom of the wheel? Not the correct position, but just a suggestion
With power steering, one should be able to steer with one finger, and at the most, one hand.
Seeing as you dont want to be too drugged up when tackleing the highways and byways, I would recommend having a talk to the a Power Steering specialist shop and getting their opinion on replacing the internal valving in the pump to increase the line pressure. The Circuit racing or Nascar guys might be doing something to increase pressure, you never know.
The next thing is going to take a bit of a chat to the dealer....explain the problems you are having....have an independent test drive both your car, and an identical one supplied by the dealer, in order to standardise parameters, and observe the results....then, if the both cars are the same....talk to the Lincoln Dealer, with an aim to getting some sort of authorisation to enable the Power Steering shop to perform the modifications, at your own cost, so that the vehicle warranty is not voided.
Doing it this way, and if it works, the Dealer should be very happy to assist in any way he or she can.....They will have a satisfied customer....They will have a thing to tell home office that may assist others who find the steering hard.....and, best of all, you will not have to take as many drugs.
Now, the way you tested and purchased the car, is not the ideal way, which you actually know, but as you were apprehensive about actually reiving it after your accident, I can understand.
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le), and Hot Rodder,
60 CDV
I still think that the biggest problem is the steering ratio, 2.5 turns lock to lock. Ive done a lot of reading about steering systems, in general, lately, and Ive found that slop of an inch or more in the steering is cause for concern. With this car, movement of a fraction of an inch is enough to cause the car to run off of the road.
Also, I read that there is a torque tube in the rack that opens the valve to let the fluid pressure in only when a certain amount of torque is actually applied to the rack. This tells me that there isnt any way to loosen up the rack and increase the boost...its only going to happen when you actually apply the effort to the wheels.
However, I found that the SST connector applies 14v to the steering box when the vehicle is not in motion. If you unplug the connector, it becomes more difficult to steer. This makes me think that the voltage gets cut when the speed is increased, which, as is advertised, gives you that wonderful "road feel". So, why not apply 14v to that connector all of the time, so that the steering boost would not be reduced as the car speeds up? Or maybe I could use an ammeter to find out how much current the rack draws, and what resistance might be needed to put in a knob that controls the steering boost. Mount a pot in the dash with a scale that indicates how much boost has been selected. Maybe Mercury would buy the idea. They could market it like the old "six positions of tilt wheel" ad. Maybe graduate it from:
"Upper body workout"
"18-wheel trucker"
"MG Midget"
"Country Sedan"
"Crippled Old Lady"
"Denise"
Yeah, thats the ticket.
Another idea, put in a torque multiplier, like you put between a torque wrench and socket, that doubles the torque put to the linkage, but give the steering twice as many turns, which would be 5 turns lock-to-lock, which is what cars are supposed to have.
One more plan, supposedly its illegal for me to take out the steering wheel that has the stupid air bag and replace it with one that doesnt, but I cant think of any reason why I couldnt fabricate a larger steering wheel that just attaches around the outside of the existing one.
The thing about all of these ideas is that every one of them is easier to do than trying to find someone at Ford who actually cares. I called the dealership again and they said that they might be able to look at it Monday. I wrote a nice letter to Mercury, but I will be surprised if they respond.
I work for a large, international corporation, and I once spent hours bebugging a program that caused a prompt "terminal type" to be displayed when a user logged in, with a default value so that all they had to do was press the ENTER key. That was too much for them. They didnt want have to press ENTER to get into an application. The issue was caused by the database and had nothing to do with our application. I didnt have time to screw around with something like that, but I researched it and fixed it for them anyway, because we do whatever we have to to please our customers. Contrast that to the mechanic at the dealership who was told that someone was in pain and had trouble turning the steering wheel, and charged me $59 to say that nothing was wrong with it. Our company is hundreds of times larger than their dealership, but well bend over backwards to help someone, and not charge them a dime.
Doing business with a new car dealer is no different than taking an old car to a shop. I thought that it might be, but it isnt. If I want something done to my car, correctly, and up to the spec that I request, I just have to do it myself.
And thats probably what I will end up doing.
-densie
Densie,
Silly me......I am still in the land of Power Steering Boxes, ha ha.
I have always had a problem with rack and pinion steering systems but the manufacturers like them as they are cheaper to utilise in the designing of the car.
But, that doesnt solve your problem.
But, and, this is a simply stupid idea, and good for a few laughs, but a "T" Model Ford Steering Wheel, would solve the problem, but you would probably end up with around 15 turns lock to lock.
But, (I like that word), the idea of keeping the 14 volts attached all the time might work. I am not conversant with these new-fangled automotive gismoes.
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
01-28-05
Densie,in your post of 01-27-05 @ 21:46 hrs (9:46 PM), you stated that the PS unit was "Groane and tugge", sure sounds to me like the car has a problem.
There are a couple of things that you can do that might result in help comming your way.
1. Keep copies of the service done.(Under warrenty or not)Never can tell when you may need them.
2. Notify NSTB of the problem that you are having,(dont say anything about your accident or how bad you hurt, just facts about the problem) about the groaning and tugging. (you can find them on the web)
3. The dealer Should Have given you a copy of the AZ "Leamon Law". (if not, its on the web)
Good Luck, Jim
P.S. I know that jumping through the hoops can be a real pain in the north side, if you are facing south, but its hoops that you have to jump.
I took it back to the dealer again today, and they still insist that there is nothing wrong with it. I actually went for a ride in it with a mechanic there that I knew, and he says that its supposed to moan and groan and shake when youre parking it, and the steering wheel is supposed to snap into the center and be difficult to deflect. Its "made to be more precise than previous models", he said. So, theyre probably not lying to me, and I probably just screwed up and bought a piece of cr*p. Lesson learned the hard way. I would never have believed that the top-of-the-line American-made Mercury would have been degraded into such a piece of garbage, but thats the way it goes.
The car is still sitting there. I just left them the key and told them that I didnt have any use for it. I dont even want to see it in my driveway today.
Eventually I have to think about what to do with it, and I think Im going to modify it. Take a bad situation and make it into a fun project, maybe? Whatever results, it cant be as bad as dropping it back on the lot and losing thousands of dollars.
-densie
Densie,
I dont suppose it is possible to retrofit a steering rack out of an earlier model, that is, one from a PMS, (Pre Moaning Steering) car?
Bruce,
The Tassie Devil(le),
60 CDV
Highlights for 2003
A "hot rod" Marauder model and optional front side airbags keynote Mercurys updated rear-wheel-drive full-size sedan for 2003. Grand Marquis shares its design with Fords Crown Victoria, though Crown Vic has no Marauder counterpart. These are among the few remaining body-on-frame automobiles, and the 03 versions aim for better ride and handling with a revamped chassis and a change in steering from recirculating-ball to speed-sensitive rack-and-pinion. Subtle modifications to nose and tail, plus new wheel designs are styling changes. Front side airbags are newly available. ABS and traction control continue as standard. All Gran Marquis have a 4.6-liter V8 and 4-speed automatic transmission. GS and LS models have 224 hp. An optional LS Handling Package added midyear includes dual exhausts for 239 hp. Marauder has a twincam 4.6 with 302 hp. Marauder also has a sport suspension, monotone exterior appearance, and 18-inch alloy wheels vs. 16s on other models. It comes with front bucket seats, center console, and floor shift. Other models have a front bench seat. All but the base GS have standard power-adjustable pedals. Also sharing this basic design and its 2003 revamp is the Lincoln Town Car. Grand Marquis performance and accommodations mirror those of similarly equipped Crown Victorias.
Maybe you should try a 2002 model with the antique steering design.
HTH
Porter
Im inclined to agree with the dealer technician here; the car is most likely performing as designed by FoMoCo. One thing we at the dealer are told (Im a Ford technician myself) is that we dont redesign vehicles in the field. Unless Ford has some sort of kit for sale to modify the car, it wont be done at the dealer level. One common complaint about the older Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car was the imprecise steering and mushy handling. Ford corrected this for 2003 with the rack and pinion steering gear and suspension changes. Unfortunately for you, this changed the car in a way you (and Im sure many others) didnt like. Its a shame, too since these cars are the ones we virtually never see come in for service because nothing ever seems to break!
I dont think there is any new or late model car out there that has fingertip power steering anymore. That only leaves one with choices like 1973 Buicks and such. The only downsides are high fuel cost and upkeep, and that can be a real problem. Until the buying public at large moves out of the Eurasian "sport sedans", the American makers will try to copy their ride and drive, and we all know what that means.
Densie,
Ive been following your thread hoping you would find an answer& Im sure we all share in the thought of a speedy & full recovery.
Im reminded of a situation (way) back in 1957. My dad had just bought a brand new Dodge wagon. One with the (then) cool black & yellow paint job. As memory serves it only took a few months for problems to start popping up. First one thing & then another. It got to the point the car was in the shop more than on the road.
When dear old dad asked for a different car or some other resolution to this delema, Mr. dealers answer was basically,"You bought it, you own it!"
Being a,"Dont get mad, get even" sort, good old dad took the wagon home, stopping on the way at the local lumberyard.
That weekend he showed up at the dealership with a 4x8 sign tied to the top of the wagon. It had a huge lemon in the center & the words," I bought this lemon from Spitzer Dodge." He then spent the day driving back & forth in front of the dealership. After 2 days of this & a little local TV coverage, Mr. dealer got dad into the office & asked what it would take to stop the parade.
He ended up having to buy back dads Chevy trade-in & cough up every penny he paid for the Dodge + the money he spent on the sign.
He then went out & bought a new 57 Chevy & swore he would never again own anything but a bowtie.
Not sure this is the answer to your problem but maybe you got a smile from it.
Good Luck, Al
Thats a good idea. Then Ill take it back to the dealer and tell them that its too easy to steer and I dont get enough road feel.
"Geez, I hit a big pothole and the steering wheel didnt even try to jump out of my hand. Whats wrong with this car?"
-densie
It means that were back to the 1970s, when American carmakers started trying to build Japanese cars, and nearly drove themselves into bankruptcy. Who can build Japanese cars better than the Japanese? Who can build European sport sedans better than the Europeans?
As a Ford tech, do you know if the pre-2003 steering box can be retrofitted to the 2004? I looked underneath it and the front crossmember looks like an enormous aluminum thing, so it doesnt look encouraging, but that would be the best way to fix it.
-densie
Unfortunately, the frame was redesigned to accept the new front suspension. The aluminum #2 crossmember is bolt-on on your car, but is a welded in steel member on the previous models. Its not just the rack and pinion that makes a car "hard" to steer; its a combination of design features like increased caster angles, wider tires, variable assist power steering (VAPS), all designed for that BMW type driving feel, and which increase sport car-type handling and performance at the expense of creature comfort and ease of steering. If you want to experience poor power assist with a old-style steering gear, drive a late-model F-250 or 350 with a diesel engine. Itll make your Grand Marquis feel like a 70s car in comparison. Your idea of tying the VAPS solenoid to voltage to provide full assist is a valid idea, but will not increase low speed assist as the system is designed to provide that already. It merely decreases assist at higher speeds. The problem is the car was designed to perform the way it does, and the only thing left is to find a car that suits your preferences. I wish I could tell you different, but I cant. Short of replacing the entire frame with an older model, its not doable. And yes, modern car ride and drive isnt something Im totally fond of either. I just dont understand why American cars cant have their own identity instead of trying to be a copycat BMW, Lexus, Honda, etc. The auto enthusiast rags have a lot to do with this, but thats a different subject...
Now, its also possible the VAPS system is malfunctioning and the technician didnt take the time to check it out. However, Im an engine/manual trans/differential specialist, and thats a bit out of my area of expertise. Its possible to use a Ford scan tool while driving the car to verify proper VAPS function. Also, there are tools designed to test the steering pump output and be sure the pump is performing correctly. Id also find out what work was actually performed, or did the tech just drive the car and say it was normal?
I think that he at least plugged something into it. There are some initials representing tests on the form that he gave me. I dont have it with me right now or I would read them, but Im fairly certain that theyve done all theyre going to do (at least, under warranty coverage).
I do have more ideas. I have in mind a very simple device that attaches to the steering wheel and assists steering on fairly straight roads, but moves itself completely out of your way when the wheel has to be turned more than a few degrees. Im not going to post a picture of it yet, because I may actually be able to patent it.
Then the car has a rubber coupling under the dash, and a sliding tube, that connect the steering column to the linkage under the hood. There is plenty of room in there to install a torque multiplier, if I can come up with one. I noticed that the planetary gearests that come in these cheap winches are just about the right size and ratio to build one out of. Ill try to remember to disable the airbag before I screw around with the column. ;)
So, I have lots of ideas and information here, which is why I created a post about a Ford, and Im sure that I can come up with something to solve the problem. In the meantime, Im going to go and ask a question about a Cadillac.
Thanks to all
-densie
BTW, the PMS joke went right over my head.
With the old type steering.
I know you bought new but surely they have nice low mileage trade ins, maybe they could set you up for a swap of some sort under the circumstance if the 2002 is acceptable or even more desirable.
A good low mileage 2002 is the same as a 2004 in 2006 with low mileage.
Seems like they have turned the car into a fullsize law enforcement Euro type RWD.
Believe it or not, or according to the auto pundits yours is better or more desirable.
Just a thought,
Porter