Hello, Just photos to let you know work has started on my V-12.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
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Great pictures Ty,
Right down to the basics. Especially for us that have never seen a V12 down this far.
Bruce. >:D
Looking forward to seeing the progress in pics. Thanks for posting.
Don't get scared off mid way through.
I'm not sure I could handle another cliff hanger.
David
Here's a good V12 article http://ateupwithmotor.com/component/content/article/137.html
Thanks Jeff,
What a great post!
Ty
Here's a neat V-12 picture. I think it was on this board a year or so ago, not sure.
Harry Scott (4195)
What'd they say back then?
Hubba Hubba!
Take your eyes off those polished covers and you can then see that the fan belt has teeth. Ha, ha.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
I did notice that. I've seen other old photos recently that showed the cog style belts too.
And here I thought those were recent inventions.
Those belts were not really cog belts, they were on standard pulleys. The notches in the belt was to allow it to wrap around small diameter pulleys I guess the old belts were not as flexible as the new ones.
Glen
Okay, I know it has been a long time, but here are newer progress photos. If the Administrator will move this to the Restoration Blog I will add photos as I take them as work is progressing fast now on this V-12 1937 Cadillac.
Rebored cylinders to 0.030, polished crankshaft, installed new wrist pin bushings, R & R piston rods, resurfaced flywheel, complete valve job on cylinder heads, see those exhaust valve seats?, new valve guides, resurfaced cylinder heads, replaced push rod tubes, cleaned, sanded and painted firewall and chassis, rebuilt clutch, redo brake lines cleaned valve silencers, new valve rockers and push rods, new timing chain, new sproket on camshaft and crankshaft, started long block assembly, $21,000 and not even done yet. So, think about it long and hard before you purchase a V-12 or V-16. Should have purchased an old Chevy!
More to come next week.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Here are other photos.
and add this one please.
Other side
Hello again,
Here are six current photos of progress as of today on my 1937 Cadillac V-12 engine.
Hope you can see them well because I had to reduce the clarity greatly to make them fit.
Thank you.
Ty Stinson
DLD22330
Seems that only one at a time will forward.
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Okay, the engine is now in the car. The following 21 photos are a walkaround from the Driver's side and all around. Hope they are interesting/helpful to you. Note that I'm changing the original carbs out and replacing them with Zeniths. Because I plan to drive the car from Maryland to California now that I have retired. That has been the plan and why I'm spending so much MONEY on this rebuild. Zeniths will not leak, and I can tune them anytime due to elevation changes along the way without taking them off to change the jets. My original functional Detroits are for sale for any of you wanting to go back to original. In the past year these carbs have been sold from $2,700 to $3,200 a pair, in verious conditions. I'm asking $2,200.
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G'day Ty,
You are going to have a wonderful cruise when the time comes, but, make sure you finish it completely, as I know from experience, once one starts to drive a car with a coupe of jobs to finish, they seem to never get quite finished. ;)
Bruce. >:D
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And this was the beginning shot.
Very nice engine; they were very stylish then. I hope that it will run as well as it's good looking!
Roger
Thanks Roger.
I just received a phone call this morning that the engine had been started, and is now running smoothly at 400 rpm. Can't wait to see it this Sunday or so. Will show photos and hopefully a sound bite if I can figure out how to post it here.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Hi Ty,
Car is looking great! Your photos show just what a huge achievement it was to get the 12's to fit into the 75 series. No mean feat!
I notice you have sourced a solution to the trunk floor and that you have "sectioned" your old one out right about where I have had to cut mine out. I would love to see some photos once your trunk floor goes back in again.
I have finally had some progress on my "8" re-build after sleeving one cylinder and repairing the crack to the block. It is due back in a couple of weeks when I have to start again on the crankshaft because it is trashed. Luckily I have two other engines!
Keep it up (and don't worry too much about the kids College fund - my girls still say they love me anyway!),
John Tozer
#7946
Hello John,
It is so good to hear from you. Our three kids have finished college and started their careers. I did work an extra year to gather funds to finish the car, and I have been retired since July 1st. Remember, six years ago I was worried about purchasing the car with kids starting college? I will have photos of the finished trunk floorpan installed in about two weeks. Good luck with progress on your engine.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Ty,
You have got the balance just about right - worked an extra five years to put your kids through college and then an extra year for your car! Now you should have no pangs of conscience about spending like all get out! If needs to be done, just do it!
I'm still 2 1/2 years away from your 1 July decision but I sure am planning for it. Having seen my retirement funding head for the toilet two years ago (it's just beginning to recover) and with the two girls still studying I am not quite where you are.
Enjoy!
John Tozer
#7946
It isn't "Retirement", it is "Getting a Life", and getting a life is GOOD.
Bruce. >:D
Thanks John and Bruce,
I'm well on my way to 72 years of age, so I guess you are right. Time to get a life of our own (with my wife). The three kids are gone, my financial obligations are finished, and I'm too deep in the car now to stop restoration. I will finish it even though I'm approaching its book value. It will be there with the new glass installed and a paint job. Then a long and slow drive cross country will make it all worth every penny. Real retirement having a fine Cadillac to drive! And some CLC car shows along the way I hope. Ha, ha.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Hello, it will be next week before I can get back to see the final work done to the engine. So, I thought I would go back in time and show you where I started with the brake system. Ended up I had to purchase all new brake cylinders as well as have the master cylinder rebuilt. These next 12 photos will show progress on the brake system and the wheels. I had started by sanding down the brake housing and using white primer. But it looked like a short cut so I took all four of the brake housing units off the car and sanded them down to bare metal with a wire brush on an electric drill. Then I treated each unit with liquid rust remover leaving a gray etched finish to the bare metal (all parts large and small) which served as a good base for PM Industries Master Series Chassis Coating. The wheels were sandblasted and coated with the same PM Master Series Coating with foam brushes for a spray-on-like finish.
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Also, all new brake line hoses were installed and all metal lines were replaced with stainless steel lines and fittings.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Hello,
If anyone is interested in converting their V8 to a V12 attached are 6 photos of a complete rebuilt V12 engine ready to install. All work has been documented. The price is $25,000 and you won't have to go through the pain I did restoring my own engine at a greater cost of almost $30,000 needing everything done to it.
I highly recommend that you contact:
Pat Colleary
Shop Manager
NBC Northern Boulevard Collision
17 Watermill Lane
Great Neck, NY 11021
You can reach him direct on 516 487 8022 or FAX 516 487 8041
I have nothing to gain from this recommendation but please mention my name. He is an excellent person to work with when purchasing items for your car and he will help you in every way.
The following photos are of his engine and not my own.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
and the next three
Today is a great day in history!
The car was running at 400 RPM
and it was a very good sound to hear.
G'day Ty,
Great news, and looking really good.
Pity we couldn't hear it, but seeing the fan rotating is just as good.
Bruce. >:D
Same wheel, then and now.
Try this link on youtube to see and hear the engine run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkbCjXVbGNU
Ty Stinson
DLD22330
Beautiful, and we got to see the car moving as well, doubly beautiful. :) :) :)
Love the Oil Filter position, and the way you routed the Exhaust over the top.
Bruce. >:D
That is so AWESOME!!! You must be feeling great about all of the progress. My DREAM car is a 33 Cadillac v-16.......or a 12.......right now my son and I are working on a 59 Fleetwood I've owned since 1980, and a 75 Eldo Conv we just bought.....so we are a bit busy......and your kind of car is out of my league. Thanks for sharing all of your dreams coming true!!! How much do you think you will have into the engine/mechanical when all done?
Jeff
Quote from: Stinson on November 26, 2010, 07:07:00 PM
Try this link on youtube to see and hear the engine run.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkbCjXVbGNU
Ty Stinson
DLD22330
Hello Jeff, thank you. Currently I have $27,000 "invested", I tell my wife, in restoring the engine, transmission, clutch, starter, generator, fuel pump, and another $2,200 for the Zeniths. Also, $1,500 in the radiator. So, I have over $30,000 under the hood alone. I can't stand much longer being in this Big Boy's league.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
I don't see buds on the trees yet and it is still not time to get our "works of art projects" going, but here is the latest porogress on my car. I have recently been informed that my daughter would like to use the car in her wedding on July 24th. So, things should proceed a little faster now.
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Great work Ty,
One thing about a reason to complete a task really get's one motivated. And that is you get to have a spare room ;) on the 25th.
Bruce. >:D
Ty,
I have your bumper over-riders and the centre badge plate is at the foundry for casting.
All these cars (the three I have dismantled and yours) all rusted in the same places:
- the bottoms of the doors;
- the rear wheel wells at or above the floors;
- at the top of the rear wheel well where it meets the side of the car;
- the trunk floor.
I think it goes something like this:
- car is left out and rubbers around rear window and rear quarters perish and split;
- water gets in through perished rubber and collects on top of the rear wheel well (helped by all the timber framing there);
- water eventually finds its way to the lowest point - the trunk floor on one side of the "hump" in the floor and at the base of the 'C' pillar where it meets the floor on the other side.
How is the front of your rear wheel well where it meets the floor? I am not looking forward to fabricating the rotten bits there.
You are doing great and remember - there is only one thing between the car now and being ready for that wedding - more money! Be nice if you added up afterwards which cost more - the wedding or the car. One wit in my office says the best way to add expense to anything is to put the word "wedding" in front of it - "wedding" cake, "wedding" photos etc. etc.
Keep it up,
Regards,
John Tozer
#7946
Hello John, Great to hear from you! Hope and I just returned from three weeks (well, 17 days anyway) in Hawaii last Thursday, and I went back to work Monday for the next three or four months to help pay for the wedding. Trying to finishes the car in time too. Told the restorer to just make it a 20-footer paint job to cut costs. He refused, after all the money spent on the engine, and suggested we cut back on the quality of the paint rather than the finish.
I will need only one perfect bumper over-rider now, but two of those pumper badge plates. Also, searching for two of the larger emblems for those plates (they are larger than those used on the hubcaps.
You are right about those rust prone areas. As you can see work is being done there now.
Many thanks,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Okay, it is time to decide on paint. What do you think about the attached?
LOVE the blue with some yellow. What program are you using to do this trial and error on without actually painting the car? That looks like a cad program or something. Do you know if it is available on line for other years? Jeff
Hello Jeff,
Nope, just water color and/or color pencils. Use the blank to print out for it is correct for the model and year. As you may know, there was no two-tone paint for the 1937 year, but it was used again in 1938. It is only paint if you would like to be different and there is no damage to the car in my opinion.
Thank you,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Well you asked...
I believe that two tone paint schemes on Cadillacs after 1933 do not look very good. Respectfully, I would suggest painting it a single color. And, for that type of car, I would suggest going with a factory color. Particularly, because it looks like you are keeping it stock.
Now, if you had a northstar in it, modern leather interior, etc. I would say paint it two tone.
Not trying to be confrontational. Just one person's opinion.
Hello Jon,
Thank you. Should I select one of the 1937 solid grey colors available back then, which one would you select? Light or dark grey, and if so, what would that color name be? And, would it be Cadillac, LaSalle, Packard or what. As I understand it, any color available as of 1937 would have been okay for an additional $25.00.
Many thanks for your comments,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Hello Jon,
I'm serious about one of the greys. Hope my response did not put you off. I do appreciate your comments. I have purchased samples of greys, Italian Cream, blues and still can't make up my mind about any one. A new paint selection is a serious thing because of the expense. Again I'm leaning to a grey I believe will make the age and model of the car stand out for the era.
Ty Stinson
Hi Ty,
No, your response did not put me off. I don't get on this form on a routine basis, unfortunately.
To my mind, a gray would look very good. Looking at the color chips, I think a darker gray, such as Menard Gray Metallic (Comb. No. 59), would look great. See: http://www.lidreamboats.org/images/cadillac_36_color_chips7.jpg
Peruvian Gray (Comb. No. 24) looks good also. See: http://www.lidreamboats.org/images/cadillac_37_color_chips3.jpg On the other hand, a lighter gray might look great. I believe this 1936 V12 is painted Dusty Gray, a 1936 Cadillac color: http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/484304,10284,0,0/photo.aspx It looks great, too.
I would also be partial to a dark blue. I'm guessing that most of the 4-door sedans of that era, a large v-12 would have been painted a dark color.
My father has a 36-7519 - pretty much the same body, but with the lowly flathead - and it is painted Regent Maroon; however, it was originally black. Personally, I like the trim tag to match the color of the car and would repaint my dad's car black. That is just me, though. Here is a 1937-75 in red: http://www.conceptcarz.com/view/photo/282608,15426/1937-Cadillac-Series-75_photo.aspx
You are right, paint is serious, and expensive. Take your time and make sure it is the color you want. At the end of the day, go with what you want, and it will be great.
Ty,
I realize you are mainly engaged in a dialogue w/ Jon Riley and I whole heartedly agree w/ his nod to grays w/ one notable exception; Peruvian Gray was the original color of the 37 LaSalle that I am restoring. It had been painted at least 3 times over the years so I really didn't know what that color looked like until I removed the taillights from the rear fenders. Turns out all the re-paints had been done w/o removing the taillights, so under the gasket was a perfectly preserved example of Peruvian gray that had never been exposed to sunlight or weather.
In a word it was ugly, having a distinct greenish cast to it! In fact, if you were just presented w/ a panel painted this color, I bet you say, "Olive Drab". So unless you are restoring General Eisenhower's command vehicle, I don't think that particular gray would be a very good option. Having said that, I realize that someone must have liked it, at least in 1937, but all the other grays that I have seen on Cadillacs and LaSalles are just much more pleasing.
So you might ask, if I decided against sticking w/ the original color, what did I choose? Admiral Blue. And even though it was not the factory wheel color that was paired w/ Admiral Blue in 1937, I have chosen Flare Red for the wheels. That combination just cries out 30's to my eyes. You can see exactly that color combination on page 265 of the Van Gelderen/Larson book, LaSalle, Cadillac's Companion Car. To each his own, but beware of Peruvian Gray.
Mark Lowery, CLC #25216
Hello Mark and Jon,
Many thanks for your comments. They are very, very helpful. I really enjoyed the web sites provided, and seeing the different paint colors.
Menard Grey is the current color of my dash. I had ordered paint cards for Menard Gray and I like the color on the dash but I think the whole car in it would be very drab. Peruvian Grey is now off my list. I will look for Admiral Blue. I also have paint cards for Italian Cream, Packard Cent Blue (very dark like my original color). I also have Regatta Blue and 1937 Cadillac La Mothe Gray (very dark and I do like it) but need to see the lighter grays. This has been a long hard decision for five years now. I do know I don't want the original color of black/blue (Antoinette sp?).
Ty Stinson
Ty,
If you are interested in checking out Admiral Blue, you might want to type that into the search function on the forum and read the lengthy exchange on that topic from 2009. Long story short, Bill Sullivan came to the conclusion that Volvo's 2001 color "MarineBlau" was about the best match to this color in a modern paint. That is what I used, and you'll see in that thread that I chose single stage enamel (PPG) and Bill use their Base Coat/Clear Coat version of same, at least on the exterior of his Coupe.
Heck, if you get real lucky, you might find a Volvo driving around in that color. But in any event, a good sample should be as close as your nearest PPG Paint supplier.
Mark Lowery, CLC #25216
Ty - take a look at my Menard Gray 37. Right front fender is not buffed out in these photos . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Ty - more photos . Sorry , it's the LEFT front fender that's not buffed out . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Paul, That Manard Gray is perfect for your car - beautiful! That is the color my wife likes best. It was the very first color we considered - because our car looked so good in old light gray primer when we bought the car. La Mothe Gray is now out because it is two-stage, more expensive process, and I don't trust clear coat. I have asked my painter to try 1933 Cadillac Storm Cloud Blue. My painter is suggesting a color similar to The Self-Starter cover page of March 2011. It will be one of these three colors for time has run out, and sample painting starts next week. Manard Gray, Storm Cloud Blue, or something like Lynne Ornes' Indiana Gray.
Many thanks,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Here are the next photos as taken yesterday. the doors and the trunk are in primer having been reskined and ready to put back on the car. The body is almost finished being sanded, and ready for primer this week. These photos have been arranged as a walk around view.
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This is it for today. Thank you for looking.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Ty - the car looks GREAT. You're doing it up right . You'll be finished long before me. Keep those photos coming . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Ty,
It's looking really nice, can't wait for the paint!
Today is April 9, 2011 and attached are photos of the current status regarding color. This was a trial run with a very light Ivory single stage color. I think this color will appear very elegant on this large body style having wheel wells and all new chrome. I have gone through many colors as you know during the year, and this is my final color selection. Hope some of you will also like this very light-gray Ivory. Thank you,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
More of April 9, 2011
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Looking great, Ty. Did the bride-to-be have anything to do with the colour in the end?
You'll be fine by June,
John Tozer
#7946
Hello John,
Now, how did you figure that out. It will make a great wedding photo day. But, I still wonder about that Storm Cloud Blue. Stop, stop, I don't think I can deal with all that color selection process again, ha, ha.
Ty,
Good color choice---Shoot it!
Hello Don,
Thank you, I hope it will look very classic in Ivory. I did see an original photo of a 1936 V-16 four-door convertible that looks this color, and it looks "Grand".
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
April 17, 2011 The trunk and four doors are back on. Getting the hood ready and should paint by next weekend.
Can't wait to see it all back together and painted. All chrome should be ready to install by end of May then all new glass and rubber.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Two more.
Hello everyone. Attached are ten photos taken today (5/22/11). Everything getting close now. Waiting for the chrome and new glass.
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The red wheels will be replaced by new Real Rodder Smoothie's and radial tires with 4 inch white walls.
Hope you will like it. Ready for our daughters wedding on July 24th.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Ty, it looks great, can't wait to see it complete!
Ty - looking good . I wish I was progressing with my restoration as quickly as you are with yours .Make sure you post some wedding photos . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Hello. Well, there is more progress made as I come up with the funds to pay for it. Most chrome parts are installed and most glass is in. Turn signals are being installed now. The small round lights at the base of the rear tail lights are now turn signals for the rear. We are installing 1929 lights in front on the bumper as front end turnsignals. I like them because of the design. I have purchased auto insurance ($65,000) and Maryland Historic tags alowing registration for a set 1937 tags. I have a beautiful set of trunk hinges that I had chromed but the attachment holes for the trunk lid are spaced differently so we can't use them. Must also use the bumper plates as they are because I can't locate better ones. Also, a new Gas cap will not fit. The window vents came back with a beautiful finish but we forgot to send the fixed verticle bars and it is too late to send them out. The wedding is July 24th and I am prodding to have the car finished. Yep, we are now talking about two weeks from yesterday!
Attached are 12 fotos showing the current status as of Sunday (yesterday). Thank you,
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
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This is all for today.
and one more.
A few words about the wedding day.
.....and more. ;)
A great day for all.
Thank you for sharing the pictures! I assume that the car gave no trouble; now that the LaSalle back home, are you ready to maybe change the outside color? (who knows, maybe you have another person to mary; you cannot go with the same car!)
Roger
Hello everyone. Thank you for your comments along the way. This has been a very, very enjoyable and also frustrating venture. But it is now almost done. I will install six each 1940 custom mag wheels made for new radial tires for my travel cross country. Adding turn signals and additional lights up front too. Also, will install seatbelts and an electric radiator fan system if I can't get the engine heat down.
I could use your help selling the following items left over from this six-year restoration.
1937 grille 300
37 Cad tail light sets with lens 350
37 Cad tail light set with lens 300
Set of bumpers 200
Hood top 2 sections 200
Front/rear rebuilt brake shoes 385
Front/rear rebuilt shock sets 1,200
Trunk chromed hinges 300
Trunk handle 100
Shift knob 35
Two front fenders -
(75, 85 series) with wheel wells 1,800
Ty,
Nice touch with the bumper plates....
"Something old, something new!"
Still waiting for a reason to go to Sydney to check out the cast plates.
Regards and well done, Dad!
Many thanks John,
Your new bumper plates from England and Cel's new hood bars from Australia will look outstanding. I now have an international car.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Sorry John. I had you confused with Steve Passmore. Steve just sent me the cast plates he made for me in England. I think you were making a set for yourself in Sydney?
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Just a short status report: At the last minute, our daughter Elizabeth came home Saturday night and she drove Hope and me to the '37 on Sunday. We drove the car home then because it was a beautiful clear day and the turn signals and a new starter switch had been installed. We left Pete's house with turn signals working, driving 55 and 60 mph all below center in the white zone - and all seemed just fine. That is until we got to the 270 and beltway split. There were two of the loudest back fires I have ever heard and they came from the '37. We had just remarked how hot the floor of the car felt and we thought we smelled something burning so we pulled over at the absolute best location for miles. There was a long and wide area available just as we made the turn to follow the beltway. I checked the car as best I could but found nothing wrong so back in the car and ready to pull off - but the instruments were all dead and we could not start the car - completely dead. Ready to call a tow truck to take it back to Pete's but first called Pete and explained what happened. Pete was there within 20 minutes. He brought his instrument to check circuits - nothing. Out came the front seat and the floorboards. The end of the battery cable had melted away from the cable end piece left connected to the battery. Held the cable to the battery post and there were many sparks. There had to be a short somewhere. Later, we found that the new cable installed to the new starter switch on the starter unite had rotated down so that it touched the stainless exhaust pipe. The heat caused the casing to milt away (that is what we smelled) and exposed the bare cable to rub against the exhaust pipe and shorted out the battery cable and caused it to milt and separate. So, what to do. Pete clipped off the end of the battery cable to spread out the end and placed it over the battery post and pushed the cable end piece back onto the battery post. I used a short rope piece from Hope’s pocketbook to tie off the cable so it could not reach the exhaust pipe. Pete turned on the ignition and pushed the starter button on the dash and the engine started and all was fine. Pete followed us to the next exit and we were off again - everything seemed better than all other times driving the car 50 -60 mph and in the white. All was just fine until we got to Route 50 and then "Rain Hell" broke loose. Hope turned on the new windshield wipers as I looked for a place to pull over and stop. Well, you know what happens to very new things, sometimes they don't work and I had to see where we were going. Hope turned them off and on a hundred times until they were "broken in" and they would swipe both ways by themselves. They worked just fine and all was well again as we headed home. So much for picking a dry day between rainy days to get the car home dry. Then it happened. The windshield fogged up and again I could not see out so we opened the hood vent and side vents slightly. That took care of the foggy windshield but water leaked from under the windshield transmissions and was going into the dash and instrument panel. So Hope collected anything dry to constantly wipe up the water at the top of the dash. Finally, the rain stopped and there was light at the end of the tunnel for we saw the most beautiful full color rainbow ahead. We got home safely.
The joys of teething troubles when restoring old cars eh? Ty. :(
Hello, here is what it looks like today.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
I see that you had to install indicator lamps under the headlamps. At least, they are discret and don't disturb too much the fine lines.
Nice car!
Hello Roger, I think those are old LaSalle headlight buckets having the holes already there. So, that is why we placed the indicator lights there for now. I need to find two sets of bumper mounts for front and rear to relocate them.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Ty, maybe you have also some regulation in your country: in Switzerland, they would not be accepted as too far away from the side of the car.
Good point. Also, indicator lights mounted directly in the beam area is probably not a good idea.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
At one time, most turn indicator were next to the headlamps. Not quite visible!
My present car (2011 DTS) has the turn indicators right above the headlamps, in the same nacelle...
Okay, now it was my granddughter's wedding day and this is what the car looks like today - still getting there. Need runningboards, some chrome items and a new rearend for better gas mileage and get those RPMs down, down, down. Also, I have another set of headlights I may chrome plate and exchange for the white ones. Will add foglights too.
Ty Stinson
Getting there another step at a time. New runningboards now on the way for twin daughter's wedding November 2012 and son's wedding next June 2013.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
This is what the car looks like today. Added runningboards, chrome headlights, fog lights, and turn signals front and back.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
G'day Ty,
That is one "photogenic" vehicle.
Well done.
Bruce. >:D
Here we are now almost finished with finished wheels.
That is sure one classy looking ride!!!!
Thank you. As soon as I can install the new dashboard (chrome plated) and new instruments I will finish this posting.
Ty Stinson
The gentleman opening the rear door looks might classy too! ;D
Beautiful car Ty, and I have been following your post a long time and I really appreciate the information you have presented.
Thank You,
Gary Griffin
Many thanks Gary, I hope some of the restoration has been interesting along the way. I will finish soon with several final photos.
Ty Stinson
The latest improvements to date.
Ty Stinson
and the headlights
This is the end everyone. Thanks for watching and all your help along the way during the past eight years.
Ty Stinson
This car is now for sale:
$70,000
Thank you.
Ty Stinson
cell phone 443 370 7167
Hello Everyone, this is just to let you know that the car has sold for $75,000.
Thanks to all of you for your guidance and help along the way finding parts and etc. I have met some great friends during these restoration years through this CLC Web site. I will miss you. Some have since died. I'm now finished with antique cars for no one in the family can care for them. So, it is off to a new home for this one in Lithuania.
Ty Stinson, Sr.
CLC 2230
Congratulations on the sale Ty.
I am sure the purchaser will enjoy driving it on the Continent. As will the rest of the population seeing it driving past.
Bruce. >:D