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194760S

Started by cay30ford, August 21, 2011, 08:58:56 PM

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cay30ford

I have been restoring this car for the last 15 years and I am finally about done.  But I have one issue I can't overcome.  It is hard to start.  I have the 6 volt battery at peak change (I leave a trickle charger on it) and it barley turns the engine. The engine is completely redone with about 10 miles on it since rebuild.  I tried a 900 amp Optima and it helps a little. My question is " Is the starting system supposed to be this bad?"..  I have a Model A with a 6 volt system and it cranks over great.  I do now its a much larger engine but am I missing something?

Art C :-

pauldridge

Art,

Frequently newly rebuilt engines are quite tight, which may be causing greater than normal friction and resistance to the starter.  I'd make sure you have a good solid ground connection from the battery (perhaps run a cable right to one of the starter bolts, then take it for a good 100-200 mile run, I'll bet your starting issues will disappear.
Phil Auldridge
Austin, TX
1940 60S as well as MGA, Stingray, '39 Ford Coupe, BMW 3.0 CS, '59 Jaguar, '51 Hudson Hornet, '64 and '70 Mercedes roadsters, and Nash-Healey LeMans Coupe
[img]http://www.auldridge.org/images/hdricon.jpg[/img]

Jay Friedman

I would make also sure that there is minimal electrical resistance in the starting circuit, which is of particular importance in a 6 volt system.  I did the following to my '49 OHV engine which was having the same problem after rebuilding:

1.  Make sure all ground points are free of paint.   These include the surfaces between the starter, its attaching bolts and the flywheel housing as well as the two threaded holes in the back of the cylinder heads and the surfaces on the firewall where the 2 small ground straps are attached;

2.  Get an extra-thick positive battery cable.  I had mine made up from 600 volt welding cable.  Make sure the surface where the negative cable bolts to the frame is free of paint and / or dirt.

I also had my starter rebuilt with heavy duty field coils. 
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."

cay30ford

Thanks for the suggestion. I will go to work on them...

Art C

CRAIG LEWIS

Had similar problem and found that the starter selenoid was kicking the bendix out too far and it was binding a bit. check the adjustment on the starter drive as it engages flywheel. You may need to back it off a bit.

cadillacman

Quote from: Jay Friedman on August 22, 2011, 06:41:56 AM
I would make also sure that there is minimal electrical resistance in the starting circuit, which is of particular importance in a 6 volt system.  I did the following to my '49 OHV engine which was having the same problem after rebuilding:

1.  Make sure all ground points are free of paint.   These include the surfaces between the starter, its attaching bolts and the flywheel housing as well as the two threaded holes in the back of the cylinder heads and the surfaces on the firewall where the 2 small ground straps are attached;

2.  Get an extra-thick positive battery cable.  I had mine made up from 600 volt welding cable.  Make sure the surface where the negative cable bolts to the frame is free of paint and / or dirt.

I also had my starter rebuilt with heavy duty field coils. 

I rebuilt my 49 last year and had the same problems and i did all the above too. I was always having to jump start the car from a 12volt one, at first i thought it was just due to the engine being tight etc.
the cables are important part when i changed mine they were twice the size of 12v one's .
Living in the UK and i went to a John Dee service center  they only cost £20.00.

Had the starter rebuilt and fitted an optima 6v battery it turns over and sounds like a 12v now, and had no problems since.
Its could be over kill but there is nothing worse than not being able to start the car when its time to go.

Chrome is my favorite color!

Jay Friedman

I agree, particularly when there are folks standing around admiring your Cad.

Jay
1949 Cadillac 6107 Club Coupe
1932 Ford V8 Phaeton (restored, not a rod).  Sold
Decatur, Georgia
CLC # 3210, since 1984
"If it won't work, get a bigger hammer."