Painting a flathead and clear coat?

[gary griffin]

Ijust dropped my engine off at the place it will be rebuilt along with a quart of engine green from Hirsh. They showed me a recently completed Dodge engine compartment and all of the finishes were clear coated in Hi Temp clear coat. I probably wont do it as it looks kind of flashy and non authentic but it did look very nice. Any comments??

[buicksplus]

I have painted two flatheads with the Hirsh product, it looks great as it lies.  I would not recommend clear coating.  The wet look you get with clear coats does not look very appealing on a sandcast flathead engine.

Anything that adds thickness to the paint, such as a clear coat, will reduce its ability to hold up to the heat around the engine.  For that reason, I don't use primer on engines either.  Just degrease, clean, etch, and spray just enough to cover the castings.  The result looks original and will last for years if you keep it reasonably clean.

Bill.

[P W Allen CLC# 20193]

I agree with Bill. That Hirsh engine enamel holds up very well. I used it on my 53 back in 2003 and it still looks very good. I didn't use primer either. Great adhesion on clean cast iron. I use those foam disposable brushes for that, and use the spray cans for the valley and valve covers.

[48ragtop]

In keeping with this discussion I'd like to freshen the paint on my engine (1948 Flathead) using the same Hirsch paint.  However, I don't plan any rebuild as my engine runs fine.   Is painting in the engine compartment feasible?   Maybe just the heads and other easily visible components?   Cleaning and prep may be the biggest challenge.   

I know that this is not the best way to do this but it would make a better looking motor and avoid removing the engine simply to paint.

Thanks for your suggestions and opinions.

Ed Wisniewski
CLC No. 26482

[buicksplus]

Ed:

I've had reasonable luck painting engines in place.  You can certainly freshen the parts that are obviously visible like the cylinder heads. 

Some modest disassembly, like removing the manifolds, generator, fan, gives a better result.   

Some hot rodder told me a trick: use aluminum foil to mask off hoses, wires, rods, etc.  These items are difficult to mask with tape and removing the tape later on is a bear.  Foil is much easier to squeeze on and peel off.  Proper masking of the non-engine areas is essential.  Overspray onto non-engine parts is really ugly and tells everyone you're not the factory.

Don't be afraid to use a paint brush in those deep, hard to reach areas.  It is very hard to see the brush strokes and spraying into those tight areas doesn't work well.

I have found the new cheap spray on degreasers at auto parts stores to be amazingly effective at removing grease from old cars.  Using the degreasers along with scrapers and small wire brushes or toothbrushes works really well and cleans up great with a spray from a hose nozzle.

Good luck!

[48ragtop]

Bill:

Thanks very much for the reply.  Great tip, using the aluminum foil.   I really like that idea, simple and effective.

I'll give it a try.

Much appreciated.

Ed Wisniewski
CLC No. 26482

[Richardonly]

Hello,
Here are a few photos of my engine which I painted with a brush, and using oil based paint, no brush marks are visable as it takes so long to dry, the paint smooths out.  It also avoids any overspray and reaches all hard to get spots.
I matched the color to the water pump which is untouched, at the local paint store.
Perhaps a bit unusual, but I am pleased with the results and usually leave the hood open to view the engine, and air conditioning at the NERCLC shows. It has never been questioned as to it's originality.  Then again, it is not a 10 point car.
I used California Paint DEA176.
It is considered a survivor with 29,000 miles on it.   
The air was installed in 1951 when it supposedly became available, and is still ice cold today.
Best of luck with your 48 ragtop!
Richard