Hydroelectric Full Restoration

[Joe V]

It has been a while since I posted primarily because I have been in an epic battle with my hydraulic pump.  Actually pumps.

I fully rebuilt two pumps and for the past many weeks I have not been able to get any decent pressure out of them.  The most I could achieve was 75 psi, no where near the 250 psi required. 

After rebuilding the second pump and achieving the exact same pitiful pressure, I figured it had to be something I was doing wrong as I did not have a complete pump to examine at the start.  So I took apart the pump section on the bench and spent a few evenings pouring over the parts to figure out how it worked.  After 5 or 6 pump and motor adjustments and part redos that did nothing to increase the pressure, I realized that the center compression gear was not being pressed down so fluid would be able to pass over to the input side of the pump eliminating all possibility for pressure to build up.  So withthat enlightenment, I realized that the spyder spring was upside down. 

That simple mistake cost a month of pump fiddling, but I now have two working pumps and finally the joy of seeing the top cylinders go up.  That was a good night that made learning the hard way all worth while.  My wife thought I was nuts when she saw me dancing in the driveway.

So now thing are moving forward again.  Here is the installed rebuilt pump, top cylinders and picture of sypder spring sitting correctly on the gear cap for any other poor souls that need to learn the hard way.

[Joe V]

With the pump, pumping, I moved ahead with installation of the second wiring harness that connects all window switches, pump, top control valve, and window cylinders.  It follows the same path as the rear hydraulic lines.  I was happy to get it in finally as it completes all wiring.  Man that stuff is not inexpensive!

I also started to reassemble the doors mechanisms, plumbing and run the harness to the door.  I still have some work installing new window run channels, but I will work the windows after I see all hydraulics working with no leaks. 

It took me awhile to settle on type of paint and sound proofing for inside of the doors but that is now done.

[Joe V]

Hydro system restoration continues after a long hiatus.  Even though my rebuilt pump was pumping and raising and lowering the disconnected top cylinders, once it was put under stress (spring tension on the door cylinder), fluid pressure would drop and the pump would not work.  Finally broke down and sent the pump in for testing only to find out it was unusable.

Two pump rebuilds and send offs for testing later, and I'm told I have a pump that will maintain 250 psi.  So, work finally continues with new pump in, all wiring complete, and remaining switches rebuilt.

I decided not to test the pump until everything except the glass is installed, connected and wired.  My thought process here is that when the pump went down, all work stopped as I searched for rebuilt and sent pumps off for testing.  So if this pump is also bad, there is less risk of stoppage.

[harry s]

Joe, I ran into the same problem. After cleaning the pump and installing with all the systems hooked up (less window glass and top frame) the pressure in the system was 160. My hiatus has almost turned into abandonment but the next move will be to try and adjust the pressure by adding washers with the hope of getting up near 250. Who did you use for testing and repair? Thanks,    Harry

[Joe V]

Harry, I had no luck with adjusting the washers on mine.  After rebuilding two pumps and fighting them both for months, I sent them to Hydro-E-Lelectric in Punta Gorda for a free assessment.  Here is what they found that I would have never figured out -

Pump 1 - Unusable because the channel on the pump section that the armature shaft goes through to attach to the pump gears was slightly worn and allowed air to pass through and kill the pressure.  Apparently the new shaft oil seal that comes in the kit is not an effective air seal once the pressure goes up and it starts sucking air in through it.  Told me they very seldom run into this problem.

Pump 2 - Bad armature.  Although my tests showed it was OK and it ran at what appeared to be an acceptable rpm, it was bad.  They put a used armature in and said it runs like a champ at 250psi. 

A few things, which you probably already worked through, that kill pressure are:
1) corroded armature for same reasons as Pump 1 above
2) weak spider spring, those gears need to be tight against the port washer
3) slightly enlarged armature shaft hole in the port washer

They told me they check the pump by running it over tupperware with water.  If it looks like a churning milkshake you have some kind of an air leak.

Can't say I'm out of the woods until I see it run and pump.

[harry s]

Joe, That is good info to know, thanks. I'm slowly working my way back to that project and if a solution doesn't jump out at me I will send it to Hydro. I've talked to them before and they are super helpful.    Harry