For those of you who like to watch projects, here are some pictures, commentary and technical stuff on the resto of my 1940 LaSalle convertible coupe. The first picture is the way she was in the barn when I got her in June of 2010.
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Here are the scans of my 1940 LaSalle operating hints manual - http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20LaSalle%20Operating%20Hints%20Manual/
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I have just finished scanning my original catalog of color chips and color combinations for 1934 to 1941 Cadillac & LaSalle. They are available for viewing at the link below. The colors of the chips with the scans are not accurate. If anybody needs I can loan out the page they need. The actual colors of the original chips are very good for matching. I hope this info will help. There is also a page that shows the interior combinations for 1941. I know there are other pages with these same scans, but I have a couple they do not.
http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/34-41%20Cadillac%20LaSalle%20paint%20chips%20color%20combos/?start=all
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The following link are the scans of my complete 1940 Cadillac-LaSalle serviceman and fisher body service bulletins for 1940. There are 2 index pages for the serviceman bulletins to quickly find a topic.
http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20serviceman%20and%20fisher%20body%20service%20bulletins/?start=all
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Here is a link to a page of all my pictures I am taking of this LaSalle as it is restored - http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii230/silamanajik/1940%20LaSalle/?albumview=slideshow#/grid
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Below is a list of parts I am using that you can get at your local parts store. I will update this list as I keep getting parts.
7lb radiator cap - stant #10206
front sway bar link kit - moog # k8265
brake stop switch - standard brand #sls24
rear end stabilizer bushings - steele #70-0406-33
fan belt - gates - 44411
generator belt - gates tr28483
2 7/8" pinion seal - C/R # 18688
rear differential carrier gasket - best gasket #10113e
front wheel spindle seal - SKF #18772
Rear wheel axle seal - SKF # 15761
Transmission gasket set - best gasket #8105
Water pump rebuild kit - EGGE WS-63
Rear transmission seal - National 473228
Brake lines and handbrake cables - inline tube
After we had the frame straightened we stripped and cleaned the chassis and suspension and finished painting the chassis last night.
Looks good Jim! What's taking you so long??
;D
Geoff N.
I love to follow these. I cant believe what a couple of other guys are doing on there cars. Man , its a lot of work.
Roy
Well I got into the motor and found out it is the original matching numbers motor. It needs some help though, it has already been bored to 346 and needs one of the cylinders sleeved because of some severe corrosion. It also needs the top of the block decked because the heat riser area is worn away and there is not enough left to seal with a gasket. Lucky for me I have 2 stock 322 motors that will work as long as one of them has no cracks. I think I will just bag the original block and put it away for safe keeping. Something interesting I did find out was that this motor was a 346, had a 3/4 cam and solid lifters with a big stromberg on it. Apparently it used to be a streetracer back in the late 40' - early 50's. It was painted bright yellow and was giving the Olds rockets a run for their money.
That sure is some heavy rust in that bore Jim, much like all the cars I get to do.
The body will stay just like it is with the black lacquer that was put on in 1969 until next winter when we do the body. The car is almost rust free and I want to enjoy it this year before the snow sets in. So we are going to do everything but the body for right now. I will just take a weekend and put the body back on it and drive it. As for the color combo I am not sure yet. It will be either the way it came from the factory - longkey green with red leather and tan top, or black body and top with red interior and wheels.
I got tired of sandblasting outside in the sun making a mess so I got myself a new toy. This makes it much easier.
It takes up allot of room when you tear apart cars!
Just stripped a bunch of small stuff in the new blast cabinet and got them coated with epoxy primer.
Here are some old pics of my car, the son of the guy I bought it from just sent me. The first one is when it had the paintbrush applied "racing" yellow paint job. The other 2 are after he had a black laquer job done on it.
Now, that is what I call a good-sized workshop.
Better move the ladder before you trip over it.
Bruce. >:D
It is actually an old chevrolet dealership building that was built in 1948. It is 11,000 sq. ft. and built like a tank. I bought it and run my business out of it. The corner where the LaSalle is at is where we do all our restorations. The rest of the shop is dedicated to making money so we can play with our old cars. Most all the old employees of the chevy dealership come in on a regular basis and tell us stories and bring us old parts and memorabilia they have laying around of when they used to work here. They did sales, service and had a body shop in this building.
What business are you in?
I own a detailing and paintless dent removal shop. We do allot of other things here too including painting and classic cars. I get to play with cars all day. Can't beat it.
Just got my motor back, had to bore it .040" ,it had .020 taper in the cylinder walls. All new goodies inside too. Can't wait to put it together!
Jim,
From the first photo it looks like you did not switch to Stainless Steel Valves. Don't know if you've read Walt Brewer's series of articles about rebuilding the Cad/Lasalle Flathead, but he rather emphatically recommended switching to SS valves due to unleaded fuel. Did you or your re-builder have an opinion on this? My LaSalle engine is still only partially assembled, but when I did the major work (about 35 years ago) I just used the standard valves. Unleaded was optional at that time, so it wasn't an issue.
As I've mentioned before in a previous post under Technical & Authenticity, I wonder if it is really necessary to change out the intake valve as it operates at a lower temperature. Anyhow, I'd like to hear your take on this issue.
Mark Lowery, CLC #25216
Actually I run high octane fuel and TEL additive in my classic motors so I dont have the unleaded ethanol fuel problems with the internals or vapor lock.
Jim,
Well, an interesting solution to a vexing problem, but unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to emulate your practice. When I get done w/ my restoration (if I live long enough!) I want to be able to take it on some fairly long runs, and I don't think I can give her a steady diet of AV gas. Plus, I can't imagine that TELead will be available indefinitely. I too don't want to do things twice, so that's why I'm trying to get to the bottom of the SS Valve issue, particularly the intakes.
BTW, are you going to use a stock cam, or are you reconditioning the 3/4 cam that was in the original 322?
Mark Lowery CLC# 25216
I put a stock profile cam in, the previous owner told me the 3/4 cam and solid lifters made for a noisy motor. I am not planning on doing any racing with it so I figured the stocker was the way to go.
There is no way that engine is going to have enough compression and run anywhere near the conditions that would require SS valves or leaded gas.
Thats what I thought too about the SS valves but the TEL helps if you have ethanol in your gas.
Just got my new stainless brake lines and my stainless reproduction handbrake cables from inline tube. They did a very nice job on making the new handbrake cables, they are perfect. The stainless hard lines are an exact fit also. They had a quick turnaround time, about 3 weeks and were very good to work with. I would definitely recommend them.
More pics
Jim,
You've solved a huge problem for me. I didn't have any idea where to turn for reproduction brake cables.
A couple of questions : Do they reuse any of the original hardware? Is there any one in particular that you dealt w/ at In-line tube? I'd almost want to ask them for another set just like yours, except my car is the 4-door version, and a 37 rather than a 40, so I bet the length is different (longer, no doubt).
Anyhow, mine are a rusty mess, and I will want new and this fits the bill.
Mark Lowery, CLC#25216
Mark,
I dealt with a guy named Don at Inline Tube, 1-800-385-9452, he was very helpful and stayed on top of things. I sent them the rusty originals I had and they copied them and used stainless cable so it will never rust. It cost a little under $200 with shipping both ways for the 3 cables but they do a great job, it is worth it. They used some of the original hardware but they sandblast it and repaint the pieces so they look new. My car is a 123" wheelbase but I would send in your originals for a correct copy.
Hello Jim. Words cannot express my appreciation for your unselfishness in sharing your adventure with our club. Your car is shaping up to be a model for the rest of us to emulate. The challenges that a restoration present can range from the joy of a CLC Grand National award to early balding. It must be fantastic to participate in a livelihood that brings so much beauty and personal satisfaction. You are an asset to our organization. I wish I could go to work to have fun transforming my car to resemble its original Fort street condition. I have the last LaSalle C4D from 1939. I have an advisor/mentor Matt Larson and buddy named Gerry Karasinski, who recently did a magnificent restoration job on a 1941Cadillac 6267D CCP. I took the easy way out since I'm already bald.
Jim,
I had a good time at your shop this morning. Thanks for showing me around, and the work that you are doing. See you out this summer. Gary H. - 39 Cad
In the process of doing my rear differential I found this info on replacing the pinion seal that I believe was written by Brad Ipsen:
Removal and Installation of Rear Axle Pinion Oil Seal â€" 1937 to 1952
1. Drain oil from the rear axle.
2. Remove both rear wheels and brake drums. This is to eliminate brake drag when measuring the preload torque on the pinion bearings. As an alternate, back off on the brake adjustment to eliminate all drag.
3. Disconnect rear universal joint and optionally remove front so entire drive shaft can be removed. This is to get it out of the way for work to come.
4. Using a socket and adapters to go from the nut holding the yoke to a 50 inch-lb. (repeat inch-lb) torque wrench measure the resistance of the pinion shaft to rotation. Do not count the initial load to start the motion. One expects to see a reading of 10 to 20 inch-lbs. Note this value.
5. Mark the yoke location on the pinion shaft with a punch so it can be installed in the original location.
6. The yoke nut is staked. Remove as much of the stake as possible. As the nut is removed the staking will damage the threads of the nut.
7. Remove nut with an impact wrench. Use a 7/8 â€" 14 UNF tap to clean up the threads in the nut. It is important to have clean threads so a proper torque reading can be obtained later.
8. Remove yoke. To remove the seal first tap the seal toward the rear in the seal retainer (size adapter). This will expose a lip on the retainer that a typical slide hammer can catch. Using the slide hammer remove the seal retainer with seal. On the bench carefully remove the old seal from the retainer.
9. In a running change mid year in 1952 Cadillac eliminated the seal retainer design and used a seal with the same ID as the early seals and the same OD as the seal retainer. Due to the relationship of the seal housing to shaft these will not fit on pre 1953 cars even though all of the diameters are correct.
10. Remove washer and tapered roller bearing.
11. Remove the collapsible sleeve using a small needle nose pliers. If the sleeve does not readily come out work the sleeve back and forth with the fingers while at the same time pulling with the needle nose pliers. Note the bulge on the rear end of the sleeve.
12. Using a thread file remove the stake marks from the pinion shaft.
13. In 1939 Cadillac started to use the collapsible sleeve design. For 1937 and 1938 cars see step 21. The purpose was to provide the factory with a simple method to preload the pinion tapered roller bearings. The preload in force is approximately 1200 to 1400 pounds. This force is provided by the designed deformation of a precisely machined collapsible sleeve. This results in the bulge noted in step 11. The risk on disassemble is that the sleeve will now be slightly short which will excessively load the bearings before the yoke nut is tight enough. On reassembly shims can be added to insure that this does not happen.
14. Typically, add a .005-inch or .010-inch shim on the pinion shaft between the sleeve and the rear bearing. This shim is 2.375†O.D. and 1.875†I.D. It is available as a shim pack for a Dana D44 30 spline rear end. This is available from Randy’s Ring and Pinion, 800-347-1188 as part number SK 30214. This may also be available at other sources.
15. Using emery cloth clean the inside of the sleeve to insure that it can be installed and removed easily. Oil the sleeve on the ID and after adding the shims reinstall the sleeve, bearing and washer.
16. At this time do not install the new seal but trial fit the yoke, washer and nut. Tighten the nut snuggly and check to see that approximately 0.010 inch of endplay exists in the pinion shaft bearing assembly. If not, disassemble and add or subtract shims. This endplay will be removed when the nut is tightened and the sleeve collapses further.
17. Remove the yoke one final time. Install the new seal in the retainer and install the complete seal assemble in the differential housing. A modern seal (National #473179, NAPA #18671, or equivalent) made with a single sealing surface is recommended over the original leather type. Install the yoke (aligned with previous mark on pinion splines). Before installing the yoke clean the seal surface with 400 grit wet and dry sand paper. If seal surface is damaged in any way use a speed-i-sleeve to repair (part # 99187).
18. Install the yoke and tighten the nut to snug and confirm again that endplay exists in the pinion shaft. The sleeve will now need to be collapsed further to eliminate the endplay. Tighten the nut to at least 225 ft-lbs. and measure the inch-lbs drag on the bearings. It should be roughly the same as before disassemble but if 10 inch-lbs are achieved with used bearings and the nut is tightened to at least 225 ft-lbs the job is done. Tool J-2659 is used to hold the yoke while torque is applied to the nut. If tool is unavailable, something needs to be adapted. If drag is low tighten the nut one-half flat at a time beyond 225 ft-lbs and recheck drag. Continue until drag is correct.
19. Stake pinion nut.
20. Refill axle with oil and reinstall brake drums and wheels.
21. On 1938 and small series 1937 cars a collapsible sleeve was not used. A fixed sleeve was used with factory-installed shims to obtain the correct preload. DO NOT ADD SHIMS TO THESE CARS. To replace the seal on these cars no special procedures are required. Just remove the yoke, install the seal and torque the nut. Be sure to follow the procedures on cleaning the nut and staking procedures.
Jim - I appreciate the opportunity to view your photos and read your text . Keep them coming . Great job . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Well it has been a while since I posted any progress pics. Almost everything is in the chassis and I should be setting the body back on soon. I did the rear pinion seal just like as outlined in the above post and everything turned out great. That is my trusty brother in the background sifting though misc. nuts and bolts. How come you always have extra nuts and bolts after you put things back together?