I just picked this up this past weekend. I wasn't looking for another car, nor did I need another project, but for what I paid for it, I couldn't pass it up.
It was setting in a barn in rural IL but ran and drove. It was covered in dust and the interior was stained and full of trash but appeared to be in decent condition with the exception of the back seat which is disintegrating as I touch it. In any case, the car was in good enough shape for me to drive it 60 miles home on the interstate, doing about 55mph, in pouring rain.
The next day I spent about 6 hours washing it, scraping off stickers, removing broken junk accessories, cleaning out the corn cobs, beer cans, and misc food wrappers and vaccuuming it out. Basically trying to restore some dignity to this vehicle.
So this is what I have to start with.
Wow! ;D Nice find! Congratulations!
Andrew, What a Car! Bring it to the Potomac Region Professional Pride Show Oct 28, at Capital Cadillac in Greenbelt , MD. http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/forms/CLCPR.2012FallCarShow.Flyer.pdf
Harry
Andrew -
Looks like a great find. I have always thought that the 1966 model had the cleanest styling of any 75 sedan. If it has the original paint color, it appears to be the Claret Maroon. When you are ready, post some pictures of the interior. Does the divider window still work?
Regards, Paul Nesbitt
Nice find! I don't _need_ another car, but if I found that, it, too would follow me home. 8)
I'm sure it's been at least partially repainted but the cowl and door jams are basically the same color. The paint looks decent in the pictures but in real life, there is no gloss to it at all. Some body work and a full repaint will be in order one day when I have the money. I'm not sure how I feel about owning a purple Cadillac limo. If I do go ahead and repaint it, I'm thinking I'm going to have to go with black, or dark blue or something a little more formal and to my tastes. For now, I'm going to do some much needed mechanical freshening up to make it safe and roadworthy. I will try and polish out the paint as it is and see if I can get some luster back in it for the present moment.
The divider window is in perfect condition and works excellent.
Here are some BEFORE pictures of the interior...
As you can see, the back seat is brittle and splitting in several places and needs to be redone. Any suggestions on where to go for the material? The rest looks like I can get away with a deep cleaning and treatment of the wood.
Quote from: harry s on September 16, 2012, 10:12:05 AM
Andrew, What a Car! Bring it to the Potomac Region Professional Pride Show Oct 28, at Capital Cadillac in Greenbelt , MD. http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/forms/CLCPR.2012FallCarShow.Flyer.pdf
Harry
Harry, I'd love to go to that show as I'm a big fan of professional cars, but can't swing it this year. Heck, driving it 60 miles home probably wasn't even a good idea (Thankfully, I made it home!) Is that show an annual thing?
edit: I just read the flyer and see that it's a one time theme. But what a great idea!
Andrew, Our region is very fortunate in that Capital Cadillac makes it's facility and resources available for two annual shows. The Fall Show has been a themed show for the past number of years. See previous themed shows:
{http://www.clcpotomacregion.org/index.htm) and the Spring Show is in conjunction with a memoribilia auction.
Look forward to seeing your progress. If you decide to repaint my vote on color is deep blue.
Harry
The Maroon color looks good to me. I'd repaint it the factory maroon color.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffarm9.staticflickr.com%2F8452%2F7940296776_b31aecff51_b.jpg&hash=22f9b9d73c4e236a58d744d361e35d397c18747b)
I dug into the front passenger side brakes and pretty much found what I expected. The wheel cylinder was completely frozen. What I didn't plan for is the brake line to be more or less welded to the brake hose which I'm replacing too. Even with a line wrench, the threaded connector is starting to round out because it just won't budge. I'm letting some PB Blaster soak in overnight and hopefully I can break it loose without having to cut the brake line.
I replaced the first of all four shocks on that corner too. Of course, the nut on top was frozen onto the stud. I had to cut the metal plate that holds the bushing in place. Fortunately, the whole is large enough to slide the stud with the nut still on down through it. 1 down, 3 to go!
I also ordered a new high pressure power steering line because mine seems to be leaking all over the driver's side of the engine compartment. I'll replace the return lines too while I'm at it as they have seen better days. Anyone offhand know what type of ATF to use for the power steering pump?
I finished up the right front brake and replaced the left front shock and stabilizer bar bushings today.
I used a Dremmel tool to cut the top bushing off of the old shock and it dropped right out. Much easier than yesterday when I was monkeying around with it for hours.
I took the car for a test ride and filled the tires to the proper 28 psi and it's already driving noticeably better. Of course the brakes are 100% better. I flushed the brown brake fluid from the front lines. Now the car stops in a straight line when I brake as opposed to pulling hard to the left.
Great buy, and I know where you are coming from re the bad brakes.
The best way I have founds to "break" the flare-nut on a stubborn hose is to use the biggest shifter (Adjustable Spanner" to Americans), say a 12" one, and tighten it up tight onto the nut, and carefully apply pressure, making sure it is still tight.
This way, you are avoiding "Spanner Gap Spreading" as the large Shifter will have sufficient strength to keep the jaws from spreading.
Oh, and if the car is riding on Radial Tyres, I would be recommending a pressure well over 30 PSI. But, no more than 40 PSI. It is marvellous what the difference will be.
But, if they are the original tyres, and the car was sitting for a long time, I would be recommending that you change them immediately, no matter how much tread is on them.
For the Power Steering, use any of the Dexron Fluids from III upwards to VI.
Bruce. >:D
Bruce,
The tires are bias-ply and in need of replacing. I'm looking at www radials from Coker but they'll have to wait a bit as they aren't cheap. Until then, the car just drives around the block in my subdivision. So while I wait for roadworthy tires, I have a trans leak and power steering leak that need to be addressed so the car is ready to roll when I get them.
Thanks for the tip of what to use for the power steering pump.
I can never leave well enough alone...
I decided to change to change the coolant because who knows how old it is. Then I figured that it would be a good time to change the coolant and heater hoses because they all look past their prime. And I figure I should change the thermostat while I'm at it.
Then a bolt head breaks off the cylinder head water outlet pipe where the thermostat housing attaches. So I decide to pull it off to work on it easier. Then wouldn't you know it, both bolts going into the number 1 cylinder bank break off. I thought that if I unbolted the water pump, I could slide the water outlet pipe and the water pump straight off as a unit. I guess not, it seems there is a threaded portion on the water outlet pipe by the cylinder head. (Can anyone verify this for me?)
And just before this, the bottom bolt head for the generator mount broke off.
On the ones with the "studs" still there, I'm going to try the two nut method to try and back the bolts out. As far as the water outlet pipe, there's going to be some drilling. I'm hoping that I don't have to take the head off to get this taken care of!
It all started with a simple coolant change.
And to top it off, it looks like the exhaust manifold on the left side is cracked! I'm not looking forward to trying to beak those bolts loose.
I hammered and pryed the water outlet pipe off with the help of a friend who is a retired Cadillac mechanic. The water pump came out as well. Looks like a previous water pump change resulted in a broken bolt that was left in.
I also took a chance and disconnected the A/C line that ran over the top of the radiator becasuse the A/C compressor is really in the way. Upon disconnecting the line, it gave up one little last puff but was 99.99% empty.
With the A/C line out of the way, I disconnected the trans lines from the radiator and pulled it out of the car. I'm going to bring it in to have it tested. I'm hoping it just needs a flush and a paint job.
Compression check is next. Depending on what shows, and if I can get the broken studs out of the head will determine if I pull the heads.
The front engine cover might have to come off too because it's right there in the open and I know the timing chain is a weak point, so why not?
It's been a while since I've posted my progress. I'm still working on her.
I used heat and a bolt extractor to remove one broken water pipe bolt out of the left head and drilled out and retapped the other water pipe bolt hole on that left head as the bolt extractor just twisted off what was left of the exposed bolt.
The long bolt that ran through the alternator was completely corroded to the alternator and I wound up just breaking the bolt. The remaining threaded portion came out easy with a “back-out†drill bit as the actual threaded portion wasn’t seized.
The broken thermostat housing bolt came out easily with the boken bolt extractor.
I pulled the radiator and took it in where it tested poorly so I picked up a new one.
Compression was tested at 180, 170, 150, 160, 170, 170, 165, and 180 in cylinders 1-8 respectively. So I’m relieved that no internal engine work needs to be done.
My exhaust is swiss cheese and hodge podge patches. The manifold studs are rusted beyond the point of no return. The Y-Pipe was rusted through in a few areas. I just took it off with a Sawzall. Also found that the heat riser is rusted in the closed position.
Half of the driver's side exhaust manifold bolts are out. But for the remaining 3 bolts, the 9/16" socket is too big and the 1/2" socket is too small. 14 mm is too big and 13 mm is too small too. Not sure what to do besides pulling the head and working on them outside of the car where I can drill the heads of the bolts off and side the manifold off.
Motor mounts have been changed. The old ones were falling apart but didn't look that bad until I took them off and they were both rotten. The trans mount is next up when it arrives.
Oh boy, what a saga.
I can see you pulling the engine to get the exhaust manifold bolt threads out as you will probably have to either weld a good bolt onto the rusted head (after you have cleaned away the rust) or just grind off the head, and slide the manifold off.
If you take off the heads, then you will end up going deeper than you really wanted to.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 26, 2012, 02:03:57 AM
Oh boy, what a saga.
I can see you pulling the engine to get the exhaust manifold bolt threads out as you will probably have to either weld a good bolt onto the rusted head (after you have cleaned away the rust) or just grind off the head, and slide the manifold off.
If you take off the heads, then you will end up going deeper than you really wanted to.
Bruce. >:D
Absolutely correct. I'd like to avoid pulling the heads off at just about all cost. And as far as pulling the engine, the shop manual states that the "engine must be removed with transmission attached." I'd rather not even take either of the heads off as the compression is just fine.
I think I'll try and grind the bolt heads down. If I mess up the manifold, well, that's okay, it's already cracked and I have a good used one on the way.
The new motor mounts aren't bolted in yet and the engine is jacked up to get some extra room to play with for now.
Funny, in those first few days when the car was drivable, when I would give it gas other than like grandma would, the drive shaft was hitting the crossmember (I think) and making a horrendous noise. I thought it was the trans mount and here I find both motor mounts are completely rotted through. The engine was basically just setting in there by its own weight!
Here are some pictures of the car after I had cleaned it up but before I took it apart...
I don't think you have to remove the trans when removing the engine, as all you need to do is support the trans, and removing the Radiator gives you sufficient room to slip the engine forward a tad to allow you to lift it straight up.
Bruce. >:D
Everything is disconnected and all the bolts are out. The hood was removed today. Only thing left is to strap it up and pull it free from the trans and then up and out.
You're right Bruce, the engine CAN be pulled out without the transmission as long as the transmission is supported by a trans jack and the radiator is out of the car so you can pull the engine free of the transmission. I picked up a nice 800 lb rated trans jack from Harbour Freight on sale for around $110.
I can't wait to get it out of the engine bay. It'll be so much easier to work on.
Andrew are you still combing over this land yacht?
Im local to you (Gurnee IL) and would like to meet up at some point. I have spare 75 sedan.
blugg@msn.com
Jeff
I'm wondering how the progress is going. Eight months is a long time.
I have to say that in these cars it would be a real pain to attempt to pull the motor and trans as a unit. I did my old 1966 Calais just the engine and that in itself was a little but of a fight. Cadillac left a lot of room to access the trans bolts from the topside of the car. i would think they did it for a reason.
I have to say this is turning into quite a story and I also have to say I love the car. Hearses and limos just have an elegance all their own. Gonna keep checking in on this one.
wow, that's a beauty! i know what you mean when you say you weren't really looking for another car. in fact, i'm keeping one eye open for a series 75 myself. partial to the sedan, but i would take a limo if i had to. but i'm only looking for a '68. if anyone has a line on one, let me know.
thx
Carl
Checking in on this thread........an new news?
weather is still favorable......hope shes on the streets and not in a back corner of a barn.
Hey fellas,
I'm still around but haven't had much time to check back into the forum here lately.
Work stalled out on my '66. Winter rolled around, and it got too cold to work on it. Then spring rolled around and I was in full swing with a side business that I have. Before you know it, it's been 10 months!
As of late, I've had an ich to get back at it. I'm having it towed to a larger, heated garage tomorrow where I can work on it over the winter in comfort. I will post up my progress as I start digging back into it now that my business is winding down for the year.
After re-evaluating things, I've decided to leave the transmission alone. It worked fine when I drove it home and around town for those few days. The TH400 has a strong reputation for it's durability. Rebuilding it will add to the cost of this project and prolong the time it takes to get back on the road. A drain and refill with a new pan gasket and filter will be the extent of the trans work for now. Oh, and a new trans mount too.
My goal is to have it situated at my new garage and have the engine out by the end of this week. I'll keep everyone posted.
I agree on the leaving the tranny. If you put it up on a lift it's hardly any more difficult to pull the tranny from an assembled car as from a dismantled one, so if you find out later it is bad there's nothing lost (and if it's good you'll feel pretty darn smart.)
-mB
While the TH400 is a stout and reliable transmission, on a car that old, that's set up that long, I'd at least consider 'resealing' the transmission. Our Calais has been sitting for a while, and it now seems to be leaking out of every orifice possible on the transmission. When there's fluid in it, it shifts wonderfully, but sitting in the garage, it quickly empties itself. The last seal that seems to have cut loose is the tailshaft seal, which caused the transmission to 'bleed out' pretty well (it looked like a trail of blood coming out from under the car).
The external seals aren't that expensive to purchase, you just need good access to the transmission to remove and reinstall the new seals. While you have the engine out, I bet pulling the transmission out through the engine bay would be a piece of cake.
Good advice Gene. I think I will go that route.
Nothing worse than spending thousands of dollars and probably hundreds of hours of labor to finish up a project and have a car that leaves spots on your driveway.
Hope to have some new pictures up here soon of the progress.
Man what a find! That is absolutely beautiful. How do people just stash these things in a barn? You say you don't want to own a purple Caddy how about this pink one I own?
Quote from: pinkcaddy96 on December 13, 2013, 06:36:07 PM
Man what a find! That is absolutely beautiful. How do people just stash these things in a barn? You say you don't want to own a purple Caddy how about this pink one I own?
At some point these are just old cars whose cost to repair exceeds the value of the car. The owner just finds a place to park it thinking that they will fix it up later (which never happens). It stays there until one day the owner gets tired of looking at the car and someone else looks at it and decides that the car is unique enough to put the money into it to bring it back to life.
PinkCaddy, I like your ride.
beautiful car.
those model years of the 75's are really nice, somehow less limo-alike than many other modelyears,
Quote from: Andrew Armitage on October 03, 2012, 11:38:32 AM
I can never leave well enough alone...
I decided to change to change the coolant because who knows how old it is. Then I figured that it would be a good time to change the coolant and heater hoses because they all look past their prime. And I figure I should change the thermostat while I'm at it.
Then a bolt head breaks off the cylinder head water outlet pipe where the thermostat housing attaches. So I decide to pull it off to work on it easier. Then wouldn't you know it, both bolts going into the number 1 cylinder bank break off. I thought that if I unbolted the water pump, I could slide the water outlet pipe and the water pump straight off as a unit. I guess not, it seems there is a threaded portion on the water outlet pipe by the cylinder head. (Can anyone verify this for me?)
And just before this, the bottom bolt head for the generator mount broke off.
On the ones with the "studs" still there, I'm going to try the two nut method to try and back the bolts out. As far as the water outlet pipe, there's going to be some drilling. I'm hoping that I don't have to take the head off to get this taken care of!
It all started with a simple coolant change.
FWIW, the same thing happened to me today. About a month ago, I started spraying rust penetrant into the bolts and holes where my thermostat housing attaches to the water outlet pipe between the cylinder heads. I used a razor blade to chip away at the old gasket and sealant, plus some heat, to help the penetrant reach the bolts. Added more every week. Yesterday, I gently worked on the first bolt using only a small 1/4" ratchet and it came free. Same procedure on the second bolt, and pop - goes the bolt head.
With the housing off, I could finally see why the bolt shaft was frozen - a prior repairman had over applied gasket sealant all around the base of the bolt. Over the years, it had sealed like JB Weld - gluing the threads PLUS blocking the penetrant from ever reaching the rusty threads below. I scraped the surface clean, put down more penetrant plus heat and tapping. Only had about 1/4" protruding, so the two-nut method failed. Next used an Irwin bolt extractor, but it kept slipping. The logical next step was to simply unbolt the entire water outlet pipe from the cylinder heads and transfer it to the workbench for better access. But, fortunately, I stopped and read your post, and ditched that idea!
So, finally, had to drill out and retap. At least I could bolt the thermostat housing into position to use the empty hole to help guide the drill! I coated the new bolts with anti-seize, rather than gasket sealant. It's fixed now at least. A good example of how unknown, hidden conditions turn a 15 minute project into a four-hour ordeal.
Hope your 75 Sedan is in progress.
Regards, P. Nesbitt
Quote from: Eldo66 on June 09, 2014, 02:03:44 AMThe logical next step was to simply unbolt the entire water outlet pipe from the cylinder heads and transfer it to the workbench for better access. But, fortunately, I stopped and read your post, and ditched that idea!
So, finally, had to drill out and retap. At least I could bolt the thermostat housing into position to use the empty hole to help guide the drill! I coated the new bolts with anti-seize, rather than gasket sealant. It's fixed now at least. A good example of how unknown, hidden conditions turn a 15 minute project into a four-hour ordeal.
Hope your 75 Sedan is in progress.
Regards, P. Nesbitt
I'm glad to hear that I helped you out in a way.
The bolts that hold the water pipe to the heads were brutal. They had basically welded themselves to the pipe. One bolt had the head break off and then I wound up breaking it again between the pipe and the head. I had to take a punch and 3 lb hammer to knock out the stud left in the pipe which was held in with just corrosion (not threaded in there like I initially thought) and drill and retap the head.
I pulled the engine out but have yet to have time to clean it up. I spent some time cleaning / painting the engine compartment and pulling the front suspension apart (best time to freshen up all those old rock hard bushings) over the past few weeks. I'm going to pull the transmission out too to replace the seals.
Although the work on it has slowed, it has not stopped. I will try and post some more pictures up soon.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 26, 2012, 03:29:40 AM
I don't think you have to remove the trans when removing the engine, as all you need to do is support the trans, and removing the Radiator gives you sufficient room to slip the engine forward a tad to allow you to lift it straight up.
Bruce. >:D
Yes and if you leave the trans in the car remove the torque converter rather than leaving it hanging. Might as well install a front transmission seal while your there (>$10)
I been tooling around chicago an associated suburbs in the '66 75 sedan I drive hoping to get to stop by Plainfield to visit Andrew.
Quote from: blugg on August 27, 2014, 01:16:02 PM
I been tooling around chicago an associated suburbs in the '66 75 sedan I drive hoping to get to stop by Plainfield to visit Andrew.
Drop me an email at aarmit2email addresses not permitted if you ever want to stop by. The car is actually in my shop located in Minooka, IL, near I-80 and I-55.
Man that's my old stomping grounds, I was born and raised in Joliet
Occasionally I goto R&S Distribution (turbos) on Industrial in Minooka
Next run I make I'll give heads up & take The Boat
bump any fresh build / rebuild / restoration on this massive sled?
this available for sale?