Some of you may know but recently the HP hose on my power steering / brakes burst .... what a mess!
Anyway, the new hose turned up today and I`ve fitted it. This is my plan to bleed the system and what I`m asking is ... please correct me where I`m wrong.
1. Jack the car up so wheels are off the ground
2. Put D2 fluid into the tank up to the "min" mark
3. Turn wheel several times to bleed, with the cap off, and keep checking the level
4. Once I feel the fluid had settled, start the car and carry on turning the wheel with the cap off?
5. Continue doing this until it appears all air is out and there are no untoward sounds.
6. Ensure the fluid level is then topped up to the "max" and lower back onto the ground.
What do I need to do to the brakes .... I think they should be ok as they are?
I`m not a mechanic, and would be please if you put me right, if I`m wrong.
Many thanks, Steve.
There is no MAX level for the power steering reservoir. There is only a level for cold fluid and level for hot fluid. After the initial bleeding, you should check the level after the next few drive cycle as some small bubbles will still be purged.
I don't remember what the official process is but what I have done is more or less what you describe. Getting the wheels off the ground really helps speed up the process. I always have the cap at least loosely on because especially at first the fluid tends to really foam up and you don't want more fluid spraying around after you just got things cleaned up.
After the steering starts to smooth out I cycle the brakes a few times then back to the steering. If the accumulator still works on the brakes you need to bleed that too. To test/bleed that shut the engine off and press the brakes. Its supposed to have a pressure reserve so you get a couple power brake applications without the engine running. If you do get some power that way that empties the accumulator so next time you start it should refill with clean fluid.
Last one I did it took about 15 minutes including some long pauses to let things settle. If you do a few cycles and its not improving and the fluid level is fine just shut it down and wait like 5 minutes for the air to do its own thing. Then start it up and try again. After it seemed to get pretty smooth I then did some driving and rechecked the fluid level the next morning.
Job done!! thanks guys. It seemed remarkably easy? I didn`t lift the car up as I was parked on an uneven surface so I thought I`d try without. Been for a drive, checked fluid again and seems OK. I`ll keep an eye on it for the next few drives.
Thank you again, Steve.
Power steering bleeding is just like brakes. You could have 2 identical cars and make identical repairs on each. One will bleed with hardly any effort at all, the other will require every trick and tool in the book and still not be 100% perfect.
That is Hydro Boost, right? Like my diesel cars. I don't wait for
pressure hoses to break, I replace them about every 2 decades.
Bruce Roe
Bruce, how do you keep track of all the parts, when they were installed etc.? Do you put date of installation on them or do you keep a written log, or ….. ?
Just curious.
Quote from: Glen
Bruce, how do you keep track of all the parts, when they were installed etc.? Do
you put date of installation on them or do you keep a written log, or ….. ?
Just curious.
Glen, I have a little notebook in each glove compartment, in which I write
mileage and gas. Anything like oil change, water pump, radiator hoses,
brakes go in by current condition, or replacement, which is by miles for
wear parts or by date for aging (hose) parts. There are also as many
rebuilt alternators on the shelf as in the cars, each with an identifying
stamp and a card filed showing dates, miles, current status. I tend to run
each rebuilt for a while as a test, then put in the next one, so infant fatalities
won't surprise me. Same for HEI, rebuilt trans, etc. My 5 cars all use the
same engine, transmission, and accessories. I HATE FAILURES. Bruce
That the way to do it. I don't but I always say I am going to start. It becomes really important the more cars you have and the longer you have them. Your age and other distractions also has a lot to do with it. I just had a brake failure on a car that I know I rebuilt the brake system on when I bought it..... which was over 20 years ago now. Having similar cars contributes to the confusion too like I know I replaced that dodad on one of the 3 Suburbans I have owned in the last 2 years.
76-78 Eldo had standard 4 wheel disc with hydroboost. Not sure why. It was also standard on the Seville and Fleetwood, not sure if those got the hydro or if they were vacuum.
At least the newer brake systems are more forgiving of failures, than the
old single circuits. The brake system on my 79 Eldo has been completely
overhauled TWICE, 100% of the lines have been replaced with non
corroding metal (as has the exhaust). You need to keep the records and
do the maintenance for the old cars to be reliable transportation.
The 82 I drove today is on the low side here at 230,000 miles, has been to
Canada, Florida, New Hampshire, and California in recent times without
incident. Bruce Roe
Thanks Bruce, Very good system. I keep planning to write down things like that because I am so forgetful. The problem is I forget to start. :)
I know the feeling.
I started to keep notes in a filing system of my servicing, but that didn't last too long.
My late model car (1997) tells me every 10,000 K, with a light that comes up on the dash.
My other cars get done when I think they need doing, like before a trip to a rally on the mainland every 2 years.
Bruce. >:D