Im sure some of you saw my post, asking what this car was worth. I now have it home, and am ready to start bringing it back to life, hence the resurrection thread. Usually these threads are full of pictures, but I will be trying to make videos of all of the progress. With that said, Check out the first video:
http://youtu.be/m1jAdE6V7Ag
I wish the player would come up when the url is added, because it looks a little better. Let me know what you think!
Ben
Very cool!
hats off to you for saving that car. I think it could be brought back to a very decent driver condition without going overboard.
Ben,
That great! The car is in good shape and I think it was well worth the money.
The most important thing is to have fun.
Great Video Ben. Id love to discuss your car with you as I am a fan of 56s, especially unusual ones like yours. Allante93jj@aol.com is my email address. Here in OKC I have a Mandan Red / Alpine White Fleetwood Sixty Special with the Eldorado 2x4 BBL engine.
Nice job getting her out, all the best, I think you got yourself a real gem here.
Again, Congratulations on saving the 56 Caddy. You'll have fun getting her going again, at the very least she'll make a great driver. Thanks for posting the first video!
Congratulations Ben! Great video!
You should start a restoration thread for us all to follow as you progress with the car.
Quote from: David Smith on September 27, 2013, 09:53:34 AM
Congratulations Ben! Great video!
You should start a restoration thread for us all to follow as you progress with the car.
I was thinking this was my resto thread... Did I post in the wrong section of the forum? If so, how do I move it?
Enjoyed the video.
The body is surprisingly solid. Glad the motor was not seized.
Data Plate Accessory Codes. E - EZ Eye Glass; H - Heater. Was hoping to see a Q - perhaps others more familiar with 1956 will have more info. You can order a build sheet from Allied Vaughan which will contain more detailed information.
Power Windows were standard equipment on the Sedan deVille.
Keep us posted on the progress, and best of luck with it.
Quote from: chstitans42 on September 27, 2013, 10:10:55 AM
I was thinking this was my resto thread... Did I post in the wrong section of the forum? If so, how do I move it?
The Admins moved it for you. So you are good now!
I am sooo pleased to see that you saved this car!
Quote from: ericdev on September 27, 2013, 11:08:18 AM
Enjoyed the video.
The body is surprisingly solid. Glad the motor was not seized.
Data Plate Accessory Codes. E - EZ Eye Glass; H - Heater. Was hoping to see a Q - perhaps others more familiar with 1956 will have more info. You can order a build sheet from Allied Vaughan which will contain more detailed information.
Power Windows were standard equipment on the Sedan deVille.
Keep us posted on the progress, and best of luck with it.
I am very glad it was not seized either! As for the Q on the trim tag, I have learned that the trim tag only holds body options, and engine options are on the build sheet, which I can get from Cadillac.
Quote from: David Smith on September 27, 2013, 11:44:41 AM
The Admins moved it for you. So you are good now!
I am sooo pleased to see that you saved this car!
I noticed that and thanks for putting it in the right section.
Also sorry about the video being so dark, I just wanted to get one up the first day of having the car. Hopefully the next ones will be better
Quote from: chstitans42 on September 27, 2013, 11:57:31 AM
I am very glad it was not seized either! As for the Q on the trim tag, I have learned that the trim tag only holds body options, and engine options are on the build sheet, which I can get from Cadillac.
Ben,
Actually you can find more details on your car without having the built sheet on-hand. As I mention on your previous post you can download the data and specs from the GM Heritage Center and also order the built sheet as Eric stated.
You can find color, upholstery and accessories info at http://www.rrrclc.org/color_database.htm (thanks to Ralph Messina).
You can check the engine serial aka VIN # stamped on the upper right hand corner of the cylinder block. The same # could be found on the frame right hand side bar just above the starter. It also can be found on the maintenance plate at the front driver pillar, if there.
Second would be the engine unit # this can be found stamped on the bell housing behind the left side cylinder block. If yours shows a “7_K†(7-letter-K) it is an Eldorado w/dual cabs no A/C, which could be in yours.
Last would be the transmission serial number, the plate is located behind the throttle and manual levers, a C56 would indicate a standard tranny, while a 56CE would be for Eldorado engines.
Good luck..!
I had a small amount of time to work on the Caddy today. I started to see how well the front bumper cleaned up, and even though it is not perfect I am happy with the results. I also went to the auto parts store and got everything I might need for a tune up.
I started with the factory fuel pump, and found out that one of the previous owners had added an electric fuel pump and had blocked off the original fuel pump mount with a cover. He also added a zip tie to the push rod to hold it up away from the cam shaft... Weird but we installed it correctly. All I need now is a fitting to go from the C curve fuel line to the glass filter.
I changed the oil and oil filter, and even though the oil was black, and had some sludge in it, there was no water in it what so ever, so that is good. I also added a quart of marvel mystery oil in with the oil in order to clean out what sludge is inside the motor, and Im sure there is a fair amount.
Since I had the battery in, and new oil I said what the heck, lets try to get the motor to at least start for a little bit. I got my dad to help spray carb cleaner down the carbs while I cranked the motor. The motor spun just fine, but it never did fire. We tried pulling a spark plug wire and grounding it on the exhaust manifold, and we did not get spark while the engine was turning over, so that will be the task for tomorrow, see why we have no spark.
Any ideas on the best way to trouble shoot the ignition system?
Thanks!
Ben Friend
Ben,
The points ignition system is straight forward to troubleshoot.
While cranking the engine the starter solenoid provides a direct +12v to the coil via the “yellow†wire at the terminal on the ballast resistor on the firewall. The black wire from the coil should be connected to this terminal
When the engine starts, the ignition switch provides the +12v from the “pink†wire at the opposite side of the ballast resistor. This will drop the voltage down to approximately +9V.
Since the car sat idle for a long time the points could well be weld shoot, checked them making sure the gap is set properly or better yet replace them to be 100% sure.
If voltage and points checked out the possible cause would be a bad coil.
You can download a wiring diagram at these sites (the 1957 is the same for 1956).
http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/4252-wiring-diagram-for-1957-cadillac-60-62-75-86-series.html
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Cadillac/MWireCadi65_3WD-034.jpg
Good luck..!
Quote from: J. Gomez on September 28, 2013, 09:30:19 AM
Ben,
The points ignition system is straight forward to troubleshoot.
While cranking the engine the starter solenoid provides a direct +12v to the coil via the “yellow†wire at the terminal on the ballast resistor on the firewall. The black wire from the coil should be connected to this terminal
When the engine starts, the ignition switch provides the +12v from the “pink†wire at the opposite side of the ballast resistor. This will drop the voltage down to approximately +9V.
Since the car sat idle for a long time the points could well be weld shoot, checked them making sure the gap is set properly or better yet replace them to be 100% sure.
If voltage and points checked out the possible cause would be a bad coil.
You can download a wiring diagram at these sites (the 1957 is the same for 1956).
http://www.auto-wiring-diagram.com/4252-wiring-diagram-for-1957-cadillac-60-62-75-86-series.html
http://www.oldcarmanualproject.com/tOCMP/wiring/5765wiring%20diagrams/Cadillac/MWireCadi65_3WD-034.jpg
Good luck..!
Great we will try this hopefully this weekend if not, next week. We also discovered that the previous owner had attached the red battery cable to ground and the black one to the starter. Seems like the last person who worked on this car didnt know what they were doing exactly.
Ben,
Well he was actually half correct..! :D
The negative side is the flat copper braided strap type while the positive is a black cable. If I recalled Cadillac switched to the red and black cables in the 1958. ???
Maybe he used a different battery and just grab a cable to get it going, but using red for the negative/ground side that is crazy. But anything and everything is possible. :o
I am still trying to get spark but am still having problems. I checked the wiring from the starter solenoid and there is a red (not yellow) wire that runs from here:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2F0ba8881b-62db-450e-b5f5-a8306786d3f8_zps7ae7248b.jpg&hash=86c53bb89ecd927490e5da0c9c522e36191758a7) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/0ba8881b-62db-450e-b5f5-a8306786d3f8_zps7ae7248b.jpg.html)
To here:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FWP_20130928_004_zps06102428.jpg&hash=49d4adafbed4ad51349ad713dff1d4e5b0e3aad2) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/WP_20130928_004_zps06102428.jpg.html)
With the key off, each side has no voltage, when turned to accessory, each side gets 12v and when turned to run, each side drops to 9v. The coil, cap and rotor are new and were swapped by me. With all this said and done, I still am getting no spark to the plugs. The only thing I have not changed is the points, but the ones on the car look like they are newer and the little arm does move back and forth.
Any help would be appreciated. Maybe the ignition switch in the dash was wired wrong by the previous owner? He did mess around there before I got the car...
Ben,
Assuming you have the original wiring the yellow would be the one going up to the solenoid “I†terminal, since it was hacked let’s take a different approach.
If you removed the two wires at the ballast resistor left side on the picture, the pink on the right should be coming from the ignition switch. If you turn the ignition switch “on†and you get +12v then all is ok.
Verify the red wire you removed from the ballast resistor goes to the solenoid. If that wire goes to the “I†terminal on the solenoid, when the solenoid is engaged (starter turning) you should get +12v on the “I†terminal at the solenoid and the same voltage should be present at the end of the red wire to the ballast.
Hope this will help in getting her started.
Quote from: J. Gomez on September 28, 2013, 10:28:00 PM
Ben,
Assuming you have the original wiring the yellow would be the one going up to the solenoid “I†terminal, since it was hacked let’s take a different approach.
If you removed the two wires at the ballast resistor left side on the picture, the pink on the right should be coming from the ignition switch. If you turn the ignition switch “on†and you get +12v then all is ok.
Yes the pink wire comes from the ignition, and has 12 volts when the key is turned to run. When it is turned to start the voltage drops to 9V
Verify the red wire you removed from the ballast resistor goes to the solenoid. If that wire goes to the “I†terminal on the solenoid, when the solenoid is engaged (starter turning) you should get +12v on the “I†terminal at the solenoid and the same voltage should be present at the end of the red wire to the ballast.
We checked continuity from the red wire on the starter solenoid to that resistor and there is continuity. This side acts the same as the other, 12v when in run, 9v when in start
Hope this will help in getting her started.
I will change the points out and see if that makes a difference and let you know what happens. I hope this motor does not turn out to be a dud.
Ben,
You have a PM from me.
Another quick video for you guys:
http://youtu.be/iiesSI0ypKI
Lovin the updates. Keep em coming! :D
Today I spent the hour of free time I had on the caddy. I finished cleaning the leather top dash pad. It was Very dry, and took alot of leather conditioner to get it back to decent looking. Im sure I will have to work on it a little more, but hopefully I can get it to a point where it will look good for a "driver" Caddy as mine will be.
I also pulled out all the fron carpet, and honestly the front floors are worse than I thought they were going to be... BUT all is not lost, the rear floors look like they have no holes and will need no patching!! You win some you lose some, in this case I guess it is a draw. Two big holes in the front is the same in my book as four small holes in all the floors. More videos to come I promise!
What brand of conditioner did you use?
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on September 30, 2013, 09:39:35 PM
What brand of conditioner did you use?
Bruce. >:D
Bruce if you say "Lather, Rinse, repeat" I'll smack you! LOL
IT RUNS!!!!
The Video Is Coming!
Quote from: David Smith on September 30, 2013, 09:52:29 PM
Bruce if you say "Lather, Rinse, repeat" I'll smack you! LOL
As long as it didn't start with "A" and end with "L", you should be okay.
Bruce. >:D
NEW VIDEO!
http://youtu.be/BCd57tXHZ4o
CONGRATULATIONS.
But, next time, put petrol down the carbies, NOT Aerostart.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on October 01, 2013, 09:52:05 PM
CONGRATULATIONS.
But, next time, put petrol down the carbies, NOT Aerostart.
Bruce. >:D
Next time we run the engine, it will be through the carbs with gasoline for sure. We just wanted to see if the engine would fire. One step at a time!
Does anyone have a good used gas tank that I can buy from them? the one in this car is totally trashed!!!
Got the Radiator in, and now I am working on rebuilding the dual carters I have on top of the motor. I got one all disassembled today, and I am thinking they will clean up real nice! The inside was actually much cleaner than I thought it would be. I had to loosen up a few small parts but they should be 100% when done. Stay tuned!
Also the leather cleaner and additive I used is called Lexol. It is sold in two bottles, the cleaner and also the conditioner. It is expensive but it seems to work!
I noticed in one of you videos you were polishing the bumpers with some product , just wondering what it was ??
Another New VIDEO!!!
http://youtu.be/7kdNTexmDWk
IT RUNS SOME MORE!
http://youtu.be/PGCYoc9ihMw
Not a good morning for the old Caddy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y8CsT1Dfb7M
I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke, she's been sitting along time, I would drive her and get her up to speed and get the gum and carbon blown out of there.
Quote from: N Kahn on October 08, 2013, 03:37:41 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the smoke, she's been sitting along time, I would drive her and get her up to speed and get the gum and carbon blown out of there.
I agree. I'd get it road ready before worrying about the smoking.
While I was waiting on the compression tester to come in the mail (hopefully tomorrow), I decided not to waste any time and clean up the white paint on the caddy. The white roof and tops of the doors was about the only paint that could even be saved. Ill have to paint the rest of the car. Take a look at the before and after pics:
BEFORE:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FDSC09174_zps5a9f40a7.jpg&hash=56fcddef273eabe3a708790520f0dd618c8d3b3f) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/DSC09174_zps5a9f40a7.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FDSC09464_zps1be2f672.jpg&hash=199a1fcf59a545034e996eed618438bc1c522c70) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/DSC09464_zps1be2f672.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FDSC09465_zps49675e22.jpg&hash=6228fc2a97b89af1137378cbbe0f81dd9b1151c8) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/DSC09465_zps49675e22.jpg.html)
AFTER
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_014_zps5ad0319c.jpg&hash=2a591690b5b8baa573e297f987313102e101ab0f) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_014_zps5ad0319c.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_015_zps795f8af1.jpg&hash=5aa872d25613734ae19b47f3e5ceb375d70d629c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_015_zps795f8af1.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_012_zpsd1714a66.jpg&hash=b0bca773c46c7458cffe7ba81b885abb11da8130) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_012_zpsd1714a66.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_010_zpsfcc41d9c.jpg&hash=6b502419de7b17ad16259bfcde53d3dfaf870c2d) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_010_zpsfcc41d9c.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_008_zps5642c13e.jpg&hash=1191afc1f2b7c4b25f3c5956bf135ed5155f043a) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_008_zps5642c13e.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_006_zps6d9b64c4.jpg&hash=2731622c78a47c1304593aacb73608eafa20a594) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_006_zps6d9b64c4.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_005_zpsfd3a41f6.jpg&hash=561b0557315198240e58f466d63c7eba8d5f00aa) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_005_zpsfd3a41f6.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_004_zpsa4e480ab.jpg&hash=802f6c286cf4b055366654fe5425a82cd5f5cfe7) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_004_zpsa4e480ab.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131008_009_zpsd1ef744e.jpg&hash=28c026b4abda09592d9aac35df86c92ae0e8be90) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131008_009_zpsd1ef744e.jpg.html)
Looking good so far! I hope you plan to stick with the Maharani maroon. So few Cadillacs were painted that color.
Quote from: Walter Youshock on October 10, 2013, 10:04:07 AM
Looking good so far! I hope you plan to stick with the Maharani maroon. So few Cadillacs were painted that color.
Believe it or not, this 56 was painted Mandan Red. I know in the pics it looks darker, but its just the red is really really dirty and faded. Also, it has been repainted once in its life so it is not original paint.
Here are the findings from today. I wanted to pull the valve covers to see what I was working with, and to also help me find TDC on each piston to do the leak down test... Looks like Ill be waiting to do tha test, seeing I have two valve that are stuck open, and some more issues to deal with.
Anyone know how to replace the spring retainers that are broken? Also how to determine he condition of the cam shaft and the lifters? I hope nothing down deeper is worn, but I wont hold my breath.
Number 8 cylinder
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131011_001_zpsf84a6c4e.jpg&hash=2d5fcd89a26333fd52da4433b35a88af2ccb781c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131011_001_zpsf84a6c4e.jpg.html)
Number 2 cylinder
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131011_002_zpsc39587a9.jpg&hash=133e35a87a4b3ae7228db2ed958ae72026635071) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131011_002_zpsc39587a9.jpg.html)
Number 3 cylinder
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131011_003_zpsb8209b6c.jpg&hash=81d8e9f686fe9f224180383c8ce354953ea6d7d7) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131011_003_zpsb8209b6c.jpg.html)
Ben,
Man that is a really a sick puppy..! I would not be surprised if there is more internal damage from just looking at these pictures. You can gain access to the hydraulic lifter by removing the intake manifold.
Sorry to say but it is time to call your local machine shop. Not sure if you know City Motor Supply in Harry Hines.
Good luck..!
Boy, never seen that before.
I personally, would be going deeper into the engine to see just what else is wrong.
But, the retainers can be changed whilst the head is still on the engine. The workshop manual describes how to do it. But, as Jose says, parts have to come off to access the lifters.
Bruce. >:D
Bad news boys. I ran the cylinder leak down test this morning and these are the numbers.
#1 at 90 PSI is at 40%
#2 at 90 PSI is at 20%
#3 at 90 PSI is at 30%
#4 at 90 PSI is at 40%
#5 at 90 PSI is at 45%
#6 at 90 PSI is at 30%
#7 at 90 PSI is at 40%
#8 at 90 PSI is at 40%
All 8 cylinders have compressed air coming out of the intake manifold at the oil fill cap, meaning the main problem is piston rings and or cylinder walls.
I dont have the money to pay for an engine rebuild, so at this point I am undecided on the next course of action.
New tank went in yesterday:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20131019_001_zps7e86beec.jpg&hash=8562cdd402ce18207bf47488ec882ed879091310) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20131019_001_zps7e86beec.jpg.html)
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Awesome stuff thus far! Sorry to hear about the engine.
I am having trouble with getting the valve spring retainers off the valve springs. I finally got the spring compressor tool, and it works very well. The only problem is that once I get it compressed, that valve starts to move up and down and the end wont pop out of the keepers/retainer. I really do not want to pull the heads. I have heard of putting rope inside the cylinder to give the valve something to push against. I am hoping to get a few pointers from you guys.
Thanks!
Ben,
You could inject compressed air into the cylinder while both valves are closed. This should hold the valves while you used the tool. Just make sure all spark plugs are off, easy to turn the crank shaft and also allows for venting. Also there is no need to apply a large psi volume, just enough to keep the valves from sliding down.
Other folks may have additional tips..!
Good luck..!
Considering pulling the intake and heads. Other than new head and intake gaskets, is there anything else I will need to buy if I go that route? Do I have to buy new bolts to hold on the heads?
Also in the mean time, I want to paint the valve covers, intake and heads the correct Cadillac Colors. Does anyone have any pointers on where to get paint? Does a normal auto parts store have the right colors?
Bill Hirsch should have the correct engine paint.
http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EE-QUART&variation=CAD%20DRK%20BL (http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=EE-QUART&variation=CAD%20DRK%20BL)
#8
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#6
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#4
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#2
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#1
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#3
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#5
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#7
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Question of the week:
Should I get the heads professionally rebuilt since I have them off, OR should I just replace the broken valve spring retainers and re assemble?
Quote from: chstitans42 on October 27, 2013, 06:26:59 PM
Question of the week:
Should I get the heads professionally rebuilt since I have them off, OR should I just replace the broken valve spring retainers and re assemble?
Rebuild them now if you've got the $. Replace the exhaust seats (I think) so you can run unleaded gas. Just my opinion.
I would be having them rebuilt, and have inserts fitted to the Exhaust Valves to counteract valve recession due to Unleaded Petrol.
You will probably find that they also require valve guides as well.
Bruce. >:D
Here are a few pics of some progress. Plans are to pull the drive train tomorrow, but in the mean time I have began the cosmetic resto of the accessories on the engine. The first pic shows the paint a lighter color of blue, but the color is more like the second pic.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FDSC09658_zps89b46125.jpg&hash=556b91388a7e571ddb744387e9f5e1d99d2f252c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/DSC09658_zps89b46125.jpg.html)
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NEW VIDEO!!
http://youtu.be/qzvpePqEOf4
Oh dear, not looking very good at all.
Seeing as the video was taken before you pulled the heads off, what was the condition of the heads and valves, guides, etc.?
Bruce. >:D
Another new video
http://youtu.be/OUqwZgxNTKw
Another New Video
http://youtu.be/L4mJAqfE4X4
Boy, sure looked like you were tempting fate by pulling down on the motor to raise the Transmission to clear the radiator support.
That hoist looked to be over weight, and adding extra didn't look good.
But, thankfully, everyone survived, even the globe on the door motor.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: chstitans42 on November 01, 2013, 10:52:53 AM
Here are a few pics of some progress. Plans are to pull the drive train tomorrow, but in the mean time I have began the cosmetic resto of the accessories on the engine. The first pic shows the paint a lighter color of blue, but the color is more like the second pic.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FDSC09658_zps89b46125.jpg&hash=556b91388a7e571ddb744387e9f5e1d99d2f252c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/DSC09658_zps89b46125.jpg.html)
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That does not look like Cadillac blue. Probably ford blue. Cadillac blue is available, and if you are concerned about authenticity, I would make sure to paint it with the correct blue.
Enjoyed the videos. Good luck with the car.
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 03, 2013, 06:14:42 PM
Boy, sure looked like you were tempting fate by pulling down on the motor to raise the Transmission to clear the radiator support.
That hoist looked to be over weight, and adding extra didn't look good.
But, thankfully, everyone survived, even the globe on the door motor.
Bruce. >:D
It is a two ton hoist and has worked well every time we have used it.
From what I have seen of those types of hoists, they have the SWL listed on the side of the main lifting beam. I woulds have thought that the 2 Ton limit would have been when the peg was in the hole closest to the pivot point.
She was sure bending in the extension.
Bruce. >:D
Tue, but extended all the wat out, it says half ton, which is 1000 lbs. I dont think half the engine and trans weighs that much. now if I was using a one ton hoist, it would be different
Well, the engine complete weighs in at 702 Lbs, and the Trans is awfully heavy as well, and taking off the heads, and intake manifold will reduce the weight, plus adding the weight of the person pulling down on the front of the motor to lift the trans to clear, you are getting possible over the 1/2 Ton.
But, as the SWL is always less than the actual breaking strain, you would have been okay. But, only just.
Bruce. >:D
Quote from: The Tassie Devil(le) on November 04, 2013, 10:21:07 PM
Well, the engine complete weighs in at 702 Lbs, and the Trans is awfully heavy as well, and taking off the heads, and intake manifold will reduce the weight, plus adding the weight of the person pulling down on the front of the motor to lift the trans to clear, you are getting possible over the 1/2 Ton.
But, as the SWL is always less than the actual breaking strain, you would have been okay. But, only just.
Bruce. >:D
That is very good to know. I'll be considering leaving the top end off when the engine goes back in the car to save weight and assemble it all in the engine bay. Im amazed that the engine weighs 702 by its self! Anyone know what the transmission weighs?
Some numbers off the pulled drivetrain:
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FDSC09676_zps3dbe8245.jpg&hash=5c9cb00227c247b2702775877c4c8869ab05e953) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/DSC09676_zps3dbe8245.jpg.html)
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Tear Down Video
http://youtu.be/E0OMZRt6Z80
You have the correct Eldorado transmission "CE". Pretty cool.
David
Update: I dropped off the engine at the rebuilders today. The slated day for the motor to be done is Jan 1st so we will see how it all goes!
Also here are the pics of the brake booster. Can someone help me identify which one it is?
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FRandom%2520Forum%2520Post%2520Pics%2FWP_20131115_004_zps8f848533.jpg&hash=b214c298fec34701297f5f01876d927a20994d96) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/Random%20Forum%20Post%20Pics/WP_20131115_004_zps8f848533.jpg.html)
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Small update:
Got the roof rail weather stripping ordered and four brand new floor pans ordered as well. I will show in the next video why the floors of this car are so rusty, yet the body, trunk and frame are in great condition. The answer is old weather stripping, that had huge holes and gaps in it. Just so you know, weather stripping for this car is crazy expensive, so it better be good quality! More updates soon!
http://youtu.be/eB32Ol9_FOY
If it's not being too inquisitive (nosey) just curious - how much does a 365 Cadillac rebuild run these days?
Enjoying the progress.
Does anyone have a lead on a good transmission shop in the DFW area that will take on this trans? Most are saying it is too old. Thanks!
Ben,
It would be easier to hit the power ball than to find a trans shop locally. ;D
I’ve try it with no luck so I tackle the jobs myself, results still TBD as the tranny is not yet mate with the engine pending for me to start the paint job.
Maybe someone from our local chapters North or Central Texas may have some leads.
Good luck..!
Hey Ben,
Good Afternoon!
I found the trail of updates on the 1956 Cadillac Sedan de Ville today and am impressed! I'm glad you are in the process of saving her for the future!
I'm a Cadillac La Salle Club member in Charlotte, North Carolina, but grew up in Garland, Texas. I'd suggest you try to reach Wilson Auto for the transmission. They have a website, as follows:
http://www.wilsonauto.com/classic-car-repair/transmission/
They may be reached at : (972) 271-3579
They are very reputable and work on Classic car transmissions. I have no idea as to cost, but I am sure they are competitive with pricing.
Let me know if you need anything else.
I've never had one that old, but have owned dozens upon dozens of Cadillacs from the 1980's over the years. I look forward to having a '50's Cadillac soon!
Regards,
Travis Dowell
Quote from: tradow1 on January 05, 2014, 12:39:24 PM
Hey Ben,
Good Afternoon!
I found the trail of updates on the 1956 Cadillac Sedan de Ville today and am impressed! I'm glad you are in the process of saving her for the future!
I'm a Cadillac La Salle Club member in Charlotte, North Carolina, but grew up in Garland, Texas. I'd suggest you try to reach Wilson Auto for the transmission. They have a website, as follows:
http://www.wilsonauto.com/classic-car-repair/transmission/
They may be reached at : (972) 271-3579
They are very reputable and work on Classic car transmissions. I have no idea as to cost, but I am sure they are competitive with pricing.
Let me know if you need anything else.
I've never had one that old, but have owned dozens upon dozens of Cadillacs from the 1980's over the years. I look forward to having a '50's Cadillac soon!
Regards,
Travis Dowell
I will have to call them in the morning and see what they say. Hopefully it will not be too much!
Small update for today. I called around a few transmission shops and had one of two results:
1. They do not work on anything this old
2. They wanted like $3500 to even consider it.
I had the same results until I called a friend who referred me to a retired Dallas Transmission builder named Irby Westmorland. He used to have a transmission shop near downtown Dallas and worked there for forty years until the city bought his land. He said he has build hundreds of these Caddy trasmissions and even refuses to use the Chinese parts. He quoted me $1200 to $1500 to do a total rebuild on it. Does any one know of him? He is the best lead I have so far and will go with him.
Ben,
It seems you have received similar quotes as I did way back from several trans shops around town. ;D
From your comments it looks like Mr. Westmorland is an “old fart†who knows how to spell Hydramatic/Jetaway. I can tell you I had nothing but great luck with old farts like him, since I’m getting there myself. :D
If he quoted you $1200 - $1500 and he supplies the parts, you hit the jackpot. Most likely he will go with the Fastco master kit which I about $340 so the rest would be time and labor. 8)
Just go and check him out probably he may had set shop at his garage, and he has the proper tools to get it done.
Good luck..!
Hey guys I am looking for some hard to find parts! Please watch this video and let me know if you have any of them. Thanks
http://youtu.be/eHzyNBkYWp0
Hey Ben,
Sorry my lead for Wilson Auto for you didn't pan out, but sounds as if Westmorland is the ticket. I would definitely jump on it, as you already have. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress. Watched the latest video but don't have any of the parts you need for the '56, but will check around and advise.
Travis
Quote from: tradow1 on January 09, 2014, 07:55:46 PM
Hey Ben,
Sorry my lead for Wilson Auto for you didn't pan out, but sounds as if Westmorland is the ticket. I would definitely jump on it, as you already have. Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress. Watched the latest video but don't have any of the parts you need for the '56, but will check around and advise.
Travis
Hey it is all good. Most leads are dead ends anyways. If you do find some parts for me, that would be GREAT.
Found a 1955 penny under the sound barrier inside my '56 Caddy. Pretty cool considering that it probably was put there by an assembly line worker, and has not moved from that spot for 58 years
Started the rust repair today
http://youtu.be/SVa98wuxfUo
Good job Ben. Enjoy watching the progress.
Mike
Another video
http://youtu.be/9q7Zj_P8-6E
A little bit of inspiration that I found on ebay. It is an exact clone of my car.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2F3_zps5898dd60.jpg&hash=65bfd33c86b6d026562b06bcbc61931e0ca57560) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/3_zps5898dd60.jpg.html)
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So in other good news, I got my transmission back from the rebuilder, and after a new coat of paint it will be ready to throw in the car. I just have to wait on the radiator to be rebuilt and the engine show to finish up. My goal is running and driving dependably by the end of May!
Trans is done!
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More painting done yesterday. Sadly I forgot to take pics of the oil filter canister and power steering pump all painted and looking new again...
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What a great resto blog. I like the fact that you are on a budget and must try to make your $ go as far as possible. There are many of us who can learn from the solutions you have come to. Keep the reports coming!
Vintage Paul
Another Day hard at work
http://youtu.be/fbJJAP0GPcg
Preparing for the engine, which will be coming soon
http://youtu.be/_0uKcFkgdAs
http://youtu.be/zkTXF_0IDCE
I pulled the drums off the car to check the brakes and see what I was going to have to work with, and the only thing that bothered me is this driver's side spindle. These marks catch my fingernail when moved across them. Should I replace it? or do you think I can get by using this spindle?
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FWP_20140308_001_zps0e472ec3.jpg&hash=3f4dfe2a3144e8a0bcabbdff2a1ad895c828765c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/WP_20140308_001_zps0e472ec3.jpg.html)
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Those marks show that at one stage in the vehicles' life, it had a seized outer bearing, and the inner cone turned on the shaft.
If you cannot get another stub, the old one can be repaired at a good machinist shop by turning off the bad part of the stub and inserting a sleeve to bring it back to specifications.
Or, if a lot of it is still in spec, which I doubt, as the underside (load bearing) will have more wear, rendering it out of alignment, you could install the cone with a Bearing Mounting substance like Loctite Super Bearing Mount.
Bruce. >:D
PS. I have seen worse that have taken a bearing and still worked.
Ben,
I spotted this while digging around looking for ignition parts. It's a video of a '56 like yours. A little more inspiration.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XMuCOtlHjTY
http://youtu.be/9xw5KshmcTk
New Video with new tires
http://youtu.be/rAFUWvWxPDQ
I really enjoyed your videos! Great work getting it running. All the best in your exciting restoration.
Since I had sourced out already all the brake parts, I decided to get the brake MC and booster done by a guy local to me named Jose Gomez, a member of the Mid-Century Cadillac Forum, and fellow dfw 1956 Cadillac owner. Here is his peliminary report. Pics to come.
Good news, so-so news and bad news…!
The good news, the unit arrived intact. The rubber gasket for the air cleaner is cracked at both side center, this is about normal for all the units I worked on. The air filter would be clean and the same one put back.The inside of the M/C was in good shape picture, although you know the cap is the wrong one. Just a pointer..!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FIMG_1147_zps7189be4b.jpg&hash=72c9ce4b61e6f66b5efa1a6d7380db74bdd5bfcf) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/IMG_1147_zps7189be4b.jpg.html)
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The so-so news;
The booster front power piston plate look in good shape the air hose is also in good shape. Now the power piston lather band is in real bad shape, not sure if it could be salvageable, gunk on the back face of the band and at the rear of the power piston.
The inside of the booster looked ok, just a bit dirty and small area with corrosion, it could be cleaned and rust honed.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FIMG_1154_zps2bfc98eb.jpg&hash=4090f1682cf663b34e036c3a4048d32517d4ed42) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/IMG_1154_zps2bfc98eb.jpg.html)
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The bad news (??? It could changed once I open the M/C)
The M/C is in bad shape the rear nut has some rust (ignored the rag had to cover the hole due to brake fluid leaking). You can also see it on the back of the booster were the M/C bolts on with the rust.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FIMG_1157_zps30107dec.jpg&hash=ff589cd7f7d3f3512ffaabb7b2cf78532e844fd8) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/IMG_1157_zps30107dec.jpg.html)
These are so far the preliminary steps I’ve done on the disassembly.
One note the brake fluid inside the M/C was real bad, black and with gunk. With that in mind there is a possibility the inside of the M/C may have more corrosion. I hope that none of the items on the attached drawing 28, 29, 30, 31, 33 are in fair shape to be clean and de-rust.
I’ll be disassembling the M/C tomorrow and see the condition of these pieces, more to follow.
Another update from Jose!
Took the M/C apart today and although it had a lot of corrosion and gunk inside I was able to clean and bead blaster it with good results. The parts I was concerned about yesterday were in good shape.
Lots of cleaning on both the M/C and the booster canister, both got painted semi gloss black on one side waiting for it to dry to get the rest.
The vacuum valve rubber valve was in good shape, clean and tested good.
Not much beside the disassembling, cleaning and painting.
I will try to get the M/C hopefully today if not maybe tomorrow. As for the power piston that one will be tackled once everything is back on the M/C, so more to come.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FMy%2520Classic%2520Cars%2F1956%2520Cadillac%2520Sedan%2520Deville%2FIMG_1159_zps97ada099.jpg&hash=5fdb52968f086994e23c43cefc4ad07b36005982) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/My%20Classic%20Cars/1956%20Cadillac%20Sedan%20Deville/IMG_1159_zps97ada099.jpg.html)
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Hi Ben,
Any news on your project?
Would love the hear how you proceed!
Best,
Nicolas
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JNjxknpv_hg
Hi Ben,
Ah nice. A new video!
Yeah, sad to hear that the engine is still at the shop.
Any progress on the brakes?
Regarding rubber: I think steele should have most of them: http://www.steelerubber.com
For example part Nr. 70-0703-56 and 70-0544-73
And you are right, better replace all the rubbers. I had to replace all the rubbers on my convertible too. Luckily, no water made it to the interior, but my door panels were wet and hence the pressed wood was all swollen and wavy.
Best regards,
Nicolas
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zzF75zHl8CM
Hey Ben, for a couple cans of aerosol I think it looks great. Makes it shine now. Any word on the motor?
Keep up the good work.
-Gavin
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VsLJlR5qTFE
http://youtu.be/iGwS9-KhXQg
Hey Ben. Sorry to hear that happened to you. You got off pretty lucky with the rest of the interior. When I first got my 57 it tried to kill me. The previous owner had the timing way out of whack and backfired through the carb. The carb was on fire, I scrambled to find a rag then the rag caught on fire......Just trying to say your not alone. Projects aren't always smooth sailing.
-Gavin
http://youtu.be/y_DwVV2zqpo
This video previously contained a copyrighted audio track. Due to a claim by a copyright holder, the audio track has been muted. :(
Video fixed. Sorry guys!
http://youtu.be/1g2Ggz01iuo
“The clowns who are doing your engine..!†;)
Just make sure you do not get any surprise trinkets from the “clowns†when you pick it up from them. ;D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HOqarJ28HI4
http://youtu.be/gLEfexdxuLQ
Thanks for the update Ben!
I got the shoes fixed today and the oil pump rebuilt. Im sure I could have gotten by with using all the old gears inside the pump, but figured I might as well since I have it out. I also read that the new spring in the kit is stronger than the one that the car came with (it was two whole coils longer) So I used the original spring again.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yRh0aRNKjJM
yeah, luckily I could avoid having to reopen the brakes.
My service manual for 68 has a quite detailed list of instructions.
From which brand is the brake hardware? (springs and such)
Ben,
Just a note on the brakes..!
I was checking the brake gap per the Service Manual and was not able to get them properly set. So I had to redo mine a few months back after my last complete overhaul.
You will notice there is a slot on the drums; this is used to insert the gauge to gap both pads around the drum. The Service Manual recommends an adjustment in page 7-9 under major adjustments. Although time consuming I was able to get them properly set.
Just a hint..!
Quote from: J. Gomez on September 24, 2014, 12:37:45 PM
You will notice there is a slot on the drums; this is used to insert the gauge to gap both pads around the drum. The Service Manual recommends an adjustment in page 7-9 under major adjustments. Although time consuming I was able to get them properly set.
So you mean the star wheel?
It is a lot easier to do a "first" adjustment while not having the drum on. Afterwards you can't see and you need to wiggle around with a screw driver and piece of wire. The idea is to lift the adjuster lever to be able to turn the star wheel in any direction necessary. After that, a few backwards stops will get them properly adjusted. If not (that happened to me) you need to adjust the star wheel again. My star wheel is probably bad, hence manual adjustments needed.
Quote from: DeVille68 on September 24, 2014, 01:22:31 PM
So you mean the star wheel?
It is a lot easier to do a "first" adjustment while not having the drum on. Afterwards you can't see and you need to wiggle around with a screw driver and piece of wire. The idea is to lift the adjuster lever to be able to turn the star wheel in any direction necessary. After that, a few backwards stops will get them properly adjusted. If not (that happened to me) you need to adjust the star wheel again. My star wheel is probably bad, hence manual adjustments needed.
Nicolas,
No the slot is on the face of the drum itself (facing the wheel). I’m not sure how far Cadillac had these places on the drums; I believe it will not be applicable in the 1968.
Quote from: J. Gomez on September 24, 2014, 01:37:31 PM
Nicolas,
No the slot is on the face of the drum itself (facing the wheel). I’m not sure how far Cadillac had these places on the drums; I believe it will not be applicable in the 1968.
ah, yes. The slot is on the backing plate. But the idea is the same. My 68 Caddy has the slot in the drum itself.
http://youtu.be/8JTqyZ0XZ8M
I really respect what You are doing , Your reward will be a superrior running absolutely stunning 1956 Sedan DeVille. A model and Year I have admired since I was a child. I am 60.
Ben!
Your work is awesome! I'm going to be ready to pick back up with my project this spring and I am continually reminded of the feeling of satisfaction you must be getting while bringing this car back out from under that tree!!! Keep up the good work man!
http://youtu.be/GjtnVWW-Lf8
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http://youtu.be/RGF133ta1qU
Not sure how it's supposed to look as I mainly work on mid 60's -69, but I get all of my lines from Inline tube. Link to '56:
http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Lines/Web%20Line%20Listings/CA-CAT-02.htm
(http://inlinetube.com/Preformed%20Lines/Web%20Line%20Listings/CA-CAT-02.htm)
so they may have the various lines you need.
Chuck
http://youtu.be/k6wpIV6n1-0
Engine parts are looking awesome!
When is the engine block supposed to come back from the builder?
http://youtu.be/xPVNRSaUVZU
Ben,
I have watched and enjoyed all your videos to date, and congratulate you on your work. It looks like all your work has been done outside of your garage. Do you use a car cover or is the weather not a factor? I am in Maryland and my '67 is also outside, but the weather here is a factor so I have not been able to do much since I got my car in November.
What are your future plans for the rust around the back window? Keep up the good work.
Christopher Winter
Ben,
Want to echo Christopher's note of appreciation regarding your excellent videos-- your narratives are full of enthusiasm and newly discovered expertise for vintage cars that we own or have owned and loved for decades. Hearing a young man with your quality of technical problem solving, and your ability to find joy in all that you are crafting and creating is certainly wonderful for us.
Ben, please don't hesitate to ask questions as you move forward on your rebuild... there's so much experience and expertise in this club, and dozens of folks will help you avoid major issues if you ask. Some of the challenges are related to the 1956 Cadillac... the "Jet Away" transmission can be an issue... also tire pressure inflation.. and then your decision to change over to electronic ignition... (some members have had issues with these after market innovations)...again, please don't hesitate to ask. Best regards for a successful new year... James
Quote from: savemy67 on January 02, 2015, 10:48:08 PM
Ben,
I have watched and enjoyed all your videos to date, and congratulate you on your work. It looks like all your work has been done outside of your garage. Do you use a car cover or is the weather not a factor? I am in Maryland and my '67 is also outside, but the weather here is a factor so I have not been able to do much since I got my car in November.
What are your future plans for the rust around the back window? Keep up the good work.
Christopher Winter
The real issue is the car is too long for most garages, and at this point, the Corvette is the better fit for the garage. With that in mind, I have spent the $$ in order to get the weather stripping all replaced knowing itll be outside for a while. The paint is shot already so I am not worried much about that, and I plan on getting a cover for the dash and maybe steering wheel.
Weathet when it come to working on the car is a BIG factor. In the summer I have an umbrella that I use to keep the heat at bay, BUT that only goes so far. In the winter it is the cold and wet weather that keeps me from working on it.
The back window I plan on just leaving until the times comes to paint the car.
Quote from: James Landi on January 03, 2015, 02:41:19 PM
Ben,
Want to echo Christopher's note of appreciation regarding your excellent videos-- your narratives are full of enthusiasm and newly discovered expertise for vintage cars that we own or have owned and loved for decades. Hearing a young man with your quality of technical problem solving, and your ability to find joy in all that you are crafting and creating is certainly wonderful for us.
Ben, please don't hesitate to ask questions as you move forward on your rebuild... there's so much experience and expertise in this club, and dozens of folks will help you avoid major issues if you ask. Some of the challenges are related to the 1956 Cadillac... the "Jet Away" transmission can be an issue... also tire pressure inflation.. and then your decision to change over to electronic ignition... (some members have had issues with these after market innovations)...again, please don't hesitate to ask. Best regards for a successful new year... James
The trasmission I had rebuilt by Irby Westmooreland here in Fort Worth TX. He has been building these things for decades, and did the one for Gas Monkey Garage. (remember the pink 55 they ruined?) I appreciate you willingness to help, and we both know that I sure need it!! Any info you can pass along to me about the electronic ignition? I heard it was amazing compared to the original points style stuff, (Which I have worked on, but want something I dont always have to fiddle with)
Quote from: chstitans42 on January 03, 2015, 06:45:46 PM
Any info you can pass along to me about the electronic ignition? I heard it was amazing compared to the original points style stuff, (Which I have worked on, but want something I don't always have to fiddle with)
I use http://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless_se_mainpage.htm (http://www.lectriclimited.com/breakerless_se_mainpage.htm)
One of the big reasons is I don't want to mess/fiddle with either. I realize points are easy to work on too, but I had an issue on one of my cars a long time ago, where they were stuck closed and I had to file. Never looked back after that and using electronic now for all cars. My dad gave me a dwell meter a long time ago, but I can't recall the last time I ever used.
I carry a spare Breakerless LE that I throw in the car I may take on long trip, say Hershey, otherwise I would use AAA..but never had to use for the classics ;) Some of my friends use Pertronix instead, but I like the LE as it's all hidden.
When I started driving cars did not have points...but I know some of the old school guys/gals prefer as the parts are cheap maybe, or they may be used to...but I'll let others comment.
Not sure if will work on '56 as it's advertised as "...designed to convert all 1957-74 GM V8 engines equipped with window-style distributor cap, screw-on type rotor, stock coil, and single or dual points, to solid-state electronic ignition.", so you may have to check with them.
Oh, I have watched all of your videos too...nice work on car and the videos!!
Thanks, Chuck
A couple of weeks ago, I installed the Pretronix set up on my 58 Brougham. The instructions said to pull the distributor, so I did. The installation was pretty straightforward, but I had to remove the drive gear as there was to much up/down play in the shaft. The kit provides washers for this. The pin that holds the gear on is swaged on both ends, so I had to grind off one end and knock out the pin to remove the gear. All was good except trying to find a pin/rivet to replace the original one. I could not the pin/rivet at any local store, so I settled on a roll pin the correct diameter (0.188) as went with that. It is in there good, so feel it is a good repair.
The car started and I timed it a couple day ago. No road time yet as the weather in MI is crummy now.
David
I mentioned that brand of aftermarket electronic ignition because there have been several threads recently regarding product failures. Nothing conclusive, but some feel that the system cooks itself, if the driver inadvertently leaves the ignition on while listening to the radio, etc...there were several frustrated members who complained about the product.
I mention tire pressure because our old gals generally called for low tire pressures... 24 front 22 rear... additionally (accepted) tire pressure truly degrades the ride... I suspect this topic has been discussed in the past, but for us NEWBIES, I think it's important.
I'm glad you've had the "Jet Away" rebuilt. I've owned two 56 Cadillacs...never had a tranny problem, but then I always drove my cars very tenderly. I did have burnt exhaust valve issues, and I blame myself for not recoring the radiator, I had a relatively new mechanical fuel pump die on me, and that was because I did not pack the pump arm with grease, and I had the two front rims crack at exactly the same time when the car clocked over 200k-- (I assumed the problem was metal fatigue?). Also, I did install my own version of a PVC set up to control noxious fumes in the cabin when the a/c was running with the car stopped... otherwise, these cars were long lived... they were built to last, and "Consumers' Report" would list ALL MODELS ALL YEARS" as recommended used car purchases back in the early days of its publication.
Quote from: James Landi on January 04, 2015, 04:53:25 PM
I mentioned that brand of aftermarket electronic ignition because there have been several threads recently regarding product failures. Nothing conclusive, but some feel that the system cooks itself, if the driver inadvertently leaves the ignition on while listening to the radio, etc...there were several frustrated members who complained about the product.
Good catch James. I just searched on that and looks like on the Breakerless SE site they do say that about the "competitor"
LE:
Auto shut-off feature protects the coil & ignition, and prevents a dead battery should the key be accidentally left in the ON position.
Other:
Battery will drain and coil will be damaged if ignition switch is accidentally left on
Wow great info guys! I read all of your posts and appreciate the info. I will try to pertronix for now, and hopefully it will work out. IF not, I will know where to buy my second set. Btw anyone know how much they cost? There is tons and tons of info on that web pages but nothing about price
I think you have to go to the catalog page, there is a link) to get the price. I did, but do not remember the amount. Want to say $199, but that is nothing more than a wild guess at this point.
http://youtu.be/wjEh6FPqc2w
Chris--- another TERRIFIC video... I think I can speak for your viewers that we'd like to be introduced to the "pair of hands" that belong to the person who is helping you... the steering wheel looks so terrific-- by the way, interesting alternative to traditional painting -- solid 3M vinyl wrap! Worthy of some research. Thank you! James
Nice job Ben. After seeing your video I think I'll tackle the job of doing my '66 steering wheel. Thanks! Chuck
Quote from: chstitans42 on January 07, 2015, 01:55:29 PM
http://youtu.be/wjEh6FPqc2w
OUTSTANDING results Ben! Please let me know your method of mind-control you used to get your wife to help LOL! My wife hates this kind of stuff. So glad your steering wheel was in worse shape than mine - I'm looking forward to redoing mine as well.
Nice job Ben, I am in the process of repairing my steering wheel as well. Have you done any work on the dashboard? It looks to be in very good condition.
Quote from: BIGTOM on January 09, 2015, 12:43:08 PM
OUTSTANDING results Ben! Please let me know your method of mind-control you used to get your wife to help LOL! My wife hates this kind of stuff. So glad your steering wheel was in worse shape than mine - I'm looking forward to redoing mine as well.
My wheel was pretty much as bad as they could get before huge chunks are missing and then there is nothing you can do.
Quote from: 56 Eldorado on January 09, 2015, 09:44:55 PM
Nice job Ben, I am in the process of repairing my steering wheel as well. Have you done any work on the dashboard? It looks to be in very good condition.
All we have done on the dash is just clean up the leather dash pad, shine the chrome, and buff the paint. Haven't restored much of anything.
You guys are going to like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HA7X8MHh6qs
Terrific--- congratulations, and thank you for memorializing your efforts in these well executed videos.
Hello Ben,
I just watched the video of you and your engine. Given how you feel about the machine shop, are you going to check the engine for clearances, fastener torque, cam/valve timing, etc? You have done a great job so far and I would hate to see your engine be a source of trouble because the machine shop overlooked something that you could double check. You are probably anxious to get the car on the road, but be sure to take your time and double or triple check everything at this critical stage. Good luck!
Christopher Winter
There's nothing like Christmas in January! Looks great Ben! Thanks for the update!
very nice!
I agree with Christopher - take your time to check everything again.
I have been watching your videos since you started posting on you tube, I picked my 55 up a little after you in around the same area, and gotta say it is comforting to see your videos kinda in line with my work, mine needed a lot of work like yours, but I have not done the same engine work you have done, and hope not too.
About the electronic ignition, I purchased the pertronics brand for my cadi because I used on my 66 mustang and worked good, and it has been working great on my cadi as well. It costs around $150.00 for the points, coil, and I did the pertronix wires also, although the wires for my year were a little longer than I think they should be but other than that they are good.
Look forward to your next video.
Jason
Here are some sneak peek pics for you guys!
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FWP_20150206_002_zps8509eed6.jpg&hash=e8e633fcc2de32aa562d536f6bc0db8785838b5c) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/WP_20150206_002_zps8509eed6.jpg.html)
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2FWP_20150207_001_zps83a36bd4.jpg&hash=3ab2aaa94d5ba7a857e1f9cd03b6e0242828b9a2) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/WP_20150207_001_zps83a36bd4.jpg.html)
Perfect! Keep those videos coming...
http://youtu.be/0ols8BXQmdI
LOVE IT!!!
Thanks for sharing all the hard work!
Very nice car to start with. I have completed two body-restorations of 56 coupes and a frame-off of a 56 series 62 convertible. Take your time, don't get in a hurry, keep your pocket book open & enjoy the trip. Larry
Hey guys, I am needing a little information on the dual carb set up I have on my 1956 Cadillac, especially with the dual choke system. As you can see in the picture below, there is a tube that runs from one choke housing to the other.
(https://forums.cadillaclasalle.club/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi170.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu253%2Fchstitans42%2Fduals_zps6c51c5dd.jpg&hash=229016e63605f840e7d5858e21885b84742b69d9) (http://s170.photobucket.com/user/chstitans42/media/duals_zps6c51c5dd.jpg.html)
That tube is missing from the carbs that I have. What I am wondering is how do the chokes operate? I am used to heated ones, and cannot see on the above pic how those cold possibly get enough heat without the end of the tube connecting to something. Is there a piece missing that connects to the exhaust manifold somewhere? I am assuming that this part is super hard to find, and I should go about figuring out a way to fab up one of my own. Any help would be appreciated!
On the single carb set up, what appears to be missing is a tube that runs into the intake manifold... that manifold has one channel that transfers exhaust gases under the carb and also through the tube and up to the bi-metal choke springs... internally, there's a vacuum orifice in the choke pod that is open during cold starts and pulls the warm air up from the intake manifold, that actuating the bimetal spring to open the butterfly and close the internal vacuum port. (I THINK THIS IS CORRECT-- check to see if there is a 3/8 port opening in the intake manifold.)
http://youtu.be/UiX3GNF2MGA
The symphonic sound of a perfectly running Cadillac engine--- thank you... so beautiful!
wow! Very good. Congratulations! 8)
Thanks Ben! This is awesome!!!
This is a really cool post. All the videos have been great. I'm a few weeks behind you on the rebuild of my 58's engine. I hope it runs as nice as yours sounded in the last video on here.
It's been awhile since I first read your posts. Sorry to learn about the engine. I would not replace any valve seats unless they are worn. You probably do need new valve guides though. I have rebuilt several of these 365 engines. I always used the original valves & seats with no problems. I use Marvel Mystery Oil in the gasoline per directions on the bottle. No smoke out the back either. I also drive my cars hard, they must do over 100 mph or I fix them and I always drive 75+ mph on the interstate. I urge you to consider not replacing the seats if they are not worn out. Good luck, you have a nice care. Larry
The transmission oil cooler under my transmission is leaking coolant. Any one know of where I can get another?
http://youtu.be/hPit4zS2poc
Congrats! Sounds like you are low on transmission fluid. My '65 made sounds and didn't shift well when I finally got it on the road last spring, as it was low a quart. All was OK after that :) Chuck
Quote from: Chaz Swansen on March 16, 2015, 09:32:49 PM
Congrats! Sounds like you are low on transmission fluid. My '65 made sounds and didn't shift well when I finally got it on the road last spring, as it was low a quart. All was OK after that :) Chuck
Does being low one quart really make all that difference?
Mine did. I should say that the quart just brought it to show on dipstick and a quick test up and down my 1/4 mile long driveway confirmed shifted much better, so I may be 2 quarts+ low...Had no more trans fluid on shelf when putting in storage before the snow here in NY ;) Car was sitting for a couple years, so I may have a slow leak-pan gasket.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wa3o9IDKjQ0
Having issues getting the intake manifold to seal. Already tried new gaskets and rtv and still leaks on the #1,3, and 4 cylinders. I spray carb cleaner on the bottom edge of the intake and the rpm goes up every time. Any tips or trick to help out?
Perhaps the intake manifold is distorted... I recall decades ago a mechanic double gasketing an intake... Tranny whine sounds like the pump might be cavitating for lack of oil. Are you certain you have enough oil in there??
Hey Ben,
I have a couple of these cars and listening to your videos, perhaps what you are hearing is not your transmission at all but rather the power steering pump or gear. Even though your steering appears perfect, that pump or steering gear may make that sort of sound. As I have replaced several of the steering gears on my cars, when filling them back up after the install, your noises sound very familiar to me. Check your power steering fluid level and even run the car with the lid off and observe if the fluid circulation is frothy. Just something else to consider as your trans appears to shift fine and hopefully a less costly fix!
Chuck
Hello Ben,
When blocks are decked and or heads are resurfaced, the relationship between the intake manifold and cylinder head mounting surfaces is slightly altered. Most of the time this is not a problem as the intake manifold gasket accommodates the change. In some cases, depending on how much material was removed in the decking and resurfacing operations, the manifold gasket will not be able to compensate. James' post on the double gasket is one way the problem might be solved. Keep in mind that even with multiple gaskets, the manifold may still distort when the bolts are torqued. The best way to resolve this issue (if it is the issue) is to machine the mating surface of the intake manifold. A really competent machine shop is needed for this operation.
Did you have your block decked and your heads resurfaced? Do you know how much material was removed from each? The double gasket solution is relatively inexpensive, so I would try that first. Be sure to follow the correct bolt tightening sequence for the manifold, but you may want to to experiment with torque settings less than the full value specified, and maybe differnt values on differnt bolts. Check for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner as you go. Do you have a vacuum gauge that you can connect to help monitor your progress? Another option is to try another manifold. Hang in there.
Christopher Winter
An old timer I spoke with said it sounds like either the pump or bands are shot.
Best you can do is change the screen, get a rabbit's foot keychain and hope for the best. ;D
Might live for a while but chances are you're looking at a trans rebuild sooner or later...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OBZmF6Mlu0
Also another question, the these heads supposed to have studs in them that stick up into the intake (like my passenger side head) or supposed to have bolts that go into them (like my driver's side head)?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCmbdYSH_tc
Hello Ben,
Rock Auto lists a Fel Pro intake manifold gasket set for the 365 engine, for about $11, See here: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?ck[ID]=0&ck[idlist]=0&ck[viewcurrency]=USD&ck[PHP_SESSION_ID]=b7dp4tgehbn85s3lp4vtqe8gb7
You could also buy gasket material (NAPA, Advance) in sheets as an inexpensive way to experiment with multiple gasket thicknesses. Measure the gaskets and material thickness with a micrometer so you know what effect your experiments have.
Of course all this work assumes that you are fairly confident that you have a vacuum leak at the manifold (as demonstrated by an increase in RPMs when carb cleaner is sprayed at the joint between the manifold and the cylinder head). Good luck.
Christopher Winter
On problem with those $11 gaskets is they are made of super thin sheet metal. These are the ones I started out with in the beginning of the first intake video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG49Yldu3do
Ben,
Welcome back stranger…! :)
Well you are not seeing a gremlin on your starting test..! You have to remember the solenoid once is energized it will do two things one it will crank the starter and two it will also place a +12V to the coil.
So what you are seeing on your test is normal, the solenoid is placing the +12V on the yellow wire at the coil, which is directly tied to the + side of the coil. There is no need to insert the key on the ignition switch for the test unless you want to use the remote switch to start the engine when the ignition key is place on the “on†position.
Good luck..!
Thanks Ben,
Hope this can be fixed w/o pulling the engine. We appreciate your video series which comes off in a very informative professional way.
So you have spark, the question now is it timed right? If it is then it is a fuel problem. To test if it is a fuel problem spray a little starting fluid in the intake. If it fires up for a couple of seconds it is fuel.
Ben -- there is NOTHING WRONG with your ignition switch or wiring. As was explained above, when the starter motor cranks, the crank mode delivers 12 volts directly to the coil. By using the remote button, you are causing the coil to fire. Regarding your taking all of the parts off of the motor "...so I can see something," that is not a good idea. Your best bet is to get the engine going again.... then use the method you used last time to see if the two gaskets approached fixed your issue. If it did, then you're good to go James
Alright guys, a small update on the caddy. So I have decided that I am tired of NOT driving this car. I have spent the last few months or so fighting the intake vacuum leak, and trying to get these dual carbs to work correctly. Even with dual thick intake gaskets I still have a vacuum leak when I spray carb cleaner on the bottom of the intake. Cylinder one is 100% dead. I have decided to take off the 2x4 carbs, intake and air cleaner, and go with something more modern and simple. The main issue is that the 2x4 carb setup is very temper mental; it has no traditional idle screw, but has an idle air screw, and then two fuel mixture screws. You set the idle by adjusting these three screws on both carbs. I’m sure that some of you will say I shouldn’t go this route, because the car will no longer be original. I’m at the point not I’d rather have it set up like this and drive it, then wait around till someone can come over that knows how to tune them.
Anyways, with that being said, I am in need of a few parts:
• Single carburetor intake for a 1956 Cadillac 365 motor, preferably not cracked or warped.
• Linkages and rods for that same carb setup.
• Single Carb Cadillac correct air cleaner.
For the carb itself, I am planning on running a rebuilt Edelbrock or Carter AFB carb on that intake, or possibly my friend’s Carter WCFB. The only hang up that I can see along the way is getting the carbs to also run the transmission TV rod that comes off that linkage. Any helps or tips would be appreciated.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_BWDwFoQH-g
Great to aee you behind the wheel ... shot from the back seat and view from the windshield was a trip back in time for me. I owned a 56 short deck model "62" with roof vent a/c from 1966 through 1977-- toward the end of my time with it, I drove 18000 miles a year commuting from the Jersey shore to Princeton.... only let me down once, when the steel rims fractured on the edges from flex. Had the engine rebuilt once, but tranny was always perfect... (water pumps, generators, and radiator, and heat cores on the kick panels were major repairs)--- Great road cars!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xz5rhSlAQZw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kxb-u9laxN8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-xz1y4pFao
Ben, If I heard you correctly you are thinking the whine is caused by the planetary gears. I don’t believe the gears are the cause of the whine. I think the clutch plates are slipping. The fact that there is a lot of black dust in the bottom of the pan backs that up. For some reason one of the clutches is not engaging fully or not disengaging properly.
Have you talked to the people at FATSCO? http://www.fatsco.com/index.htm (http://www.fatsco.com/index.htm)
If it was me I would start by pulling the valve body and check the valves to be sure they are installed correctly and are all free in the bores. Also check for the check balls and that the valve body gasket is good. No breaks that can make cross connections in the passage ways or block passages.
Call FATSCO first if you have not already.
Glen,
This is why I think it is the planetary gears:
http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=138480.0
Let me know what you think.
Ben,
Yes I have followed that thread, but I still don’t think it is a gear problem. If I am not mistaken (it has been a long time since I had my tranny open) those gears have diagonal cut teeth which makes them very quiet. If they are worn so much that they make noise, why did they not make noise before the overhaul? Did the shop wear them out or put worn out gears in there? I don’t think those are real possibilities.
Why would worn gears produce so much black stuff in the pan? That black stuff came from a clutch or band which is rubbing; more like grinding on something. Those are controlled by valves and oil pressure.
If it is not the valves or oil pressure, then count the number of clutch plates and compare to the count needed for that tranny as stated in the shop manual.
Even if it is the gears you should look at the easy stuff to get to like the valve body first before pulling the tranny out.
You obviously have good mechanical skills and you can overhaul that tranny yourself with the shop manual. I reiterate, call FATSCO and talk to them. See what they say.
As a side note; back in the day both my parents 56 Coupe Devilles, my 61 Coupe Deville and a friend’s 58 Cadillac all had the same problem (not the same as yours) which was the front torus member failure. The failure was caused by the spacers between the two halves wearing down and the fins collided destroying them. I overhauled my tranny and it worked very well. That is until I hit a rock in the road and wiped out the pan and valve body. I bought another tranny from the junk yard and overhauled that (it also had the destroyed tours) and it worked well until the car was too rusted out to drive any more.
The thing is, I have no idea if they made noise before the over haul seeing I never drove the car, just had it idling. Strange part about it all, is that sometimes (like yesterday) I will drive it and zero noise. The second I go uphill with it, the noise comes back
https://www.instagram.com/p/_kJ8fDvZt7/?taken-by=thecorvetteben
https://www.instagram.com/p/_nPytRvZtA/?taken-by=thecorvetteben
Quote from: chstitans42 on December 20, 2015, 11:08:37 AM
The thing is, I have no idea if they made noise before the over haul seeing I never drove the car, just had it idling. Strange part about it all, is that sometimes (like yesterday) I will drive it and zero noise. The second I go uphill with it, the noise comes back
I thought you had driven the car before you removed the tranny.
My advice remains the same but I do have a question. In your resto video 42 you said you have 3 or 4 miles on the car. Was the pan clean before that? If it was clean before, you are wearing out your clutch plates or maybe a band very fast. Gears won’t make that much dust in the pan. Gears would make metal flakes.
My guess is that one of the clutches is not releasing all the way. It releases just enough to allow it to slip but it still have enough pressure to cause the whine.
New video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aE9Y96ojFsw
The fuel gauge in my 42 doesn't work either. Not sure if it's the same setup but this information will come in handy. I think a lot of people would simply search for a functioning gauge and replace it. I applaud you for taking the time to figure out the issue and repairing it.
I will be referencing this video when I arrive at repairing my gauge.
Thank You Ben,
I have the same problem on my 55. The sending unit works well. I did not yet checked the wiring between gauge and sender, but I assume I have the same grounding issue. I will check my spare gauge first to see if it has also this issue and then work on the one in the car.
As I am in the same process of getting my car on the roads here in Germany I followed closely all your posts on youtube. Great work!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ubcYzwPvd3s
I need a power window switch for one of my rear doors. Anyone have one to sell?
Cadillac Tim sells reconditioned switches.
http://cadillactim.com
Have you determined if it's the motor or the switch?
Yep 110%. Switch melted and is floppy inside.
New video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exbnVUDT1_E
Hey Ben, I watched the latest video on the radio vibrator and antenna. I just found an antenna from a very kind forum member and had it put in my 56 last Friday. The 56 antenna is a "Hens Tooth". It's up at a re-builder's now (3 hours away in NY) getting a full "SPA" treatment (Engine, SS exhaust, Suspension....). I did a Vibrator back in 78 on mine. I have had the car since 1975. I was 16 then and drove it through high school and college. I wrenched it every weekend and like you did a partial restoration in 81. It sat in my garage while I raised 2 kids. Now that I'm 56, I have a little money to have some things done for me. It's been a lifelong passion for me and its part of my family. I have been watching the videos since 2013, keep up the great work! Wayne
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R7CU7-bwIp8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yYtEHW_rHxU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gRasr8t7LY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5zLG81mmh8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1pksV16mtY
Ben,
For the rear speaker check the “dark green†wire at the amplifier (under the dash right-passenger side) it should be connected on top of the transformer via a skinny barrel connector. Also, the speaker grill would need to be grounded to the chassis.
One note DO NO through anything on the trash specially the speaker it can be refurbished if the coil still intact. ;)
Good luck..!
Thanks for the heads up! I still have to trouble shoot the wire and make sure it has continuity all the way to the raido. Sure is a long way to go!
Just in case you are still working on this.... Here is a pic of the connector mentioned by J. Gomez. Mine still had the male end barrel stuck in it! It only sends the "+" to the speaker through the wire. The "-" needs a jumper wire at the speaker terminal to the chassis. Make sure you adjust the fader located on the outer ring of the right radio knob.
I recently bought a pair of speakers from a guy that reproduces the original basket speakers. They allow you to fit the front speaker up with the amplifier board (see my post on the dashboard rebuild). Most modern speakers have magnets that are too big. The replacement speakers are pretty ratty sounding but no need for high fidelity using the AM radio. If you are using this as a daily driver, you can retrofit a modern 6X9 in both places. You will need to stand off the amplifier board if you want to keep the AM radio functional using the bigger better modern front speaker. The rear has plenty of magnet room.
LOL: I put Jensen coaxial speakers in it back in the late seventies! I had it hooked up to my 8 track player in the glove box! I also had a Pioneer Supertuner on a slide mount. I could slide it out and put my CB radio in. Now there's the 70's for you! Mag mount CB antenna on the truck lid! I just took all that stuff out last fall...
That speaker base has to be grounded.
https://youtu.be/VGIlnB__xjU
Ben,
The wiper lines from the pump looks to be correct, just in case you can reference this site -> http://www.wiperman.com/washservpage.html
When you press the wiper bottom to operate the pump to spray washer fluid the pump would route vacuum over to the coupler to operate the wiper motor in the low settings. The vacuum would pull the coupler and will hold it closed until you release the push bottom.
If the coupler does not operate when vacuum in apply the rubber membrane inside may be bad, you can make one from any piece of rubber. If you want cheap you could use a bicycle inner tube for the material. ;)
Good luck..!
Hello Ben,
all lines are hooked up well. The coordinator looks a bit different on my 55. Have you disassembled the pump in your glass bowl? There is a piston which has two seals. One on the water side and one on the vacuum side. My piston has a crack. I have not managed to seal it. When I find time I want to find someone 3D print a new one for me. If you hear a vacuum leak at your button on the dash you need to fix the seal in your button.
Axel
Fixed the seal in the coordinator, but now all I get is a little dribble out of one of the squirters. Like there isn't enough pressure...
There is multiple things that can go wrong. First check if the water outlet from the washer jar pumps more water. If not, Fusick is selling a rebuild kit for the pump.
If you get enough pressure from your pump check if you do not loose water where the water line passes through the firewall. In my 55 I have a tube there, which connects the water lines from engine bay and under the dash.
You can check out this info. http://www.cadillac1956.eu/trico.html
But you should know this website anyway...
Axel
Quote from: chstitans42 on May 17, 2017, 01:57:50 PM
Fixed the seal in the coordinator, but now all I get is a little dribble out of one of the squirters. Like there isn't enough pressure...
Ben,
If the small sprayer tip on the wiper escutcheon is not block and/or the hose for the water line at the transmission inside is also not block there could be a restriction at the escutcheon seal.
There is a small rubber seal at the escutcheon sealing the transition from the water line between the transmission and the escutcheon. Most of the time these get hard and if the transmission and/or escutcheon are removed and not place correctly it could block the water and worst leak inside the cabin.
Also the inside of the escutcheon could get clog with calcium deposit so that is another possibility.
Good luck..!
I recently replace the escutcheons on my 56 with some really nice reproductions. They did not include the O ring seals. I have not finished putting the washer circuit together yet to try it. Anyone know of a source for them other than getting an assortment pack of O rings from Advanced Auto Parts?
Quote from: stzomah on May 24, 2017, 08:59:58 AM
I recently replace the escutcheons on my 56 with some really nice reproductions. They did not include the O ring seals. I have not finished putting the washer circuit together yet to try it. Anyone know of a source for them other than getting an assortment pack of O rings from Advanced Auto Parts?
Wayne,
I do not know if those are been reproduced, I checked the regular rubber/weather-stripping suppliers and could not find them back then. Have you checked the same supplier that sold you the reproduce escutcheons?
I had to use a small piece about 1/8†of the rubber hose smaller ID that would fit in the washer fluid pipe at the wiper transmission and shape it a bit to fit in the concave place at the escutcheon. From memory I believe I’ve used the same hose as the one for the going from the washer pump over to the control knob.
Good luck..!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiX8UZdWM2Y&t=25s
Quote from: chstitans42 on June 13, 2017, 06:41:38 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YiX8UZdWM2Y&t=25s
Ben,
After taking a look at your video the pump seems to be working fine it only provides a small burst of fluid which is held inside the pump reservoir. It is too lengthy to explain the pump function in words. ;)
Again if you do not see fluid squirting from the nozzles you need to do more surgery inside the escutcheon as I stated above. The rubber seal maybe bad and/or nuzzles could be plug.
If you have an electric washer pump handy you can use it for testing the lines/nuzzles. If one is not available I’ve used a cheap trick, using a bottle of drinking water drill a hole on the cap, smaller than the rubber hose diameter so the hose can seal the hole. Fill the bottle and insert the hose in the hole and squeezed the bottle to force water out. Bingo..!
Good luck..!
Great idea Jose! When are you coming to look at my parts car?
Quote from: chstitans42 on June 14, 2017, 09:07:11 PM
Great idea Jose! When are you coming to look at my parts car?
Ben,
I'll ping you via a PM to set something up most likely in the weekends.
Thanks,
https://youtu.be/uEH4KL6dpAE
Quote from: chstitans42 on September 27, 2013, 12:10:11 AM
Im sure some of you saw my post, asking what this car was worth. I now have it home, and am ready to start bringing it back to life, hence the resurrection thread. Usually these threads are full of pictures, but I will be trying to make videos of all of the progress. With that said, Check out the first video:
http://youtu.be/m1jAdE6V7Ag
I wish the player would come up when the url is added, because it looks a little better. Let me know what you think!
Ben
I too had to take the fenders off of the Uhaul trailer to fit the car lol. What did you tell them you were towing?
My bad, just saw date of the OP. New here, still learning. Looks good, just saw the last video.
Ha, just don't tell uhaul!
Been a while since I updated, BUT there are now FIVE more videos to watch!!
https://youtu.be/w-GvOjZUv5Q
https://youtu.be/NNJEgwFb6xI
https://youtu.be/HzxoX7aTbP8
https://youtu.be/h3z09mxX7wk
https://youtu.be/KlAkEz9v42I
As always, great videos. Thanks for taking and posting them. Clay/Lexi