I've been wanting to share my restoration experience for a while now , but only recently learned how to post pictures . I hope I can do it again . Here goes - about two years worth of restoration.
Sorry - forgot to sign my name on the previous post . The car was in pretty good shape when I bought it , but the paint was getting tired and it wasn't the correct trim tag color. It is supposed to be Menard Gray. So -- the decision was made to repaint it the correct color . Of course that means eventually changing the vinyl upholstery as well . More to come . Paul Tesone CLC#6876
Paul:
Nice pictures and nice car. I look forward to seeing more pictures and viewing more details or your car.
Bill Hedge
Paint was stripped by hand . Pretty good sheet metal . P. Tesone CLC #6876
All sheet metal was epoxy coated . First area of rust found . P Tesone CLC #6876
Rust gone in one area , found more on rear where bumper brackets attach . Same on passenger side . These were the only spots that had to be cut out and replaced . P Tesone CLC #6876
Patch in place . Meant to say "driver's side" in previous post not "passenger side". Car now in primer . Posting these pictures takes time ! P Tesone CLC #6876
Porcelain came back looking good ( Prairie Auto Porcelain ). P Tesone CLC #6876
Porcelain looking good on the engine .Finally some paint . P Tesone CLC #6876
Each little square had to be hand filed to remove small bubbles before applying paint to the surfaces . Plater could not get chrome to reach inside the squares . I'm not certain , but I don't think the grill or these hood pieces came from the factory with chrome inside the squares either . Driver's front fender is not buffed out yet . P Tesone CLC #6876
Dash in primer. Going to Hydro Dip for woodgrain . Almost done with photos . P Tesone CLC #6876
Hydro Dip did a nice job . They worked with me until they got what seems to be the correct " olive burl " wood pattern. I had them extend beyond the required border so my restorer could feather edge the dash paint up to the proper border . Very interesting process. If you google Hydro Dip , you can see a video and the different patterns available . I also had the window surrounds done P Tesone CLC #6876
Radio is not correct. Map light and cigarett lighter have damaged jewels .Correct radio face and different jeweled knobs on the way .P Tesone CLC #6876
Hydro Dipped window surrounds . I bought a glass repro that didn't fit ( too thick ) , so I had a local glass company use the repro as a template to make a new one with thinner glass . Well, I've probably taken up too much space , but I'm done . Hope to be able to report that I'm driving the car this summer . The upholstery will have to wait until the end of the summer . If this post works out , I might have to bore you with my 47 convertible restoration .Thanks for looking . Paul Tesone CLC# 6876
Paul,
Your grey color looks beautiful. I don't know where I got the idea it would look dull on my car, ha, ha. That is single stage and just polished out? How long after painting before the rub out?
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Ty - This is a two stage ( bsaecoat/clearcoat ) paint. My restorer said he likes to use the two stage paint especially with the metalic paints ( although I really don't see much in the way of metalic flakes in my paint ). He feels that the basecoat is more forgiving with regard to a "dusting" after initial application, if it is necessary. I think I'm repeating that information correctly . He tells me that the basecoat drys rather quickly - within an hour or so . He then applies the clearcoat - I think he said within 24 hours. The clearcoat is then wet sanded with 2000 grit and buffed out. I'm a little uncertain how long he waits after the clearcoat to wet sand . Not long though . He said you don't want to wet sand too quickly because the product will be too soft; and you don't want to wait too long or the product will be hard and more difficult to wet sand . I'm just not sure what he considers too short or too long a time period . Hope I got that all correct and the information is helpful to you . Keep up the good work. I'm anxious to see the final result . I'm sure it will be beautiful . Paul Tesone CLC 3 6876
This is no bore, it's absolutely fascinating! I think this color is very sophisticated, and the car is going to be incredible...
Some additional progress - got back my bumpers and grill from the plater - not a very good photo of the front. Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Window surrounds in place --- Made the mistake of having Hydro Dip woodgrain the windshield center post . I believe it's supposed to be chrome . Too late now . It's going to stay that way . Dash ash tray and defroster vents were rechromed . Ash tray still needs to be painted properly . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Had the under dash radio speaker box restored . Too bad it's not in plain sight because I think it looks pretty good . Paul Tesone CLC# 6876
Close ups of the before and after of the speaker box .
Radio speaker box painted . Almost ready for the road . Can hardly wait to replace the brown interior with red leather . Forgot to sign my last post - sorry . Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Paul, your car looks like it's coming together nicely. I think that the grey / red combo looks really sharp. The dash looks great, I'm going to look into that company for my project, thanks for the info.
Paul, the dash is beautiful! I would not change a thing.
Ty Stinson
CLC22330
Andrew & Ty - thanks for the support . It really does give me a great deal of satisfaction to share my successes , mistakes and what little knowledge I have with the readers . Hopefully , someone will benefit from my experiences . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Hello Paul,
Is your dash white or a very light grey. I think it is beautiful.
Ty Stinson
CLC11220
Hi Ty - thanks for the compliment . The dash is neither white nor light grey . It's actually a light beige , but the camera's flash gives it an even lighter appearance . The authenticity manual calls for a beige but I don't believe it states exactly what shade of beige it should be . After looking a a number of photos of 37 dashes and seeing a few in person , I couldn't find a consistant beige color . After a while , I was driving myself crazy trying to be as authentic as possible . Since my searches did not come up with a reoccuring consistant color, I picked a beige that would give some contrast to the olive burlwood center of the dash . I think it is lighter than it should be ; but it does seem to allow the center portion of the dash to stand out , so I don't regret using it ,even if it isn't the exact shade it's supposed to be . The front and rear door window trim was recently put on . I'll try and post pictures of them and a more accurate photo of the dash in natural sunlight . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Hi again Ty - finally got the car out to a show . It's not done yet , but getting there . New upolstory and top is next plus a few odds and ends . Here are some photos that are more representative of the light beige dash color . As I said before , I'm sure it's not the authentic color , but it works for me . Also are photos of the door and front window trim .
Three more photos. Sorry - forgot to sign my previous post .Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Last one for now . I've got to be nuts for considering a change in the upholstory, because the brown actually looks pretty good . But it's vinyl and it's supposed to be leather, and there is an area on one of the door panels that mice got at . I doubt that I could get a good repair match even if I wanted to. So , the new interior will be the red seen in the photo . I think the red will look better with the grey exterior and the wood trim will also show better . This is a sickness ! Paul Tesone CLC #6876
FINALLY - the car is getting a long awaited top and leather interior . I have enough red leather samples to make a quilt ; but I did find one that I liked and ordered the hides ( Ralph , at Kaleen Leathers was very helpful ) . The vinyl interior has been removed , the floors are to get a Por-15 treatment , the seats are being rebuilt , and wooden templates have been made prior to the new leather door panels . I think another three weeks of work and all will be done . Well , it's never really done . Final photos to follow .Paul Tesone CLC #6876
More photos . Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Paul, the car looks good,i still have my original door panels here if you need something for your uphostery guy to see.O ne thing about these cars that bugs me is the front seat is not adjustable,I fit,but i wish i could put the seat back another inch or so,make sure that the springs in the seat are good and stiff,the clown who did mine just stuffed the sagging springs with some type of fuzzy stuff,so when i sit in the seat i sink quite low,it is hard to see over the dash,i wish i could sit higher so i could see better?my seat looks nice but is really soft so i sink a lot.Again that may be related to wanting to put the seat back,too many cheeseburgers maybe!. Harveyb
Thanks Harvey - I still have the photos and measurements you sent me a while back . I hope that they will be sufficient . I'm trying my best to get the upholstorers to reproduce the exact stitching and raised piping as original on seats and door panels. I've never used this shop before , but it comes well recommended and they do seem to be concerned with details . Floors have been cleaned and coated with Por 15 , heat/sound insulation is next . Seat frames and rear armrests being repaired and reinforced with new wood where indicated . Cardboard backings on door panels are to be replaced with luan . Hope to have some leather photos soon . ...Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Two more - P Tesone CLC # 6876
Last one - P Tesone CLC # 6876
Seats being rebuilt with foam and improved base support .
Heat/sound insulation , Por 15 in trunk , cardboard lining of top well being replaced . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Progress - wood now lining the convertible top well and seats taking shape . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Nice Job!!, where did you get the sound deadening material?
Fred P.
Thanks Fred - I'll have to get back to you about the sound deadening material . My upholsterers ordered it and I'll find out from where . Went for a "fitting" today . The front seat is stationary , so the upholsterers wanted to be sure I was comfortable in the seat before they started to apply any leather . In spite of some recent weight loss , I was still a little too close to the steering wheel ; so they plan to take about an inch of foam off the seat back . A final "fitting" is scheduled in two days . But I did get to see a try-in of one of the rear seat quarter panels . Wood pieces lining the top well are to be clad in vinyl .
Sorry - forgot to sign my last post . Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Paul, Looks great. Fred, I am in the process of insulating the interior of a Mack truck I am restoring with Dynamat. It works great and is easy to fit and install. It comes in different sizes. Check Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Dynamic%20Control%20Dynamat%20Xtreme%20Sound%20Deadening%20Liners&dds=1. Harry
I am trying to stay as original as possible. The black waffle pattern on this car looks like what in need
Thanks
Fred P.
Fred - the brand name of the material they used is STP. The specific STP product that was used is called " Black Magic " . On the box was printed www.STP-distribution.com . Hope that helps you . Paul Tesone CLC # 6876 .
Thanks, I am looking into it now.
BTW, The red leather looks great.
Fred P.
Progress photos - Plastic template transferred from foam to leather , back seat almost complete , first door panel ..... Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Decided to line the convertible well with leather instead of vinyl ; roof rails waiting for Hartz top . .... Paul Tesone CLC # 6876 .
Leather progress .... Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Earlier I said the door panels were going to have a luan backing . This was not correct . Luan was used for the preliminary template . A firmer , thicker wood was used for the final panel backing . Front door panels to go in tomorrow . Paul Tesone ..CLC #6876
Harry & Fred - thanks for taking the time torespond to my posts . ...Paul Tesone CLC#6876
I went to pick out a seat belt style & color today and was pleasantly surprised to see how much had been accomplished since yesterday . The guys even polished the door panel hardware and replaced them , angled in the same direction . I never would have thought to do that myself . Front seat , robe cord and back seat arm rest will get done next . Then the rugs , top and trunk . I feel very fortunate to have found these upholsterers . They have been working very hard , don't take shortcuts and are always concerned with details . Paul Tesone ...CLC #6876
Paul,
I also have a 1937 6049 Cadillac also that has been reworked. Your car looks very nice and I commend your work. I also make a very good pork based pasta sauce for Sunday meal. I wish you luck and health, and also to your family.
Regards,
Tony Menendez
Paul,
Good looking 6049 Cadillac referred to as a "Banker's Hot Rod". I wish you luck with your car, I also have the same model.
Go Miami Dolphins.
Regards,
Tony Menendez
Paul,
Sorry for the repeat on my post, still a good looking car.
Regards,
Tony
Thanks Tony - I love pork based pasta sauce . You might get a knock on your door some Sunday when the Pats are playing the Dolphins . ... Progress on the car continues . Seat belts are in , robe cord wrapped , rear seat arm rest is in , front seat finished . Defects in wooden top bows to be repaired with wood filler and loose joints re-glued . Concavities in the trunk and passenger floor pans were filled in with padding strips so the carpet won't get deformed . Trunk and rug should be finished soon . Then the top .
Sorry - forgot to sign my last post . ... Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Paul.
Your car is a beautiful example of the 6049, the work on the car has thus far been done to a high standard.
I personally feel the 1937 6049 has one of the best designs for the Cadillac models, the front grille
and rear end are of excellent taste.
I must mention that the performance of the 6049 is probably the fastest car Cadillac had in the 30's. We in this forum do not speak often of speed and handling but this car has got it. Keep us posted on your progress with the balance of the restoration, car looks damn good.
Regards,
Tony Menendez
Tony - Today , I went by to see how things were progressing . The carpeting is done , the wooden top bows and other wooden parts of the top mechanism have been wrapped in bodrill fabric, and the top is going on . I hope to have some final pictures shortly . I don't know about speed , but the car does seem to handle well . It is certainly easier to drive than my 47 convertible - especially when it comes to turning the wheels in a stationary position . Thanks for your kind comments . Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Wow is all that comes to mind. That is one cool car. Great colors Paul.
Mike
Thanks Mike - I nearly drove my wife , office staff and myself crazy trying to select the correct red from the many samples I had to choose from . But I think I (we) made right choice . The combination continues to grow on me . I'm just waiting for the top to be put on .The upholsterers are in the process of fabricating a pocket of sorts along the side rails to conceal the snaps . Then they can complete the top and I can get some final photos for all those readers who have so patiently followed the car's progress and so kindly contributed advice and positive comments. ...Paul Tesone C6876
THE TOP IS ON !!! ..... Now it looks like a real car . Still have some under-dash work to connect wires and ventilation tubing . Steering column needs to be painted and a new horn button .The guys made up a grey vinyl pad to protect the trunk rug and put a rubber lining in the little trunk well that will hold the bumper jack & handle . Convertible boot is next. I'm not sure if snaps screwed into the beading ( is that what it's called ) material along the rear of the top well are correct or not . How else would the boot be secured along the back of the well ? When I suggested snaps there , my upholsterer said that screwing snaps thru the material would be like driving a stake in his heart. Any thoughts as to originality would be appreciated . Harvey ,what do you think ? ...Paul Tesone CLC #6876
More photos - Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Cars looking really really nice Paul.
I understand your trimmers feeling about fixing snap bases to the 'Hidem' or 'Wireon' that he has used around the body line, I go through the same dilemma many times on my own cars as well as other peoples, but they had them on there from new. There is no other way of retaining the dust boot at the rear. I usually use only just enough to do the job, spacing them out as much as possible perhaps only 4 or 6 around the whole rear area. There isn't too much air pressure around the back, lack of them around the front area is what would lift the boot off if anything. I have studied my body manuals from all different years and the pictures aren't clear enough to see how many they used but I think I'm in the ballpark.
Paul. I have just gone through my library and found an original workshop manual as opposed to the normal re prints and it clearly shows 9, yes 9! snap bases around the convertible sedan body. I can only make out 7 on the coupe body. You cant have much more confirmation than that.
Steve - you continue to provide me with valuable information . I should put you on a retainer status like some people do with lawyers that they often use . Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Paul,
Concerning the snaps on the rear convertible top, I have looked at my 6049 and my car has eleven (11) snaps on the rear end of the car. These snaps (screws) are on the outside of the car on the rear panel holding down the convertible top, I suppose it was done this way because of the constant pressure the top has on it. I am not totally sure I'm referring to the same part of the top that you and Steve are discussing..........
Hope that info helps, my car is pretty much original other than elbow grease.
Regards,
Tony
Tony - Steve & I are referring to snaps penetrating the top material that the rear of the top well as noted by the arrows in the attached photo . Can you post some photos of various views - inside & out - of your car ? I'd sure be interested . Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
Paul, lets see if I can help you a little more. By studying the pictures even more I can see a total of 9 snaps or poppers bases whatever you want to call them around the car body but importantly here the dust boot does not use all of these. From the manual I can see there are 3 hidden under the top material on each side and your top proper has 3 of the other half of these snaps securing it on each side behind the rear door hidden under a false pelmet in the material of the hood, yes? The boot uses the front and rear ones of these 3 snaps, not all 3.
If I were above the car looking down facing backwards there is 1 snap base at 12 o'clock, in other words dead center, and 2 more at about the point where the seams land between the 3 segments of the top material.
So, 9 snap bases in all, 6 utilized and hidden by the roof, and just 3 around the tub beading for the benefit of the boot which has 7 in all.
If I could I would send you pictures but the detail is very fine and I'm sure I would loose it with scanning and copying but i hope that will clarify things. That's not to say you'll convince your trimmer of coarse :o
Wow that top looks very nice,my car had a top put on it about 25 years ago by a good upholstery shop here in my hometown,the problem was that the car was not ready for it,it was only half ready for paint and the doors were not aligned or adjusted at all,it is hard to latch the top,seems to shorten the door gaps?.I had since had the body off of the frame and had a bugger of a time to get the door gaps OK,they are still not right but are acceptable to me.All of the snaps on the boot are missing on my car too,did they just screw into the hard rubber material on the trim gulley,or would they go right through to the metal under neath?.I also thought they used the clips that had a button on the top that you turned to lock them,not a push in button style?Also there should be a button the inside of the rear seat for it to hook to?.Another thing,does anyone have a copy of the steps to fold the top,there is a specific order to fold the material,so it will lay in the well better?It is a 2 man job to put the top down on these.I am planning to have a new top put on my car sometime soon,if i can find someone i can trust to do a good job,nothing worse then paying someone to do a poor job.attached is a picture of one that was in a movie in 1937,called the affairs of cappy rick,poor picture of the boot?would love to see the movie. Harvey
Wow, very meticulous work, it is turning out excellent.
I'm not familiar with these cars, would you mind explaining what happens with the b-pillar when the top is down?
No Harvey, they did not use 'Turn Buckle fasteners' the book clearly states snap fasteners, anyway, I'm going to try and post these pictures, their sure to loose some clarity but here goes. Interesting to note there's 2 sets of instructions for different models of sedan convertibles.
Thanks again Steve . I've passed this new information & photos on to my upholsterers . Steve - one of the pictures you posted is of page 19 of your reference book . At the very bottom of the picture I think it says "Series 70 and 80" and something else that was cut off from the picture . Perhaps the words "convertible sedan" ? Does the other picture, which doesn't have a page number refer to a 60 series ? One last thing . I notice that the 70 & 80 series photo shows a dust boot that is very neat and form fitting with snaps showing and probably some sort of base layer of foam to help maintain its shape. I have seen photos of 60 series boots that do not have that same neat form , but rather appear as a loose single layer of fabric . Some show snaps , some don't . However ,these were not photos from original documents such as yours are . Do you think that the more formal larger series cars would have had the reinforced form fitting boot while the smaller 50 series LaSalles and 60 series cadillacs wouldn't ? As always , Thanks . .. Paul ...... Jim - to answer your question - the pillars are secured with bolts to the top rail and the frame between the doors . When the top is down , the pillars are removed and stored . Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Your right on most counts there Paul. The smaller series cars use a different top mechanism probably to do with the longer chassis and the smaller type not being up to the longer reach. Both pictures are for convertible sedans. I included that picture because I wasn't sure what type you had. these pictures are actually from an original 1936 manual but when checking my 37 and 38 re print books its the identical pictures carried over.
I have no way of knowing if they pad out the boots with anything, I would have to say no, as foam wasn't around then, and they would have had to use Hog or Horse hair which would be quite messy and the boot would become a cumbersome item to stow. My guess is their just nicely fitted. Good luck.
Got the car back from the upholsterers yesterday . Used Steve Passmore's information ( thank you again Steve ) regarding the number and location of the snaps for the top & boot. They are all hidden within the fabric .I couldn't get a photo with the top up - it's a two man job and I didn't have a second pair of hands . I'll do that soon . Now I need some advice about the color of the metal that supports the rear of the rear license plate and the metal rods that support the side mount tire cover . The picture of the side mounted tire is not great , but what you are looking at is inside ( body side ) of the side mount cover and the metal rods supporting it . Should they be body color , black ( flat, semi gloss ) or other ? I'll post this question in the authenticity section also . Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
I'm pleased to report that the car SEEMS to be finished except for a couple of insignificant cosmetic issues . Time to share some photos . Thanks to all who have helped me along this journey . A special thanks to Lou Commisso for help with the paint formula , to Steve Passmore who has gone out of his way to provide me with technical assistance , to Ralph at Keleen Leather who patiently helped me choose the correct red color , to Scott Bigelow of Scott's Custom Built Parts in Plainville , MA who did all my mechanical work , body work and painting , and to Kustom Kreations in North Reading , MA who did all the upholstery .....Paul Tesone CLC #6876
A few more . Thanks , Paul Tesone CLC #6876
Harvey - I forgot to mention your very important contribution . Harvey Bowness provided me with photos and dimensions of original door panels - information that was essential for my upholsterers to correctly reproduce the stitching . Thanks Harvey .....Paul Tesone CLC #6876
She really looks good Paul. Long hard work paid off. See you at Lake George next summer?
Funny, the choice of yard art looks familiar in the second to last pic.
Mike
Thanks Mike - Yes , hope to be at Lake George . How did you ever notice that statue ? Your eyes are too good . Please tell me you WON'T be a judge at Lake George . ... Paul Tesone CLC # 6876
No judging. Just gawking. May enter the touring division again at Lake George.
Mike
Paul, I have the original top boot that came with by '37 75 Series. It is just a form fitted snap on with no padding. The 75 & 85 Series convertible sedans have a three position top. When you unlatch it at the windshield the part over the front seat is horizontaly hinged and folds back under the rear portion of the top which is supported by the removeable window dividers giving a town car appearence. At that point you raise the top off of the supports and lower it into the top well. It can be a real wrestling match unless you have help. I have an instruction sheet somewhere if I can find I'll post it. Harry
Thanks Harry - I'd be interested in seeing that . ....Paul Tesone CLC #6876