Has any one used any of their products to stop oil or water leaks?
The information sounds really promising for stopping all kinds of leaks, and I would like to find out if anyone had used the products and their input.
they are on the web
KD CLC#26801
Never a fan of those type of leak stop products in general-they seem like they would clog systems such as radiators for example. I would fix the leak. Not easy, but the best way.
Hello Ken,
A few minutes research has made me skeptical of this product, especially at the price listed on the website (http://www.oilstopleak.com/) for an 8 ounce bottle ($75 for an 8 cylinder engine). When I clicked on the "buy now" button, the next window to open in my browser was titled, ABX International, and the URL was not http://... or https://...
On the Bobistheoilguy website there is a thread regarding a similar product - Automatic Transmission Products (ATP) AT-205 Re-Seal. This product makes the same claims as the PermaTech product, but AT-205 sells for $10 at Summit for an 8 ounce bottle. The chemistry for the AT-205 product, according to a poster on the Bobistheoilguy website, indicates that AT-205 contains a plasticizer (Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether) that reacts with rubber and EPDM seals causing them to swell and thereby stop a leak. Another poster indicated that a call to ATP's tech line revealed that the compund was not compatible with teflon, delrin, and other kinds of plastic seals.
Assuming both PermaTech and AT-205 work by causing rubber and EPDM seals to swell, that does not necessarily mean that any leaks you have are due to bad rubber or EPDM seals. What about cork seals (gaskets)? PermaTech has a product claiming to seal head gaskets - even if they (the cylinder heads) are warped. This product sells for well over $100 (it might be 32 ounces). What chemistry is going to fill the high-pressure, high-temperature gap between an iron block/iron head, iron block/aluminum head, and aluminum block/aluminum head, with head gaskets of different composition? It is entirely possible that these products do no harm to your engine, and little harm to your wallet. Personally, I would want to be convinced of the physics and chemistry of the product before putting it into my car. If your leak is not related to a rubber or EPDM seal problem, the products may not work as intended.
By the way, I love the fact that you have three large vehicles and the Sprite. I recall the Sprite as being one of the most fun vehicles I have ever driven.
Christopher Winter
FWIW:
A CLCer I met a few years ago who owns a '58 Fleetwood 60 told me that when he bought the car back in the early 1980s, it had a terrible transmission leak. So bad in fact, the car left a trail of fluid wherever it was driven. A friend suggested he add a quart of brake fluid to the transmission, which he did figuring he had nothing to lose.
The leak stopped almost immediately and drove the car for a week after which he drained the transmission and refilled with fresh fluid.
"Yup, it barely lasted 28 years," was how the story ended.... 8)
Has anyone used K Seal?
I have a small water leak on the side of my block . I am going to stitch it and I was wondering if I should use something like K Seal for some additional insurance
KD