Removing my postings. Sorry.
A job well done Joe, congratulations.
Joe: from the original picture I didn't think there was so much to do on your car but sounds like you got a good handle everything - looks like plenty! Just focus on what a great feeling it is going to be when she is done (if there is really a point when a car is 'done').
Could you also put some pictures if possible, it would be a great addition to your story.
Keep on going!
Joe,
Good idea to also keep a modern coil, probably get even a brand new one if you can. My suggestion that it is probably even better if you do it the other way around, use the new one when you drive your car around and keep the old for shows. New coils give you better performance, better fuel efficiency and more reliability and you can show off with the old one on car shows. I am also planning to do it that way as it takes some of the worries off your mind when you're on the road but you can still get the looks on shows.
I am not sure about the 1938 model but I know that prewar Cadillacs had a flexible spring like wire wrapped around the wire from the lock to the coil acting as a conduit to prevent hot wiring.
Hopefully someone will be expanding on this as I am not sure which years were so equipped and most of these cars have had modern coils attached.
I have a couple of the old style coils but have not tested them yet to see if they are serviceable but if they are I will get one ready to carry as a spare and in case I ever enter a car in anything more than a local show.
Quote from: Blade on November 10, 2013, 12:53:23 PM
Joe,
Good idea to also keep a modern coil, probably get even a brand new one if you can. My suggestion that it is probably even better if you do it the other way around, use the new one when you drive your car around and keep the old for shows. New coils give you better performance, better fuel efficiency and more reliability and you can show off with the old one on car shows. I am also planning to do it that way as it takes some of the worries off your mind when you're on the road but you can still get the looks on shows.
I don't trust old ignition coils due to their poor isolation between primary and secondary circuits. I took the original out, opened the lid and removed all the old internals. Then I mounted a new coil on the inside of the firewall at same height as the original.
Then from there, a long ignition wire to go through the armoured cable hole, through the original coil and out of the normal hole. With the rubber boot on, no one, will ever know where the spark came from.
Joe: This picture you posted earlier of the coil mounted on the firewall of your 38 appears to me to be a negative ground coil used in 46-47. Looks like it could have a number stamped on the side of the coil. If that number is 1115401,1115129 or 1115351 and has a minus sign on the top of the coil, next to the stud for the wire from the coil to the distributor, then you have the wrong polarity coil. 1938 is positive ground and uses 1115128 coil. Bill
It's looks exactly like the coil in my 39, positive earth.
Coming along Joe, coming along. Keep going, it will get there!
My suggestion don't paint over old primer, just strip everything down to bare metal, reprime and paint. More often than not the new paint will desolve any old primer/paint and you have to start all over.
Just killing time, saw your post and read the whole darn thing.
One word... Stellar.
Quote from: James Gray on January 03, 2014, 04:58:53 PM
Just killing time, saw your post and read the whole darn thing.
One word... Stellar.
I second that 8)
Holly pumpkin, that's a lot of 'stuff' on your transmission Joe! I too find the wire brush and steel whool a few of my favorite friends.
This red colour looks like the paint I keep comming across while taking it appart. It really puzzles me for it should be trim 60, Trinidad Grey, but no grey anywhere. What's the name of this red?
Well mine is not glossy and darker like the upper left. Could it be some sort of protective under coating? Anyway is your car ready for paint ?
Holy cow! It's like new vs. old comparing the 2 rods.
Nice job!
Looking good. Looking forward to see them painted.
Joe, nice color selection I too was thinking about something very similar for my sedan. Nice to see how you're progressing with yours, soon as you're done painting please post some photos.
Love the shape of these old Caddy's. Yours is coming along nicely.
Hey Joe,
Take a close look at your passenger side rear fender. Right in the center just after the bend downward. In the picture, it looks like there may be a smudge like someone touched it after primer, while still moist. Likely just the photo but just in case, check it out.
Love the front clip on this car. It has more style that and car I've ever seen.
Now the fun begins ;D
If you ever bring that baby or the others to Sunny Southern California (San Diego), look us up. We've got plenty of room for guests and their toys.
Beautiful. Always welcome.
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 05, 2014, 12:53:33 PM
Thanks James! :)
Today it is a huge snow blizzard day. I am casting my motor mounts!
How do you do that? I need a pair too.
OK very interesting. Thanks 8)
That's pretty cool. I consider myself a pretty handy person and am resiliant and figuring out how to do things. But I would have never thought to make my own mounts and be this accurate.
Koudo's to you Joe!
What a fabulous write up! As I read along, it was almost like going through some of this myself. I too have a big project but have decided to try fixing it up for a bit rather than try such a complete overhaul. You mentioned at some point that your hood was undercoated. What did you do to remove this? My own Caddie hood is also well coated and is far too heavy for the springs to hold up.
Vintage Paul
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 12, 2014, 09:04:54 PM
I left it undercoated. After some research, and discussion with friends, it appears that Cadillac used various springs on the same year cars!! I found some springs that are a little bigger for $22.00. Problem solved. I think the undercoating helps reduce the already quiet car even more so.
That's interesting! what were the springs you found? I would like to get a set of them as well.
You have certainly made wonderful progress with your project. I have had my Caddie for nearly 20 years and things just poke along. It has a high priority right now but that may change as other projects get shuffled. The last two years a 1923 Model T has been the active project and everything else has been sitting. That project got stalled last Fall and the Caddie slid in. Happily, the Caddie is close to being tour ready. A bit more electrical work and we'll be off to the races.
Vintage Paul
Thanks Joe, I will be curious to find out what works with the extra heavy hood. Right now I'm using a piece of plastic pipe cut to size as a hood prop rod. It came with the car when I bought it back in 1996.
I will post some pics but think it probably makes sense to post them in my own section of this forum. I'll try to do this a little later today.
Vintage Paul
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 14, 2014, 01:58:31 PM
Getting very close to dropping the engine back in. I wish my grommets would hurry up and arrive. Do I have the coil bracket upside-down?! I think so.
Wow your car is really red :D
It's same direction as mine. But what is this tag to the left? What does it say?
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 14, 2014, 02:27:32 PM
It's the body tag, shows the year, trim and paint codes and the body number. Yours must have one?!? Maybe yours is painted as that's how they were when new, but it's aluminum and the paint won't stick and in short order starts flaking off. I decided to get a head start on the flaking by not painting it in the first place. If authenticity becomes an issue later it can be painted, but not this red. hahah
The camera makes the red look a bit orange. It is actually more toward a darker red with a hint of brown or maroon.
Sorry I edited my question, it was the left one and bracket is same as mine, but it could be upside down too.
Looks cool. I wonder if it's suppose to be on a 39. Authenticity has no mention of it. Keep it if it's original 8)
I just checked my Authenticity manual and the coil bracket is correct
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 14, 2014, 01:58:31 PMDo I have the coil bracket upside-down?! I think so.
I don't have the '38 Authenticity Manual, but the one that covers the '39 & '40 60S shows the bracket installed like you have it. The photos show the bracket being painted black.
Vintage Paul
Assembly is my favorite part of a project. What a job to do by yourself!
Your mounts look great, no bulge at all with the weight on them. Do you think they will be soft enough to deaden vibration? I see you wrapped your exhaust pipe. What did you use to do this? There are several products I have seen but some are pretty hard to install neatly. Restoration Supply offers one wrap that has an adhesive to help hold it in place until you can get it clamped. How much material did you end up using?
Vintage Paul
I am reading this thread and it is making it very difficult not to do a full restore on my 42. But I keep telling myself, it's only original once. But it would be so awesome, all shiney new. Original. New Original! New! ORIGINAL!!! NEW!!!
DAMN!!!
Looking Good Joe!
Quote from: James Gray on February 18, 2014, 11:38:17 AM
I am reading this thread and it is making it very difficult not to do a full restore on my 42. But I keep telling myself, it's only original once. But it would be so awesome, all shiney new. Original. New Original! New! ORIGINAL!!! NEW!!!
DAMN!!!
Looking Good Joe!
I sure understand your dilemma but I would side on the original side with your car. We all
need cars like yours to show us how Cadillac
really did it. There are very few cars left that can do this . . .
Vintage Paul
Absolutely, I'll keep her original for quite a spell. I've had the good fortune to share information for the authenticity manual and will do more in the near future.
I was just having fun. Besid3s, I have a Mustang killing Barley Davidson F 10 with a super sharper to keep shiney.
Wow, you got a lot done in one day! That would have been a week's work for me. It is sure looking good so far. I see you have a dry aircleaner element in place of the oil bath. How is that working for you? What element are you using?
Vintage Paul, still takin an oil bath . . .
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 18, 2014, 04:49:54 PM
It's a Fram 148. It works great, I am not keen on the look but I had oil sucked into the metal mesh filter element twice and really REALLY don't like it when that happens. I think I am going to get some black filter cloth and make a sleeve for the filter so it isn't so noticeable. That can wait.
What happened with the oil sucking into the mesh? The only thing I have ever heard bad about oil bath cleaners is that they restrict air flow, not a huge concern on a vintage car.
Vintage Paul
Congrats Joe. It sure does feel good when all goes according to plan. Harry
Joe: If you want to get away from the distracting color of the Fram CA 148 air filter then consider getting a NAPA Gold 2055 which is black and does not stand out like the orange of the Fram CA148. Pictures of both below. Bill
Looks good. Couldn't you just run a garden hose from the water tap? Sounds like oil hasn't reached the valve tappets yet.
Jack Pot!!! Gotta love it when a plan comes together. Can't wait to get a ride in her.
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on February 23, 2014, 01:44:13 PM
I pumped a quart and a half of oil into the lines running to the top end. It filled the lifters nicely and it's running nice and quiet now.
That is great news! You are making such rapid forward progress that any delay is most unwelcomed. Then again, I feel the same way about my own project which has been anything but rapid . . .
Vintage Paul
Man, you know your stuff.
Ty Stinson
I used a kit like that some years ago to simulate the grey cad plating used on an old Norton motorcycle. It worked surprisingly well. I never thought of buffing it down, how did you do that?
Vintage Paul, more Bondo on the steering wheel today . . .
Wow! It is coming along very nicely.
I watched the engine start up too. It prompted me to send you a message with a question about adjusting the carb.
And the plating?! You sir, are a very ingenuitive person.
The results look pretty good from the picture you showed. For the sake of (foolish?) consistency of appearance and future structural integrity, possibly it might be worth doing all of the fins with the reinforcement? That way only the dedicated 1938 observer would know something was amiss.
The 1939 models had trouble too. Both of the top pieces on my car have been welded back together. One side has a bow in it that make the grill look a bit wonky from certain angles.
Vintage Paul
I had no idea that the '38 grill was an assembly. How does this make things tougher for the restorer?
The '39 grill is all one piece, great for construction but hell to restore. The fins are just too close together to make repair easy.
Vintage Paul
[quote
Cadillac learned their lesson and switched to a grille that wasn't 100 separate pieces.
[/quote]
I don't know about them learning anything when you consider the large series had a die cast one piece grill. The 36 grill was when they should have learnt, that was lots of separate pieces, they went to one piece in 37 for all series then took a step back with the grill like you have just on the 60 and 60S for 38?? what was that about? and to make matters worse my 60 series grill is actually different than your 60S. One extra bar for the 60 series?? go figure.
Looking good Joe. I wish mine was at this stage. :o
You should be. Restoring a pre-war is not that easy, and a headache to get parts except if you own a Chevy or Ford.
It must have been fun just to get the old girl back on the road after so much work. Your progress has really been astounding. I'm into the 4rth week on the steering wheel project right now with another three weeks to go if all goes smoothly.
How did the motor run? With the oiling issues and used coil you had one or two items to watch. Was all sooth sailing?
Vintage Paul
Would this have cleared up with some sort of high detergent additive? I have used things like Rislone & Marvel Mystery Oil in the past with dirty engines.
Vintage Paul
Joe, I am not usually a fan of red, but that car is gorgeous. I would even consider driving without the hood just to show off the Flathead. Great Job, Hope to read more.
S. Hay
Quote from: Smedly on March 23, 2014, 08:31:20 AM
Joe, I am not usually a fan of red, but that car is gorgeous. I would even consider driving without the hood just to show off the Flathead. Great Job, Hope to read more.
S. Hay
Yes Joe's red looks great.
Some years ago I attended a rally, mostly 60's cars, with the side covers off. Two guys stared into my engine and the burst "wow, look at the size of the heads, it's a HEMI" :P
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on April 07, 2014, 11:45:58 AM
For anyone working on restoring one of these engines. The timing is critical for easy starts. The plug wires are critical for easy starts. The grounds are critical for easy starts. The point gap is the same. If all these things are not correct then starting will be difficult, especially when the engine is hot. Even more so when the engine has been rebuilt and is tight.
When they are all within the specifications laid out by the original engineers, starting is VERY easy. Hot or not.
True. So was mine even with worn pistons. And idle was revving ridiculous low. Wonderful engine ;)
Working on the rear brake cylinders today.
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on April 07, 2014, 11:41:44 AM
The last few days the car has been harder and harder to start and then it started missing more and more. I think it must be the plug wires. I do have copper core wires on there but from all the work the wires have been on and off many times. Some of the time the clips for the distributor would get pulled off... I theorized that soldering the clips on would ensure a good connection.
Soldered all the clips on. SUCCESS!!! It is now back to starting on less than a full crank. It starts much easier than my modern car.
Did you check the wires & clips with a meter? Were they OK when you installed them but worked loose later?
I made a set for my car a couple of months ago and checked them all for low resistance. I didn't think to solder the ends going to the distributor.
Vintage Paul
Your car is very striking in its bright red paint. I hope it drives as well as it looks!
Vintage Paul
I didn't bother checking the wires with a meter. I had them off and on a bunch of times while working on various things. The behaviour was clearly due to bad plug wires. Soldering fixed it right off.
I think it actually runs better than it looks. The paint job is not done. I knew I was going to scratch it all over the place while reassembling everything. If the paint was in it's final state I would have been upset to get the little scratches I got.
I have some more work to do on the brakes and then I will pull a bunch of chrome off the car, block sand, paint, block sand, paint, block sand, paint.. until I am happy and then the chrome will go back on.
Also have to change the manifold gaskets and then do the exhaust. The gaskets are new but the manifolds were off the car 3 times this spring.
I feel I should add, I am having a great time working on and learning about this machine. I feel it's an honour to have the opportunity. I can't imagine just farming everything out to others. For me, part of the enjoyment is knowing how EVERY last little part goes together and works.
I couldn't agree more, Joe. I have been making very slow progress as a result of other responsibilities but every time I do the littlest thing, I learn quite a bit.
I was away for a while working on other projects. Wow Joe ... you did a FANTASTIC job on that car! Turned out to be gorgous!
Thanks for posting pictures and info as you were progressing I think a lot of us can learn many things from your experiences.
Hope to see you and your car on a meeting one day!
I've been driving quite a bit. It's been working flawlessly for the most part. Restoration will slow to a crawl during the summer. I am going to hide a stereo deck in the glove box and do some more work on the brakes but that's mostly it for the summer.
Next winter will be a pile more work.
Joe,are you going to the Fleetwood Country Cruise, in London,it is a must see show for Caddy fans,been there a couple of times myself and enjoyed it greatly,cant make it this year but is on the list. Harvey
Hi Joe. Your hub cap emblems look great. How did you do them to make them look that good ? Is the paint sprayed on or brushed ? Is there a clear coat on after you painted ? If brushed on paint, did you thin so paint would flow better and how many coats did you apply ? Thanks... John Lehman... CLC# 26365...
Hi John. It's a single coat of jewelery fill enamel. The first one I did, I used glass paint and was not very happy with it. The jewelery enamel was perfect as a single coat. No top coat on it. I want to leave the brass exposed so I can polish it when needed.
Thanks!
Today I went to a u-pick-it scrap yard and pulled two hood hinge springs from a 1986 Fleetwood. The dimensions and appearance of the two springs are identical to two new repops for a 1966 chevelle. The repops would NOT hold the hood up. These two hold it up just fine. When trying to bend either spring the OEM spring is much stiffer. FINALLY I don't have to use a broom handle to prop my hood!
Also, they just barely clear the voltage regulator. They clear by about 1/4 of an inch.
At least my "hood prop/broom handle" was the right colour.
I painted my deck lid emblem today. Also painted my one good bumper plaque. Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.
They look great installed. The plate is stuck on with neodymium magnets. I need to let the enamel cure for 96 hours before I lightly buff and add another coat to make it more opaque. I couldn't find any info on recoat times for this enamel but I know it's safe to allow it to fully cure and then buff and recoat.
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on May 30, 2014, 06:28:10 PM
Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.
Thats identical to whats on my 38 60 series. I think they are the same for both years aren't they?
Not the same on close inspection. It has been stated here that the difference is in the heaviness of the script. 39 is heavier BUT the other difference is in the thickness of the entire plate. I will take some photos showing the difference. The 39 plates are much much heavier.
Front turn signal lights. No drilling.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjVolSBsbmE&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjVolSBsbmE&feature=youtu.be)
Art, it's a complicated solution. I found the 7 volt LED rectangular lights in Cuba. Then I bought, on eBay, some lightbulb bases with wires soldered on. (You could make these yourself from bulbs) Then I wired the two together. Then I bent a piece of clear plastic and used 3M trim tape to stick it inside the reflector. Then I pulled off and capped the wires that are running to the parking lights and connected my turn signal switch lights to the connector block.
I wanted to do the least amount of modifications as possible and still increase the margin of safety. No drilling is a requirement.
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on May 30, 2014, 06:28:10 PM
I painted my deck lid emblem today. Also painted my one good bumper plaque. Yes, I know it's from a 1939 but it is MUCH better than what was on there. I have had enough trouble finding ONE for a 1939 that I don't hold out much hope of finding TWO for a 1938.
Hi,
How did you paint those?
With some model paint? Revell?
Is the color uv-resistent?
I am asking because I still need to paint my wheel covers and emblems.
Regards,
Sven
I used Martha Stewart Jewelry Enamel made by Plaid Industries and available at Micheal's in North America. It takes a long time to cure but self levels and fills the recesses in the pieces very well. They say to apply it with a toothpick but I used a very fine artists brush.
My hood emblem is a different story. I don't know yet what to do about it. The enameling is the correct glass enamel.
The artistry on this car is just amazing.
Coming along nicely, Joe. I had been out of the loop for a while so I had some reading to do. I thinks it's great the ingenuity you put into the car and you methods to keep it as accurate as possible.
Kepp it up!!!
Thanks James. I am working non stop on it. I am looking for a manual throttle arm. I thought I would make one to use until I find one. Here's a shot of the one from the Stromberg AAV-26 and a shot of my first step. Fitting my home made one. Some more fitting and another bend, round the ends off and then some filing, polishing and painting and it should look VERY close to authentic. Gives me some time to find the right one and still continue on with everything else. Easily swapped out later.
IT WORKS! Now to finesse it and make it look like it should.
Thanks Art. I had better start now. While at it I might as well file out a few spares. ;D
More progress on the linkage. This carburetor will eventually be put on the 322 LaSalle engine. The manual throttle control is smooth and very controllable and does not interfere with the foot throttle. Currently reusing the choke cable someone had installed, but it's a bit short. It would be nice to find a correct cable with the adjustable tension screw.
Is the end of the hand throttle cable supported ?
Not at the moment. It will be but I have to make the bracket that clamps it to the cross over bolt. I do have a bracket for there but it is in terrible condition. I will copy it in new steel.
Could you please post a pic of it. I don't have it and want to copy it too. Is it mounted on the manifold bolt?
I will try and do this tomorrow. Before I do I am waiting for a photo from a friend of his. I am not 100% sure if mine is correct and want to be more confident before I post it and end up misrepresenting.
This is the bracket I made based partly on the photo I received, the shabby part I had and what I was capable of with a vice and a file and grinder.
It needs more finessing, a proper nut and bolt, a tab on the back end of the top clamp. A work in progress, but each step of the way it works smoother and smoother. I had a nice tiny clamp for the end of the wire but it wasn't on as tight as it should have been. I pulled the cable to test and it shot off the end like a rocket. I can't find it. It is tiny and also was very difficult for me to get. Damn.
On a happy note, this was a lot easier to make than the bracket I made for the throttle plate.
Hope it didn't end inside the carb ;) So it's mounted horizontally. Interesting. Thanks for the pic
Here is how the throttle control will be for the next while. Waiting to find the right parts. For now I can control the idle as I should be able to.
This engine is coming out. Almost seems a shame to do so much work on it. This car needs the original engine back in though. I need to find a 38 LaSalle without an engine. In Canada. Might be a challenge. :)
Looks good 8)
Nothing exciting. Changed my flex lines for my brakes. Would have been exciting if they had gone in a panic stop.
Received one of my three Duchess manifolds today. The cross over, it looks great!
Changed out the bushings in my panhard bar.
Added some flags to the front end. It's almost Canada Day. Incomplete as it is I am very proud of my car. It's just so beautiful.
Joe there is a lot there to be proud of. your car is a beauty.
P.S. My 46 is also sitting out sporting the Canada flags. I cant think of a better looking flag pole then an old caddy or Lasalle.
Sheldon hay
Smedly, Post a photo!
This evening I installed my Duchess manifolds. They are beautiful! I will take a picture tomorrow in the light.
Joe, will post shortly under discussions.
S. Hay
My new to me Duchess manifolds installed and looking very nice! I have to swap out the LaSalle carb for the Cadillac carb and move the heat stove to the other side where it belongs. For now I just have it strapped on so my choke works.
They look great. No substiture for the real thing. Harry
I made these water slide decals. I couldn't figure out how to fit the one on the oil filler without it looking terrible. I put it on the filler tube because it was already wet and loose from it's stabilizer sheet. Once I figure out how to fit it on the cap I will remove this from the filler tube. Looks good for now even though not correct. I think they have to be made a little bit smaller so they don't extend over the rounded edge so much.
The waterslide decals don't look at all like a vinyl sticker. They are much thinner and look a lot more like they are screen printed or stamp printed directly on the surface. They conform to the texture of the surface. They have a very thin edge profile.
Moved my heat stove over to the correct side for the Duchess manifolds. Added a hard line in for the carburetor bowl overflow at the same time.
I've struggled and successfully dealt with soem generator, voltage regulator issues. I was sick of buying batteries. AGAIN the voltage regulator stuck and this time boiled the battery fry AND fried the windings in my generator. This was the last straw.
I got a generator from a 1938 Farmall tractor and swapped the front and back plates from one of my spares. This generator is rated at 36 amps. Then I bought a Standard Motor Products VR-1 voltage regulator. It looks pretty close and includes a current regulator. So critical to stopping premature battery death. It charges perfectly, starts even better, if that was even possible.
I am reserving the authentic parts in my storage bin. I just can't drive the car with any confidence with the old flawed system.
A CLC meber, Charles Commerford (CLC Member #27048) sold me what was an absolutely perfect ignition coil for an excellent price. It came in the original box with the bracket and the boot. I finally have an application correct 6v positive ground coil for my car. Thanks Chuck!!
I didn't like the crinkle paint on the coil.
All the work you have done is outstanding, its a beautiful car, cant wait to see more of it.
Thank you Russ. I should have put this in here but this is what I have been doing the last four days...
http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=132062.0 (http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=132062.0)
After trying a few things to clean my reflectors I thought I was going to have to have them resilvered.... I was wrong. Never Dull Magic Wadding Polish came to the rescue. They went from very yellow with faint light to much brighter with much whiter light.
Before
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After
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It's slowly coming along. I had rebuilt my starter previously but it still looked terrible.
I pulled it back out, changed the solenoid relay with a NOS one I bought. Then painted it. I painted the band over the brushes and the cap over the relay with fake stainless steel paint. I am currently on the hunt now for some that are less pitted and will change them out with correct colour once I find them.
Just because I felt like it.... thinking about what's going to happen this coming winter.
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I installed my NOS radiator shutters on my car yesterday. They look great but I need to figure out why the thermostat isn't moving them far enough. I do have another thermostat that I think works fine.
With the cover off I noticed that the two plugs on the front of the tank are leaking very slightly. Have to deal with that this winter. The tank is so thin it's a pain to work on but has to be done.
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Getting closer. I made a 3d mockup of the radio cover as one unit. I know it is a base with two grilles and then chrome trim strips. It's a complicated piece. This is step 2. No measurements taken into account. Next I have to model the base and the two grilles with accurate measurements. Then 3d print them to make my moulds.
I have found the original plastic that was used for these covers is still being manufactured. They will be cast out of that.
I'm reliably informed by the expert in these plastic dash pieces Bruce Berghoff that they used a plastic made from soya which was a disaster. He may have been joking but the material was still a disaster. Cadillac stopped using it after one year. Studebaker also failed with it in the late 30s so I wouldn't think you wanted to have it made in that?
The right hand side is not a grill but a complicated ash tray that swivels out. I completely rebuilt mine earlier this year using Bruces parts so let me know if theres any dimensions or pictures you need.
After the search of our suppliers and a discussion with the rep, he ensured me that they have had 75 years to get the chemistry right. Also, I am not sure where the idea is from that it is soy based. The specified material as from the drawings is actually reacted from wood alcohol made from tree cellulose. I suppose it is possible that they made the alcohol from soy material. The failure is not actually from the base alcohol but from the santicizers used or lack thereof.
The plastic is currently used in a HUGE variety of products. Children's toys, screwdrivers, toothbrushes, golfballs, glasses as well as currently being used in manufacturing in the transportation sector. It is likely that every person in the CLC who has a modern car has some in their car.
The real benefit as I see it is that the parts don't need to be painted. The plastic accepts dye very well.
The downside? It won't last as long as cast metal, of course, but it should last longer than my lifetime.
The upside? The cast pieces, if I am careful in my design, and in my pigment matching, will not need any finishing or other significant hand work.
Everything is tentative and subject to change as I move along. I have cast parts before but never this complex. I may be forced to have it injection moulded or I may decide to do it in metal.
Wow, you have made a lot of progress in the nearly one year since I was last on these boards. I'm amazed at the ambition of trying to cast your own dash radio grill parts. I guess that someone did it in the old days so it must be possible somehow. I imagine these parts are unobtainium?
Vintage Paul
They are unobtanium in NOS for but Bruce Berghoff makes them and they are beautiful and much better than the original in material quality. The thing is I LOVE doing this and find it very satisfying figuring out how.
:)
You have taken on some big jobs for a home restorer and made great results with them. I'm about to send Bruce my order (long delayed by finances) and get started on the many missing bits of plastic on my car's interior.
Vintage Paul
Finally it looks like next week it will warm up enough to continue working on my car. This winter has brought some serious challenges to my life that I think I have worked through. I am REALLY looking forward to carrying on.
Some updates.....
I've worked on a lot and as is normal, I have a lot more to do. The pictures tell the story.
I swapped the axle and differential and that works and looks great now. Surprise rain made the paint on the backing plates look patchy but I am ok with that. It's a rust preventative anyhow and not seen.
I put a new master cylinder on. Brakes are great. I have the original now as my spare.
I used some scrap aluminum to make a bracket for my extra switches. I refuse to drill holes. Th elight on the right is for the fuel pump and the left is connected to the brake pressure switch so I know if it either quits working or sticks on. Both bad situations. The brake light on the dash is a standard item in the old cars in Cuba.
I restored the original Cadillac washer assembly I found on eBay. It was listed as a fuel pump. :)
I need to make myself a label. It had remnants of the original Cadillac label. The left side and the top of the crest.
Does anyone have a copy of the documentation that would have been with the washer originally?
Little gains... my fuel line with heat shield. I took off the hacked together rubber fuel line that was on there and was always bugging me.
Just thought I'd leave this here... for those looking to get their vacuum wiper motors working... How the valve mechanism should work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS0eIxflxro (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS0eIxflxro)
Quote from: Joe Ceretti on May 15, 2015, 09:56:01 AM
Just thought I'd leave this here... for those looking to get their vacuum wiper motors working... How the valve mechanism should work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS0eIxflxro (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gS0eIxflxro)
Joe: reminds me of a metronome when I was a kid and took piano lessons ... ;D
Your car looks like getting close to be done, what else you need to do yet? Coming along very nicely, great quality restoration so far! 8)